Build Your Own Sailing Yacht 80,20 Ft Bass Boat Trailer For Sale 01,Boat Excursions Puerto Vallarta Twitter - PDF Books
03.02.2021, adminVessel wharf lighting additionally ensures which yourself, afterwards no outwale is required. After scornful them if they don't toe a line or shutup bluster them, starting upon a rabbit keel as well as relocating ceiling compartment we strech a yachy turn up a carcass.
I did find out which a build your own sailing yacht 80 of these kits do sell a directions as well as diagrams individually? At a little time before to right away the plumbing trickle had occurred.
All these number are approximate. There would be lots of ways to cut costs and still have a very nice boat. Everything is either completed or already purchased. I scrounged heavily for everything. And of course lots of Glen-L epoxy. The boat ran great�way better than I expected. John Wilmot � Edgewater, MD. The boat is one of the favorites of all the people I meet on the lake. After it was done I added so many extras. July I used nice mahogany for trim work, inner and outer keel and side supports.
All plywood was marine grade Okume to keep it light in weight. Built by Mike Hadfield � My first attempt at building one of your designs was the 12 foot skiff, stitch and glue method. I used exterior grade ply rather than marine grade to keep costs down in case I messed up. It took about 3 weeks to complete, taking into account moving it in and out of the garage we have small garages over here , but in reality with enough space you could almost start it Friday night and have it in the water for Monday!
Mike Hadfield, Cornwall, UK. There was a bit of waste in bad paint, redone deck, etc. But the end result was worth the effort.
Also, please understand, this is a complete package that I just sold. Well here is the number�. Although the finished result is more of a work of art than a working pleasure boat, this may not be the best ad for your site. It might be an example of an extreme though.
I have built many, many projects in my career, but the thing I can say about this, is it has been a joy to build from start, to finish. I have never had the feeling it was a drudge or a tough thing to do. And to add to Build Your Own Sailing Yacht 889 that, I never expected to ever ride in it� If I do get even one quick ride, that will be a few moments of ecstasy. Built by Mark Bronkalla � My cost numbers are a bit dated as they are from when I built my Riviera. I did a fair amount of scrounging and searching to hold to that price.
There were also a few things I bought at the time and never used that are not included in the budget. At one point I had a bag with all of the receipts in it, but I was not as careful about putting everything in there that I could have. I have a budget page with some of the numbers filled in at: Not complete, but it does give folks an idea of some of the major cost items and quantities e.
Mark Bronkalla � Waukesha, WI, www. I want to make use of this opportunity in commenting you on your website, it is a great resource and contained a wealth of knowledge. I am already dreaming about my next project and would this initiative of providing an estimate of total cost of different boat designs be just what I need to compel me into some action. Regards, Francois Theron � Australia. Built by JR Holder � I used your kits for the epoxy and other stitch and glue materials.
I purchased Honduran Mohogany for the lumber and British marine plywood. The outside of the boat was painted with green gelcoat and the mahogany was finished with Sea Fin Teak oil.
These costs are slightly higher than most because they are delivered to Fairbanks AK. J R Holder. The boat sails great under sail and 5HP motor did not try rowing yet. When using the mast, make sure you properly secure the base of the mast to your bow knee with a stop washer.
This was a nice experience for me and I feel confident in building my next boat! Last year the Saboteer, approximate cost using the best materials, epoxy etc. Building the Saboteer over the jig was the most gratifying. The boat really handles well, I just got off the river an hour ago and had more than a couple people come up and ask me about the boat including the sheriff who was out on safety patrol. All said it looked like a wonderful design.
Built by John Crill � From you I bought the plans and the hardware kit for the sliding seat. I bought marine ply from a supplier in England I live in France but the marine ply is cheaper and better, no voids, in England and also the epoxy.
All the mahogany came from a local staircase manufacturer who sells a tightly paced skip of imperfect wood 10feet by 4 feet by 3 feet for about dollars or about 1. A real bargain. All of the wood is hardwood, some is slightly warped but most of it is only imperfect for making staircases � fine for cutting into narrow strips for boatbuilding and laminating. I bought the sculls at a car boot sale garage sale for 30 dollars. For much Build Your Own Sailing Yacht Queensland of the build I used polyurethane glue as it is pretty tough and simpler to use than epoxy, but everything is epoxy coated and the boat also has a layer of fine glass roving.
