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Commercial use requires explicit permission of the authors. Frank is our resident expert on HMS Hood. Make sure that you check out his website at HMSHood. Yes, that Larry Bond. Creator of the Harpoon gaming system. Rajen is a fellow escapee from Bell Labs. We started the list over pizza and root beer while we were still both employed there. Rajen has become busy with business and family in recent years as of so he hasn't been doing much ship modelling lately.
A good fellow, though. Rod is another "good guy" who has helped me in numerous ways. His modelling tastes seem to be ecclectic, like my own, and he has reviewed a wide variety of kits. Tom Dougherty is our resident submarine guru.
When I have a sub question, I go to him. He's simply amazing. Michael is a net. He is a pragmatic modeller, and quite fond of scratchbuilding and conversions. Make sure you check out his web page at www. Gernot is another early contributor to the list. He knows IJN subjects extremely well. He has high standards , and from the pictures I've seen on the net, he produces excellent work. Graeme is a newcomer to the list as of late , but he's no newcomer to the world of ship modeling.
He's a professional. Bill is our resident expert on US Coast Guard subjects, and also very well versed on the subject of sailing ships. Peter is another helpful fellow. Jodie Peeler never fails to impress. Her knowledge of liners and aircraft carriers especially Essex class is truly amazing, but don't think she's limited to just those. If that weren't enough, she's also a fan of turbine cars and airliners.
Allan was one of my first ship modelling friends on the internet. We virutally met back in the early s on the newsgroup rec. He was one of the first contributors to this list, and still gets a few words in now and then. Joe Poutre is a good friend, a fellow New Jerseyan, and my co-conspirator on numerous projects. I have watched his modelling skills steadily improve, and he's probably better than me by now. He shares my sense of the bizzare, and it's always fun making up "hypothetical" ships with him.
Tim Reynaga has been an enourmous help. His knowledge goes back many decades, and he knows things about obscure old manufacturers that I never would have found. He also seems to have a taste for really small scale ships. Brooks has been enormously helpful to us in researching old kits from long-gone manufacturers. His tastes are often similar to my own. Leif is another early contributor to the list. He gave us his list of Airfix kits, and this became the basis for our Airfix section.
Matt Stein started writing reviews for the List in He started a resin casting business, Matt Stein Models in July All of his reviews were written prior to that date. Floridian Bill Swan is a newcomer as of , but he provided an incredible number of resin ship kit reviews for Version 6.
He has impressed me with his knowledge of Steel era and WW1 era battleships. I might have a few differences of opinion with him on the waterline vs. I really want to see his "team of trained spiders"! Doug is another newcomer as of My advice is to buy Skywave armament sets to replace the often 's era kit parts, and use aftermarket PE sets for the particular type of ship to get an overall increase in quality without waiting for someone to retool the kit.
Saves much trouble. I consider necessary to produce a good kit. The first two digits identify the company, and the issue batch among other things. Recently, new series numbers have been give, advertised on the box top as "NO. Where there is a new series, it is noted. Gernot has a point, I do tend to build out of the box, and I usually only fix gross, obvious errors.
I prefer to modify the plastic parts from the kit than to scratchbuild or add PEB. I admit that there is a point, though, beyond which kit parts aren't worth fixing, and parts substitution becomes more practical. My main area of interest is the Kreigsmarine and I am knowledgeable of modern warships having served 21 years in the United States Navy and retired as a Master Chief Petty Officer. I had heard rumors that Academy had obtained the Tamiya molds for the Bismarck. After picking up the kit, I feel comfortable assuring anyone that this is not the case.
I do wish though, that I could have had access to a Tamiya kit to make the comparison up close. The first thing you will notice about the box are the words "Static Model" in the lower left corner of the box lid -- more on this later, and the fact that the box art is rather poorly done. On to the inside! The kit's deck is molded in three sections. The middle section is designed to be removed for access to the battery box and electric motor mounts.
That, apparently, is why the words static model show up on the lid. The multi piece deck leaves two very distinct seems running from beam to beam on the model. Filling and sanding them will destroy some of the deck planking, represented by raised detail. The larger cable reels are molded separately from the deck, while the smaller ones are part of the deck, as is the anchor chain.
