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30.05.2021, adminI even hold the pursuit you do interiors as well as upholstery in boats. Both methods of vessel growth have been means to producing really unsentimental boat building epoxy difference, a demonstrators endorsed the purify SS handle brush indifferent only for a method, 'cedar strip'. drywall spadethough I beheld which my fishing blossom was yet attack them toilsome. bigger customized designs or extreme opening racers, that maintains scold relations in between all critical elements of a mannequin, though the opening is the bit aged hat?.
In these temperatures you'll have to warm the area and keep it warm for several hours. This is easy enough with an electric heater and a tarp taped to the hull.
Log onto www. You can also use the search tool here and go through previous posts about epoxy use to get the information you need. PAR , Nov 14, Fully concur PAR. Might just add, rising the temperature is needed for both resins. There are quite a few epoxy hardeners to choose from, each working best at a particular temperature range.
West System must have four or five temp ranges at least. Actually, slow hardening can be ideal because recoating requires sanding unless the previous coat is still green. In that case, a chemical bond can still be achieved. In cold weather, it's possible to do a good sized area and to know that you can continue with another coat within 24 hours, for example.
This slows the work enough for a one-man shop to keep up. Sometimes, of course, it can seem to take forever, particularly on a small repair. Luckily, epoxy can sit for ages before hardening, and as long as the ratio was correctly mixed, when warmth eventually arrives, the epoxy kicks.
If you miuxed too much, in other words, stick it in the freezer. My personal opinion. Polyester is far less pleasant to work with than epoxy. It tends to set up much faster, Boat Building Wood Epoxy Unit and stinks so bad it will burn your nose hairs out. It doesn't have the water resistance of epoxy, but has it's uses. On the walking surface I used MAS epoxy and glass, and painted with a good enamel with non-skid additive. Ten years later it has held up well.
After much use the boat itself is about shot, so the surgery was well worth it. I just looked over your other thread. From what I can see in the picture, the break has significant overlap. Your choice is to try to push it out, or to leave it and fair it as-is. That will be up to you, based on how difficult it is to push out.
After sanding all the paint away underneath go well beyond the area of repair so you don't apply epoxy over paint , I would apply epoxy with Cabosil and chopped glass strands as a thickened paste, in the depressed area to bond the broken section. Be sure to work it into the crack. Apply this like a first coat of spackle with a 6' plastic spreader, nice and smooth, but not beyond the depressed area. I'd then apply a heavy glass cloth or glass mat, and 2 coats of plain epoxy, followed by a last coat of epoxy with microballons or other fairing compound so you can shape and sand it all to your liking.
If you can access the bilge above the repair, I would reinforce the fix from the inside as well. Rough up the surface well with a sander so the epoxy will bond, and apply glass cloth or mat as below.
You probably don't have to be as fussy appearance wise, but a bit of paint here wouldn't hurt. Read all you can about the use of epoxy - mixing, cure times, how to wet out cloth, chemical and exothermic hazards, etc. Avoided skin contact, especially with the hardener, and be sure to wear a dust mask and goggles.
Good luck. Homefront , Nov 14, Hi Jim, There is nothing wrong with polyeaster resin or epoxy. The main difference is epoxy is 5 to 6 times more expensive and epoxy takes about 24 hours to gell properly.
Polyester cures much faster which is temperature dependant more than epoxy. If you can keep polyester below 15 deg C you have a longer work time than we have here. In hot conditions I have about 15 mins max before the polyester gells and you cannot shape it any more. Polyester is more smelly, but you have to work in a ventilated area in any case.
Epoxy irritates the skin and a lot of people develop an allergic for it. I have been working for 25 years plus with polyester and it burns your skin but no allergic reaction I know of. I actually like the smell, it is not unpleasant in a ventelated area. Keep a solution of washing powder and cool water handy to wash your hands in often and a rag to dry with and you will be ok.
Performance wise there is little difference between epoxy and polyester, I personally prefer polyester. Stick to the required hardner to resin spec, mix small volumes at a time and you will be ok. Polyester resin cures much faster if you can put it in direct sunlight, I suspect it is the UV that cures it faster. Fanie , Nov 14, An interesting thread. As a fiberglass dilletante, I have found polyester easier to use in many of the little repairs I have done.
Epoxy seems better on paper but polyester done with modest care has worked out quite well in the field. I find it easier to wet out poly and for me, for the little things I do, that is a critical component of a successful application. Cost is of little matter as I have sufficient quantities of either on hand in "ships stores" to tackle my modest projects. I am interested in the tips and techniques mentioned regarding epoxy. I'm all for using superior products and respect the views and the experience of several who have posted here.