I modified the deck design by lengthening it both ends and glassing in a bulkhead to make waterproof caissons. Best regards, John Crill, France. Working on the Riviera now and keeping track of expenses. SystemThree epoxy and fiberglass sheathing. Engine is a 15 hp Mercury bigfoot with power tilt and electric start. I painted the boat with several coats of Polyurethane floor and porch enamel.
Also installed a fishfinder with speedometer and temperature. The actual build time would have been longer for most people as I am a retired carpenter and have a large shop full of good tools. This also is the 5th boat I have built. Clark Johnson � Laurel, MT. My Dad has passed away and since I am now retired, I decided to attempt to build the same boat, on my own. I struggled from time to time but I finally finished the project.
The boat turned out pretty nice and it performs very much like the original. Mike Aronson � Holland, MI. The boat is all epoxy encapsulated mahogany and Marine Mahogany Ply. BTW I never could have done this without all the info available on your site. I could have spent less if I had not used mahogany for my stringers, sheers and chines. Or more if Build Your Own Sailing Yacht 104 I wanted to double plank the deck with mahogany and go for new controls, motor, etc. Built by Larry Madison � In response to your request, I am getting close to the end of my Squirt build.
I already had my outboard motor from another boat. Thanks for all you do to encourage and support us. Built by Rich Stabler � I built the Squirt that you have on your web site.
When it comes time to visit the DMV office they will ask you to place a value and on it and you can show you have paid the tax along the way. A simple break down for ours was as follows. I did manage to keep costs down by using quite a lot of reclaimed timber and offcuts from work, and was able to get my marine ply at near trade prices, even so I was amazed at how cheap it worked out in the end! Graham Knight � Shepperton, England. I used Philippines mahogany for the framing and plywood, bought a new steering assembly but the motor controls I was able to purchase used.
Someone with more experience may save a couple hundred dollars as I did ruin a sheet or two of plywood! Paul McMillan � Ontario, Canada. Built by Don Wood � I built a Squirt using the kit. The total cost including 9. The motor was purchased from Small outboard. Great planing boat and have had a great time running up and down the Delaware River. Love your products. Would like to build the Zip for my next boat.
Don Wood � New Jersey. Bottom and boot top painted and sides ready for stain and varnish. Have steering wheel, steering system, throttle, and other misc. Have some mahogany in stock, but will need a little more to complete interior, seating, and deck. Will need cutwater and other hardware, rubrail, windshield, and upholestry. Great fun and therapy for what ails you. I hope to create a show piece�.. Gerald Hurst � Jacksonville, NC.
I used stainless fittings everywhere I could. See my detailed spreadsheet for the breakdown. Bill Edmundson � Pelham, AL. I think the argument that it is cheaper to build a boat misses the point of the exercise�I certainly could have gotten a very nice used boat of this size or larger for half of what I will spend on this boat. Mahogany frames, marine plywood and okume decking, I used your nails and screws and West System epoxy.
This price does not include engine or steering gear. No motor. But I must add that I did have some of the framing material on hand. Pete Ahlqvist � Wanless, Manitoba, Canada. We have already started our next project the Tunnel King from Glen-L. David Blanchard � Brockford, Ontario, Canada. I epoxied the interior and exterior and fiberglassed the exterior seams.
Built by Bill Hodgdon � It was significantly modified for a round stern and a folding hardtop. The design changes took time to plan, but no cost. The top rail is wooden, shaped to look like rope took time, no cost. I hand-made the six fenders and bow pudding took lotsa time, little cost. I used quality marine plywood, not home depot exterior ply. It was fiber glassed inside and out using epoxy resin. It has full navigation lights, bilge pump, hand pump bellows air whistle, and other little details.
It was further modified for electric power. It safely runs for over 6 hours on a charge. Great little boat! I have built over a dozen boats now. I hit a few unexpected expenses when I began adding on a few features that were not part of the original design.
A few learning experiences would reduce the build time by at least 20 hours. Most notably, Phoenix heat made the epoxy set too fast, and I had to sand more than I should have. A new Minnkota 55 lb. I lined up each cut out and then stapled the pieces making a careful note of the angle of curve in the chines at that location�I then � transferred the template to my timber blank, marked the cuts and proceeded.
Once the rib had been made only minor adjustments Sanding to the angles of the cuts were required.. After finishing the ribs the keel was glued and screwed in pace. Two heels- were installed on the keel one against the transom and another against the stem. When everything was dry and stable I planed down the stem to meet the line of the boat.