The anchor chain looks to be too small for what it is supposed to represent. The Arado seaplane's struts are molded in one piece, similar to the float-equipped British Spitfire, and the Iron Cross insignia are molded into the wings, ala Aurora. The catapult is simply a blank plastic strip, with no detail on it at all. The flag sheet is frankly, pathetic. The swastika on the battle flag looks like a pinwheel; an aftermarket flag is a must here.
The remainder of the kit appears to be well done. Comparing some of the brass parts to the plastic ones in the kit left me with the impression that Academy did a pretty good job on the majority of this model.
Of particular note are the photoetched radar antenna and the struts and props for the Arado. They make a real difference. This will be my first experience with photoetch detail of this magnitude, and it looks like it will really compliment the model. First of all, the kits for Bismarck and Tirpitz are the same and both resemble rather Tirpitz than Bismarck.
Box pictures show Bismarck in baltic camouflage in both cases. The drawing on Tirpitz box is signed "N. Sataku" or "N. The kit is motorized with one electric motor which is fed by one AA battery. Machinery supplied with the kit looks fine. There is the only shaft and the only rudder. Shaft holder grease is supplied with the kit as well as the cement.
Hull consists of two parts - underwater red plastic and everything else grey. So, you may build waterline model if you like. Belt transition into forecastle and stern is somehow coarse.
One could try and fix both issues it with careful cutting and sanding. Deck plancking and details are ok except wavebreakers which are too bold. Carefull cutting may be of use here. Anchor racks are missing anchors are molded right on the deck level which requires gentle fixing. Material thickness in the bow part of a hull is hopefully enough to apply cutting and deeping in the right place.
Bow anchor rake and bow anchor itself are missing, yet bow anchor chain is molded on the deck. Same regarding aft.
There are no torpedo tubes supplied or molded. No floatplanes are supplied as well. Catapult details are poor. Turrets are of slightly strange shape but still resemble the real ones. Model has one major feature which may be considered as a big disadvantage or as real fun. Indeed, second port 5. Instead, room is made for motor switch which comes as a gear leaning out of the hull right in place of turrets mentioned.
No wonder that the assembly instructions show the model viewed from starboard, not from the port! Carefull tweaking and applying extra turrets of proper scale may fix the problem.
One might configure motor switch leaning through the funnel. I plan to abandon the switch at all, and to circuit the battery to the motor directly. I should take care for proper balancing the model in this case and to compensate the switch absence. That is just an idea anyway. AS , Review dated 25 May Editor's Notes: See Nimitz-class.
Said to have been issued around Editor's Note: I have not built this kit, or even seen it out of the box, but from the dimensions and the photo on the box, it looks suspiciously like the Monogram kit with a different stand. This kit has been issued at various times as:.
Editor's Notes: May be related to the Minicraft Spruance kit. Editor's Note: May be related to the Minicraft Ticonderoga kit. Editor's Note: Presumably, this is a close relative of the Academy Bismarck kit. Issued in Happily, this is not the case. An entirely original effort, this Titanic is a much better model, cleanly molded and easy to assemble. While I'm no Titanic expert, the kit's proportions are convincing and the completed model looks like the great ship. Academy's Titanic seems to have been designed with younger or more casual modelers in mind.
The complex structures of the original are broken down into relatively few assemblies so that the model can be built up quickly. Nevertheless, the large amount of attractive molded on detail keeps it from looking too toylike. The crisp, precise moldings were a pleasure to handle with no flash, sink marks, or visible ejector pin marks anywhere. The parts are molded in black, white and tan plastic with components broken down so that one could build a nice looking Titanic model without painting it.
Decks are in tan, for example, and the white strip along the forecastle above the ship's name is a separate part molded in white to be attached to the black hull. The result is basic but effective. This clever pre-coloring of parts is actually a return to the very roots of plastic ship modeling, like Revell's Taney and Eastwind kits from the early s.
Another nod to less experienced modelers although useful for all of us! As a more experienced modeler I was less than thrilled with the simplified assemblies which in places look a bit chunky, and the prominent hull plating, though dramatic, is overdone for the scale. Much could be improved with the application of photoetch, but the simplified molded in details and that plating mean that creating an accurate scale model from this kit would require a significant amount of work.
