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Model Ship Building ideas | model ship building, model ships, model boats It can be a difficult process to build a realistic scale model ship using wood. Each wood plank placed onto the ship�s hull must be carefully bent into shape, following the curves of the ship that are created by the ship�s ribs. Bending wood for model ships requires preparation. Once wood has been sufficiently bent, you can glue the planks into place with confidence, knowing that each properly prepared wood plank . builder to successfully overcome what is sometimes a difficult part of the model building process. 2 1. Keels: Figure1: This drawing shows the basic false keels of a plank on bulkhead (POB) ships. These are the most common types of false keels that come with kits. The upper one is a typical. Feb 10, �� I also bought from Model Expo an electric plank bender. Between the wet plank and the heat from the iron using the shaping jig that comes with the bender it makes for fairly quick and accurate bending of the planking. Hope that is a help to some of the .
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That moisture content has to be throughout the stock, not just on the outside. For the scientifically inclined, decent bending stock should have a moisture content of between twelve and twenty percent of water by weight. Air-dried stock stored at room temperature in average humidity should have suitable moisture content. Wood with a sufficient moisture content will be more "plastic," or bendable. If wood doesn't have sufficient moisture content, it can be steamed or soaked in boiling water to increase its moisture content which takes time and heat it.

The steam or boiling water is often more effective in transferring heat to the stock than in increasing overall moisture content, though. Steaming or soaking is often necessary for larger pieces, but much less so for small stuff used in modeling.

Generally speaking, you don't have to soak your planking material to bend it and have it stay put. All that usually needs be done is heat it through and through and hold it in position until it cools sufficiently to lose enough of its plasticity that it "sets.

In most every instance, it's about the heat , not the moisture. So, you should try to do your bending with dry heat, some sort of a heating iron or in the microwave, before getting involved in the complication and mess of steam and hot water. Use a clothing iron, a curling iron, or one of the commercial electric "plank benders. When planking, do as Chuck Passaro says in some of his great build logs: first spile the plank accurately cut it to a flat shape that will fit when bent.

You can read up on spiling in the "planking' instructions in the forum resources section. After you have the plank shaped, it should be bent to fit first before fastening it at all.

The goal is to have a perfectly cut and bent plank that fits right where you want it. Some trimming may be required, or some further tweaking with the bending iron, but a properly cut and bent plank should be easily glued and fastened in place. You should not have to be trying to bend one end to fit while the other is already fastened.

A pre-formed plank will also be much easier to clamp in place while the glue dries. Trying to counteract the spring of an unbent plank with a glue bond is a poor practice that often promises sprung planks down the road. A heat source is a matter of personal preferance. I prefer my old Aeropicola plank bender pictured below. It has a "French curve" shaped heated head that permits bending a fair curve to whatever shape one wants. These two features, which I haven't seen on any of the other "plank benders" on the market, put it head and shoulders about the competition.

Unfortunately, they are no longer made, but do come up on fleaBay occasionally. With decent bending stock and sufficient heat, bending shouldn't be anything to intimidate the modelers starting out.

It actually is rather satisfying work. Bending wood is the difference between "carpentry" and "boatbuilding! Thanks all for the hints and the tips. You convinced me to buy a plank bender. The one of Aeropicola is not available at least in Germany. Does anybody has ever tested the one shown in the picture?

I have the model craft plank bender but find it only successful if you first soak the plank. I use it to shape the plank and dry it out at the same time. It has never worked when using un soaked planks and has the tendency to scorch it if you persist. It would be lovely to be able to spil the planks to get the right shape but unfortunately not really feasible with the timber strips provided in a kit as too narrow to start with.

Buying timber in the uk, even if you only want to upgrade, is not easy and far too expensive for my budget. Hi, I have noticed that you live in Germany but the plank bender you have shown is V. Just check before you buy as I assume you are V in Germany. Thanks for all the replies. Regarding the voltage problem, we have V in Germany. The one shown is 33 Euro.

I ordered it. However, I am already facing the problem that the planks I am working with have to be bended in two directions. I will problably start with a longer test perid when the bender has been arrived.

