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Hey guys, Thank you for the replies. I've spent a bit of time reading the forum and looking at other 'jon boat' plans on the net, and I've modified my initial design.
In the future, I may purchase plans and modify them to suit my own design, but for this first project, I think I'm going to just go with this basic design and consider purchasing plans in the future for something a bit more complex, even 14 Foot Flat Bottom Jon Boat Trailer Locations though I have questions about this 'simple' design!
One of the goals of this little project is to just keep it as simple and cheap as possible for now. I was wondering if someone could answer a few ques that I have: In the attached picture, there is the rough outline and dimensions, as well as the proposed 'skeleton' of the boat made from 2x2s. I have a center 'transverse' beam in lieu of making seats so I can have an open concept. Does this plan look stable enough now, or are the few 'extra' transverse beams that I've now included overkill since it will be epoxied?
I would be putting cloth and epoxy on the outside and Diy Flat Bottom Jon Boat 12 inside of all seams, but should the entire boat surface be coated as well, or just the seams? The entire underside would be epoxied of course, but does the entire inside need it as well, or just the seams? Do I now have 'too many' transverse beams? Again, the boat will be used for shallow, calm water, and will have rub strips along the underside for added stability and for protection from rocks etc. JPG File size: 1. VV Cephei , May 2, Too complicated Use a 1x6 for a buttblock in the after section.
Don't try to have a sharp angle forward Jons have a curve for a few reasons, one being that plywood bends. There may be a bit of flex to the panels but that won't be damaging to the structure. If you double up on the wales and use some external skids you won't have many problems. Why don't you want any seats?
At the very least put a bit of curvature in the bottom as it will help stiffen it and prevent oil-canning. Curvature can make the ply act as if it was twice as thick, without the weight and cost, and it will go faster and smoother. You can google PDRacer for an example of a boat with curved bottom and flat sides.
A bit of a curve will do the same thing for the sides: they do not have to come all the way in to a point at the bow.
If you make the front plate pram transom slope a bit the boat won't come to an abrupt stop when you run into a wave form a bigger boat see PDRacer again. At this point you will find you have something looking more like a boat. It is actually easier to do it this way than the way you have sketched: ply bends easily and it will save you have to make joints that are strong enough and waterproof.
The butt joints can be made with the planks flat. Most ply boats have a stiffening member along the top sheer of the side planks which is called a gunnel. You're not alone in avoiding curves at all costs! Curves are not hard to do at all, especially on a jon boat.
You may not curve the sides but absolutely try and curve the bottom into the bow. The rocker will as mentioned add stiffness across the boat, eliminating the need for so many frames. Just spring a batten along the sides to give about " of rocker and copy one side to the other.
If the sides are parallel, lie the chine logs down flat and they will, if coaxed, curve right up to the bow as well as curving easily along the bottom. Usually, chine logs are vertical, but in your boat they won't take the curve that way. Use seats as frames, and hide flotation in them Three cavities, both bow and stern shelves and the center thwart seat.
Hey, It's been awhile, and I thought I'd update this thread with what I ended up doing. First, thank you to everyone who gave their advice and input in this thread, it was much appreciated, and much needed.
Well, I realized that my square design that I had initially come up with wasn't going to cut it, so I took the advice to make some curves in it. The length of the boat is 10'. It is 46" wide at the stern, 48" in the middle, and narrowing to 38" at the bow. It is 18" high at the stern, and it's 20" high in the middle before tapering off towards the bow. There is a layer of 6oz epoxy 'mat' underneath and coming up 6" or so on the sides.
I used a lot of epoxy on the bottom, more than I should have, but it was my inexperience at 'fiberglassing' that caused me to use so much. I decided not to put seats in it, because I want the space for carrying things I have in it, but I included a 2x2 across the top and bottom near the middle of the boat. It will be only for slow speeds 2hp outboard and used in fairly shallow, calm water.
The pictures I have here are before I put the epoxy and cloth on. I have more pictures I could show, but it seems that I'm at my size limit here with the 3 pics I've already posted in this thread. Anyways, I wanted to come back to say thanks, and also to show you guys what I ended up doing. Any comments, questions, or criticisms are welcome! VV Cephei , May 29, You have built your self a Jon boat. Add a couple skegs to keep her tracking straight.
Looks much better than the proposed drawing To post pics your best bet is to find a free site that hosts pics then link to them. You may find that it will be fairly easy to twist it without any bulkheads to give it rigidity so a couple of knees from side to bottom might be in order to help with this.
The quick and easy way to find do this is to get corner molding at the box store Two or three per side should work Steve. Well done. It will serve. You must log in or sign up to reply here. Show Ignored Content. One MSR Swivel Mount is all you need to hold many different accessories in any rod holder at any angle.
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