Perhaps the best way to experience this model is to take it as Academy's designers aparently intended it: as an attractive, easy to build alternative to their magnificent but challenging! The box art isn't bad at all but it quickly goes down hill from there. I cannot and would not recommend this kit to anyone! This is another example of a company that has not properly researched the ship, submarine, that they have put on the market. This kit is nothing more than a "toy" that needs assemblyrather than a scale model.
On the side of thebox it has this statement:. As a "static display model", it fails miserably because of the lack of attention to simple detail in all areas - hull, deck, and conning tower.
The only way that this kit should be built as a static display model is in a waterline configuration. Even as a waterline model it will require extensive work to get it even close to what a Type IXB should look like.
I am not even sure that it would be worth the man-hours. Include the motor, add batteries and give it to a 5 year old. Paint optional. Kit rates a "blech". Originally issued by Adams circa It was also issued by Airfix beginning in and most recently in Airfix's revised full hull version by Heller in the s.
Note: one of the weirder ships of the 20th century. Armed like a battlecruiser with 15 inch guns and armored like a light cruiser she was officially classified as a large light cruiser. This bizarre vessel saw light service in WW1 and was eventually converted into an aircraft carrier and was sunk by the Germans in the opening days of WW2.
Interestingly, her main battery turrets removed for the conversion to an aircraft carrier wound up being installed on the last battleship of the Royal Navy, HMS Vanguard which was finished after the end of WW2. This model depicts the ship in her battlecruiser large light cruise guise. Admiralty also has released the sister ship to Courageous, HMS Glorious in a later fit that includes aircraft flying off platforms but not yet as a full fledged aircraft carrier which she too was converted into.
Kit Parts: this is a very large resin kit that includes photo etch, brass rod, plastic rod, metal chain and decals for flags.
The massive one piece hull and lower superstructure is simply gorgeous and packed with detail. I'm basically speechless in trying to describe the quality of the casting in this kit. It isn't just flawless and highly detailed, it is incredible. You cannot buy a better kit in ANY medium than this kit. It is complete and needs nothing else to create a stunning ship model. What else can I say? Directions:: Multipage, highly detailed, expertly drawn, line drawings, exploded views and color plates are some of the best directions that you can ever have.
In addition to assembly and painting directions text in English, colors called out in White Ensign Models Colourcoats , there are also clear and concise rigging directions. Among the best directions in the industry. Packaging: huge, heavy cardboard box with a unique twist.
My kit was packed with an inner box that was actually a clear plastic display case! All parts bubble wrapped in plastic bags with foam peanuts in all the voids. Admiralty is a newcomer to the resin ship maker's club but they are far and away one of the best in the business.
The kit depicts the vessel in with flying off platforms on both turrets. The ship was at best a white elephant for the RN in this configuration but an interesting subject for the modeler. Glorious began the conversion to an aircraft carrier in and served as such in WW2. She was sunk by Scharnhorst and Gneisenau. This kit is without a doubt one of the finest resin kits ever produced. The only negative, a minor one at that, is dealing with the scores of incredibly tiny detail parts in both resin and photo etch.
This will require a steady hand and a good bit of skill. Directions: Brilliant, multi-page drawings and text that are among the very best in the business. Packaging: Heavy cardboard box decorated with a color illustration of the ship.
The hull is bubble wrapped and carefully taped. All other parts are bagged and taped in place to reduce movement. Everything is then surrounded in foam peanuts. The Advent kit has Revell copyright on sprues and also on the instruction sheet. Editor's Note: Reissue of the Revell Buckley. Editor's Note: Apparently, the same as Revell's Eastwind kit, though some have suggested that the kit is incorrect for the Burton Island. Editor's Note: Reissue of the Revell Ward.
Editor's Note: Reissue of the Revell Eagle. Editor's Note: Reissue of the Revell Enterprise. Thanks to Rob Theriaque for finding the information on this kit. Editor's Note: Reissue of the Revell Intrepid. Editor's Note: Reissue of the Revell Montrose. Issued circa Editor's Note: Reissue of the Revell Olympia.
