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Yet this city on stilts, whose residents live under the constant threat of eviction, has much to teach. Tue 23 Feb We have stopped by the Floating School , a two-storey solar-powered wooden structure that floats on the Lagos lagoon on a bed of plastic barrels. I ask him to explain what he means. The dredgers, he explains, descend a wooden ladder into the depths of the lagoon, armed with only a bucket and the will to live.
The depths to which they go mean total submersion. Then they have to climb out with a sand-laden bucket that will be emptied on to the floor of a boat. Everyone who flies into Lagos to do business on the Islands is likely to find themselves passing over the Third Mainland Bridge.
For a city keen to re-create itself as forward-looking, Makoko is a dismal advertisement, and the government knows this. Five days later, according to the Social and Economic Action Rights Centre Serac, a legal advocacy group for underprivileged Nigerian communities threatened with forced evictions , the assault escalated: the demolition workers set fire to targeted structures and deployed armed police The Largest Fishing Boat In The World We who allegedly fired gunshots indiscriminately.
One resident was killed, shaming the demolition workers into suspending their efforts. By then, 30, people had been rendered homeless.
An estimated 2, people enter Lagos every day, many ending up in informal settlements like Makoko. It was founded as a fishing village in the late 19 th century, by immigrants from the Egun ethnic group. As its population swelled and land ran out, they moved on to the water.
But both sides are united by the water, upon which they depend for livelihood, as well as the Yoruba language, which serves as a lingua franca in a settlement where multiple languages are spoken: French, English, Yoruba and Egun. Wooden shacks stand on stilts, as boats named Bejamin, Gbenon Nu or Ahude glide across the still water.
Amid the evening rush-hour traffic on the bridge, Makoko basks in the dull orange light of the setting sun, a soothingly familiar presence. Close-up, though, it throbs with the kind of energy that marks Lagos out and has made it a darling of urban theorists. Makoko shares with Lagos the exceptional situational inventiveness that makes the entire city tick. Take the matter of clean drinking water: criss-crossing the lagoon bed are pipes, paid for and laid by enterprising residents to bring in clean water � for a modest fee � from boreholes in neighbouring Sogunro.
The population estimates vary widely, from 40, to as much as , Presiding over various parts of the waterfront are local chiefs, known as Baales. His territory contains the only two primary schools: Whanyinna Nursery and Primary School, founded in by his younger brother Noah; and the floating school, which has generated more positive buzz for Makoko than any other thing in recent years.
On the ground floor are two sections: one his living quarters, the other a Baptist church that he gifted to a missionary friend. The Baale wants to know why we are visiting. His voice carries a hint of guardedness, which is not surprising to me. Some of the wariness is also self-protective: the community has had to face up to government officials displeased by the embarrassment they believe photographs from Makoko attract.
This embarassment is what spurs demolitions like the one in In the last few years, Lagos state has seen several. More than 15, people have lost their homes. There was a strong push back against the demolition. Two months later, a Serac housing affiliate known as the Urban Spaces Innovation began work on a regeneration plan for Makoko. Not everyone is a fan of slum redevelopment or plans for regeneration. Neuwirth bristles at the idea of deliberately transforming slums into models of urban development.
Without a doubt, they still have problems. But they are stabilising themselves and, over time, knitting themselves into the fabric of their cities.
This is a true marvel of global urbanism. In the absence of antenatal care, childbirth is also a major challenge. Residents, however, hint of an immunity to epidemic. No epidemic here.
Go and check the hospitals. There are none. Doctors Without Borders opened a floating clinic in January ; although very popular when it launched, it stayed open less than a year. Today Makoko continues to be served by a network of informal, unregistered clinics that attend to basic ailments.
Oshodi tells me of an ongoing plan, led by Arctic Infrastructure, an engineering company he founded, to build a healthcare centre with support from the government of Switzerland. Lagos is starved of land, but has no shortage of property developers; were Makoko to sink or be crushed , in its place would rise apartment blocks and villas priced out of the reach of all but the wealthiest Lagosians.
Second is that the government will stop obsessing with demolition and focus instead on providing the infrastructure that citizens expect of their administrators � hospitals, schools, electricity � and allow Makoko to develop in its own way and at its own pace, as Neuwirth recommends. Third is a middle road of sorts: the implementation of the regeneration plan, a collaborative compromise between residents, civil society groups and government.
Nine months ago a new governor, Akinwunmi Ambode, took office in Lagos. The home building industry. The boat building industry.
The businesses that bring clay and laterite for landfill. Whatever the politicians and developers might think of it, Makoko is a real community, built by the families that live there. It is valuable to them � and to the city as a whole. Follow Guardian Cities on Twitter and Facebook and join the discussion. Guardian Lagos week. Yet this city on stilts, whose residents live under the constant threat of eviction, has much to teach by Tolu Ogunlesi.
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