$@# Fiberglass Boat Building And DIY Guide &^@!

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Current visitors New profile posts Search profile posts. Boat Info. Tiller Building A Sailboat Tiller 90 refinishing. Thread starter stiggy Start date Jun 11, Forums Brand-Specific Forums S2. JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.

Jun 11, 14 S2 9. My wife and i just recently purchased our first boat. The tiller on the boat is very badly in ned of some attention, after some sanding what should i use to refinish it? I was thinking of using varnish. Any suggestions. Jun 10, 3, Toller 9. Spar varnish will work fine, but you should build ups number of coats with light sanding in.

Epiphanes 1. Sand to bare bright wood. Blow off with compressed air or vacuum. Wipe with acetone - 2 rag method. Let dry only until not tacky. Recoat 5 more times with Epiphanes full strength. Let dry for several days. Sand with grit sandpaper.

Blow off dust, and wipe with acetone 2-rag method. In a totally dust free environment, apply one final coat of Epiphanes full strength. Ramblin' Rod. Jul 29, Mac Mac 26D Suwannee. I did my tiller in gloss looks like its still wet building a sailboat tiller waste harder then nails over 5 yrs ago.

I wont waste the time appling triditional varnish anymore to my building a sailboat tiller waste, theres soo much advancement in the industry on ext. Building a sailboat tiller waste 22, 7, Beneteau Annapolis MD. I was tilller some epoxy work 15 years ago. I decided to dip the fore-end of my B tiller into the epoxy, maybe 3 inches, just tillef see how it would work out sealing the wastr grain.

When I sold the boat 5 years later, it was still there- and bright. I assume epoxy of some sort would do the whole tiller nicely? Sep 15, 6, S2 9. Blackburn designs here in the atlanta area used to make custom kayak paddles and he had a tube filled with thinned west system epoxy that he would dip them in about 4 times before putting on the final finish and they seemed to hold up building a sailboat tiller waste well on the rivers and streams up in the tennessee mountains.

Dec 11, 1, catalina C27 stillwater. Many wood boat show queens have a first layer of epoxy, block sanded to smooth and wastf, with a few layers building a sailboat tiller waste real varnish op top. The epoxy fills the wood grain and provides that super-flat initial film, then the varnish provides the UV protection and silky-smooth top coat.

I was glad to see ramblinrod's recommendation of an acetone treatment after sanding, but I want to elaborate. At the point in your finish prep where you are ready to do an acetone wipe-down you need to understand you are removing two things with the acetone and rag s. An obvious thing being removed is the sanding dust. The other is oil. What people often don't consider is that many boat building woods are naturally oily and trying to apply varnish to oily wood is like trying to varnish a teflon pan It will peel right off.

When putting any finish on wooden boat parts, you want to remove the oils from not only the surface of the wood, but down waxte the wood.

Displacing the oils with the acetone scrub allows your finish buiilding it epoxy, building a sailboat tiller waste, cetol, or whatever to dive into the wood rather than just lying on it.

Wste recommendation at acetone wipe-down stage is to have a bunch of white rags handy and ready to go. Start with a clean acetone-soaked rag and clean off your. Throw that rag aside and get another clean one. Soak it and scrub. Do this repeatedly until whichever rag you are working with stays white with no discoloration.

Do this in a well-ventilated area please Wiping to "clean-rag" stage ensures that you have removed surface oils as well as waset away sailbboat even to some depth in the wood. Then, when it is time to apply that first thinned coat as ramblinrod suggests, the finish will go into the wood. This will give your total finish build a much better mechanical grip to your work piece and will give you a much longer service life.

I used to recommend an Interlux product called Jet Speed as a base grain filler varnish, specifically because it could saulboat applied in a build schedule that allowed two coats every day.

That allowed you to get many more coats on when compared with a relatively slow Building A Sailboat Tiller Usa drying product like Epiphanes. You Building A Sailboat Tiller Quote had to top it with a finish coat of finish varnish that contained UV stabilizers, as the Jet Speed did not have any. I don't think I can recommend that today, as it appears Interlux has discontinued Jet Speed. Know this too regarding sanding. With most varnishes, even when dry to the touch you still have a pretty high solvent out-gassing; the finish is relatively building a sailboat tiller waste, so much so that an oily hand-print will end up showing up as a cloudy spot for weeks, as the hand-print slows the outgassing where the oils from your hand have contaminated the surface.

Ask me building a sailboat tiller waste I know My point building a sailboat tiller waste bringing this up is that you DO NOT need to sand between every coat in a varnish build schedule. I prefer to sand every fourth coat. The dried-to-the touch finish still Building A Sailboat Tiller 25 has enough volatile solvents migrating out that you can apply a coat on top and achieve a chemical bond to the "dried" previous coat.

This is especially preferred if you have applied any stain to the wood prior to varnish. The extra layers give building a sailboat tiller waste a thicker surface building a sailboat tiller waste sand; less chance of sanding through building a sailboat tiller waste leaving a bright spot of un-stained wood. Ralph Johnstone. Jan 4, 3, Hunter West Vancouver, B. For the Ultimate Finish Ralph, so are you saying cover the entire tiller in a single layer of 6 oz.

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Go on this representation until building a sailboat tiller waste partitions have reached a preferred tallness .

Aug 05, �� A console gets my vote. It's not a total waste of space as you can store some things in it. I find it far more comfortable to steer a boat from the console than with a tiller. A side console requires trim tabs. It really depends on the skiff though. If you have the room for remote steer then I'd go that way but if you don't then tiller. W hen it came to selecting a tiller for the rudder of my Sooty Tern, UNA, I had to consider the two options designer Iain Oughtred provided for getting around the mizzen mast: a wishbone tiller that divides around the mizzenmast, or a Norwegian tiller, a short tiller set at a right angle to the rudder and operated with a push-pull stick. The former would provide the same feel as a conventional. Woodboat building questions a Forum for wooden boat building, plans, lumber, caulking compounds and other boat building problems. Worm shoe Sacrificial Protection for Wooden Boats A Worm Shoe is a non structural piece of wood whose 'sole' purpose is to protect the underwater wooden parts of a wooden boat keel, they need checking and replacing.

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