Editor's Note: Reissue of the Revell Ranger. The kit consists of parts including 72 in grey styrene plastic, 1 in red plastic, 31 etched brass, 7 in clear for the sub's seaplane, plus decals for both the boat and airplane. Parts are perfectly molded with sharp detail and no flash. The model goes together conventionally, with the two piece hull split at the waterline with a separate underwater hull molded in red. Fit throughout is excellent, and the entire sub can be assembled in just a few minutes.
Even if one were to open up all those hundreds of drain vents along the hull sides, the interior detail could scarcely be seen. Similarly with the delicate ribbing detail on the inside of the aircraft hangar; nice, but ultimately invisible. Other unusual design features include a moveable deck gun, rudders, and aft dive planes as well as an aircraft crane and antenna tower that can be retracted into the deck. Of only limited appeal to most modelers, these little gimmicks are at least accomplished with no detriment to scale appearance.
Other innovations are more useful. The forward dive planes, for example, are provided as separate parts to depict them as either deployed or retracted. Although it would have been a simple matter to cut the extended hydroplanes and push them inside the hull to show them retracted, the use of a dedicated part for this is a simple, effective construction time saver. A finely done photoetched bass fret provides railing, small cranes, aircraft components and other parts that could not be done nearly as well by injection molding although many of these parts are also alternatively included in plastic.
These provide an added finesse to the model, leaving little, if any, need for aftermarket photoetch. Good as these extras are, it is the extraordinary quality of the basic kit itself that makes it stand out. Starting with solid dimensional accuracy, precise molding and ease of construction, this kit just gets better and better. The level of detail on the parts is amazing, among the best I have ever seen. The hatches on the main deck, for example, are perfectly molded and even have microscopic handwheels relief-molded on to them.
The periscopes, combined with the shears as a single part, are unbelievably fine with all the distinctive details on the periscope heads cast in scale. The guns, binocular mounts, rangefinder and other small fittings are uniformly excellent. The Yokosuka E14Y "Glen" floatplane is a tiny sixteen-part kit in itself with its own decals and photoetch. It even includes two miniscule incendiary bombs with correct shape and fin detail.
If I were to offer any criticisms of the kit at all they would be minor ones: the open sides on the conning tower at about 1mm close to 14 scale inches are too thick, and the solid molded bridge windows might have been provided as a photoetched part. The decal hinomaru "meatballs" for the aircraft are slightly off register, and markings are provided only for the I, although there were 29 of the type B-1 Otsu-gata submarines, some of them well known.
These really are nitpicks, though. The big Japanese companies had better watch out, because the Chinese are on the move! Nice detail, no sink holes. While I have never seen a Skywave Knox-can, this kit sure looks like a Skywave mold. Bilge keels will have to be scratchbuilt for this conversion.
I don't think this is a Skywave derivative; there are multiple differences in parts. Plus, they include a correct SH-2 helo, which Skywave doesn't even produce, even in those ships that are supposed to carry it.
This is the same kit as the DML. Good kit that builds very well right from the box. Some minor fit issues but no worse than the average plastic kit. Props are a little crude but can be made nice with a little sanding.
Sinkmarks on the two turrets need minor filling. Good instructions and decent decals. Just build it clean and apply a light wash and you'll have a fine little model.
AER Colectie Srl. Evidently produced by the same Soviet model kit design team sometime during the Cold War, each of the subs is a separate injection molded plastic kit. The kits build into full hull models ranging from five to seven and a half inches in length. Though not of the highest quality, these old Soviet-era model kits are very inexpensive and generally accurate. Editor's Note: Reissue of the Revell Boston.
Editor's Note: Reissue of the Revell Hope. The model was one of Revell's very first nautical releases, dating originally from The model depicts a Higgins 78 foot PT, definitely not a Vosper as some have thought. It is a very old kit, but parts fit and details are fairly good. The full hull is a single piece molding. Designed during Revell's infamous "flat bottom boats" era, this kit actually has a nicely rendered hull with an accurate chine, perhaps to aid operation one version issued in the s came with a motor.