I have the Aeropiccola, but I have never really known how to use it. Do I use a form, or just apply the iron and bend by hand? Use it however it works for you. The "bail" is for slipping the strip of wood under to hold it while the bend it made over the curved face of the iron. You can slip the plank through the bail and bend in increments progressively to get whatever degree of curve you want. The bail can also be moved to the other hole so you can pick a gentle curve or a sharper one.

The iron can also be held in a vise and the plank bent over the iron while it's held in two hands at either end. This is a good way to work twist into a plank. Yes, and hold it in the position in which you want it to stay until it cools enough to stay there by itself. There will likely be some "springback," which may or may not require further "over-bending. Does bending with a hot iron improve on that? Yes, assuming average moisture content for the wood at ambient humidity levels e..

It's the heat that relaxes the lignin in the wood, making it less rigid and "woody. In many ways, it is like heating and bending a piece of plastic. Lignin is actually a cross-linked phenolic polymer. Steaming wood is only necessary for larger pieces as a method of heating the wood through and through. Steam is a good conductor of heat that won't burn the outside of the wood piece.

The same is true of boiling water. In neither case does the steam or boiling water contribute to making the wood flexible, really. It's all about the heat conveyed by the steam or boiling water. This is not to be confused with the "moisture content" of the wood.

That affects the ability of heat to be transmitted throughout the piece. The average moisture content of a piece of wood of the size used in modeling will permit dry heat to travel through the piece sufficiently well for bending purposes. If you are building a real boat with 1" X 2" frames, you have to steam them for an hour to get the heat sufficiently distributed throughout the piece to bend the frame effectively.

Steam is used only because it's the easiest way to generate heat and transfer it to a larger piece of wood in a "steam box, " which may be accomplished as simply as putting the length of wood in a stove pipe with a hose from a "kettle" and rags stuffed into either end.

Experimenting with a microwave oven may also be productive, but the drawback there is that the microwave heats the whole piece, so handling it can become difficult without heat-resistant gloves. The wood has to be too hot to hold without heat-protection when properly bending it. The use of a bending iron permits the application of the heat to be localized so one can hold onto the piece and only apply heat where it is needed.

Remember the similarity to bending heated plastic: the heat and the bending have to be done together. The wood is only plastic when and for so long as it remains sufficiently heated. As it cools, it will quickly become stiff again. Often, the bend must be held in place while it cools so the bend will "set" when it cools off.

I have used a soldering iron type of plank bender and a compact hairdryer for plank shaping in my builds. I have had my iron type for nearly 20 years of reliable service. Attached the can to my work bench. Soaked the planks for 10 minutes in a tall jar. I then clamped the other end at that point. Finally used the hair dryer to completely dry the plank. The can also heats up and drys the opposite side.

I also use the electric iron to twist bend the planks for the stern runs. Wet the planks, clamp to bulkhead at the start of the run,heat and form to shape required. You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account. Paste as plain text instead. Only 75 emoji are allowed.

Display as a link instead. Clear editor. Upload or insert images from URL. If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild NRG is just right for you. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build.

The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site www. Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck. Plank Bender Reply to this topic Start new topic. Prev 1 2 Next Page 1 of 2. Recommended Posts. Posted April 3, Plank Bender, yes?

Link to post Share on other sites. Sea Hoss Posted April 3, Install the app. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. How do you bend your hull planks? Thread starter likenew Start date Aug 25, Watchers 9.

Joined Aug 21, Messages Points Planking the hull has to be the hardest part of the wood ship model building experience, at least it is for me anyway. What I have found that makes it a bit easier for me anyway is to soak them first as you all probably knew already but what do you soak them in? I went to the local Ace store and bought a wall paper trough. It measures 33" long and about 5" wide which gives enough room to soak and entire plank. I also bought from Model Expo an electric plank bender.

Between the wet plank and the heat from the iron using the shaping jig that comes with the bender it makes for fairly quick and accurate bending of the planking. Hope that is a help to some of the newer members of the ship building community. Remember the most important thing is to have fun with it. Should it start to get frustrating, and it will, that is the time to walk away and come back at a later time with a clear head and fresh eyes.