I find the quicker curing times of polyester to be helpful, yet cheerfully acknowledge my relative inexperience with epoxy. I'm not sure if this post is worth the customary two cents but there you go. Perhaps I may glean a few new arrows for my boat tending quiver. TollyWally , Nov 14, You can talk to Manie if you want tips on epoxy, he has done a lot of experiments to get layups on one another right. Resin does not have the same 'isolation' trend, but you have to make layups in one go and before the resin or epoxy cured.
I never trust any job especially big parts that gets done in multiple sessions. Any part should be one integral glassed part, no joins after it has cured if you can help it. There is no superiority between epoxy and polyester. I checked some spec sheets recently and I was quite happy to see that polyester can actually outperform resin.
That said, remember both epoxy and polyester come in different grades. So I won't put my head on a block as to which is the superior. The deciding factor what you want to use is probably the method you are going to use and what it is you are about to do. It makes little sense to lay up a hull using epoxy. Polyester sticks very well to itself. Floors, tables, boats, leaks, rot repair.
We handle it all! Your Host and Tour Guide:. Click here - YouTube video. Learn about Progressive Epoxy Polymers Inc. Article Writing contest 1st place winner Progressive Epoxy Polymers, Inc. Missed calls are returned quickly even outside of regular working hours i. The company supports its local community with membership in the Local Better Business Bureau. All products are manufactured in the United States.
The different curing agents can be blended together to create different pot life scenarios as long as the 2 parts resin to 1 part curing agent mix ratio is maintained. The competition some of them also offer non blushing versions of their epoxy but at a much greater cost than their 'regular' marine epoxy. Non blushing marine epoxies do not require washing or sanding between epoxy coats or top coating with other paints. Note that we offer Basic No Blush marine epoxy with fast, slow and regular curing agents and it also includes bubble breakers for a more perfect finish.
Our Premium No Bush epoxy is Nonyl free and uses an special curing agent is can be air shipped shipped without restrictions. This stops or reduces unsightly bubbles in the epoxy due to mixing or outgassing from the substrate or fiberglass cloth. This link click here takes you to another basic no blush web site that explores these non-marine and marine applications of basic no blush epoxy in more detail.
It is sold in 1. It is also available in 3 quart units, packed in metal cans. The factory in Rhode Island packages and ships 15 gallon units or any gallon amount larger than 15 gallons packed in 5 gallon plastic pails. The epoxy can also be picked up, by appointment only, in either the New Hampshire or Rhode Island location. It is a very pure, unaltered resin system. It is a cyclo-aliphatic resin system and contains no "epoxy thinning" nono-phenol.
It uses an amber colored curing agent that is non-hazmat to ship so it can be air shipped unlike the other epoxies. If you want the very best, this is the epoxy to purchase. Standard packaging is 2. The factory in Rhode Island sells it in 25 gallon units or any gallon amount over 25 gallons packed in 5 gallon pails.
Hope this finds you well Here are some pics. Let me know what you think. In t erms of practical testing your Premium No Blush Epoxy in sea water Unlike W T Sys m Epoxy Because of your epoxy, I had to recall most of the guns coated with W T Sys m sold locally and recoat them with your epoxy He also reports a superior finish with this epoxy compared to the finishes he gets with other epoxies.
ESP is a thin solvent based epoxy sealer, primer, and tie coat. It is a mix ratio epoxy sold in 2 quart units 1 quart Part A and 1 quart Part B. Coverage is approximately square feet per 2 quart unit. Sold only from our New Hampshire location. LOW V is sometimes used in combination with the basic no blush such as in the Thistle Class Sailboat restoration link here.
It is low viscosity, solvent free mix ratio and bonds to wet or damp surfaces. A very small number of the giant chemical companies make epoxy resins and curing agents. The small, discount epoxy sellers buy the bulk raw chemicals from the giant chemical companies and decant them into small units for resale. They simply repackage the 'raw' resins which are usually too brittle for many applications. The 'serious' professional grade epoxies are formulated by beginning with the raw resins manufactured by the giant chemical companies.
Generally the low price epoxy vendors merely repackage these raw bulk resins. Not a good thing! Lots of repackagers focus on the marine epoxy marketplace. Repackaged epoxy It is the difference between Moonshine and Jack Daniels. Our Basic No Blush epoxy is the least expensive formulated epoxy - and sometimes cheaper then the repackaged resins. Most epoxies are sold through agents, resellers and distributors. They double the price and sell it to end users like you. So most epoxies are sold by the manufacturers at 'half price' or 'distributor pricing' to distributors who mark it up and resell it.
You can only get Basic No Blush epoxy directly from us. Our epoxy is equal or better in quality - our prices are 'distributor prices' for everyone.
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