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Featured aluminum boat seat frame From Recognized Brands - myboat364 boatplans Mar 15, �� Measure the size of the frame needed for the support of the plywood, and cut out the accurate measurement from the studs. Once you have all the pieces together, assemble the deck frame, and then bring it to your boat for testing. Remember to add extra side support on the frame Author: DIY Boat Building Plans. Simply cut a hole in your boat deck or bench seat, then drop in, and fasten down the lid assembly. Hatches have a drain channel around the perimeter. A drain fitting and section of tubing is also included, to direct any water to the bilge, keeping it out of your Lids can be either flat aluminum, or tread plate. Replacement bass boat hatch. Mar 29, �� definitely don't remove any seats. just put 7/8'' plywood on top of them. i did it to my smoker as soon as i got it. it worked out great. find a big enough piece of cardboard to make a template of the inside of the boat along the gunnels and transfer that to the plywood and cut it out with a jigjaw. be careful to go around the gunnel supports and DO not cut or remove them. if you cut it right.
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Fairly neat wiring job for a rank amateur. I was pleasantly surprised that everything powered up perfectly first go. I just took my time and made sure i followed the wiring diagram. Bilge pump and livewell Aluminum Boat Trailer Frame Kit For pump are wired and working too. Day nine started with ripping all the masking off and revealing the paint job from the night before. I was like a kid on Xmas day and was very happy with the result � Jason did a great job.

Glad we decided to pain the underside of the hatches. It finishes them off nicely. We gave the a black fleck for that professional finish. Next job was to cut out all the holes for the hatch latches.

I made a little template which made the job easier. A hole saw and a die grinder got the job done pretty quickly. Next we got onto the carpeting. Having the spray gun to apply contact adhesive was a godsend. Best way was to cut a piece of carpet oversize and work into the corners before trimming with a good quality stanley knife.

Once the carpet was laid you can trim around the hatch lids � leaving the back edge as a hinge if you like. Came up schmick with the carpet i reckon.

We decided to cut the floor in have which made it a bit easier to handle and install on your own. Back on the trailer, motor installed and ready to head for home.

Just electrical fitout to go and apply some rego stickers and she is ready to hit the water. Jason and John at Offshore Marine Master have done a great job and it was a lot of fun to get my hands dirty and give them a hand.

I knew what i wanted � and i got it. Happy boy indeed. Big day today with prep and hull painting. Started by acid washing the hull. You only leave this stuff on for about 30 seconds then hose it off. It etches and cleans the hull ready for paint.

Then the rather tedious job of masking up took place. Then top coat. Oops forgot to take photo of finished hull. Was a bit excited. Will be plenty more pics to come in better light too. The colour we made up. Just added a small amount of blue to white. There are a couple of gamefishing boats that have a similar colour that i have always liked.

With one litre of paint plus hardener and thinners we were able to do three good coats including the hatches. We started the day fully welding the front casting deck and then i cut out all the hatches for the front deck. There are four hatches in total � livewell, battery, and 2 x storage. Hatches were reinforced and then clips were added to each hatch. Even this took quite a long time to get everything lined up perfectly. Hinges and hatch seal tape are still to be added.

I am keeping the sounder installation very simple. We welded an alloy disc onto the frame in front of the helm position on the port side. To this i will bolt the RAM bracket which will allow me to easily change the viewing angle. Being able to pivot the screen to face the bow is very important when fishing from the front deck using the Minn Kota.

I have chosen the new Raymarine A78 with Chirp transducer for this boat. The deck plate for the casting seat turned up from BLA so we decided to weld that in place rather than through bolting. Not only is this super strong and of course means less hardware but once the carpet is on all you will see is the small nylon disc that receives the seat spigot. Very neat! Got a fair bit done on day six.

Left the camera at home so apologies if the phone photos are a bit dodgy. Started by keying up the hull sides with grit sandpaper in preperation for paint. Added some self adhesive non-skid to the floor framing which will prevent any rattles when the ally floor goes in. Cut out the floor as one piece 3mm alloy and left a little room to wrap the carpet around the edges.

Obviously used contact adhesive to secure the carpet to the ally sheet. Floor look Aluminum Boat Deck Yoga unreal even if i do say so myself. I will probably use no more than half a dozen self tappers to secure the floor to the frames so it can be easily removed if required. Dodgy pics but finally got the majority of the bait tank and livewell plumbing sorted. Am running just one intake and one drain for both tanks which can be regulated by ball valves if i only want to use one at a time.

Just another quick session on day five but managed to get the rear hatches sorted. This forms the aft casting deck so the hatch lids will be reinforced. A small hole against the transom will allow Add Casting Deck Aluminum Boat For the fuel hose to come up through the rear deck and attach to the outboard. All this area will be carpeted.

Looking pretty sweet on the trailer even if i do say so myself. Time to go and catch some fish. Internal layout from stern Internal layout from bow.

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