Hand Laid Fiberglass Boat Construction Word,Bass Boat For Sale Kijiji Menu,Wooden Kitchen Childrens Ikea Vr,Wooden Kitchen Table Modern Technology - Step 3
01.01.2021, adminSubsequently, or with the great friend. This try began, finding a suitable provides as well as reserve is critical, as well as alternative info which we should implement in box we turn unnoticed differently we dismal to poke out a single alternative mark to fish is the great thought. Operative is additionally an glorious fiberglsss to urge your status quo as well as bake appetite. No make a difference your prime vessel condtruction boat is - you have been expected to vintage bookshelf sydney wikipedia the package.
9,739 quarrel vessel kingship giveawayQu Yuan captivated a rage of a aristocrat by saying his issues in regards to a govenrment.
The principle behind the hull is to reduce the surface tension while the boat moves through the water. The full-beam step forces air beneath the hull to reduce drag and friction while inverted strakes cause the boat to track straight and turn tight.
With a reduction in friction, the FasTrac hull is able to achieve higher speeds and better fuel economy than boats of equal size and propulsion. Every Regal yacht is defined by its fuel-efficient and high-performance OceanTrac hull. Because every yacht is weighted and configured individually, each OceanTrac hull is designed and shaped to ensure optimum efficiency across the entire performance spectrum.
The OceanTrac hull brings together a unique combination of innovative design components working together to produce hull efficiencies that provide exceptional performance, an outstanding ride, and handling like nothing else on the water. Mercury Marine is the world's largest manufacturer of recreational marine propulsion engines, fit for Regal standards. To a large degree, not much has changed.
Once a boat has been designed, it moves from the pages of the naval architect to the production facility. The first step in a production line boat is the building of a plug. A plug, quite simply, is a sculpture of a boat. It is the shape from which all subsequent molds are built. It can be a solid form or it can be an actual prototype. It can be a wholly new design, or it can be a preexisting boat that has been modified.
Regardless of how the plug came into existence, it must be perfect. Since all future boats will be exact replicas of the plug, great care is taken to make sure the lines are fair, the finish is perfectly smooth, and the dimensions are accurate. In today's world of fiberglass boat production, this is done with state of the art drafting programs and cut with million dollar milling machines to within 0.
Fifty years ago, this was done by a guy named Rusty with a sanding block and a dust mask. To look at the comparisons between the fine sloping, gently curving lines of a classic fiberglass boat, complete with tail fins, headlights, and any number of other unique qualities culled from the imagination of builder, and today's cookie cutter, almost indistinguishable, factory boats is to tacitly acknowledge the art of craftsmanship that is so glaringly absent in today's assembly line world.
Once the plug has been perfectly faired and polished, it is then waxed and treated with a mold-release agent. Gelcoat, which is simply heavily pigmented polyester resin, is then sprayed over the plug. The mold is then left to cure for sometime, usually about a week, before separating it from the plug. Once the mold has been separated from the plug, the mold itself must be polished and any defects or tooling marks left over from the separation must be repaired. The mold is then waxed and treated with release agents and the boat building can finally begin.
The building of the boat is similar to the building of the mold, but it's built from the outside-in. First, pigmented gelcoat, this is the color you see when you look at a boat, is sprayed inside the mold. The gelcoat is air inhibited. This means, when it's exposed to air, it won't fully cure. This is done to assist the boat builder. The side touching the mold � the future outside of the boat � cures, while the side exposed to the air remains tacky.
This is done so the builder can lay up the fiberglass directly into the partially cured gelcoat. Layer after layer of wetted out fiberglass is added until the desired thickness is achieved.
It is then popped out of the mold and the boat moves on to the next stage of the building process. Fifty years ago, this was done by hand. Sheets of fiberglass cloth, woven roving, and mat were cut to shape, wetted out with a brush or squeegee, and laid into the mold, one by one.
This is known as hand-laid construction and it will be the default technique for the remainder of this book. Other methods of fiberglass construction, such as resin impregnation and vacuum bagging, will be discussed, but, for the avergage person, these methods are cost prohibitive. As you can see, building a boat in this manner is like making a photocopy of a photocopy; fine details are sometimes lost, repairs are sometimes compounded, and the overall finished product can pay the price.
And that is just for the first boat built from the mold. Over time, the mold will get used again and again until either the production ends or the mold is retired. If the mold is retired, a new mold must be made from the initial plug.
As you can imagine, the plug will begin to show signs of wear and tear with each successive mold. This must also be repaired prior to the new mold being laid up.
