Building A Dinghy Mast Key,Used Aluminum Boat Console Zip,Boat Excursion Rovinj Testing,Bass Boat For Sale Tn Documentary - Step 1

11.03.2021, admin
Construction Details for the Conch upper mast. | Masts, Construction, Boat building plans
Aluminium masts. All Seldn dinghy mast sections have been designed to give the best stiffness to weight ratio available in an alloy extrusion. Material, section shape and size, and wall thickness all have a major effect on both the static and dynamic bend characteristics of a tube. These details are studied in the design of every section and are carefully checked on every piece of spar tube we use.� 3. Heat treating and bead peening All masts are heat treated in our purpose-designed oven. This hardening process ensures that you get maximum performance from the tapered section. Our purpose-designed bead peening machine provides a uniform cleaning process and does away with hand cleaning or grinding, further guaranteeing consistency from mast to mast. In the days before inflatable dinghies it was common to have a hard dinghy, to be left on the mooring or hoisted onto the foredeck of your yacht, or atop the main deck forward of the cockpit. Instantly launchable, it would be hard-wearing, characterful and unlikely to let you down. There were many designs. A particularly attractive one was the 7ft 9in Humble Bee, which could be built in marine ply planking for lightness and stiffness and indeed can still be built using available plans. While living in Canada I founded a boatbuilding academy as my night job, where we used plans for various smal. A major part of your cruising life will be spent using your tender. In many areas in the tropics marinas are few and far between, so you will be reliant on a good sturdy dinghy for multiple runs ashore.

Each mast arrived with the t-ball fittings, mast foot pivot pin and PVC pipe used to run electrical wire installed. First task to putting the mast together is to remove the pivot pin and then remove the lower section of the PVC tubing. Once all the running and standing rigging fastener holes are set I will then cut the necessary fastener holes and pass-throughs for the masthead light if ordered. The faster holes for fittings near the masthead.

The bracket in place is for the masthead light. Once all the holes are drilled I now re-install the bottom PVC pipe and run the masthead light wire. This picture is of the masthead light wire at the foot of the mast. Look closely and see the PVC pipe used to run the wire up the mast. With the wire in place I install the strain relief loop.

Masthead light wire at the top of the mast is held with a strain relief loop � in this case a zip tie. Next I install the internal halyards click here to read why the Sage 17 has internal halyards. To assist in this I use a cast-off backstay wire that is lead through the mast. I use this wire to pull the halyard. Works real slick. While running the main halyard I also take care not to get it wrapped around the last few feet, or top of, the wire heading to the masthead light.

An old backstay is run in the mast so make pulling the internal halyards an easy task. An old backstay wire has been pulled through the mast. The halyards installed now I fasten the mast hardware in place. Installing mast hardware with an air powered pop rivet gun. Only a few pieces of mast hardware are installed with machine screws: bolt rope feeder, main halyard cleat, spreader brackets, the upper fastener for the masthead light and the Windex bracket at the top of the masthead fitting.

The BoomKicker hardware owner specified option , gooseneck fitting and bolt rope luff feeder have been installed. Once all the hardware is installed I now compete the wiring for the masthead light. The masthead light and windex fittings have been installed. I install the spreaders onto the spreader brackets and then the shrouds are put in place.

The Sage 17 uses t-ball fittings for the side stays and the forestay. T-balls easily install with a twisting motion and then held in place, when slack, using a Gibb insert.

Spreader is installed onto the spreader bracket. The split backstay with the hardware for the backstay adjuster. At the other end is the diamond plate where the single backstay coming from the masthead is installed. The upper shrouds are installed and held in place with Gibb inserts the black rubber things.

Also pictured is the jib halyard running into the mast. When the upper shrouds are installed I tape the outer end of the spreaders in the color appropriate to each side of the mast: red to port and green to starboard you can see this in the picture below of the completed mast. The mast is now done and ready to be installed on the boat. I will cover installing the mast and turning the rig in another post. The mast is complete and ready to be installed on the boat pictured in background.

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You are commenting using your Facebook account. Notify me of new comments via email. Notify me of new posts via email. Skip to content Home About Sage Marine. Search for:. Fastener holes have been drilled. Fittings installed and halyards in place. Share this: Twitter Email Facebook. Like this: Like Loading Leave a Reply Cancel reply Enter your comment here Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:. Email required Address never made public. Name required. Wrinkleboat Ran-Tan.

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