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Many of the models which feature below deck open gunports require that the first plank follows the line of the gunports and it will run immediately above or below a row of gunports.
When you have identified the position of the first plank, glue it into position using a PVA glue and without any tapering.
Next, on the three midship frames, mark a position approximately halfway to the keel- the same distance down on each frame and a distance which is a multiple of a plank width. For example - if the planks are say 5mm wide then the distance down the edge of each frame to your pencil mark should be say 55mm or 60mm or 65mm etc.
The second pair of planks should now be temporarily attached, using planking screws, at the positions you have marked on the midship frames - but without glue. Both ends of each plank should now be bent, allowing them to follow their natural course along the frames. Again using planking screws, temporarily attach them to the rest of the frames making fine adjustments if necessary to ensure that each is a mirror image of the other. Checking the corresponding measurements port and starboard on the first and last frames should show up any errors.
There are now four planks in place, two on each side, and these will probably be the only ones which do not require any tapering or shaping. Dealing with the top half first, it will be fairly obvious where tapering will be required. Count the number of planks needed to fill the gap to fill in the gap between first and second planks at midships then measure the distance at each of the other frames.
These distances divided by the number of planks gives you the width of each plank at each frame. Once these widths are pencilled onto the plank the cutting of the taper can be carried out. Make several light strokes to set the course followed by a heavier one to make the cut. Alternatively, use a Mini Plane to plane the plank to the marked line. Use a Cutting Mat or plywood board to protect the surface you are using to cut the planks.
It is usual to carry out tapering on the lower edge of each plank and it may sometimes, although not usually , be necessary to carry out some bevelling on the upper edge of some planks. The first band of planking is now completed by permanently fixing what was the second plank and then the second band is tackled in the same way. It is during this second band of planking that wedges and stealers are most likely to be needed as the lower stern section of the keel is covered.
Planks should be allowed to largely follow their natural coarse with the gaps being filled in later but bearing in mind that the aim is for the final couple of planks to run nicely parallel to the bottom of the keel. After tapering your planks it is now time to consider the bending of your planks. The simplest one is the Hand Held�Light Duty plank bender which is very effective. By lightly crimping the plank a very effective curve is produced. By making the crimps closer together a more rounded curve is produced.
The Heavy Duty version acts the same way but can be used to bend light metal. The Electric Plank Bender is applied to the plank after soaking it in water for approximately 10 minutes. Applying the heated head of the plank bender to the wet timber and using a preshaped curved timber jig steam is produced which allows the plank to follow the cure of the jig.
Very effective. Each of these tools are presented in the Tools section of our catalogue. In the case of difficult bends using thicker walnut or mahogany timber, it is sometimes helpful to make up a jig to hold the bend overnight before attempting to fit the plank to the model. Holding planks in place while the glue dries can be quite tricky. While they can be brass nailed, this is usually fairly unsatisfactory. Often the nails supplied in kits are not brass but brass coated, there are nowhere near enough supplied to nail all the planks and to be quite frank, nailed planks often look terrible.
You can make do with 12 but 24 are better and most modellers who start with 12 order another packet. Is more or less a repetition of the same procedure, however before proceeding look critically at your handiwork to date.
As a panel beater would, run your fingers over the hull and identify high and low spots. This is your opportunity to correct any shortcomings in the work so far. As you have a complete surface on which to lay the 2nd planking and not just the frames, you will almost certainly find that the second planking is easier than the first. Just got mine - 10 days transit! But it was intact with no damage UPS Assembling it now I would add that a sanding block of some sort should be added to the list of tools required- the knife cleans the parts ok but the nubs need to be sanded flush Old habits die hard with me as I carved away those nubs with a scalpel.
I haven't gotten the level and square out You'll notice the strips under the keel I think it will hold fine with the clamps Seriously considering one of these. Now that some of you guys have been using this for a while,what do you think of them and are they worth the money.
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Only 75 emoji are allowed. Display as a link instead. Clear editor. Upload or insert images from URL. If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild NRG is just right for you. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build.
The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site www. Traders and Dealers Reply to this topic Start new topic. Prev 1 2 Next Page 1 of 2. Recommended Posts. James H Posted July 17, Posted July 17, All you will need to assemble the Professional Building Slip is: Wood glue Craft knife Clamps Instructions are provided on a single sheet of paper, along with an amendment slip stating the use for some included nails.
Now glue the feet. Here are some photos showing its use. Link to post Share on other sites. Jasseji Posted July 17, Keith Black , Canute and mtaylor Like Loading Canute , mtaylor , thibaultron and 1 other Like Loading AndrewNaylor Posted July 19, Posted July 19, Now that is a good looking well made very useful tool.
Tigerdvr Posted July 20, Posted July 20, I've even used some the parts independent of the base. Cheers, Harley. James H Posted July 21, Posted July 21, Canute , mtaylor , Keith Black and 1 other Like Loading Tigerdvr Posted July 22, Posted July 22, Canute , Keith Black , thibaultron and 1 other Like Loading Posted January 5, edited.
James H Posted January 5, Posted January 5, JJT Posted January 5, Canute , Keith Black , thibaultron and 2 others Like Loading Posted January 6, Great stuff! Gregory Posted January 6, Posted January 6, edited. Solved my problem. Edited January 6, by Gregory. Cheers Chris. Posted January 8, edited. Keith Black , mtaylor , Canute and 2 others Like Loading JJT Posted January 12, Posted January 12, Keith Black , thibaultron , Canute and 1 other Like Loading Osmosis Posted January 23, Posted January 23, edited.
Edited January 23, by Osmosis. JJT Posted January 23, Posted January 23, Canute , thibaultron and mtaylor Like Loading Dsmith Posted January 23, Posted January 31, Remember that these parts will bend as you tighten them, but for me, I would prefer to mostly use thin strips of packing if the keel and bulkheads are significantly thinner than the clamps, as this will remove most of the stress " Just finished assembly.
Canute , mtaylor , James H and 2 others Like Loading Cazpert Posted January 31, Thanks to your presentation I have perfectly mounted the support It is a very good job thanks again. Justin P. Posted February 1, Posted February 1, edited.
LyleK1 Posted February 23, Posted February 23, I just finished assembling mine! Keith Black , thibaultron and mtaylor Like Loading James H Posted March 10, Posted March 10, Keith Black , thibaultron , mtaylor and 1 other Like Loading LyleK1 Posted July 21, Just started on the Bounty with my slip Trying to find the best way to set up for the laying of the bulkheads shown dry fitting. Sure looks like it. So far, I like it but need to learn how to use it! Posted November 24, Looks like it will be a nice model how is your progress on the build?
Keith Black , mtaylor and Canute Like Loading DaveBaxt Posted January Posted January Canute , mtaylor and Keith Black Like Loading Join the conversation You can post now and register later. Reply to this topic Insert image from URL.
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