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18.03.2021, adminThe pram-style Optimist is a great starter boat for learning to sail and later learning to race, and youth sailors can literally take their Optimist Dinghy to whatever level they build your own optimist dinghy 89. Any motivated young Optimist sailor will develop both confidence and dinghy sailing skills, from boathandling techniques to big-fleet strategy and tactics; some will go on to race at the highest levels.
The sailors who do best in the class are those who spend the most time sailing their boats, usually with a good coach, strong sailing program, and ample resources. The International Optimist Dinghy Association is the biggest one-design class in the world. Sailors should be fit and agile, able to move gracefully and hike out for extended build your own optimist dinghy 89. Those who do best are usually 12 to 14 years old and weigh up to pounds.
Regionally, top sailors can still compete at or even pounds. Competitive sailors will normally move up to new boats as they reach higher levels. Older boats can remain competitive, but heavy travel and racing schedules put a fair amount of wear and tear on the boats. As a result, used boats may need gelcoat dings and scratches repaired.
Keep in mind that you can purchase different sizes of boom section with different stiffness, although most sailors stick with a mid-range version. As a sailor grows, a stiffer boom may be preferred. If your mast is extremely bendy, it may also help to replace it with a stiffer one as build your own optimist dinghy 89 and size merit. An Optimist weighs only 35 kilograms 77 poundswhich makes it easy to put on top of a car.
There are also many trailering options; some teams own trailers that carry up to 18 boats, build your own optimist dinghy 89 a coach boat! Top sailors will take two sails to a regatta, but just one sail is allowed for the duration of the event; the other is a backup in case of a breakdown. Read more about what North offersfrom a crossover sail for beginners, to two crosscut and four radial-cut racing sails.
Tuning the rig on a boat with an unstayed mast is different than on other boats. It starts before you attach the sail on the mast; first measure your mast rake�from the top of the mast to the edge of the coaming on the transom�and then move the adjustable mast step until you get the right rake measurement for your weight.
The process is detailed in the North Tuning Guide. The Tuning Guide also covers the critical process of tying the sail to the boom, mast, and sprit, and connecting the sprit correctly to the mast.
Having a sprit pole, and a line to change the tension on it, is not the norm on most one-design racing boats. Sprit tension controls leech tension, but if you have too much, a wrinkle will appear between the tack and the peak of the sail. Preventers are another unusual concept on the Optimist. They are needed because of the way the sail, boom, and sprit are connected with the mast.
The top preventer keeps the sail from popping off the top of the mast, and in heavy air, it can be tightened to force the sail to set lower on the mast. The lower preventer, called the boom preventer, maintains boom position on the mast and helps you set the right luff tension for the conditions. There are strict rules about how high or low the sail can be on the mast�a mark on the sail must fall between two marks on the mast to be legal.
These controls are described in the Tuning Guide as. We recommend the Guide build your own optimist dinghy 89 every new sailor and Opti parent. Set your mast rake a bit aft of your base setting, since your mast is probably not going to bend under this wind condition see Tuning Guide. Ease the outhaul until any horizontal crease in the foot disappears and some vertical creases show up above each sail tie; the creases should not pass above the first seam in the sail.
Luff tension should be eased enough that as you sail into a puff, horizontal wrinkles appear at the sail ties along the mast. Focus on where to trim the boom relative to the corner of the transom�a good general rule is no farther inboard than the corner, or leave it just outside. Move the mast rake back to your base setting when you move to the rail, and in build your own optimist dinghy 89 conditions, pull the outhaul tight enough so the vertical creases at the boom sail ties extend only up to the first seam.
Smooth out the wrinkles in the luff by removing one twist in your boom preventer, so you achieve a round, deep nice shape for the entry. Trim the sprit so the sail is very smooth, and trim build your own optimist dinghy 89 mainsheet so the boom is right over the corner or just inside the corner of the transom. When hiking, rake the mast a bit forward from your base setting to compensate for build your own optimist dinghy 89 the mast will bend.
