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Dries quickly for faster overcoating, easy to sand once cured, and provides excellent corrosion control. The Surfacing Primer formula is ideal for faired surfaces. The High Build Primer formula provides superior filling capabilities. Above the waterline, TotalBoat 2-Part Marine Epoxy Primer adheres extremely well to wood, fiberglass, aluminum, and steel. Below the waterline, apply 2-Part Epoxy Primer to underwater metal parts to keep them corrosion-free so they work better and last longer.
Please note: this product is not designed for the prevention and repair of gelcoat blisters and osmotic damage. For a protective, watertight barrier to prevent corrosion on aluminum and steel boats, use TotalBoat Aluminum Boat Barrier Coat epoxy primer under antifouling and other 1- and 2-part paints.
Other 2-part marine epoxy primer systems make you apply the surfacing primer on top of the high build primer so the surface will be smooth enough for topcoats. The clear primer is ideal to use as a tie-coat before applying high-gloss urethane topcoats. The surfacing primer is great for overcoating, color matching, and improving adhesion, while the high-build primer is best for surface defects. Surfacing primer is ideal for faired surfaces that are ready for topcoat. The high-build primer can be used independently and does not need to be overcoated with a surfacing primer, as it can be sanded smooth.
They can be applied both above and below the waterline. Painting is not my particular expertise, so I'm willing to see new ways. The best boat I painted was with a Dulux polyurethane house enamel. I practised and found tools and techniques which worked for me, in that climate with that paint. I used a foam 'Jenny' brush. Worth a try, but different people with different techniques, different paint on a different day may do better with other tools.
SvenH Member. Epifanes has multi marine primer, 1-part air drying that can be painted with 2 pack polyurethane. And it can be used over 1 c systems. SvenH said:. Wait, 2 months? How big was boat? I thought I could do all sanding within 4 full days top, plus few visits during week for filling dents with filler The boat is 18 foot, yes two months aprox from first day of prep to the day I put on the first coat of gloss. I was doing anything from 1 to 4 hours a day for 4 days a week. Some times I would only do an hours filling then leave it.
Next day sand and fill again as required It depends on the state of the hull, this was bad, and the finish you want to achieve. This boat had had 35 years of abuse, gouged, scratched and crazed from stem to stern. From 10 feet away it now looks like new. Besides the obvious sanding. If the paint isn't comparable it'll wrinkle and look a mess. I don't know enough about the pain that's on the boat to advise, however, if you get some 2 pack thinners from the same manufacturer as the paint you intend to use, and dampen a cloth with it then tape it to the paint, if it wrinkles it's incompatible, if it doesn't it's probably OK.
I say probably because the the thinners is highly volatile and will evaporate quickly, the paint will remain in contact much longer before it completely cures and the solvent disappears. This may cause wrinkling after several hours. I'd do this before you start, if the new paint is 2 part comparable then just sand and all is good, if it's not then either use a less demanding paint, or strip the whole lot off, back to something which is compatible. You could use a barrier coat, but that's just adding layers of paint and the paint underneath may flake or be much softer than the 2 pack, which could cause problems in the long term.
I've used 2 pack ever since it was fist introduced, and if it is done properly, it's hard to beat. I have a pair of wooden oars, which I painted with 2 pack International white at least 10 years ago, when I had some leftover from another job. They are on their second inflatable dinghy, and they get used and abused, used as punt poles pushing off from rocky beaches, thrown into and out of the dinghy, the paint is scratched, but otherwise in good condition.
A couple of other observations from years of using the stuff; you need to be careful to get an even cover, apply sparingly, it runs easily, especially if the weather is cool.
Read the instruction, there are minimum and maximum over coating times, which are temperature sensitive, if you leave it too long you'll need to re-key it. After you finished it takes quite a while to reach full hardness.
If you can still smell the solvent, it's not fully cured. Make sure you use the 2 parts in the correct proportion, not a problem if you are mixing full tins but more difficult if 2 Pack Epoxy Paint For Boats Quick you are only doing a small mix. I use a small cheap digital scale and weigh the two parts, I find that easier then trying to judge volumes. I hope this helps.
Cheers Ian. Akestor Active member. They are made for spray application. I successfully did the topsides with an HVLP spray device after I miserably failed trying to roll and then tip. Unless the boat is wooden, painting the top sides with spray gun is the way to go.
I did an epoxy primer and sanded, then applied the first coat, sanded again with before the final application. No sanding between layers will result in orange peel. I practiced spaying on a square foot on the boat, quickly erasing the paint with a cloth and nitro solvent, until I was ready to do the job.
Bearing in mind that for spraying two pack, you need a proper air-fed respirator. A great many 2 Pack Epoxy Paint For Boats 95 boats have been beautifully painted in two pack without spraying. Not by me I hasten to add. My painting is a bit 'launch it before anyone looks too closely' by comparison. Spraying is regarded as the better option, but not always possible. Done properly you can get a very good result with roll and tip, and a lot of manufacturers instructions give you tips on how to do it.
Like everything else the more you do it the better you get. Its like dream came true Where is the catch? KAM Active member. Joined 6 Jun Messages Regarding painting two pack over single pack. When I bought my boat it was already painted.
The original paint turned out to be 2 pack Perfection but the colour had been discontinued and I had assumed it was single pack Toplac. For 10 years I was touching up the hull with single pack. When it came to a full repaint last season I re checked the original paint and discovered my mistake. Anyway after experimenting I decided it was safe to repaint with 2 pack.
There didn't seem to be any problems overpainting the single pack areas despite dire warnings even on quite large areas. I just used two pack gloss Jotun straight on top without any problems there don't seem to have been any adhesion or reaction problems. I'm not reccomending this but it might help anyone with a similar dilemma. Some practical advice from having painted three boats several times with 2 pack.
The paint is usually wonderfully smooth to apply but tack dries too quickly to go back over any of it, so your plan must be to keep moving ahead once you start. Get some scaffolding in place so that you can move quickly the whole length of the boat.
Use big brushes � I used 4inch � with quality bristles that won't be eaten by the solvents. Have several brushes because paint will probably harden on the bristles and scratch the coat before you finish one side. Once you start you will only be stopping to mix 2 Pack Epoxy Paint For Boats 00 more paint and add necessary thinners.
Get the consistency right at the start and then expect to add thinners as you progress along the hull. Keep the wet edge moving. Do not go back for holidays or runs � you will snag the paint. Leave them till the next coat. Do not try to remove flies with your brush or at all.
Leave them even if they are large and staggering about in your wet paint in their death throws. The brush snag to the paint will be worse than their foot prints. Have a helper to move scaffolding ahead of you, to have the two paint parts and thinners ready, to have spare brush to hand, to be shouted at when the tension gets all too much. Paint only with long and easy, smooth vertical strokes.
You cannot paint horizontally and then flatten off vertically because the paint may go off before you complete your finishing stroke and you will be snagging. If painting outside, choose your weather. Try to get a good spell of several days. Start as early as the day allows so you never risk the evening dew. Make sure you have done all the prep before you put brush to paint. Use masking tape to get clean lines around fittings.
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