$@# Fiberglass Boat Building And DIY Guide &^@!

Boatbuilding with One-Off Fiberglass - Glen-L Boat Plans Basically, there are only two types of fiberglass resin. There is polyester and there is epoxy. Both are used in boatbuilding. Most production boats a constructed with polyester resin. Most fiberglass boats are built from a female mold that accepts multiple layers of fiberglass cloth or matt and resin that eventually cure together to form a hull shape. First, the mold is cleaned and prepped with a mold release wax that allows what will become the fiberglass . Note: If the boat you are building is a speed boat or other planing boat, the junction of the bottom and the transom should be a fairly crisp angle. Before fiberglassing, this edge was rounded for fiberglass application, now you must put the edge back.
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Optionally, this work can be done after the seal coat has cured but in this case, only an epoxy filler can be used. Do NOT use polyester-based putties.

Appendages, such as deadwood, keels, lift strakes, and rub rails should be installed AFTER the fiberglass application. All corners inside and outside should be well radiused. Epoxy resins are considered industrial chemicals that should not be handled carelessly.

ALWAYS wear protective gloves, eye protection, and non-permeable protective clothing such as paper or plastic aprons. No reaction will be noticeable for about 30 minutes at room temperature, but after this time, the mixture will thicken and change to a solid material. The rate of this change can vary.

Cool temperatures slow down the reaction; warmer temperatures speed it up. Also, large amounts in a concentrated area will cure faster than a comparable amount well-dispersed over a larger, flatter area.

As a precaution, large concentrated amounts should be avoided since the heat can build up to such an extent as to present a fire hazard. For example, slow the reaction down by placing the contents in a cool area or in the shade; some even place the container in an ice box free from foodstuffs.

Or in cooler temperatures somewhat below the 70 o F level, the product containers can be brought up to room temperature by placing them in WARM not hot water before mixing. It is also possible to bring up the work surface temperature with locally applied heat, such as with light bulbs. However, do NOT attempt to change the reaction by varying the mix ratio, and do NOT attempt to use thinners or solvents in cold weather to make the products easier to mix; bring them up to room temperature and mixing will not be a problem.

Keep containers closed when not in use. If crystals form in products, set containers in warm water; they should disappear and no harm is done to the product. If products stand for more than 6 months, stir or agitate before use. Follow mixing instruction on the container labels.

Do NOT mix up more than about a quart at a time, and smaller Building Fiberglass Boat Console Word amounts are usually preferable. Mix up only as much resin as can be worked in a minute period. A possible exception to this is that in temperatures cooler than recommended, the mixture can remain in the mixing container for a few minutes to help get the reaction going prior to dispensing.

Do NOT mix in glass or foam plastic containers. Certain power-type mixers can be dangerous and make mixing incomplete. A typical problem with beginners is that they use too much resin. This is a waste of resin, makes finish work difficult, and increases weight and cost.

Do NOT attempt to spray any of the coats of resin. Use a thin high-density foam roller with long multi-directional strokes and good pressure. After minutes, check the surface for any dry spots where the wood has absorbed the resin especially over edge or end-grain areas , and recoat. Air escaping from the wood may cause small bubbles to appear. This is a proper occurrence and indicates proper sealing; too thick a coat will inhibit this reaction.

Work the coat as long as possible to assure that all areas are evenly coated. Work from a dryer area to a wetter area; there is no need to stop. Allow this coat to cure at least tack-free before doing subsequent work on the surface, or overnight. The surface may appear fuzzy upon cure which is usually of no consequence. However, if runs or sags or extreme roughness occurs in an area of a type that would interfere with the easy and smooth application of the cloth, these areas should be sanded.

However, heavy power sanding on this coat should be avoided to prevent removing the seal coat or damaging the wood surface. However, a light sanding is often advisable to remove any dust, dirt, insects, or debris that could have settled onto the surface during cure.

In addition, a solvent wipe after sanding using a rag soaked with denatured alcohol, acetone, lacquer thinner, or similar solvent will remove any loose dust and other contaminants. With all cured coats of resin, a oily-like film amine blush frequently appears on the surface. This thin film is easily removed with solvents as above, if left on the surface it can cause bond problems. Make sure the surface is completely dry before recoating. My wife and I are tossing around several plans from different designers right now.

We know we want something classic, it must have a cabin, it must be trailerable. We still have many other decisions to make - cuddy, enclosed salon, single helm, flying bridge, displacement or planing hull, the list goes on If you are serious about this, get a plan set for something small like a canoe or kayak and see of you have the patience or even the desire to build a larger craft. It really all depends on materials and finish.

However, the final value would suffer greatly to the point that it would probably be worth little more than the material cost. Get clickin' and start dreamin'. Mark42 Fleet Admiral. Joined Oct 8, Messages 9, The guy said he's had it stored in his barn for 5 years, and it has been stripped,but the hull is sound. He wants me to 'make him an offer', but did say he got it for free. The only thing is finding something to tow a 33' boat. Guess I'd figure that into the cost of the package.

Although, I could just have someone tow it to the lake for me and wet slip it for the summer. Especially if it has a working trailer for a 33'boat. BTW, to repower a 33' boat, you are talking some serious horsepower. Or if its setup for outboards, it will need two or better outboards.

Just be aware it will cost a lot more to power that boat than Building A Small Fiberglass Boat Vision you will spend on a rebuild. On top of the K it will cost in power, figure burning about Fiberglass Boat Building Philippines Air 20 to 40 gallons an hour at top speed. I looked through Building Fiberglass Boat Cabin Mode the free want ads yesterday, and I'm going to look at an old Coast Guard boat with a 33' hull this morning. Joined Aug 12, Messages Joined Jun 8, Messages Joined Jun 28, Messages 1, It's a lot of work fairing the hull, but when it's done, it will work just fine..

Bondo Moderator Staff member. Joined Apr 17, Messages 67, It is applied through a foam roller, where you need to use firm force and directional strokes in order to evenly distribute the resin. Prepare the fiberglass cloth and cut it according to the shapes needed to cover your boat.

Use staples, tacks, or tape to attach them to the boat. The second coating of resin is called the bond coat. If you can extend your patience, sand the hull again, and apply the second coat on top of the fiberglass cloth. Make sure that you take away the item you used to fasten the fiberglass cloth before the bond coat hardens the surface completely. The third resin coating is called the fill coat.

After sanding, apply a third coat of resin. The final resin coating must be evenly applied and smooth, and it needs to be thick enough that you can sand without creating damage to the fiberglass cloth. Remember that the final coating is what people can see clearly, and it defines the beauty of your boat. Wait for a considerable amount of time for the final coating of resin to completely dry, and that can take overnight to accomplish. And when the final coating is hard and strong enough, sand the hull using a lower grit paper in the beginning, and complete the sanding process with a higher grit paper.

Do this sanding process meticulously and with utter precision. Choose a protective agent that is high quality. Avoid purchasing a cheap version, since the protective agent contributes to the durability and elegance of your boat.

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