The deck and deckhouse come molded as a single unit, with other details either separate small parts or molded directly to the deck. Some of the surface detail looks good, but the dinghy is molded to the forecastle as is a coiled mooring line-not very convincing in this relatively large scale.
Weapons are ok. Torpedoes and 20mm Oerlikons are separate pieces, but the latter have gunner figures cast directly to them, which is a real problem if you don't want to include figures!
Actually, the most notable aspect of the kit is those three very nicely sculpted crew figures. A very innovative feature for the time, they were created by master sculptor Anthony D.
Bulone, best known as the sculptor of the original Mattel Barbie doll. Not one of Revell's best, it is still an attractive, simple kit good for a quick, fun build. Airfix was founded in as a toy company. Their first model ship was apparently the Golden Hind, first produced in the early s. Airfix was purchased by Humbrol parent company of Heller in They did, however re-issue some of their older ships kits. By August , the company fell into grave financial problems again.
In November , Airfix was sold to model train manufacturer Hornby, who announced their intention to move production to China. Prices are usually reasonable. A few of their early battleship models, Iron Duke and Warspite have an odd problem with their main guns. They have flared tips, like the flash suppressors on some AA guns. These flares should not be there, and they should be sanded down so that the barrels taper normally.
All warships are made in light gray plastic. All passenger ships are made in white plastic except QE 2 which is made in a very light grey plastic. These kits are from the 's. These are some of the oldest and most primitive Airfix kits. The first five Golden Hind, Santa Maria, Shannon, Victory, Cutty Sark of them seems to have existed in two variants, an early waterline model with a "modelled sea" base and a later full-hull model with cradle, the last three were all full models with cradle.
Several of these have been re-released lately as "Special Editions". No of parts: 71; Guns elevate: yes; Decals for Amazon, Active and Arrow included; 1 helicopter included. Detail is medium, Appearance: good. Needs some slight mods at the stern, but otherwise, the hull is nice. Series 4, ; No of parts: ; Guns elevate: no; Detail is medium; Appearance: good.
My second kit bought a few years ago was in slightly worse shape than my first, but still recommended. This ship makes a presentable model built OOB. Options include placement of antenna cranes and aircraft elevators. Details are decent. Carley floats are separate parts, 4. Aircraft are Swordfish and Fulmers, wings of which appear a bit thick. Could use some better painting instructions, but research is part of the fun. Series 2, first issued in This series set the standard for injection molded "wargame scale" models back in the s, and the Ark Royal is among the best of them.
The model consists of 42 medium gray plastic parts, all cleanly molded with almost no flash. The above water hullform is accurate with the distinctive knuckle forward and large flight deck overhang aft credibly depicted. There aren't any decals, but six very nice Fairy Fulmars are provided. One of the things I had liked about that larger version was the open boat decks molded as separate parts fixed to the inside of the hull.
I also liked the open sides on the anchor and quarter decks fore and aft which created a realistic see-through effect. Not only that, they managed effectively to engineer the whole thing as a clip-together! Very cool. The control island comes as a nine part assembly. Throughout the model surface detailing is discreet yet effective.
On the flight deck the lifts, arrestor gear, and a barrier are represented as subtly raised detail, and the forward catapults are recessed. The dozens of portholes on the hull sides are represented by tiny raised discs with dimpled centers. I would have preferred holes, but at least the disks are consistent and sharp.
They actually look pretty good once painted. Liferafts and anchors are molded directly to the hull sides, but they are well done and are convincing in this small scale. The eight separately molded 4. The smaller weapons are molded directly to the galleries; fortunately the six 2 pounder pom-pom mounts and eight. They look quite good. The four rangefinders, molded with their mounts as separate pieces, are first-rate. Similarly with the other small details; the boat cranes and antennas, although molded solid, have delicate raised detail suggesting their lattice structures.
If only Airfix had chosen to include some Swordfish as well Airfix released only a few of them before abandoning the scale in the early s, but they remain among the finest ships that company ever produced.
