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The virtual option is taught via Zoom. Sponsored by:. Back by popular demand, the Portage Pram�the boat you can build in your living room!
The Portage Pram is the swiss army knife of dinghies. Taking advantage of a precision cut kit and the use of stitch and glue building technique, the participant can build this boat quickly and easily with just a few tools and little to no prior experience. Joel will walk you through every step of the build, and by the end of the class students will have a boat that is ready for finish.
The kit includes all the materials needed to build the boat. For the pram builders who are looking to sail, we are offering this course as a one-day extension to the Portage Pram Workshop. This offers the student a full tutorial that will walk them through the process of converting the Portage Pram into a fine sailing vessel. The class will be a comprehensive overview of how to install the daggerboard trunk, mast step, assemble foil kits, install rigging, and install hardware.
The price of the class includes the foil kit package and will be included with the Portage Pram kit upon registration. Fiberglass Cloth, Fasteners, and hardware pack. Please note: The class does not include the cost of the sail rig and hardware.
Those will need to be purchased separately through Duckworks. There are no other SUP boards in the world that are easier for a first-time boatbuilder, or better-looking. The Kaholos are okoume marine plywood, stitched-and-glued together and sheathed in fiberglass and epoxy, with a grid of bulkheads and stiffeners inside to make the boards stiff and light.
Kits include premium nonskid deck pads, cut to shape, breather tubes, and custom laminated skegs. Working with surfing and paddleboard guru Larry Froley of Gray Whale Trading in California, they created two beautiful hollow wooden boards with the rare quality of being fast enough to race but stable enough for first-timers.
Tracking is great and a fine bow with kayak-derived shaping lifts the Kaholo and 14 up and over waves. The tail shape and twin fins facilitate surfing on long swells once your skills build up to that. This class has a 3-student minimum. Then you need this boat! Through this 9-day class you will build this fast, shapely wherry that is intended for serious sliding-seat rowers who are looking for open-water ability and enough payload for camp-cruising.
Designer John C. Harris, who has been designing, building, and enjoying sliding seat boats for 27 years, spent a lot of time tinkering with the hull lines to find the best compromise between speed, payload, and stability. An optional Elvstrom-type bailer can dispose of any water that gathers there.
There are four separate watertight compartments, all accessible through hatches for gear storage. The official max payload is pounds. Thus, a pound oarsman could carry the equivalent of three infantry-sized backpacks worth of camping gear. Of course, the lighter you pack, the faster the boat goes. The standard flush deck hatches are large enough for tents, sleeping bags, and kitchen sinks of modest size.
Stitch-and-glue sea kayak design has grown up a lot in the last fifteen years, driven by enthusiastic paddlers who prefer ultralight, beautiful boats that handle like extensions of themselves. The Shearwater design abounds in interesting and innovative features. To emphasize the clean lines, the decks are computer cut from sapele plywood, a beautiful mahogany with a reddish-brown swirling grain, to contrast with the honey-colored okoume sides and bottoms.
Flush hatches are standard. The finger joints eliminate the alignment step required of scarf joints, so parts are quicker to assemble and impossible to misalign. This means faster assembly and no measuring for bulkhead locations, as those holes are drilled, too.
Steel is usually sold in quantity by weight. Simply use this figure times the cost of steel per pound in your area to arrive at a reasonable estimate for hull material costs. Aluminum is also a superb material for boatbuilding by the person qualified in aluminum welding. Aluminum boats using welded marine alloy construction are strong, lightweight, durable, and easy to maintain.
As with steel, the designs should be specifically intended for this material. Plans listed for aluminum construction include all the details necessary to build the boat in sheet aluminum. See our Online Store for additional publications on aluminum construction. Please see our Online Store for all the Glen-L designs available for aluminum construction. The following can be used as a general guideline for selecting materials. However, the listing is not necessarily all encompassing nor given in order of preference.
To figure hull cost, use weight of hull times cost per pound. For further information on welding, see WeldingTipsandTricks. The number of people with aluminum welding skills and access to fabricating equipment has increased considerably over the years. Yet many are unaware of fundamental considerations confronting the short-handed amateur building a single boat for his own account. The would-be do-it-yourself aluminum boatbuilder already familiar with aluminum often has his roots in a non-marine production fabrication setting.
Thus there may be a tendency to want to apply mass-production techniques to the construction of just a single boat. But building a single boat yourself is considerably different from one built on a production line, and thus may require certain adjustments and even a revised mind set on the part of the builder. First, there is no one, superior way to build an aluminum boat. In fact, there can be many suitable approaches and variations.
Consider the following. Because production builders are always thinking up ways to cut labor and material costs, and time required to build boats, they evolve specialized methods and materials that help toward these ends even if there is not necessarily any improvement in the boat itself. For example, they may use special proprietary extrusions to expedite some assembly process such as joining side and bottom plating at the chine see Fig.
Alternately, your chines might then be backed with a simple round bar Fig. None of these methods is necessarily superior, but just different due to circumstances. Also, production builders often make up sophisticated re-usable production jigs over which pre-cut hull panels are assembled and welded first.
These jigs may also rotate to facilitate high-speed welding, with internal members added after the hull is removed from the jig. In either case, end results are much the same and with comparable boat quality.
Using a frame substructure for setting up your hull has several advantages for the do-it-yourselfer typically working alone. First the frame substructure makes it easy to assure hull accuracy that is so important to ultimate performance in a powerboat.
