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Be especially careful in your inspection if your trailer's seen saltwater in its lifetime or if you've used acidic hull cleaners. Trailers subjected to these elements typically have significant rust-through and the frame can be very weak. If in doubt, bring it to a trailer shop to have an expert give it the once-over. It's worth the hassle and expense because it just might save you from a catastrophic failure while towing, or at the very least, save you from wasting money and time on a basket case.
For this article, we refurbished a generic galvanized skiff trailer. The old winch was rusty, the frame was showing some minor signs of surface corrosion, the wooden bunks were rotting, and the lights didn't work consistently.
Note: This job will differ with each trailer and its good and bad parts. The size, weight, and type of boat will have a bearing on how easy � or difficult � it is to remove it from the trailer. In my case, the boat was small and lightweight so I was able to pick a good spot in our yard, tilt the boat nose-high, and secure the boat while I pulled the trailer out from under it. On a previous occasion with a larger and heavier boat, I built a temporary cradle from treated pine to hold the boat while I rerigged the boat and rebuilt the trailer.
With the trailer free of the boat, strip all components from it and make a list of what you'll replace. In addition to taking photos, take measurements of where things like the axle, winch, bunks, or rollers, and any spare tire may go. For this project, I wanted to get the trailer back to just the frame and start from there.
I removed the old rotten wooden bunks, the very rusty winch, the lights, and safety chains. The added benefit was that with these components removed, the bare trailer frame was much lighter and easier to handle. I was able to singlehandedly flip the trailer to check the underside, something that would have been impossible with the wheels, springs, and axle in place. Much of the galvanized coating was in good condition, and the main structural members, I was pleased to note, were all in sound condition.
A thorough wire brushing to remove surface rust and scale was pretty easy, though messy and time-consuming. I followed this with a good acetone wipe to clean the surface and prepare it for me to spray cold galvanize paint on all the exposed areas.
Some components, especially around the bunk mounts and light brackets, were pretty corroded and required cutting off with an angle grinder. Reassembly of the trailer was straightforward and quick. I measured for the new bunks using the old ones as templates. Then I cut them from treated pine 2-by-6 boards and covered them with new carpet, which I glued with contact cement and stapled with stainless steel staples on the underside.
To reattach bunks and other components, I used Grade 5 galvanized steel bolts and washers and Nylock locking nuts to eliminate rusting and rattling loose. With the new bunks and winch in place, I wired the trailer with new LED lights and wiring kit, taking care to use grommets and other insulating material where the wiring insulation might chafe. After reinstalling the fiberglass fenders with new stainless bolts, we were ready to winch the boat back onto its trailer.
With a couple of helpers to ensure it goes steadily, the process is much easier than it sounds. Many lighting kits come with these squeeze Scotch-Lok type of wiring connectors that don't stand Bass Tracker Jon Boat Trailer Pdf up to regular dunking. Use waterproof crimp connections instead:. The old trailer was in a sorry state. One of the first jobs was removing the old trailer bunks:. The dirtiest part of the job was removing the old rust prior to refinishing:. To protect the light wiring from chafe and keep everything neat, I used these clips, which require no drilling or alterations to the trailer:.
In addition to the bunks themselves I replaced the severely corroded support brackets:. I attached waterproof carpet to the bunks using contact cement and stainless steel staples:. Before hitting the road, double check all your work, make sure all bolts are tight, and bunks or rollers are well secured. If there is any possible issue, have a professional shop check it. Your trailer will probably be seeing highway duty, so it must be in good condition. In some states you may need to have your trailer inspected, so check with your local Department of Motor Vehicles for regulations in your area.
Often smaller trailers without brakes have less stringent requirements than larger twin- and triple-axle trailers capable of carrying heavy boats, but it always pays to check. We use cookies to enhance your visit to our website and to improve your experience. If you posted your location, you may have people offer to help you. I know if you lived by me, I'd tell you to bring the trailer on over and we'd make it look new.
Metal work is one of my favorite hobbies and I've got every tool known to man to accomplish your task. You can pick up a cheap angle grinder from Harbor Freight if you don't already have one. A wire wheel attachment makes for quick work of rust.
They come is all different size and shapes for large areas and tight areas. Once you've got everything cleaned really well, I'd spray the frame with phosphoric acid to neutralize any rust left over and let it dry really well for a couple of days.
The rust will turn black from a chemical process and will no longer be rust or cause any damage. After that, you can paint it. As far as the bunks go, it's probably just the boards that needs replaced.
So measure what you have now and cut new ones to size, wrap them in carpet, and mount them. You'll want to use treated lumber. Depending on how bad the bunk board mounts are, it's possible you'll have to cut the old mounts off and weld new ones on. This is where the angle grinder will come in handy again.
If you don't have a welder, you can get a metal fabricator to do this for you for a few bucks, even if it requires making new mounts. The winch and the Jack can easily be replaced for not much money.
You can usually find these at your local farm store. But the winch isn't anything but a big gear so it may just be stuck so if you lube it Bass Boat Trailer Cost Questions up and work it around, maybe you can get it working again. I strongly second the advice that Way2slow has given you. I started restoring classic cars before I got my driver's license. I am now 50 years old. I have never seen a product in a can that is as effective as the rust encapsulators that are now availbable for sealing up your old metal.
You will NOT get all the rust off unless you have the entire frame media blasted. I know they are really expensive, but products like POR or Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator this is my preferred will save you a lot of frustration down the road. Do yourself a favor and don't spend the extra money on these expensive branded chemicals in fancy cans. You can buy the active chemical for much cheaper and mix it yourself in a spray bottle.
Phosphoric acid is what you want. I own a power washing company and rust on my trailers is what I deal with on a regular basis. You've never seen the likes of rust until you deal with sodium hypochlorite on an every day basis. I was thinking of riveting angle aluminum onto the frame if I can't find a bracket for the bunks, since I will be a master riveter by the time I am done with the build I will look into fixing the bearing as I will be driving the boat many miles on the highway.
I live outside of philly. That would be amazing to work with other people. As far as the finishing process see the above posts. Those guys know more about that than I for sure.
When it comes to final paint finish I like a satin or maybe semi gloss on a trailer. May work great. Some of the brackets are slotted I would think a bolt would work better in that application but I could be wrong.
Coupler is good, tires good, hubs good, trailer structurally sound. Do not use pressure treated wood for the bunks - the copper in them will eat away any metal touching them that is not hot dipped galvanized or stainless steel think of the brackets holding them.
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