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Search this site or the web powered by FreeFind Site search Web search. And a backyard boat-building project can be a lot of fun. Still, you wonder, ''Is working with Kevlar difficult, and what kind of mess does it make? But to get the real nitty gritty, you need to talk with someone who bought the book, built a mold and laid up the Kevlar. I got a chance to do that recently when a friend at work mentioned the fishing trip she and her husband took in their homemade canoe.

You also have to wear latex gloves when working with epoxy. When you're in the middle of building, it's a great big, messy project.

If you don't have experience working with fiberglass, Bowers recommends building a couple of small, easy-to-handle projects before tackling a canoe. That way, when you make the canoe, you know how much epoxy to use. Gilpatrick, notes that these plywood-and-fiberglass boxes are animal-resistant and can double as a camp chair or table. Working with fiberglass and Kevlar is not as difficult as it looks, Bowers adds. But getting a perfect, factory-style finish is not easy. Moran explains the building process in detail.

But Bowers has a few tips to make things easier, based on his experience. Here are Bowers' tips for making some of these steps easier. The numbers on his suggestions match the numbers of the steps above. But, he adds, there are other alternatives. Kevlar canoes are easy to fix.

You sand off the finish and patch it. Buying a commercially made Royalex canoe is another alternative if you don't mind carrying a few extra pounds on the portages. Some new Royalex models cost about the same as the materials for a homemade Kevlar canoe, and they're ready to paddle out of the box.

Used Royalex canoes are even cheaper. Of course, some of us simply enjoy paddling a canoe we've built ourselves. Books and videos are available to help us build Kevlar, wood-strip or wood-and-canvas canoes.

And some specialty canoe manufacturers offer classes in wood-strip and wood-and-canvas construction techniques. So if you're yearning to build your own canoe this winter and spring, here are a few places to get started: Resources James Moran's book Building Your Kevlar Canoe appears to be the only one available about building a canoe from Kevlar.

The Wooden Boat School offers a wide range of boat building classes, including courses in wood-strip and wood-and-canvas canoe building. The Northwoods Canoe Co. Canoe Passage Outfitters offers classes in wood-and-canvas canoe building.

The list includes several books on building canoes. Happy Paddling! This article has been provided in partnership with:. Easier Than It Looks! The stations are fastened to a central spine, and each station is a cross-section of the canoe at that point along its length.

The final assembly, with the stations spaced along the spine, resembles a dinosaur backbone. Making the mold. This involves linking the stations which will end up inside the mold with foam strips. These are like the strips of wood that form the hull of a wood-strip canoe. After the strips are in place the gaps between them are filled with drywall compound. Finally, this foam-strip hull is sanded smooth. At this point, you have a male mold on which the Kevlar and fiberglass are laid up.

Laying up the Kevlar and fiberglass hull. First, the Kevlar cloth and the fiberglass cloth are cut to size. The canoe is made from an inner Kevlar shell, covered by an outer fiberglass shell.

Then the cloth is impregnated with epoxy to give it rigidity. Removing the hull from the mold and finishing the bow and stern. Kevlar and fiberglass cloth are epoxied to the bow and stern to finish the hull. The ends of the canoe have to be left open in step 3 so the hull can be pried off the mold. After the ends are finished, the hull can be painted.

Adding the gunwales and ribs, which reinforce the bottom of the canoe. The top edge of the hull is sandwiched between two gunwale pieces. The excess hull material that sticks up above the gunwale is cut off. Adding the flotation compartments, and building and installing the seats, yoke and thwarts. Tips and Tricks Here are Bowers' tips for making some of these steps easier. Plotting the paper plans from dimensions in the book ''took forever,'' Bowers says.

So allow plenty of time. The stations are cut from these plans. Bowers used foam insulation that had aluminum on one side. These strips are fastened to the stations and form the mold. Aviation foam also doesn't work because it's expensive. It also gives off poisonous gas if you cut it with a hot wire. Throw it on and spread it out. You can buy expensive scissors made for cutting the cloth, but Bowers says you don't need them.

I had one set lying around that didn't work and another set that did, so you have to experiment. There's not a lot of time for tedious measuring and weighing. The epoxy has to be well mixed, and tongue depressors can be used to scrape down the sides of the mixing bowl.

Epoxy is applied to the Kevlar and fiberglass with paint rollers. Sometimes the paint rollers would start smoking. At that point, we had to get a new roller. But Bowers estimates that he used slow-curing epoxy for at least 90 percent of the work. The Kevlar is difficult to trim down neatly to the gunwales because it tends to fray.

Bowers found that cutting it with a router didn't work. Instead, he used a sharp knife to trim the Kevlar above the gunwales. If the gunwales or canoe need repairs later on, the stainless screws are easier to remove than steel or brass screws that may have corroded. Since Bowers uses his canoe primarily for fishing and doesn't do much portaging, shaving off the last ounce wasn't a big priority.

So he constructed larger, heavier floatation compartments than the plans called for. His compartments have flat tops and give him a handy surface for holding fishing gear and drinks. Alternative Solutions ''I built the canoe to save money, and a guy has to have a project,'' Bowers says.

Build Your Own Kevlar Canoe. Nick O'Tyme. Your Banner Could be Here.


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