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Unfortunately I was not able to use the wood I had found in the remodel dumpster for the long pieces but I did use it for the frames and smaller parts. So those 9' boards will go into a future 'ible. I built a simple set of legs for the form out of 2x4's.
I went with a three legged design but I actually should have gone ahead and added the second foot since that side is kinda wobbly. The center frame is actually part of the form and isn't attached to the boat, giving it an open cockpit between the 1 and 3 frames. I notched the stem pieces and attached them to the form with a couple of pieces of ply on each side. Then I trimmed the keel to length and started on the chines. This worked like a charm. By morning it was on the ground. The easy part is over.
Now we start to build a boat. I used Clothesline to pull the chines in so I could mark them and cut the ends to fit against the stem pieces. You do this little bit at a time. You can't just pull them in one at a time or nothing will line up right. So I tied off one end just enough to keep it from spreading while I used the Clothesline to pull the other side in.
After trimming all four ends I loosened everything up and glued it all in place. This part was pretty easy. Just lay your pieces across the frames and make sure everything is even. Then mark where you will notch the frames and cut the notches. Notch the center frame a bit loose so that it doesn't get stuck when you try to pull it off the form. Then mark the angles and cut. Glue and screw to the frames Not the middle frame. And put a couple of screws from the outside into the ends of the BB's.
Then install Clamps pretty much the same way as you did the chines. Don't forget to pre-bend them first. I know it may be confusing but the top outside frame of a wooden boat is called a "clamp" Or a Sheer Clamp. No, it's not see-thru, but the "sheer line" is another name for the continuous line from the transom to the bow.
Or in this case, from the bow to the bow and back to the other bow. This design is called a "Double ender" for reasons that are hopefully more obvious that the reason for calling that frame piece a "sheer clamp". In the process of adding these parts I figured out a neater way to cut the ends. A lot of this is just done by eye, but I found that I could clamp the Clamp sorry to a 2x4 and use it as a lever to hold the piece in place and mark the top and bottom, then connect the lines to get my cut line.
Check the pictures they can show it better than I am doing here. This is where the controversy comes in, "Hey Greg, What kind of plywood did you use? It costs 11 bucks a sheet. I have used it before and I have taken strips of it and soaked them in water for days and they did not de-laminate. In fact you may be able to see a little bench in some of the photos. There are small scraps of this ply on that table that have sat out in the rain for days and haven't de-lam'd So I am quite confident in using it.
Another point that I am sure to hear about, I will not be using epoxy or any fiberglass on this boat either. Believe it or not people built boats before epoxy was invented.
Some that have lasted for decades. I won't go into my reasoning too much here because I 'm sure it will be discussed in the comments section. I am, however using one Modern Miracle. I am gluing it together with 3M , If you have never used it before, let me tell you it's some awesome stuff. When you glue something together with this stuff, fasteners are redundant.
They are only there to hold things in place til the dries. You could also use resorcinol glue but I couldn't find it in my area. I admit I didn't look that hard though. In the first photo you can see where my frame has come apart. This was not the fault of the glue. But I glued the plywood pieces to painted wood. Big No-No. But I just took everything apart and sanded off the paint and glued it back together.
I also added a couple of screws for safety. I moved ahead with marking and cutting the plywood for the bottom without reattaching the sheer clamps to the stem to give the frame some time to set before putting any stress back on it.
I re attached them before I buttoned up for the nite.. The plans said to start the bottom at one end and scarf in a piece at the other end. But I instead centered the piece and added a Duck Boat Gun Box Plans Up small piece at each end. Check the photos for the deets. I decided to start the side planks in the middle, The same way I did the bottom.
Instead of starting at one end and scarfing a piece in at the other, I would be putting a smaller piece at each end on both sides of the boat. I won't have the plywood to do this until I cut the deck pieces and side deck pieces out of the other sheet of ply. So you may see holes in the bows over the next couple of steps. I will use the pieces that I trimmed from the side planks to patch the missing bit at the sheer line.
But with the sides already on, the boat can come off of the form. I need to take the hull off it's form but first I need somewhere to put it. The only cradle I ever build for a boat was for my model sailboat.
It's just a simple folding X with straps across the top that the sailboat sits in. So I though I would try to make something like that, only bigger. I'm not sure I Really needed the dowel but at least I will be able to fold it up when I am done. I also had to erect a shelter from the rain in my backyard. I didn't want to have to pour water out of the now upright boat every morning. Thanks to jaaaaayyyyy and his excellent instructable.
I kept trying to do it my way and it wouldn't work until I finally did it his way and success!! At this point I had planned to install the floor, so I wouldn't be working over the coamings. But I decided to wait until the boat was complete and the inside was primed.
So I worked on the side Knees. This is a part that supports the side decks instead of the middle frame that we took out when moving the boat off of the form. I cut these out of the offcuts from the form itself. I wanted them to be sturdy enough to use as lifting handles for the boat.
The deck beams were pretty straightforward. Cut them to the pattern and notch around the sheer clamps. I used countersunk bolts and finish washers because they dont pull into the wood. Definitely put washers under the nuts. Once the deck frames and side knees are in, and the deck battens are in, we can start on the carlins.
This box has enough room to allow every hunter a seat. By placing seat mounts every 24 inches, there is room for every hunter and by placing the box in the middle of the boat, you can hunt from either side. I also wanted to create some conveniences like two DC power plugs in the back for both spotlights and GPS units and one up front for an additional light when debris gets especially dangerous because of rising water or ice.
I also wanted a place for a grill and cooler. That was no problem as long as you think about it early. The deck provides tons of dry storage for larger items like life jackets and a driver pod was created, and the storage is pretty good. This keeps them out of the way so riders can stay dry and keep their feet free. The Slots also ride lower than a bulk decoys bag so the sight line is still very good. Everything has its place.
I knew what I had to have on the inside and to comfortably handle everything, I knew I needed a good-sized boat. The minimum I could get away with would be an foot by inc model.
Now, it was time to worry because that was a big boat for a 36hp mud motor and I was not willing to live with something underpowered. I worked with Pro-Drive's K. We sharpened the bow to cut rushes, reeds, cattails, and most importantly timber. We created square chines to make it run as shallow as possible and by staying at inches wide, we were able to use a single piece of aluminum and create a seamless bottom. With the rocky rivers I knew I was going to hunt, I wanted to build something tough.
Provost has spent a lifetime building off shore crew boats and understands durability and how to build it. This pattern is not the best timber pattern, nor is it the best marsh pattern, but it's pretty good at all of it.
Here are some numbers for your review. All numbers include the boat loaded with all necessary hunting gear, twelve gallons of gas, battery, etc. With any kind of momentum, the boat runs extremely well in almost no water with soft mud even with the heaviest of loads. The reverse has been used extensively and works very well, especially when you need to get out of something that you thought you could do.
That happens regularly around here. I have not hunted from the boat yet; but have used it extensively about 14 hours learning what it will do and what it won't. I doubt it's the perfect duck boat; but it's definitely better than what I had before. The versatility of being able to use the same boat on rivers, marshes, and timber is something I've never experienced. So far I couldn't be happier. Hunting : Hunting Tips.
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