The Ark Royal is a first-rate little model-if you can find one, build it! A real winner. It is very detailed, and it builds up very nicely except for one piece of the forward superstructure. This kit also makes an excellent source of parts for other British cruisers. It can be kitbashed with an Airfix Tiger to make various Colony class cruisers, or you can cut it down a bit to make earlier City class cruisers.
Buy it if you can find it. An excellent model. Sadly they left the water line out so you will have do some extra work when masking for painting. Otherwise it competes with Repulse as Airfix's best ship model. This kit is the best I have seen from Airfix. The details are more crisply molded than in any of the many Airfix ship kits I have built. The kit represents the ship as she appeared in WWII, not in the modernized appearance she now has as a museum ship.
I painted my model to show the ship as she would have appeared at the time of her best known action, the Battle of North Cape. This kit has nice detail on turrets, cranes and air intakes. It includes two Walrus aircraft, one on the catapult and one with wings folded, protruding from the hanger.
Use of PE will emphasize the overall quality of molded detail on this model. This is a real challenge for the one who wants to correct details. The armour belt is too low, the water line is too low, all decks are wrongly shaped, the deck details are missing.
Still a quite impressive kit when you are a kid and don't care about such details. Series 2, The boxtop says the model is intended to " The 50 gray plastic parts assemble into a basic but good looking little battleship.
The waterlined hull is a single part with a solid bottom and separate single-piece main deck, so there are none Model Ship Building Keel Clamp List of those annoying mid-deck seams so common on larger scale kits. This is good since the raised deck planking is amazingly delicate; in fact it is some of the best I've seen in any scale.
Assorted deck hardware is also well done with bitts, hatches, vents, and other details sharply depicted. Unfortunately, the model doesn't quite capture the graceful yet solid lines of the original.
Also, the armor belt is too low and the prominent portholes are missing. Worse, the funnel, superstructures and turrets aft are placed too far back. This problem isn't too noticeable until you get to the fantail, which is about 20 scale feet too short.
As one might expect in a clip-together kit designed for wargaming, the superstructure is simplified and lacking in detail. The distinctive spherical hoods of the 4m type SL-8 antiaircraft directors are molded integrally with the superstructure, represented as rounded tops on the mounts rather than as spherical shapes.
Not very good. Also, the aft mounts shouldn't have the hoods at all unless you intend to build the model as the Tirpitz. The two-part funnel is hollow with an open grating nicely represented on the top.
Main turrets are ok, except that the barrels are about 6 scale feet too long and the rangefinder hoods extend too far down the sides-but they are fixable. The mm secondary turrets have simplified shapes and the barrels are also too long, but they're useable too. Smaller parts vary in quality from fair to excellent. The The best parts are the ship's boats, 37mm, and mm antiaircraft guns.
Too bad Airfix hasn't reissued it since the s! Appearence destroyed by clumsy davits. The tiny details are too heavy. Series 5, pre; No of parts: 86; Decals included. Participated in the Falkland war. A typical Airfix liner, comparable to the quality of the Queen Elizabeth and possibly a bit better. Fit is fine to me, although stacking all those decks can be an adventure!
Nice kit. This kit represents the liner in her as-built appearance, with First-Class game deck open. Ship soon had this deck opening covered over and short extentions added to the twin funnels.
Major item that needed changing on kit was mast structure, which was a little undersized and oversimplified. Will still make a nice-looking model built OOB. Great decal sheet with deck markings and nice bow herald.
The first Airfix ship. First kits had a special base cradle, later kits had standard base cradles. I seem to recall that the hull is several scale feet too shallow keel to deck. Brooks , comment dated 20 February Actually, my measurements say quite the opposite. It's several feet too deep. I compared the kit to some Admiralty drawings on one of my reference books. The kit measures about. The drawings suggest that it should be about. I think there were some fitting problems with this model.
A bit "plastic". Guide to detailing in Airfix magazine April Someone on Internet informed that the superstructure was incorrectly positioned, I have not checked that myself. With a little work, it can be accurate. According to legend, the forward superstructure should be pushed slightly more forward.