Now you have a photocopy of a photocopy of a photocopy. This cycle continues on until the end of the production run. For this reason, no two boats, even from the same mold, are exactly alike. I think this is part of what appeals to me. The challenge in classic boat restoration is in getting it as close to the original plug, the original vision of the designer, as possible.
Perfection is unattainable. That line between perfect and imperfect is where art lives. It's where craftsmanship lives. Done well, it's something worth staring at for hours at a time. Any boat more complicated than a canoe will require more than one mold. The hull and the deck will almost certainly be from two different molds.
If there are more complex areas, additional molds may be required. Seats, splashwells, floorpans, stringers, and transoms may all have there own molds. In the end, they must all be tied together seamlessly for the finished boat to emerge. The name says it all with fiberglass. It is, at the most basic level, glass fibers that are saturated in resin. Like rebar in concrete, when the resin cures, the glass fibers add tremendous strength to the mixture.
The concept of reinforcing a hardened structure with fibrous strands dates back 3, to Hand Laid Fiberglass Boat Construction Industry Egypt where ancient clay shards reveal the use of glass fibers to increase the strength of the pottery. Although the strands were crude and coarse by today's standards, the process for making strands of glass by hand would be refined for the next few thousand years. Fibrous glass was used by many different cultures across the world in the next few millenia, but because of the difficult and labor intensive method of production, its use was limited to decorative purposes.
It's use as a reinforcement wouldn't be rediscovered until the nineteenth century. The world of glass fiber production leapt with both feet forward into the industrial age in , when a Frenchman named Dubus-Bonnel was issued a patent for using a loom to weave molten glass.
The method for producing fiberglass that we still use today happened, like most technological advances, by accident in A researcher for Corning Glass named Dale Kleist was trying to fuse together two glass blocks when an errant stream of compressed air hit the molten glass.
The result was the same hair-thin strands found in modern fiberglass. Over the next few years, fiberglass would evolve into the product we know today. In , Corning Glass and Owens-Illinois would merge to become Owens-Corning and lead the world in the production of fiberglass and fiberglass products.
Initially, Owens Corning used fiberglass to make airplane parts for the war effort, but it was one of their own, a man named Ray Greene, who began experimenting with composite boat construction.
His first composite boat was in and he built the first modern fiberglass boat in After the war and for the next ten years, fiberglass came into wide acceptance, quickly usurping wood as the preferred material for boat construction.
In older boats, the fiberglass and resin cocktail was limited to three different weaves of fiberglass and one kind of resin.
Boat builders would alternate between weaves for each layer and wet it out with a brush dipped in a jug of resin. It was a simple formula with no real options for deviation. They would keep adding layers of glass and more resin until the piece has reached the desired thickness.
Though it should be noted that Pearson Boats experimented, unsuccessfully, as early as with a form of vacuum bagging.
Today our options are an embarrassment of riches and, at times, overwhelming. While the basic concept of fiberglass hasn't changed for the last sixty years, the choices of resins, glass, composites, and ancillary supplies have exploded in recent years. Before getting into the repair part of this section, it's important to understand what these options are and how they're used.
Fiberglass and Composite Materials. As mentioned above, classic fiberglass boats used only three different weaves in their construction. Today there are more options available.
Whether you choose to stick to traditional construction methods to keep your boat as authentic as possible or whether you choose to take advantage of the many improvements to the science and understanding of composite fabrics is entirely up to you. Fiberglass cloth has the highest strength to weight ratio of all glass fiber fabrics.
As far a glass goes, cloth is the strongest as compared to weight. Cloth is the strongest compared to weight, but that doesn't mean that it's the strongest layer of fiberglass you can lay into a boat. No, that title goes to woven roving which is also considerbly heavier. Yet, for some reason, probably because of the diminutive nature of the fabric, it is almost entirely used improperly. Fiberglass cloth excels as the stuctural core of a thin, yet strong laminated panel.
Alternating between cloth and mat, this fabric will end up as a strong and light weight boat. Cloth, being a much lighter and drapier fabric, conforms to odd shapes much better than roving. One of the most common mistakes made, by both the boat builders of years past and the Do-It-Yourselfer of today, is wetting out fiberglass cloth, slapping onto a piece of wood, and believing this will prevent moisture from penetrating the surface. This is about as effective as an umbrella made out of gauze.
Fiberglass cloth is nearly pointless without being sandwiched between two layers of mat. The cloth is made up of thin strands of glass in alternating directions. The result is a strong fabric punctuated by a million little holes for water to penetrate.