Factory production boatbuilders often use specialized forming equipment not always available to amateurs, or use forming services that might be provided by metal suppliers when quantity requirements are high. Conversely, a design for the do-it-yourself builder would more likely specify internal longitudinal stiffeners i. Either method gets the job done but the latter is easier and cheaper for most building their own boats.
First, a disclaimer. But in reality few do-it-yourselfers want to pay the price for the service. But steel is considerably heavier than aluminum, so boats designed for steel are usually designed for greater displacement. The consequences for a semi- or full-planing powerboat might be so much the better since the lighter aluminum boat will need less power and fuel.
But in converting slower displacement-type powerboats from steel to aluminum, you might need to add ballast into such a boat done in aluminum to bring it back down to its original lines. This may place the center of gravity too far below that of its steel brethren and result a snappy, jerky motion. So instead, you may want to place some of the added weight higher up.
Aluminum is not as strong as steel so some compensations must be made if using it in place of steel. Without getting too technical, with aluminum used for shell plating e. Put another way, to get the same strength as steel in an aluminum hull, it needs to be approximately half the weight of steel. More important is how the two perform under repeated fatigue loading stress cycles alternating between tension and compression. Tests show that for a similar number of cycles, steel stays above its yield strength threshold.
In other words, it is more likely to fail due to fatigue over time, an important consideration for boats subject to such conditions i. But by how much? Converting from steel to aluminum is fairly straight-forward mainly because the members used are much the same in configuration and the methods of design and construction are similar. And while there are standards-making organizations e. Consider plating thickness.
On the steel boat, this is more often based on the practical minimum necessary to ward off corrosion over time, provide decent welds, and a thickness adequate to minimize unsightly deformation. Thus 10GA. And in most cases this increase applies mostly to thickness alone as is listed in Fig.
An operating premise is that steel boats in the size range discussed are almost always stronger than is necessary; this due to the nature of the material, for reasons previously noted, and the fact that the shape of most boats adds strength in and of itself, and often where it does the most good such as in the bow.
So using the example, 10GA. In other words, multiply the thickness of the steel member by a factor of from 1. Tip: Start with 1. The point is, many alternatives can be used to build an aluminum boat with largely the same results in terms of strength, durability, etc. In the above and referring to Fig. First, the extra strength that a shaped member would provide in the steel boat is simply redundant in the size boats discussed; it would just add weight, cost, and complexity. Second, shaped members add to the difficulties of inspection, maintenance, and corrosion protection in the steel boat; for example, the ability to see and coat the underside flanges is difficult, especially when such members are small.
However, in the aluminum boat in Fig. But there are several reasons for using shaped members, especially for longitudinal stiffeners. First, such members are stronger.
Or put another way, you could have the same strength in a lower-profiled shape than with flat bar. And the added strength in the aluminum boat is a plus. Another benefit might be more usable interior volume. They tend not to be so floppy, and bend more uniformly than flat bar. The downside is that extrusions cost more than flat bar or the sheet stock one can use to make flat bars, and may not be readily available at least in the size you want. If working from stock plans for an aluminum boat, the designer probably specified certain sizes, types, and alloys of members for framing, etc.
But deviations may be possible. Most designs have some latitude in alternates that can be substituted. Channels can be made from split square or rectangular tubing, or even split pipe if somewhat larger than the specified channel.
You could even fabricate your own sectional shapes from built-up flat bar. Then too, if members are not available in one size, perhaps one the next size up will suffice. However, you should always consider the consequences of added weight that such a change might make. Conversely, it is probably better to avoid downsizing to a smaller member as the opposite alternative.
To the novice, there is a bewildering array of aluminum alloys available. But for the welded aluminum boat, the choices narrow down to the so-called marine alloys in the and series, the latter typically Aluminum Boat Building Supplies Company being extrusions. Yet even within these series there are still many alternatives. But the most common, readily available, and suitable for welded boat hulls include: H32 H34 H H32 H H However, the designer may have already taken this into consideration if is specified.
Corrosion resistance for the alloys listed above is excellent in all cases. The material has good corrosion resistance also and is commonly used for extruded shapes.
Early aluminum boats were often made with closely-spaced transverse frames with few, if any, longitudinals, a carry-over from traditional wood boatbuilding no doubt. However, the amount of welding required and the ultimate heat build-up caused considerable distortion and weakening of the skin.
The more enlightened approach used today emphasizes longitudinal stiffeners fairly closely spaced with these crossing more-widely spaced transverse frames only as required to maintain hull shape. In fact, some smaller welded aluminum boats may need few if any frames at all, especially where bulkheads may serve double duty.
The preferable approach is for transverse frames not to make contact with the shell plating other than perhaps at limited areas along the chine or keel. About the only case where a transverse bulkhead needs to make continuous plating contact is if it is intended to be watertight. Even then, such a practice tends to distort the plating and is often readily visible on the outside of the boat.
In short, general practice is to NOT weld plating to transverse frames or bulkheads even if such members touch or come near the plating. The chine is the junction Aluminum Boat Building Kits 80 between the bottom and side on a v-bottom or flat bottom boat. On high-speed planing boats, this corner should be as crisp are possible, especially in the aft half of the hull. The reason is that water should break free from the hull to reduce frictional drag at speed, and not climb up the topsides.
As shown before, Fig.
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