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Here is an model ship building hull planking zeros at demystify model boat hull design and construction. The hull is typically a big part of your model boat building effort, sbip for scratch-building. Once planks are laid or chips carved, it's often difficult to go back and make corrections.

Some of my abandoned efforts also came s a result of snags I'd been unable to see before starting. I'd chalk that up to lack of experience. Hopefully, these notes will help you avoid repeating my mistakes and increase your odds of successfully finishing your hull. I suppose this page can also be helpful in reviewing different types zero kit constructions and the plankinf hull materials used.

In a nutshell, this is meant to be a road-map for anyone curious builidng model plankjng hull design options. Much of this page is a collection of free-floating thoughts, ideas and experience that I've collected over the years. Plqnking they'll help you succeed with your model by laying out different options for boat hull design and construction.

Different types and shapes of model boat hulls are more or less suited for certain types of construction. Sjip, all model boat hulls are made with one of the following methods:. Each can then be further broken down, and in many instances, combined.

Some may say casting is another method to create a model, and I agree that is true to a point. I did not include that as a separate category, since the model ship building hull planking zeros or plugmost likely, has to be created from one of the methods mentioned. A planked hull has a number of bulkheads or frames, and a keel or keelson that form a structure.

This structure is then covered in a "skin", i. Sometime, a hull can be planked using sheets of plywood, balsa, basswood or even paper or card stock. Traditionally woods, such as Mahogany, Balsa and Basswood, model ship building hull planking zeros the most frequently used model ship building hull planking zeros, at least in North America. Some woods are less suitable, generally because they are either too hard or not particularly stable.

For instance, I would not try and carve Buildijg or Hard Maple. American Beech is unsuitable, first zeos it is very hard, and secondly it is not moodel and model ship building hull planking zeros to have a mind of its own warps. All said, there is no reason foam materials could not be used, such as polystyrene or "hard" polyurethane.

These materials are commonly used when making surfboards for instance. One big benefit to a carved method is that there planing very little stress and tension in the structure to contend with during the construction process, as opposed to those in any of the planked methods.

Therefore the need to rigidly hold zegos hull during construction is merely a matter of convenience rather zedos necessity.

For Bread and Butter aka Laminated hulls there is a caveat: Laminating many thinner boards make the job of carving a lot easier, not only physically, but also visually, since there are more joints that help guide you find the true shape of the hull.

Unfortunately, bkilding wood is often more expensive by volume than thicker wood of the same species. Several thin layers require more work in the front-end: many layers are model ship building hull planking zeros of the more expensive material, more transferring from templates and cutting out, more complicated aligning and gluing up.

On the other hand, shaping an intricate hull of modest size with hulk a few boards will no doubt save money, but will be more difficult to shape properly. Another method to consider is a hybrid between a planked and a carved hull method. Typically the lower part under and including the bilge are made up of a solid piece or laminated boards and, the sides are covered with sheets or strips of plywood, styrene, card stock or wood to model ship building hull planking zeros a complete hull.

This method saves material and weight over straight Bread and Butter and is typically faster to build than a regular planked hull. It's relatively common for semi-scale working models where there is more leeway in moel to accurate representation. A model ship building hull planking zeros built approach is especially suited for large warships, cargo ships, tankers and the like, where the sides are flat or near flat.

Often a sheet planked hull is faster to build than one planked with strips. The time saved is two-fold: less bulkheads to cut out and line up and only a couple of strakes of planking.

Most hard chine boats are either small to medium sized motor boats, such as launches, torpedo boats, speedboats or small and modest sized sail boats. However, many modern tugs, commercial fishing boats and work boats have also been designed this way.

This boat hull shi is often suitable for sheet planking which will save a lot of time as stated earlier. Good examples are the Elco PT boats and many moeel and motor torpedo boats by Vosper and. The side and bottom panels on these boats builidng actually scalloped or concave when looking at the original hull sections.

The hull shape, and thus all bulkheads, has to be altered in order to be planked with sheet material. Most builders would agree that for working models especially, simplifying these hull forms to accommodate sheet planking is not a serious offense even to the most hard-nosed scale model aficionados.

A round bilge hull can not be planked with sheets, but has to be either carved or strip planked. A long and narrow hull will be a lot zeors to plank than one that is short and wide. Planking a round-bilge hull with sheet material, the way paper models often are constructed, is by all accounts a compromise. You also see build logs in forums, often scratch-builds, done this way with styrene sheet. In this method the fitted panel span only between two bulkheads, the keelson and to a false deck at waterline for instance.

It seems to buildibg well enough if the model is kept relatively small. The larger the hull, the more noticeable the staggered shape will be. Also, the more bulkheads and closer together, the smoother the result. It is very difficult to get plank strips to form that sharp entry of a full size vessel � it always end up blunt. Naturally, this is not an option if the planking is exposed, but works great for buolding that are painted.

Whenever scale appearance comes second to simplicity, some round bilge hulls can be simplified by converting them to some form of hard chine design.

Large ships for instance, can often be plankong up with balsa or basswood sheet of appropriate dimensions and sanded to take on a more rounded shape. The thicker the planking, the more material will be available to form a rounded bilge and other joints. The benefit model ship building hull planking zeros a multihull over a monohull is that they achieve the same stability as a monohull but with less wave forming resistance, so they go faster with the same driving power.

The most common are:. Multihulled vessels are built for speed and economy. Many sailboats and power boats for racing have this type of hull. Some shi to medium sized passenger ferries have been designed hhull multihulls for speed and economy. Multihulls are generally not considered as seaworthy as monohulls. Hydrofoils and jet skis, along with RC surfboards belong model ship building hull planking zeros the novelties in model ship building hull planking zeros model boat building hobby.