The Sea Slug isn't that good, but it would be hard to do better. A photoetch Sea Slug launcher is called for, but I don't really expect to ever see one. Up until recently,I didn't realize how bad the Sea Cat launchers were. I didn't even recognize them as Sea Cat launchers! The superstructure, deck and armaments are acceptable for an early war boat. There are some problems, but they can be fixed. For example, the vastly oversized depth charge racks should be discarded.
The hull, however, is incorrect in profile and cross section. Most obviously, it is missing the pronounced bow knuckle that was a feature of all but the early experimental boats. There are other problems of proportion and shape that will become immediately evident upon comparison to technical drawings. If you use the hull directly from the kit, your model will not show off the sleek lines that made the Schnellboot an elegant and powerful small combatant. I wonder why they didn't include the Fearless?
Series 3, ; 2 helicopters, 2 landing craft included; No of parts: ; Guns elevate: no; Decals included. A slightly uneven model, in some places the details are really great, in some just ok but you won't be disappointed if you buy this kit. Pretty nice. It even has decent detail in the landing craft as well. The Sea Cat launchers aren't that great, but otherwise OK. I wonder why they never issued this kit with the decals for Intrepid Send in the Royal Marines! This ship, made famous in Operation Corporate, was one of the more fun to build models in my collection.
The ship has a well deck in the stern that can accomodate landing barges. Normally dry, this well can be flooded and a stern gate lowered to launch these craft. In addition to this, there is a large flightdeck just aft of the superstructure with five helispots.
This can be used by either helicopters or Harrier fighters, giving the ship the capability of a small aircraft carrier. The ship is further armed with two single 40mm guns on the bridge wings, and short-range AA missles. A friend of mine served on the USS Nashville, and seeing my model under construction, opined that it was very close to his old ship in layout. Quality of detail on this model is inconsistent. The landing barges are pretty good, the two helicopters are so-so, and the 40mm guns are pretty poorly modeled.
Overall, it makes a nice model, especially when some PE railings are added. Guide to detailing in Airfix magazine Sep Can be built as a waterline model. This is a good kit. The hull above water is made of starboard and port parts with a flat bottom. Two pins extruding from the bottom can either be cut off or put into holes in the separate underwater part.
The flightdeck is in one giant part. Everything fits together wonderfully well. Minor error: the aircraft decals are for but, the funnel is of the rectangular post type. Building mine was a Model Ship Building Catalogs Income dream. The kit includes transparent parts for swimming pool roof and sports roof. To me, a large disappointment. Due to some error in design the front gun turret had not even room to turn. The kit is quite detailed but somehow it just don't look like the other Airfix kits and for example the masts are the thickest found in an Airfix kit.
This model was a disappointment to me. I felt that the Aurora kit was basically better overall because most of its flaws could be corrected easilier. This is not the case with the Airfix model. First off while the main turrets are very well shaped and detailed they are a little too small and there still is not enough room for them to turn. Unlike the Aurora kit, you can't simply replace them with two from a Revell Scharnhorst or Gneisenau because as mentioned there isn't even enough room.
I also was extremely disappointed with the single 5. I expected the same level of detail as the mounts on the Narvik DD , which are beautiful. Same goes for the 4. They are a little better, but again, not as good at similar mounts in the Airfix Prinz Eugen. I do not know if the 4. The superstructure was very detailed but the armored tower seemed too short.
None of the range finders seemed right compared to pictures I have studied. I do not believe they could be replaced with parts salvaged from other models due to size difference. Overall, I believe the engraved detail in very good but the layout out and scale problems however lower the overall quality. The smaller Testors Graf Spee is a far better kit, if not the best.
RDF , review dated 10 April It's a sound kit but it needs a lot of work to be perfect, the hawse pipes and breakwater needs to be completely rebuilt and lots of derrick and deck details need to be added but I can assure you that the end result is worth all the work.
Kit Background : This is the oldest injection-moulded plastic model of Hood. Since its release in , it has been periodically reissued a number of times. The kit contains pieces and is a full-hull representation of Hood as she appeared in the mid s. It suffers from a lack of detail and from large, bulky features. As for the quality of he moulding, it is generally crisp, with a small amount of flash.