Have your outhaul tight enough that a crease shows in the foot, until you fill the sail with wind. Take another twist off the boom preventer to get good tension on the luff. Sprit build your own optimist dinghy 89 tension should still be tight and the sail, smooth. When trimming, ease the boom to the corner of the boat and sometimes just outside the corner.
You should also have more tension on the outhaul�on shore you may have a crease in the sail, but when the sail fills it should be deeper than that Build Your Own Optimist Dinghy 800 from the foot to the first seam. The key depowering technique is to loosen the sprit tension, take another twist off the preventer, and push the boom down hard to pull on the vang�then, pull only some of the sprit tension back on, which leaves the sail with a wrinkle from the top of the mast to the clew.
This indicates that the top of the sail is flat and the leech is open, which will help you keep the boat upright. Check that when you flick the luff of the sail with your fingers, it is super tight. Tighten the bridle safety line to the boom so it is also super tight; now your mainsheet tension will start bending the boom a bit, further flattening the bottom part of your sail.
The other way to depower is to pull the daggerboard up a little, but use this as a last resort. None of the sail controls are adjusted.
When there are choppy conditions or a big wave, bear off and ease the sail to stay powered up. In a flat spot, trim harder to improve your pointing. Because the Optimist is a hard-chine boat, keeping the boat flat is critical�the boat makes leeway and the rudder works like a brake when you allow heel.
Move your mainsheet and tiller extension to the same hand and use your free hand to toss the water in the bailer overboard. Heading downwind, you always sit on the rail, heeling a little to windward to lift the leeward chine out of the water and to tilt the sail a little higher. In surf and big waves, move aft quite a bit to avoid submarining the bow under a wave and then move forward.
The amount of fore-and-aft body movement is greater in an Optimist than in some other singlehanders because the bow is blunt, so in waves you need to work hard to keep it above water. Otherwise, the most important adjustment is your sprit tension. In light to medium winds, ease the sprit slightly when you round the weather mark so that the sail looks smooth.
Top sailors grab the sheet at the ratchet block and pump it by extending their hand up over their heads. You are allowed one pump per wave, and at major regattas there are on-water judges keeping count.
Think about how far in or out you have the boom, and think about how much you should be moving fore and aft. This takes practice, always build your own optimist dinghy 89 the boat moving but at the slowest speed possible.
You want just enough flow across the leech of your main to hold your spot. In light air, the key is rolling at the right time. Build your own optimist dinghy 89 patient, and wait until the boat is head to wind before you start the roll. Start from sitting inside the boat. As the boat passes head to wind, move to the old windward side to initiate the roll. Then hop across to the new windward side, trying to land inside the boat so as not to over flatten.
In all conditions, over-trim the mainsheet when you start your tack until head to wind so you maintain flow on your sail, then ease it through rest of the process and finally trim the sheet afterwards, usually after the boat has been flattened.
The main trim is the. Ease the main during the tack once you pass head to wind and then trim when fully hiked. Over-rolling build your own optimist dinghy 89 boat and filling it with water is easily the worst mistake.
In light air, be sure not to use too much rudder. We have one word to describe finding the right amount of roll for each condition�practice!
In light air, keep it smooth. Have the boat rocked to weather already, then just lean in and grab the parts of the mainsheet, lean out, and pull the sail. Stand up and walk across the boat to build your own optimist dinghy 89 a big splash, then transition to heel the boat again to windward. In medium winds, your roll jibe is the same but involves a quick hop across the boat as you would in build your own optimist dinghy 89 tack.
In heavy air, the jibe is different. When you are ready to jibe, jibe with confidence by making a decisive turn at the same time that you pull the main.
As the sail comes over, cross the boat quickly to the rail and steer back to leeward on the new jibe. Make sure they are fully inflated so less water gets in the boat. If you flip, right the boat from the windward side and spend at least one minute standing in the boat build your own optimist dinghy 89 bailing hard with both bailers, which are attached to the boat with bungee cords.
At that point you can start sailing and bail out the rest as you go. Practice making degree turns. Doing circles not only is good practice for when you may have to clear yourself build your own optimist dinghy 89 a foul in a race, but also teaches you to sail the boat well, using your body weight to trim and turn the boat. The Optimist has a huge rudder, which also makes s fast, but good movement and trim is the key.