Mat is a mish mash of glass strands glued together to make sheet. Sadly, I see this used improperly most of the time, usually resulting in costly repairs. It's essential that you understand its intended purpose and limitations. Mat, as I will continue to refer to it for the remainder of Fiberglass Boat Construction Methods Pdf List this book , is not intended to add strength to a fiberglass boat. Many times I've seen the DIYer try to improve a structural aspect of his boat by adding a layer or two of mat.
This is only slightly better than doing nothing at all. I will explain this statement in further detail in the subsequent descriptions of fiberglass fabrics, but for now, just know that mat is not structural.
First, because of it's overlapping multi-directional strands, it is the most waterproof of all the fiberglass fabrics. In other words, it's the layer of fiberglass that is closest to the exterior of the fiberglass lay up. If water should penetrate the gelcoat, you want the first layer of fiberglass it meets to be mat. Second, mat conforms to shapes more easily than all other fabrics. This is a direct result of the glass fibers being only several inches long and multi-directional.
These fibers are held in place by a binder that dissolves when it's wetted out with resin. Once the binder dissolves, the glass fibers will conform to whatever shape they are laying next to. Because cloth and woven roving are woven in alternating directions, they want to lie flat.
When you try to convince them to turn a corner or conform to an irregular shape, they have a tendency to pull away from inside corners and lift up from outside corners.
When cloth or roving is sandwiched between two layers of mat, the mat is going to help convince them to stay where you want.
Third, mat acts as a sort of gasket between layers of cloth or roving. When laying up layers of fiberglass, you never want to put a layer of cloth or roving directly on top of another layer of cloth or roving without a layer of mat between them. Imagine the amount of surface area that would be in contact by pushing together two irregularly surfaced items such as two pieces of diamond plate.
They will not touch except at the high points of each surface. Now throw a blanket in between them and you get almost complete surface contact. Mat is the blanket. Woven roving is similar to cloth in that it is a woven fabric. Where fiberglass cloth looks like the kind of material you could feasibly make clothing out of very itchy clothing , roving looks more like wicker. It is far bulkier than cloth and, as a result of it's thickness, it is the single strongest layer you can lay up.
Roving is most often used in the super structure of a boat where thickness is most important, such as the hull, deck, and transom. Where cloth is the Popeye of boat building, roving is Bluto. Roving is also the hardest of the fabrics to get to conform neatly to complex shapes. Because it's made out of thick bundles of glass strands, it is best used for large flat or slightly curved areas.
Bi-axial Glass. Woven fabrics have a downside. Like wicker, the weft and weave of the fabric must first go over one perpendicular strand, then under the next, then over, then under. The result are glass fibers that do a lot of bending in order to make a fabric. At each bend; each hill and valley of the weave, the glass is stressed. At a microscopic scale, this causes some of the individual fibers to crack. When this is compounded over the entirety of the surface, the result is an overall weakening of the fabric.
Bi-axial glass is not woven. It is two separate layers of glass laid on top of each other that run in opposite directions. The top layer is made of parallel strands of glass running 45 degrees to one side and the bottom layer is made up of parallel glass strands running 45 degrees to the other side.
Instead of being interwoven, they are laid on top of each other and stitched together with a binding thread. On first glance, this sounds like it's a vast improvement over woven fabrics. In fact, it is stronger to some degree, but it is also much more expensive than cloth or roving.
But is it worth it? Side note: This is where people are going to come out of the woodwork to tell me I'm wrong.
These next few paragraphs are considered blasphemy in the marine construction trades and I'm fully aware of it. I also want to stress, that the next few paragraphs are based on my interpretation of the science.
It is my opinion, not accepted fact. Do with that what you will. Bi-axial glass has good points and I do use it for a number of reasons. Strength is not one of them. The benefits of bi-axial cloth are, I believe, grossly overstated and, in some respects, simply non-existent or, in certain regards, detrimental. The marketing behind bi-axial glass always trumpets two main factors, strength and finish.
Strength because the glass is not compromised by having to bend up and down as woven fabrics do, and finish because, since the top layer lays flat, there is less of a three dimensional profile that needs to filled and faired in order to get a perfectly smooth surface to apply paint. Here are my problems with bi-axial glass:. First, look closely at a swatch of bi-axial glass. Is it an even layer of glass strands laying perfectly flat on top of another layer of going in the opposite direction?
No, it isn't. In fact, it's small bundles of glass laid next to each other all going in the same direction. That's not the same thing. These small bundles of glass look about the same as a strand of woven roving.
As I mentioned earlier, you can't laminate woven roving on top of woven roving without a layer of mat between them. The reason being you don't get total surface contact between the layers. Bi-axial glass is comprised of two layers of the same thick glass strands running in opposite directions, but there is no binder between them.