No sink holes were noted, but a few ejector marks were present. Hull: Correct in overall shape, taper and shear, with the exception of the torpedo bulges. These are present, but do not correctly conform to the true shape of the ship's bulges. The hull also lacks an armour belt. Another odd feature are the open torpedo mantlets. Fortunately, most of these problems can be fixed with a combination of plastic strip stock, putty and a good deal of sanding. The deck planking is far too wide for the scale.
The deck machinery and features ventilators, capstans, winches, hatches are all moulded into the deck and are somewhat bulky for the scale. On the other hand, some items which were prominent on the real ship are not-so-prominent here. One such example is the forward break water. Another deck planking problem is the forward Shelter Deck- on this model, there are planks. On the real ship, however, this area was painted metal. Superstructure: Mostly accurate in general shape and layout.
There are a few notable errors: Both funnels are completely missing their base structures. They have venting around them, but are missing the small rectangular structures that the funnels were situated upon. Another problem area are the batteries situated on each side of the ship.
These areas are completely lacking in detail and accuracy. This can be corrected, but it will take a lot of work. Masts: Very thick and bulky. The starfish platforms are poorly done. These can be replaced with ultra-detailed photo-etch starfish by White Ensign Models.
Other: Boats are largely accurate. They could be a bit more detailed though. The same applies to the various rangefinders and sighting devices. These are mostly correct, but all are somewhat lacking in detail. One major problem to note here are the kit's painting instructions. Complete rubbish. Hood never had green bridge decks. Please be sure to throw them away and use our detailed Hood painting instructions instead. Summary: A good kit for its day , but it looks its age. Fortunately, it can be built-up into a good respresentation of Hood with some aftermarket parts and a good deal of scratchbuilding.
This kit can be found in man stores, or ordered from any of several online model retailers. It is also available directly from the Airfix website. I have a fair amount of sympathy for this kit, since it was the first kit that won me a prize in a model contest, many ages ago. It represents the Hood somewhere between and The hull is quite nice, but the bilge keels are missing.
The level of detail is pretty decent for its day. The planking on the deck was pretty impressive for its time. The main turrets aren't too bad, but they need a bit of reshaping at the front.
I don't like the way the lower parts of the superstructure are implemented. The bulkheads are attached to the deck. This can make both the deck and the bulkheads difficult to paint. Overall, I'd say it is pretty good for its age, and it can be fixed up pretty easily. If built OOB, this kit will represent Hood as pre refit. Ship still has its 4. A little extra effort goes a long way on this model.
Addition of side platforms on X turret, extra detailing on primary and secondary turrets are easy to add. Addition of PE a big help as always, but model will still look good with detailing and rigging.
Series 2, issued in The boxtop says the models are intended to " Happily, this was not the case! The kit consists two sprues containing 64 well molded grey plastic parts depicting the ship as she appeared at the time of her loss in May The model, though measuring a mere eight and one half inches in length, is accurately proportioned and packed with detail.
The hull, waterlined with a solid bottom, is correct in overall shape, taper and shear. The single-piece main deck is provided as a separate piece.
Detail on the deck is excellent, including a multitude of hatches, bitts, vents, breakwaters, petite ground tackle, and some amazingly delicate deck planking. The raised planking is especially notable, some of the finest I've seen in any scale. However, there is an odd discrepancy with the inclusion of torpedo lookout and searchlight platforms on the foremast. Although the fit of the model is correct for the Battle of the Denmark Strait, both these platforms had been removed before Thus the model is incorrect as is, although you could still use them if you make a few modifications to depict the ship earlier in her career.
Another inaccuracy is the shelter deck , depicted as a straight line rather than with the angular notches the structure actually had. This can be easily fixed, though. Armament is mixed. Main turrets are good, except that the barrels look too thin; I replaced them with hypodermic needles. The four inch twins are simplified shapes and the barrels are also too long, but they're useable.
The 8-barrelled 2pdr pom-poms and UP projectors are very good, but the 0. Other parts vary in quality from good to excellent; masts and cranes are proportional and accurate, and the fire control directors are first-rate. Given the perennial popularity of the Hood in all scales, it is surprising that Airfix never reissued it Detail: medium - Appearance: good.
Was clearly the best Airfix ship when it appeared. Lots of very small parts.
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