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24.11.2020, admin
A mast or spar made from wood not only looks and feels good but it also takes advantage of the naturally ability that trees have developed over the centuries for creating a tall, strong, flexible pole. Those tall straight pine and fir trees are able to grow to such heights and survive in wind storms because their natural elasticity absorbs the shock loads caused by gusting winds.
There are several reasons why soft woods are the chosen type of timber used in the making of masts and spars. However many other spars have been built using whatever light, straight-grained wood was available, such as those shown below.
When choosing a timber look for one that is as light and straight grained as possible with, hopefully few knots. But green timber is more likely to develop shakes and will be less able to absorb any preservative, oil, varnish or whatever you use as a finish.
Strength or resistance to breaking in wood involves its elasticity which allows the wood to bend to absorb stresses. All spars need to be able to absorb the shock of a gust which the wood absorbs by bending but too much bend will spoil the sail shape so a happy compromise is needed. And stresses will differ depending on the types of rig and whether the mast keel stepped, deck stepped or in a tabernacle.
However, most spars taper towards the top, as the diameter becomes smaller so the weight becomes less. For the average cruising yacht the weight differences between a solid and a hollow spar are hardly significant.
The other advantage of the hollow, built spar is that it can be made from easily available timber sizes, and with a minimum of waste. I theory it should be possible to acquire a trunk which has the length and taper needed for your spar. However, in my opinion a spherical mast will produce the least turbulence to the air passing over the rig.
However, it will be much easier to source timers of smaller cross-section and then build the spar up from them. Building a spar from separate parts does require very careful attention to the gluing surfaces, they must be closely mating and the actual gluing must be precise. If you are confident in your carpentry and gluing skills, short lengths can be scarffed to produce the required length.
Scarf joints are best at least ten times the thickness of the piece and when the various pieces are assembled the joints should be staggered. First determine the required diameter of your spar and then where you want your it to taper and by how much. Always best to start with the wood a little wider, thicker, and longer than the finished dimensions. Use a string stretched between tacks in the middle of each end, use this to make several center marks on the timber.
Now use the centreline as the datum from which to mark the width of your mast at intervals along its length. You can now cut the outline of your mast to this drawn profile but cut it oversized as you still need to plane the timer square.
Then plane off those eight corners to give you a sixteen sided spar, which can then easily be rounded using sandpaper. The center of the circle will Building A Dinghy Mast 2020 be on the centreline and the edge of the circle right on the edge of the face. Then draw a line from the center of the circle, at 45 degree to the centreline and mark where it crosses the circle. Do this for every transition point and as many points in between as possible, the more the merrier and do it foe both sides of the circle. One you have planed the spar down to eight sides you can use the same method to mark it up for reducing it to sixteen sides.
Now unless you are building a massive spar getting from 16 sides to 32 sides using the above measuring technique is going to become fiddly. At this stage it is quicker to use your eye and your judgment to plane off the remaining corners.
Use long strips of sandpaper wrapped around the spar and pull it backwards and forwards in a long, spiralling motion. However, if a pole of the required dimensions is not available building the spar might be the only option. But if you are building one it is relatively simple to make it hollow and thus save weight aloft and create a central channel for masthead wiring.
The next problem when creating a hollow spar is that unlike the solid mast the taper cannot be created afterwards. There have been several configurations used to increase the gluing areas across the width of built staves. And several configurations which attempt to reduce wastage and at the same time produce large gluing surfaces.
Unfortunately while they will produce superb, strong spars they call for increasingly complex carpentry. However, it is a technique which really requires access to woodworking machinery, such as profiling and planing machines. It offers a real alternative to expensive swaged fittings, can be easily maintained and it is corrosion-free.
Rounding Timber Spars Here my handy tip for rounding timber spars, oars etc. I am wanting to convert the gaff rigged sail from the existing line around �. Woodboat building questions a Forum for wooden boat building, plans, lumber, caulking compounds and other boat building problems. A Worm Shoe is a non structural piece of wood whose 'sole' purpose is to protect the underwater wooden parts of a wooden boat keel, they need checking and replacing regularly.
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Privacy Policy. Advertising Policy. Cookie Policy. I am perfectly aware that the majority of Wooden Boat aficionados are sensible folk. However, I need to point out that I am an amateur wooden boat enthusiast simply writing in order to try to help other amateur wooden boat enthusiasts.
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