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17.03.2021, admin
I was inspired to build my own mini boat after seeing a few others, most notably Paul Elkin's 8-foot "Little Miss Sally". Be sure to check it out.
I wanted mine to be a 6-foot boat so that I could say: Neener-neener Paul, my boat is smaller! You can design your own boat referencing this workflow, or you can buy a DIY Kit or Plans from my website. As with most of my projects, I spent more time designing than actually building. Here's what my design workflow looked like for this project:. My concept sketch started on a sticky-note don't they all? That sticky-note sat in front of my desk for a few months as motivation to actually start such a daunting project.
The sketches that followed were drawn with more realistic proportions in order to actually fit myself into the boat. I imported my favorite profile sketch into Solidworks and designed around it.
I simulated the material and water-displacement in order to determine my vessel's center of gravity and center of buoyancy. The relationship between center of gravity, center of buoyancy, and hull shape is critical for determining or estimating in my case boat stability. I wasn't keen on designing an unstable boat, so I began tweaking my design as I went in order to make it more stable. I laser cut a I loaded up the scale model with weights to match.
The scale model floated, but it wasn't quite as stable as I was hoping for. I took what I learned from the scale model and adjusted my CAD model accordingly. I needed to move the center of gravity forward, and I needed to slightly modify the hull-shape. In addition to the custom components that you created or purchased as a DIY Kit you will need to purchase a variety of off-the-shelf components.
Here is a link to the complete Bill of Materials. For the sake of shipping and manufacturing some of the larger plywood pieces are split into multiple pieces. You must therefore epoxy together all of the puzzle joints in order to create the larger pieces of the boat. These puzzle joints end up being just as strong, if not stronger, than the rest of the plywood. So fear not, your puzzle joints are rock-solid. This is where the removable trolling motor will tighten-down onto your boat.
So it will need to be re-enforced as follows. The bulkheads should be air-tight once construction is completed. The foam is just there to ensure that even with a leak, the bulkheads will still displace water. The purpose of the bulkheads is to provide flotation to a flooded boat. You can pack the bulkheads with pool noodles or just leave them empty if you don't want the redundency and professionalism that two-part foam offers.
You just turned a pile of wood into a shape that resembles a boat! Yeah, we built three of them. Ensure the surface is smooth. Sand with grit sandpaper to knock down any imperfections.
It doesn't have to be absolutely perfect since marine paint calls for at least 3 coats. Wipe the surface clean. Denatured alcohol is your friend. Tape the area to be painted. I'm not a fan of blue painters tape, so I tend to use thin green automotive tape anywhere paint will touch tape. I use the blue stuff to block off large areas. Follow the directions on your paint can.
Paint on your first base-coat. Move fairly quickly and in an orderly fashion to ensure newly applied paint always hits wet paint. Sand, clean, and re-paint as many times as desired. Typically marine paint will call for 3 coats minimum. I did 3 coats. Peel off the tape! Prep the surface for varnish by cleaning it and wiping with denatured alcohol. If you painted part of your boat already like I did, you are going to want to tape off the paint to protect it from the varnish.
You only want the varnish going over epoxy, not paint. And you don't want paint going over varnish, so if you plan on painting your boat tape off that paint area. Follow the directions on your varnish can! It is absolutely critical that you stir the varnish thoroughly before and during use. If you don't, then you run the risk of applying varnish that will never cure ask me how I know.
And not all varnishes are created equal. I tested two and put the better one in the bill of materials. Apply your varnish with a brush to all surfaces that will be exposed to the sun. I found that using the cheap disposable brushes was fine if your application technique is adequate. I would avoid applying it to any surface that is not exposed to the sun. I had issues with it not curing fully when I put it where the sun don't shine.
The varnish I link to in the bill of materials allows for a wicked-fast application process than allows you to knock-out all varnish coats in a single day. Varnish your steering drum while you are finishing up.
Review the schematic. Wire the motor. Its never a good idea to use smaller wire than stock, and this motor comes with 10 AWG wire, so I would suggest sticking with that, and even transitioning to 8 AWG wire for the wire harness inside the boat. Connect the motor wires to the trailer hitch connector.
I didn't need to solder directly to this connector, I was able to tin the wires then file 'em down to fit inside the holes. If you strip a bolt, or can't get the wires to fit, then I wouldn't hesitate to just solder direct.
Create your Dead Man's Switch. Use a proper Dean's Connector, which is rated for something like 60 amps, which is fine for the trolling motor which calls for peak current of 40 amps. Begin creating the wiring harness. You will want to measure, perhaps with a string, and cut your wires accordingly. Drill your own volt-meter and light-switch holes in the dash if you plan on having those features.
I would suggest clamping on a sacrificial piece of wood to reduce the change of splintering the back side. Install the light. Use a gasket. Install the main wiring harness you created. I ran the wires through a large diameter tube and hot-glued the ends in an attempt to waterproof them. It's not necessary though, you could just run cable-ties every 6 inches. Wire in the fuse. It should be as close to the battery terminal connection as possible. I mounted mine up under the deck where the trailer connector is located see pic.
Connect the wires to the in-dash motor controller reference wiring diagram. Cable-tie the wiring harness out of the way.
Alternatively, you could drill a hole in the further wooden piece to run the wires through that. Try and coat the edges of any hole you drill with epoxy 5-minute epoxy is fine in an attempt to maintain waterproofing of the wood. The wiring harness should look clean and tidy if you did a good job with cable-management.
Install the seat. Make sure to clean the floor of the boat to ensure the peel-n-stick adhesive on the hook-and-loop tape will stick. I would suggest doing a test-fit before adhering to the boat. I installed my seat such that in the fully open position, it was just barely touching the wood behind it.
I had read that these seats do not like a lot of weight reclining on them, so I think it is a good idea to have it butt up against the wood support as I did. Mark the perfect location so that you can place it there again with adhesive. You will not get a second shot at this, and the industrial grade hook-and-loop is pretty much a permanent mounting solution. Run the rope. It is critical that you run the rope as pictured.
If you deviate from this, then you will either limit your steering ability, or have backwards steering. I keep trying to contact you regarding the mini boat but your site doesn't recognize my email magnum.
Question 2 years ago.
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