It takes practice to learn where the edge is in heavy air. Other mistakes we see include using too much rudder instead of doing smooth roll tacks and roll jibes. This applies to sailing in a straight line. For example, avoid using too much rudder downwind. If you start heeling to weather too much, the boat wants to head.
Instead of pushing the tiller to compensate, shift your body weight to leeward and trim the main. The Opti class is by far the largest and most dynamic one-design class, in part because it has the most variables on the planet. Parents, coaches, and thousand of young sailors, growing up through a super-sensitive time of their lives.
The basic strategies and tactics the class requires are a great outlet build your own optimist dinghy 89 an excellent way to learn the values of discipline and conservative decision-making. Whether you travel build your own optimist dinghy 89 learn about getting through airports and how to make friends in other countries, or you simply learn to take care of your own boat and sail on your own, Optimist sailing is a chance for you to learn a whole lot about yourself in a supportive, fun, rewarding environment.
The Optimist is sailed all over the world and has a half dozen continental championships. After sailors age out, some go on to contend for Laser Radial and 4.
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A support can assistance up to 500 lbs.
If you are confident and fairly efficient, this is a hour project. Then comes the two real problems: 1 getting and keeping your young sailor interested; and 2 sacrificing your own sailing time to accomplish 1. I cannot assist with that, but this article is intended to walk through the major steps in building a sailable Optimist DN. Many details are omitted for brevity. This also enhances your problem solving skills.
Read more on Building the Ice Optimist pdf file. Building the Ice Optimist. Share this: Facebook Twitter More Print. Well, here they are: The jig as well as the major parts of the boat. Now to get started, the jig we have designed is the exact dimensions of a finished hull shape.
Both ends of the jig have interlocking pieces to allow for inserting and removing as needed during the building of the boat. These should be cut so as to be flush with the top of the form and screwed into place to prevent movement. The bottom boards provide a stable platform for the jig to sit on. The jig should be placed on a flat surface for the build, as distortion to the jig will transfer to the boat being built.
Save the scraps for blocking. The file for the hull bottom, midship frame, dagger board case sides and corner braces are cut from one 4' x 8' sheet The first cuts should be for the 6mm deep dado at both ends of the hull to join the bow and transoms to.
The second cut should be for the dagger board trunk cut out. The third cut should be the outline of all the pieces. In order to fit both sides of the dagger board trunk on one sheet, one side will have a joint to be epoxied together to match the other side.
The next setup should be for 6mm plywood. Again a 4' x 8' sheet will make both ends, both sides, mast thwart frame and again scraps can be used for doublers and clamping pads. You now have a boat cut and ready for a little fitting. Bevel the edges of the bottom to the approximate angles of 15 degrees with a block plane and you are ready to start your build. I would recommend a dry fit of all parts prior to mixing epoxy.
This doesn't take long and may save you a lot of trouble with messy epoxy. Center the bottom in the jig, stand on it to bow it and hold it down, and temporarily screw it to the 2" x 4" 's mm each side of center line to allow for gluing of the doublers without covering the screws, so they can be removed later.
The holes will be filled in when the boat is removed from the jig with epoxy. Rip a 4' x 8' sheet of 4mm plywood into 1- mm strip and mm strips with a 45 degree beveled edge.
This can be done on the ShopBot or a table saw. These are the doublers for the bottom to meet design minimum thickness while saving weight. Once these are epoxied into place and trimmed you are ready to install the sides, mid ship frame, bow and transom. The mid ship bulkhead can be used to position the strips in the correct place on the bottom of the hull. Once these are epoxied in position, placing some weights on top, until cured, works well.
You will be covering the dagger board slot, but that can be easily cut out once the hull is removed from the jig and turned upside down for fitting the dagger board trunk and filling of screw holes.
The plans show two temporary braces. These can be made from any scrap plywood and are used to hold the proper shape of the sides while doing the assembly and glue up. Once the gunwale rails are installed these will be removed and discarded. The bow and transom fit into the dado at the front and rear of the hull bottom panel.
