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25.01.2021, admin
Illustrated Custom Boatbuilding. We recommend that you read this hardcover book - Order now and we will pay the postage. You can email us regarding specific boatbuilding questions and we will be pleased to give you a prompt reply. In the meantime Please email me your comments on our site This method of construction can be used to build several of our designs, and boat plans are available based on this technique.
From full size patterns supplied with the boat plans , station frames are marked and cut out of scrap timber and plywood.
Stringer positions are marked and notched. The frames are erected on a prepared strongback and the stringers, keelson and stem are added.
Very little fairing off is necessary as the stringers go in at the correct angle and allow the plywood or veneer strips to be added glued and nailed to the stringers. The plywood or veneer strips are applied diagonally and sometimes vertically and fore and aft as shown in the boat plans. To ensure a good bond between the layers, staples are used to pressurize the glue while this hardens. If silicon bronze or stainless steel Wood Epoxy Boat Construction Noise staples are used they may be left in the hull.
The more I get into this project the more I am admiring your skills as a navel architect. I just realized that the engine can be made to easily be pulled up thru the cockpit floor without damaging the rest of the vessel.
When I attended the Chicago boat show last winter, I did not see that at all on the factory models; in fact the engine compartment was so compact, I pitied the mechanic that had to work on it. Have a Spiffy Day! Diagonal veneers added after strip planking is completed. Interior framing added as per boat plans. Hi Bruce, Just thought we'd update you with the progress of our CS As of today the 30th of May, we're past halfway through planking the first diagonal layer on the hull.
We completed fairing the fore and aft strip planking early last week. We have a small web page up showing progress of course it IS about 3 weeks out of date, but there's a lag Wood Epoxy Boat Construction Material in getting film out of the camera! The operation has been sufficiently successful to enable a second vessel to be ordered from the same builders.
Study boat plans Available. Many Bruce Roberts designs are available for use where this method of construction can be used. Many methods have been tried but this one successfully used by Russ Stevenson works well Building of his Spray 27 in Wood Epoxy The lifelong desire to sail has prompted my present major project, a Spray 27 cutter designed by Bruce Roberts.
This is the second smallest of his Spray series and the larger of the two trailerable ones. A multi-chine plywood design, the cutter can be built with either marconi or gaff rigs and in either pilot house or conventional sailboat configuration.
Luckily, decisions on those two matters need not be made until bulkheads are installed, so I have a while yet to decide. I made two modifications. First, the Sprays have a conventional transom which turns to vertical for the upper one foot. I kept the taper of the transom all the way aft, which will increase cockpit or lazarette space and overall length to about 28'. The shape is more pleasing to my eye. Secondly, I am building the hull with a modified stitch-and-glue or, more accurately, epoxy chine method.
The hull is roughed in and when fibreglasses will be turned over with the temporary frames still supporting it. At that point the Wood Boat Frame Construction Jobs fillets of filled epoxy will be installed inside as the chines. This modification was done with the blessings of Mr.
Roberts himself, incidentally. This ballast box, still empty, was fitted into place and the wooden keel laminated up around it. Then I removed it to be bolted in position later with the hull upright.
I also located an old-but-good Yanmar 8h. A stern view of the hull, now covered with 6 oz. Much sanding and fairing remains before it will be ready for paint. To turn the hull we had, naturally, a party. Then we cranked on the come-alongs until the hull lifted off the form.
We lifted the hull until it went over gently onto the ropes. Then everyone quickly skidded the building form forward out of the way. Then we pushed the hull back onto the concrete building platform and blocked it. Final positioning of the hull was easy, and with this nice old-fashioned straight keel design, the hull ended up dead level with the waterline as shown by the marks on the temporary frames still inside. Emily and I posed in front of our sailboat to be, then she posed me by the stern.
Hopefully it will take us over the waters of Puget Sound and the Sea of Cortez. Watch this space for more on the building of Dan Aadland's Spray Setting up the frames. Here the ballast keel section is being welded Ballast keel in position, then being removed after completing lamination of the wooden sections. Outside ballast keel of five tons. Here the ballast keel section is being welded.
Ballast keel in position, then being removed after completing lamination of the wooden sections. Hull ready for turn-over. Dan and Emily Aadland.
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