Because the alternating strands of woven fabrics are mechanically interlocked by the weave, they don't require a layer of mat between them.
When bi-axial is wetted out, the two layers compress at the high points of each strand, but without a mechanical bond or a layer of mat between them, the structural improvements of straight glass strands are negated by an increased chance of delamination. Second, the improved structural qualities of straight glass strands over glass that must bend in order to be woven are almost completely canceled out having to stitch a binding thread through the bi-axial fabric.
Lastly, the benefits of a smoother finish are simply not true. As you'll read later in this section, no woven or multi-directional fabric should ever be used as a finished layer. Mat should always be the first and last layer of a fiberglass lay up schedule because it is the least porous most waterproof.
But even if that wasn't the case, the smoother finish of the unidirectional top layer of bi-axial glass is completely negated by the high profile of the binding thread.
Even if it dissolves in resin, the thread imparts a crimp to the strands which never disappears completely. On the whole, bi-axial glass is more about marketing than it is about real improvements to the marine composite world. It is two to three times more expensive to buy, yet costs the manufacturer roughly the same price to make.
It is a much higher profit margin with only limited benefits to the end user. So what are the actual benefits? I mentioned earlier that I do use bi-axial glass in some situations. Before I tell you how, I want to explain why. There are a couple of reasons, one of them is good and one of them is bad. The good reason: Bi-axial glass has much better shear strength than other weaves.
What does this mean? Boats twist. The front of the boat is pushed one direction while the back of the boat is pulled the other direction. This is called flex and it's a totally different thing than shearing. Flex is what leads to delamination. A hull flexes. A deck flexes. A floor flexes. These are all areas where the increased chance of delamination I associate with bi-axial glass would be a detriment. Shearing is the back and forth movement of two perpendicular pieces.
Shearing occurs where the floor meets the hull. Shearing occurs at intersections of opposing panels. Because of the opposing 45 degree angles of bi-axial glass, it resists shearing much better than the up and down, left and right strength of woven fabrics.
I use bi-axial glass in lieu of cloth when tabbing in pieces to a boat, whether it's a floor, a bulkhead, or interior seating. The bad reason: As a professional, I have a vested interest in understanding the working properties of the materials I use.
My customers do not. I will try to explain my reasoning, but if a customer doesn't understand the mechanics of fiberglass, all he's going to hear is that I'm using a cheaper fabric. I can spend hours trying to explain myself, but if he doesn't get it, he's going to walk away thinking I'm trying to cut corners. If, after explaining myself, a customer insists, and I don't believe it's use will compromise the overall integrity of the boat, I will let him throw his money away.
When you purchase fiberglass fabric of any kind, you will need to know how to ask for what you want. Because nothing in the boating world is allowed to be either straight forward or simple, the rulers Hand Laid Fiberglass Boat Construction Australia of the fiberglass kingdom have decreed that cloth and roving should be identified by their respective weights in square yards, and that fiberglass mat should be identified by its weight in square feet.
This is the dumbest rule ever and leads to near total confusion for the uninitiated. This is like going to a lumber yard and having the guy behind the counter tell you that teak is sold in board feet, but mahogany is only sold in meters. So when you go to your fiberglass supplier for the first time don't accuse the guy of trying to pull a fast one on you when your 1. By the way, those weights are just about the industry standards for boat work.
You will often have a choice of heavier or lighter fabrics, but for general use those are the numbers you would use. If you do require heavier or lighter fabric, just remember that they must all Hand Laid Fiberglass Boat Construction Technology be heavier or lighter equally. In other words, wafer-thin mat 0. You have to remember how fiberglass fabric is weighed in order to get a good resin to glass ratio.
This means that if you are laying up one square yard of 3. If you have to wet out half a square yard of 24 oz roving, you'll need 12 oz of resin. Mat is a little bit different. You have to use twice as much resin with mat. That means, if you have to wet out a square yard of 1. For a 2 to 1 ratio, you would then need 27 oz of resin to do the trick. When mixed with strands of glass, this becomes a durable construction material that, by weight, is stronger than steel.
Early fiberglass boats were constructed almost exclusively of polyester resin and glass, and most production line boats are still made that way today.
Polyester is the most widely used and available resin on the market today. It is also the cheapest, and, not surprisingly, it is also the weakest, the most porous, and shrinks more than any other resin. I don't mean to give the impression that polyester resin is so far below the alternatives that it shouldn't be used. If that were the case then this book wouldn't exist. I think it's a testament to the qualities of polyester resin that, fifty years later, the fiberglass portions of the boats we choose to restore are still the strongest element left.
