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It used to be the case that most boats were made out of fiberglass, and most underwater metals were bronze except for the prop shaft, which was marine-grade stainless. In that world, zinc was the perfect anode material. How do I know that? If you look at Table 2 below, you'll see that to protect a fiberglass boat, the anode needs a voltage of between and -1, mV. If you compare that to Table 1 , you'll see that zinc has a reference voltage of to mV, right within the specified range.
At to mV, all bronze alloys are significantly above zinc on the cathodic scale, and shaft-grade stainless is even more noble, at to mV. So zinc will offer plenty of protection. In fact, Aluminum Boats Electrolysis Co. Ltd until just a few years ago, sacrificial anodes were called "zincs," and many boaters still use that term. But our world has gotten a lot more complicated. Zinc anodes have actually begun to fall out of favor in recent years. Zinc works just fine in a true saltwater situation.
But as water becomes more brackish to fresh, zinc becomes less effective. In fresh water, it actually forms an oxide on its surface that stops it from working as a sacrificial anode. The two other anode materials that have come to the fore in recent years are magnesium and aluminum. Magnesium is the most expensive anode material but also the least noble metal on the list, so it runs out of electrons quickly; in fresh water it lasts only about a third as long as zinc.
It can also overprotect other metals that are chemically active, like aluminum, creating too much current, especially in such chemically active water as polluted fresh water or saltwater. The reaction between the aluminum and the magnesium can even result in an alkaline solution that will start eating away at the aluminum.
Magnesium should be used only in clean fresh water, never in brackish, polluted, or saltwater. Aluminum anodes, on the other hand, will work nicely in both salt and brackish water. That's because the alloy used in anodes includes iridium and other metals that interfere with the oxidation of the aluminum.
This is important because many people who keep their boats in the water in coastal communities are often migrating from pure saltwater into brackish and even fresh water on a daily basis. The aluminum alloy in high quality anodes will protect aluminum hulls and sterndrives, so follow your manufacturer's recommendation when replacing anodes.
So once you decide what anode material will work best with your hull material and boating environment, how do you know how many anodes you need?
And how do you determine if your boat's cathodic protection system is in order? You'll also need the silver-chloride reference electrode mentioned earlier. You really can't measure your boat's hull potential accurately without one, at least not using the potential values used throughout ABYC's E-2 standard. I think this is money well spent. Table 2. Recommended range of cathodic protection for boats of different hull materials in saltwater. Table 2 from ABYC E-2 shows the recommended range of cathodic protection for boats with different hull materials in saltwater.
Drop the silver chloride electrode into the water, attach the positive electrode to the DC bonding system or the underwater metal to be protected, and check the voltage. If the reading is higher less negative than shown in Table 2, then you need more anodes. Once the maximum negative voltage potential for the anode material in use is reached as shown in Table 1, adding more anodes will increase anode life but will not have any impact on voltage.
In spite of your best efforts, sooner or later you may be the victim of underwater metal corrosion that is caused by something other than your boat or the level of cathodic protection you have provided. This is where the experts on every dock weigh in with not-so-expert advice that is sure to drive you crazy! Of course, the obvious question is how do you know if you even have a problem? Without the proper measurement equipment, the only way to judge is visual. Keep in mind that if things were done correctly before a spring launch, you should expect to get a full season's use from your sacrificial anodes.
If you suddenly start running through anodes every four weeks, don't jump to conclusions. If environmental conditions haven't changed, start looking for signs of galvanic corrosion. The first sign is paint blistering starting on sharp edges below the waterline, and a white powdery substance forming on the exposed metal areas.
As the corrosion continues, the exposed metal will become deeply pitted. Before it gets to that point, you need a genuine expert with the proper training and some specialized tools to make sure you get a solid diagnosis of the problem s that may be causing either accelerated anode consumption or serious corrosion.
The ABYC has a list of certified corrosion specialists that is searchable by state at its website. This should be your first stop in my opinion. Go to abycinc. We use cookies to enhance your visit to our website and to improve your experience. Membership Search. Service Locator. Get a Quote.
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Vessel Documentation FAQ. Maintenance Techniques Tow Vehicles. How-To DIY. Cleaning Exterior Systems. Design Electronics. Cruising Fishing. Electronics Equipment Maintenance Techniques. Call For a Tow Corrosion can quickly turn steel into a mess like this. Types Of Corrosion And Causes The differences between the types of corrosion we experience on our boats has to do with how the corrosion occurs and how quickly the metal is compromised.
Simple Corrosion The degradation of metal as molecules on the surface combine with oxygen to create a more stable metal oxide. Galvanic Corrosion Occurs when two metals with different electrical potentials are connected together and submerged in a common electrolyte pool. Aluminum alloy sacrificial anodes are available that have a maximum corrosion potential of mV. Stray current corrosion can destroy underwater metals in a matter of days. Stainless steel prop shafts live close to the aluminum in the shaft tube.
Rudder shafts are often stainless steel as well. These are potential corrosion areas that are not readily visible. Be sure to check these areas often for corrosion or degraded zinc anodes. Another cause of corrosion is electrolysis from faulty wiring. Any currents that flow from the aluminum hull to other metals in the area will cause corrosion. Again, zincs will handle the corrosion, but they may rapidly disappear if there are stray currents.
Be sure all electrical equipment is well-grounded and insulated. If you suspect stray currents in your marina, ask a specialist to measure for the problem. Age and hammering through waves can cause these boats to leak at the panel joints. There is no easy way to repair this permanently. Another way to stop the leaks is to thoroughly clean and dry the area around the leaking seam.
Apply Dow sealant and let dry for a day or two. This tenacious sealant sticks and provides a strong seal. But workmanship and clean surfaces are essential for success.
That flexing occurs in most aluminum boats. The only way to repair a fatigue crack is with aluminum welding. Take your boat to a specialist who can not only weld the crack but perhaps apply additional metal to reinforce the area.
Around the transom is an area to inspect for fatigue cracks carefully. If there are any problems, they will be clearly visible. Another issue that many boaters face with their aluminum boats is that they can be loud. The sound of water slapping against an aluminum hull can be jarring if one is not used to it.
While soundproofing options exist to make for a more comfortable ride, most soundproofing work involves aftermarket parts. If you are willing to make some post-purchase modifications to your aluminum boat, the noise level inside the boat can be reduced significantly.
However, keep this issue in mind if you plan to use your aluminum boat in backwaters or choppy lakes. The sounds are less noticeable out on the open sea. While some boaters like the work-boat look of an aluminum boat, you will be hard-pressed to hear other boaters admire your boat as they might varnished woodcraft.
Aluminum boats are also noisy. Drop a tackle box in the bottom of an aluminum boat, and the fish will know you are up there. Riding in aluminum boats is also noisy. Speaking of insulation, aluminum boats transfer heat and cold quite easily. An aluminum hull may be pleasantly cool when fishing in the hot sun. But larger boats with living interior can be uncomfortable. The inside of the Canadian Aluminum Boats Manufacturers Number hull will sweat condensation like a beer can, right out of the cooler.
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