Donnie Administrator Staff member. Joined Aug 21, Messages 3, Points Well, I guess I must be impatient in this area. I turn on the water in the sink very hot and hold the section of the Plank that I want to bend.

I have found this to give almost immediate results. I need to buy one of those hot planking benders, but I am finished with the Planking now! Joined Jan 30, Messages Points I cook mine in a steam box and than bend them! Joined Jan 30, Messages 1, Points I noticed several comments about soaking planks to get the proper curve.

This is a lengthy process and streches the molucles to make the bend. Thus, creating a weaker plank. Amati came out with a heated plank bending iron. By using direct heat, the molecules are realigned to fit the curve desired. No weak spots. After learning how to use the heating tool, you can make bends very fast and check how they fit and apply them as soon as they are correct. Prior to heating, I use the Panart hull holder to taper the planks. The plank on the front of my paddlewheeler that goes around the bow was 2 mm thick and 6 mm wide plywood.

Very hard to bend this without one of the ply layers seperating. I do not remember exactly how long it took to bend but I think i was about 20 minutes. Lots of checking and adjusting to get an even turn. Thinner planks bend a lot faster and limewood is almost instantly bent using this method. Very carefully! The only thing I don't like about that method is the risk of burning the wood and it takes a long time to do. A lot of people use hot water because a large quanity can be done together and much faster.

It's all a matter of choice. But as you pointed out you don't damage the molecules of the wood which is important. Thanks for the info it's something to consider. How do you feel about using a steam box? When they make real boats they have to steam the wood in a steam box and than make a jig to form the proper curve and keep it there.

In ship modeling we have the option of using a plank bender instead. A lot to think about. I wonder how the master model builders do it? The iron does not burn the wood unless you leave it there for a length of time. It is designed to heat. When the wood starts to flex, take the iron away.

I use a method of moving over the wood a little past the length of the bend. Thus, giving it a means of warming the the entire area. Use a few pieces of scape wood to get the technique down. Once it is warm, remove the iron but hold the piece in your hand at the desire shape until it cools. The thicker the wood, the more you want to use the back and forth method to distribute the heat and not over heat the same spot. You can bend it and let it cool and then bend it again.

The one on the paddlewheeler I slightly bent it a few times before getting to the proper bend. Steam is better than just soaking in hot water, but it is still using water to soften the wood. Since the wood that ships were made of were very thick, there was no way they could use heat to penetrate wood that is two feet thick without it caughting fire first. In older times, some master modelers use ammonia or rubbing alcohol mixtures.

I never tried that since I lived in an apartment when this method was popular and using it in apartment would have made me unpopular. I learned one trick you have to let the wood dry for the same amount of time you soak it to prevent damaging the wood. See example at Model Expo's Constitution under documents and look under planking and see the ways a master exsplains planking the hull for more.

I agree with GaryM if you are careful you can use the wood burning tool. But around here electricity is very exspensive and would cost a small fortune to use. I found a hot water Tea pot works great for soaking the wood in hot steamy water. But the trick is to let it dry so the wood does not loose it's molecular structure. I have worked with some old Island boat carpenters repairing hulls. They use a tubular shaped box made of wood to put the wood into and put a pipe in the end and force steam from a steamer into the box.

We bent 4" thick Oak about 12' long and made ribs from oak trees we found in the forest here. It was amazing how easy the wood bent , And ribs have to be bent very drastically. In short time we repaired a wooden fishing boat about 45 feet long. Using nothing but steam to bend the wood. Although I know some master model makers use alchol like GaryM said. My father had used a wood bending machine and burnt his hands and the wood often maybe they are better today than in 's.

For me I like GaryM's way he makes a lot of sense. But for others They will find using a steamer is the way to go and others will just soak them in water. So I just think each person needs to decide for them selves which is better for them.

Since there are many ways to bend wood , :laughing-rofl: who knows as long as we get the wood bent and it doesn't break. The iron is a heating tool. It never gets hot enough to ignite the wood.

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