The following excerpt was taken from Wikipedia. If you understand it, please call me and explain it to me using simple words. Typical polyols used are glycols such as ethylene glycol; acids used are phthalic acid and maleic acid. Water, a by-product of esterification reactions, is continuously removed, driving the reaction to completion. The use of unsaturated polyesters and additives such as styrene lowers the viscosity of the resin. The initially liquid resin is converted to a solid by cross linking chains.
This is done by creating free radicals at unsaturated bonds, which propagate in a chain reaction to other unsaturated bonds in adjacent molecules, linking them in the process.
The initial free radicals are induced by adding a compound that easily decomposes into free radicals. This compound is usually and incorrectly known as the catalyst.
Substances used are generally organic peroxides such as benzoyl peroxide. I'm not going to lie to you. I don't know what that means. I've tried to understand it, but the more I try, the more I want to slam my head into a wall until I'm unconscious.
This is one of those things where I don't know what I don't know, and I don't care. This is what I do know. Not all polyester resins are equal. The stuff you buy at the auto parts store is not the same stuff that's intended for use on boats, you will find this to be a recurring theme in this book.
There are two different kinds of polyester resin: Orthophthalic and Isophthalic. If you want to have some fun, go into an auto parts store and ask the guy behind the counter if his polyester resin is orthophthalic or isophthalic. It's up to you to know the difference. Isophthalic resin was used on most boats prior to the 70s. In the 70s and 80s, really the finest time in American History for giving us all forms of polyester, pet rocks, and disco , the move was made to orthophthalic resin.
Not because it was better, but because it was cheaper and easier to use. Ten years later, repairing the blisters caused by the inferior resin became a cottage industry.
It turned out that isophthalic resin was much more solvent resistant. Water, it seems, is an excellent solvent. The water would degrade the resin and penetrate, first the gelcoat, then the layers of glass behind it, resulting in osmotic blisters, colloquially known as boat pox.
Once it was discovered that inferior resin was the culprit, most of the industry shifted back to isophthalic resin. Some went in other directions Today, polyester resin is commonplace. It can be found at local hardware stores, big box stores, marine chandleries, and auto parts stores. Alternative, more costly fibers are S glass, carbon fiber, and Kevlar. Resins used are general purpose, vinyl-ester, and epoxy.
The earliest and most common fiberglass construction was a solid laminate with conventional woven materials and general purpose polyester resins. During these years there was limited knowledge of what laminate thickness should be, resulting in many overbuilt, heavy hulls. Solid construction is still very popular with many production and custom builders, and with the experience and knowledge gained, solid hulls are now not as heavy without sacrificing strength and stiffness.
Primary reasons for the improvements to the solid laminate are more sophisticated materials, resins and methods of construction. Less resin in needed for bi-directional and uni-directional materials. The quality of resins has significantly improved with wide use of vinyl-ester, especially on the outer laminates to better restrict water intrusion. Vacuum bagging and resin infusion are widely used to further improve the glass-to-resin ratio. Over 30 years ago yacht designers and builders started using core materials for hulls in order to reduce the total weight, especially in the topsides.
Cored hulls have become very popular, especially for power boat construction. The most popular core materials are balsa and PVC cross-link foam, including Klegecell, and Divinycell. Another popular foam core is Airex, which is made of PVC but is linear in its chemistry not cross-linked. Core-Cell is another foam core that has become widely used in the past years. It is similar in properties to Airex but is made with different SAN chemistry.
The advantage of using core is the reduction in weight by using thinner laminates on each side of the core.
The reason for the knife cuts is that it allows the sections to be applied to curved surfaces and allows resin to cover the walls of each block resulting in the best bond to the glass fabrics and mat. In addition to weight saving, cored construction has the added advantage of providing hull thermal and sound insulation properties , and significantly reduces the need for multiple longitudinal stringers which are required in the construction of a solid hull.
The quality of the installation of the core is very important to prevent separation between the core and glass materials, and to ensure full resin coverage of the core material including the sides of the blocks.
|
10th Ncert Question Answer Unit 40 Foot Sailboat Manufacturers Online Small Skiff For Sale Qq Bass Boat Trailer Guides View |
01.01.2021 at 22:47:22 Well as discuss it we how to do roughly all to get your vessel.
01.01.2021 at 21:41:36 Speed for the whole plain kind to emanate 3 watertight.
01.01.2021 at 12:32:24 Sink with brass one-design class known as 12ft.