There have been kits and RTRs, but most seem to have come and gone. RC submarines on the other hand have a strong and dedicated following. Return from Boat Hull Design Model Ship Building Hull Planking 016 to Homepage. Copyright Building-Model-Boats. Trademarks belong to their respective owners.

Make point:

Do It Yourself Timber Vessel Building Have we ever wished to take your boat out to suffer your prime mark in inletI am starting to contention pics if you do it. go panking the norfolk store or go browsing. he hold my palm over a next Bending model ship building hull planking zeros rectilinear tubing - vessel pattern forums, basil as well as opposite spices.

These competence be simply separated upon the every day basement with palm magnet or captivating swarf wand.

It is important to let the plank fully dry before gluing it in place. Wood expands when wet, so if you glue it in before it dries, it can shrink and pop loose as it dries. Planking is continued working away from the keel. Planks are soaked in water, then clamped on the hull to dry in the correct shape. The planking continued at the wales and worked up. These planks required some extra work to handle the sharp bend at the bow.

Planking continues from the wales, working up. The planks had to be bent to wrap around this curve. As the planking progressed, this would prove to be the hardest part for me, and my results were not great. The counter at the stern had to be planked so the hull planking could be fitted. As the gap between bands got narrower, I found that I was running out of space at the bow. Planks were getting very narrow.

As a general rule, the planks should never be tapered by more than half their width, and that was now becoming a problem. In the photo below you can see two drop planks. The other, just a couple planks below it, shows the completed drop plank. A drop strake. Note how two planks terminate early and are replaced by one. The final set of drop planks were the last planks installed on the hull. The final plank was carefully sanded by hand since it had to fit the precise gap in the planking.

Even though it is rough, once all the planks are in, the ship takes on a whole new look. It actually looks more like a ship now. As mentioned earlier, the stern gave me a lot of trouble. I had a hard time bending the planks to match the curves. Despite my best effort, this area ended up being a mess.

Not only are the planks poorly fitted, but I had to use CA glue on some to get them secured, which naturally led to getting glue everywhere. The planking at the stern is an absolute mess. My original hope had been to leave the hull planking natural unpainted. I saw this on a build log on Model Ship World, and I thought it looked great.

However, to leave your planking natural, your planking job needs to be pretty good. After seeing the results of my work, I decided that I would not be able to leave the hull natural. I need to paint the hull so that I can clean things up.

Technically, for this model, painting the hull is correct anyway. It is during this second band of planking that wedges and stealers are most likely to be needed as the lower stern section of the keel is covered. Planks should be allowed to largely follow their natural coarse with the gaps being filled in later but bearing in mind that the aim is for the final couple of planks to run nicely parallel to the bottom of the keel.

After tapering your planks it is now time to consider the bending of your planks. The simplest one is the Hand Held�Light Duty plank bender which is very effective. By lightly crimping the plank a very effective curve is produced. By making the crimps closer together a more rounded curve is produced. The Heavy Duty version acts the same way but can be used to bend light metal. The Electric Plank Bender is applied to the plank after soaking it in water for approximately 10 minutes.

Applying the heated head of the plank bender to the wet timber and using a preshaped curved timber jig steam is produced which allows the plank to follow the cure of the jig.

Very effective. Each of these tools are presented in the Tools section of our catalogue. In the case of difficult bends using thicker walnut or mahogany timber, it is sometimes helpful to make up a jig to hold the bend overnight before attempting to fit the plank to the model. Holding planks in place while the glue dries can be quite tricky. While they can be brass nailed, this is usually fairly unsatisfactory. Often the nails supplied in kits are not brass but brass coated, there are nowhere near enough supplied to nail all the planks and to be quite frank, nailed planks often look terrible.

You can make do with 12 but 24 are better and most modellers who start with 12 order another packet. Is more or less a repetition of the same procedure, however before proceeding look critically at your handiwork to date. As a panel beater would, run your fingers over the hull and identify high and low spots. This is your opportunity to correct any shortcomings in the work so far.

As you have a complete surface on which to lay the 2nd planking and not just the frames, you will almost certainly find that the second planking is easier than the first. Ideally, the planks should be cut into mm lengths with the joint staggered so that they are in line only every 3 or 4 planks.

An alternative to laying short lengths of planking is to lay full lengths and score the joints with a knife later. The plywood can be painted black before the deck planks are applied and a slight gap left between them. Leave a slight gap which is later filled with heavy black sewing thread which is first pulled through rigging wax. This is done by marking with a sharp point indentations which are then touched with Indian ink.

The fore deck and the quarter deck are at different heights. The practicum ignores this, and tells you to line the strake up with the bottom of the waterway on the quarter deck. It recommends this because the practicum does not add the scuppers.

It simply omits that detail intentionally. So I need to do a little more work to get things lined up with the decks. This looks like it should allow the strake from the fore deck to run right under it. I guess the first step is to clamp some planks on the hull and test this theory.

That worked. The first planks need to be even with the deck. The fore deck and quarter deck are different heights. But, look at that, the difference is the height of one plank�.

Before I can actually start installing any planking, I need to cut some planks. To make it easier to get consistent sized planks and straight cuts, I made a quick jig to hold the material while I cut it. My jig for uniform plank lengths. Ended up not being used too much, but it did help to ensure straight cuts.

I put the plank on that lines up with the quarter panel, and worked my way aft. Once everything had set, I removed the clamps. Since this line of planks needs to lie flush with the waterway, I needed to do some cleanup. There were some spots to be sanded where the waterway was too high.

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