For the front-most rib I cut a curved piece of wood to go across the top to support some decking.. It is symmetrical.. I cut rebates into the bottom of the ribs about mm out from the keel. I cut the rebate very carefully so the depth matched the thickness of the stringer to avoid too much fairing.. The stringers were then glued and screwed in..
Here is a drawing of what that looks like. Attached s a close up of the bottom, a chine, and a rib showing the fit. The side panel has been done Build Your Own Sailing Dinghy 40 in this pic.
I attached a 19mm wide vertical strip to the keel. The bottom planking butts up to this and the strip protrudes about 15mm. The strip was glued and screwed from the inside through the keel. It sat on the flat middle part of the keel left untouched by the fairing. See the centre rib drawing in the fairing section I also put in two seat rails 15mm x 20mm by notching out a step on the inner side of each rib and putting a small lug on each side ofthe transom to support them.
I also did a lot of sanding. You have fantastic access to all parts of the boat before it is planked so do as much as possible.. The detail of the attachment of the keel to the stem and how that is shaped can be seen. This was fun.. Again these were both made from the same piece timber to ensure uniform bending force. After matching the cardboard sides from the full size mock up to the sides of the boat frame I traced them out onto the sheets of ply plus 10mm all around for risk�.
A join was required toward the stern and I used a rectangle of ply on the inner side oF the join to provide support. This rectangle was a neat fit between the chine and inwale and was placed and clamped at the same time the panels were going on. While wearing gloves, I ran a bead of glue across every surface on the frame and spread it with a small spatula. Then using some help to hold the side pieces in place I clamped the ply to the outer-side of the chine ran some glue along the gunwale and clamped the gunwale and the plank to the inwale..
I used a clamp every mm. To ensure the boat stayed symmetrical both sides were clamped in mm turns to ensure uniform bending and forces While being held by the clamps I drew out the lines for screws and used a large compass I made to set the distance between each screw. I then used 1 cordless drill fitted with a bit that did a pilot hole and a rebate in one and another with a Philips drive to put in the screw.
When the sides were dry and ready I faired the excess on the bottom to create a flat surface for the rest of the hull.. Three short ones at the front and one larger piece for the rest. Before finally placing these an angle needed to be planed onto the edge that was to meet with the keel strip. The front pieces were fiddly so I did these first.. I also and put some quad around the inner join of the transom to give it some support, some heels at each top corner of the transom- putting screws all the way through the gunwale, ply and inwale.
This pic with my kids shows the position of the centre rib. It looks like it is toward the front.. It is the one with the temp thwart- again the distortion in the image is due to my camera.
Lastly in this step I shaped the top of the stem and put in a small peg to use as a tie point. I cut two basic seats to be placed on the rail. The middle seat had a support that went from the chine to the seat. Both seats had a small vertical post installed in the middle attached to the keel to help stop flexing. The pictures below show how I made the cardboard template for the seat support before doing the final in wood. My last piece of wood work was two v shaped pieces of ply - one each side of the centre of the transom to make it stronger and thicker to support an out board motor.
I had to cut it so it went around the heel between the keel and transom. All the screw countersinks etc we plugged with epoxy. In preparation for this I patched the top of every screw with expoy putty and sanded them flat. I patched and sanded everything I could With the boat upside down.. The epoxy resin was mixed and applied with brushes and rollers to the entire outside of the hull. It took about 20 min to get all of the glass saturated until transparent.
The resin started to go off after about 30 min. By the next morning it was hard.. WIth appropriate breathing and lung protection I sanded and sanded and sanded.. Inside and out.. I applied a couple of coats for white exterior house paint as an undercoat and kept on sanding, mostly by hand and with an orbital sander.. I used one of the modern acrylic enamel paints designed for exterior use. The colour scheme was based on the paint I had in my shed.
The paint cured for about 2 weeks until it was nice and hard Prior to the final coat though we threw it into a swimming pool for a floatation test.. I fitted the boat out with rowlocks, rope guides etc..
These were just screwed on to the gunwales with stainless steel wood screws I registered the boat. IT works well under power or just rowing. It is light enough for my son and I to carry it down a beach. I've read through your instructions and they all seem very clear.
I do have a few questions though. I was extremely fascinated by your project on building a wooden boat from scratch and I had a few questions to ask you, if that is ok. First off I should say this inspired me to take on this challenge myself and also to write about this process for my A level Use of Maths Course work. The first question I would like to ask is roughly how long did each of the steps take to complete the job and overall how long did the job take.
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