The sides wrap around the outsides. A couple small blocks of wood screwed onto the jig at the bow and stern help in keeping the sides in position while clamps are applied. A small slot cut into the two forward jig pieces to allow a small bar clamp of your choice works well to hold the two sides together tightly. Once you are comfortable with the fit of all the parts your ready to mix epoxy.
Wet out each side with unthickened epoxy. Then add a small layer of thickened epoxy and assemble with the temporary braces and mid ship brace installed. Next is the mast deck and thwart.
Fit and epoxy in place. Some of the scraps of 18mm can be used for the doubler in these areas. You can install the bow and transom doubler before or after this step. Gunwale rails and rub rails are next. You can use layers of plywood or fancy colorful woods if you plan to use a clear finish to show off your work. Build up the layers until you get to the final thickness required, per the plans.
Rip 1 for each side of boat starting with a 45mm wide piece stepping down 5mm for each 10mm of thickness. Cut out pockets for and install the corner blocks next. Form and shape the rails to the required shape and thickness and you are ready to remove the boat from the Jig. We used a hand planer for the rough shape and finished with a belt sander. It will now hold its shape and dimensions.
The jig can be used as a cradle to support the boat as you work on it either upside down or right side up. Once the boat is removed from the jig, it can be turned over and all joints filled with thickened epoxy. Install the dagger board trunk through the hull and epoxy in place. We choose to put our club logo and hull on the sides of the dagger board trunk.
Once again the ShopBot makes this a blank canvas for your artistry. Below one of the boys is rounding the edges before the dagger board trunk is installed. Shape the bottom of the dagger board trunk to conform to the hull bottom from the outside once it is cured in place.
Install the doubler pieces on the inside to help support the dagger board trunk. We installed a few wood dowels into the midship frame to add strength as well. Sand, epoxy and finish the exterior of the hull as desired, Build Your Own Optimist Dinghy Cell with either paint or a clear finish. On the inside of the hull fillet the joints with thickened epoxy. Install the flotation attachment pads, and main sheet block pad.
Sand, epoxy and finish the interior of the boat as desired and the hull portion of your sail boat is ready for hardware installation.
We chose white enamel for the insides for a cleaner look. You will also find the plans from one of the internet sites below. Download these and print copies to have available as you work. To build a race legal hull requires a measurement by a certified Optimist qualified measure person. Plan on 4 hours or more for this process. The PDF file is the list of measurements for the hull. The tolerances are close, but with the use of the CNC controlled cutting you should have a race legal hull that your kids can be fully involved in the building of.
The dagger board piece and rudder that was cut will need to be shaped and profiled. Again we used a plane for the rough shape, followed by the belt sander. Hardware kits are available online as well as sails, spars, FRP rudders and dagger boards at very reasonable prices. Sail Plan The sail can be home-made, as well, but with mass production the prices just are hard to beat.
Again the spars can be made from PVC pipe, Wood or Aluminum tubing, but most can be purchased for a cheaper price than your time and investment. You probably won't need the hottest racing level gear until you see if your kids are in for it. Then watch out if they catch the bug! You will be one proud parent to have started them out on such a great and rewarding life of sailing. Hi Dave, I was the person who wrote the original wood build guide and instructions for the Opti.
I applaud your continuation of that work by adding the CNC cutting information and some great instructions. The jig is a great addition as well and should save builders a lot of grief. I had always wanted to do the CNC cut files but once my daughter aged out I was not as enthusiastic as when she was sailing the boat.
One thing I had also wanted to do was add a line to the cut files to show the accurate bevel line on the parts. I would mark the line or lightly score with the router and then fully cut the part at the outside dimension so there was an accurate cut with good guidance for the bevels to fit. Anyway, congratulations to you and thanks for the contribution. By the way we were able to build boats down to weight and a good sailor could compete at the top levels with a properly equipped wood boat.
Question 2 years ago on Step 7. Cutting the templates right now, but can't seem to find the two temporary braces that are mentioned and shown in step 5. Anyone know where these are located or have a reference to the dims? I've looked through all files multiple times and I'm going nuts, not being able to find them. Will be building two oppies with my boys 8 and 9 this winter in preparation for new summer adventures! Thanks for the instructable!
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