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Keel Clamp (Home Made) - Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment - Model Ship World� Dec 05, �� Here's a little keel clamp I whipped up for my "Independence" build. The base is 3/4" plywood, and the rest is 1/2" hard maple, but any hardwood would do. I had all the hardware on hand, but if you buy the fancy star knobs etc, the hardware should cost about $ If you use thumbscrews and. Amati Keel Clamp. Amati Keel Clamp. View more products from Amati. such as guidance with the building process of a model kit. Our customer support and service is comprehensive, and we won�t disappear after you have made a purchase. from Revell kits to dolls houses, model boat kits to balsa aircraft. Whatever your age or experience. Use this modeler's vice for every stage of ship model construction, from planking the hull to deck construction and detailing. Fully adjustable rotating aluminium bar, outfitted with two sliding grips, holds the keel or the frames steady while you work. Aluminium bar length cm. Fixing clamps included. Can also be used with A and A/50 as a table gripper Vice.
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7 m). You will get timber vessel woodworking methods for canoes, executive messages, you have been really ardent in regards to a correctness as well as good thing about the models. Trim usually a underside finish right away ?

Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment. What keel clamp is recommended? Reply to this topic Start new topic. Recommended Posts. MarkBseau Posted January 16, Posted January 16, What do you have and like, which are the most versatile, yet not the most expensive. Link to post Share on other sites. JPett Posted January 16, Ahoy Mark Who told you not to bother with the Amati. HSM Posted January 16, HSM, I know - I admit to already having a couple of such tools that were buying mistakes Wondering what people have, how much approx.

Join the conversation You can post now and register later. Reply to this topic Insert image from URL. For further details call our office or visit our website. Please remember the planks are always fitted in pairs, one each side � fix and forget for 24 hours. There are four basic steps to a successful planking job We will deal with these in order then finish with a few suggestions on deck planking.

Using a file, fine rasp or coarse sandpaper on a wooden block, or a combination of all of these, bevel the edges of the frames so that the planks will come in contact with a full thickness of each frame � not just a sharp leading or trailing edge. A piece of broomstick with sandpaper glued to it will make it easier to shape those frames with a hollow curve. Use a plank and lay it over the frames in various positions to check the bevel i.

If you do have a hollow spot on one or more frame s it can be built up using slivers of timber. Check again. When you measure the distance from the deck level to the bottom of the keel, around the outside of one of the midship frames say No. By doing this all planks will arrive at the Keel together. In some cases, it will have its top edge up to 5mm to 10mm below the deck level.

Where this is done it is to facilitate the construction of Bulwarks at a later stage but in any case, it will be parallel to the line of the deck. Quite a few of the models shown in our catalogue fall into this category. Many of the models which feature below deck open gunports require that the first plank follows the line of the gunports and it will run immediately above or below a row of gunports. When you have identified Model Ship Building Keel Clamp Listening the position of the first plank, glue it into position using a PVA glue and without any tapering.

Next, on the three midship frames, mark a position approximately halfway to the keel- the same distance down on each frame and a distance which is a multiple of a plank width. For example - if the planks are say 5mm wide then the distance down the edge of each frame to your pencil mark should be say 55mm or 60mm or 65mm etc. The second pair of planks should now be temporarily attached, using planking screws, at the positions you have marked on the midship frames - but without glue.

Both ends of each plank should now be bent, allowing them to follow their natural course along the frames. Again using planking screws, temporarily attach them to the rest of the frames making fine adjustments if necessary to ensure that each is a mirror image of the other.

Checking the corresponding measurements port and starboard on the first and last frames should show up any errors. There are now four planks in place, two on each side, and these will probably be the only ones which do not require any tapering or shaping. Dealing with the top half first, it will be fairly obvious where tapering will be required. Count the number of planks needed to fill the gap to fill in the gap between first and second planks at midships then measure the distance at each of the other frames.

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