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England Ireland Find Havens. England Ireland Find Routes. Other Latest Top Next Previous Preventing your dinghy and outboard from How To Build A Dinghy Boat Name being stolen. Uglifying our new Zodiac with white rubber paint Photo: Michael Harpur. The end result, our very unattractive dinghy Photo: Michael Harpur. A heavy duty cycle lock doubles as a good anchor point for a chain and locks then engine up Image: Michael Harpur. A photograph is worth a thousand words.
We are always looking for bright sunny photographs that illustrate this experience. If you have some images that we could use please upload them here. All we need to know is how you would like to be credited for your work and a brief description of the image if it is not readily apparent. The second, F, will be 56" from the bow. See Hannu's diagrams Mark the locations on both sides of the boat. I screwed all of the ribs to one side of the boat.
To get them started. Use long, strong screws. I did this on the second boat. Screw in more wood where the transom will end up. This will end up giving you something to screw the transom to once you get to that point. Otherwise, I have no idea how one is supposed to screw the transom to the sides of the boat. Carefully bend the side in. Start some screws on the exterior of the boat, and as you tighten in the sides, screw in rib E.
Repeat for ribs F and G. They get progressively more difficult to bend in. After you get the last rib in place, you put the transom on the back and screw it in as well.
You'll note in my pictures that I ended up adding the blocks of wood to the end of the sides as I noted above in order to get something to screw the transom to. Once you get that transom screwed in, the boat is pretty well stuck together. I added in some pictures of where my hull started to crack and splinter along rib E. I figured I could sand it down and repair it with fiberglass. Again, soak your wood as I do in boat 2.
These two shots are just showing what the boat looked like after it was all screwed together with the ribs and transom. Do you arms hurt yet? Mine sure did. Note the blocks of wood at the back. Again, rip a 2X4 in half and screw it to the sides. That'll give you a place to screw to. See boat 2. Place the sides and ribs on top of the excess plywood you have.
Trace out the bottom of the boat on that ply and cut it out with a jigsaw. As you can see with this boat bottom, I had a very hard time making my boat symmetrical. One side is almost straight. I was pretty concerned at this point. But pressed on. I mean, what could I do at this point anyway?
The reason this was so skewed was because of the cracking earlier when I bent the sides around the ribs. Again, soak your ply and you may avoid this problem. Flip the boat over and start using 1" screws to screw the bottom to the bottom of the sides of the boat. I started from the bow and worked my way back.
For some reason the first boat was very easy to do this to, but the second boat was a pain in the neck. For this boat I spaced the screws fairly far apart so that I could fiberglass between the screw heads, let that fiberglass dry, then take out the screws and finally do a second pass through to fiberglass over the places the screws had been. I should say, the Messy World of Fiberglass.
This step has several parts to it and a lot of notes. This will keep the resin from oozing in through the seams. Gives it a nice flat surface inside too. Don't worry too much about big gaps between the bottom and the sides of the boat.
The resin will fill in gaps. Always use good gloves when working with fiberglass resin. And wear a long sleeved shirt and pants when dealing with the cloth. I used these black, rubberized, gloves I found at Home Depot.
They worked great because I could handle the resin directly and I could flake off the dry resin from the gloves between batches. Thin rubber gloves tend to rip apart when smoothing on the resin. Hannu's instructions explain to use "Glass Tape". I think that means fiberglass tape. European style? After searching the Internet for "glass tape" I figured it didn't mean much but fiberglass. I went to Home Depot Homer's and bought two oz fiberglass resin kits has the fiberglass and hardener and two big packs of fiberglass cloth.
Two oz. But you will need at least 1 of those. Probably more. So either plan to make multiple trips or buy more than you need, keep the reciept and return the unused stuff later.
Also, buy a few of the plastic measuring cups that Homer's sells in the paint department. They have ounces on the side. The resin has a certain, tiny, amount of hardener to mix into the resin.
I used one cup only to measure the resin in to. I used 2 or 3 others to pour the measured contents in to then to mix and use. I had several of the mix and use containers because that stuff hardens FAST. I used a plastic shot glass to measure the liquid hardener in to. First I pre cut lengths of fiberglass strips. Long ones. About 2 or 3 inches wide. I put them where they would be resin'd into place. I mixed my resin in 7 oz. More than that and it would harden before I could use the whole batch.
My recipe was 7 oz of resin and 98 drops of hardener. Then make a mark on that measuring cup so you know where 98 drops comes up to. Then reuse that cup over and over only for hardener. Make sense? So now you have 7 oz. Pour both in to a third cup.
Mix that stuff up. No kidding. Thicken the resin up with either sawdust which is what I used in the first boat or flour. And mix. I found that sawdust was too granular. You can see in this first boat that the seams are brown. The sawdust paste was too chunky and was a pain to smooth out and sand. With the second boat I used flour and it was so much smoother. Use flour. Order of fiberglassing: Outside first. After taping the inside of the boat, glob on the resin on the seam on the outside.
Lay the fiberglass strip in to the resin, and cover over with more resin. Smooth it out. Once you have finished How To Build A Dinghy Racing Boat Top all exterior seams, then remove the inside duct tape. Then glob on resin on all seams inside the boat and lay fiberglass strips in to those and cover those with resin and smooth.
You will notice that the resin hardens pretty quickly. That was pretty verbose. On to the next step. After all of your fiberglassing is done, you are ready to sand and it smooth. Because your fiberglass is now hardened and holding the boat together, you can now remove the ribs. If necessary, take out the screws and patch the holes with little pieces of fiberglass. I have a little Ryobie orbital sander. I used 40 grit paper I think I used at least 6 packs of the stuff between the two boats.
When sanding fiberglass, please always use the following safety precautions: 1 Wear a respirator. You do NOT want microscopic shards of glass in your lungs. Very bad. You don't want it in your eyes either.
Here, I sport Wonka goggles. I figured this out the hard way. You'll itch for days if you do not do this. It's quite uncomfortable. Same reason. I reccommend this. Incidentally, I have retrofitted these ear protectors with headphones. I listen to audiobooks when I work. Safety taken care of. Sand away. Just make all the seams smooth.
Right about where the middle rib, E, was I inserted my seat. I cut a 2X4 in half lengthwise and screwed each half to the side of the boat, rounding the tops for effect. Between I screwed a piece of 2X4 across the span. The seat is two 2X6's I had laying around note the new deck I had no pieces long enough to go all the way from front to back, so I screwed the 2X6's into the back transom and into the 2X4 seat cross beam.
They kid of float out beyond that. I figured that's ok since I'll mostly be sitting right in the middle anyway. And it does work. Also note in the pictures that I added those holes in the corners near the transom for handles. Those were rather tricky and I improved on those in boat 2. That last picture has the beginnings of waterproofing.
I had leftover deck waterproofing. I slathered a coat of that on to the wood. May have been superfluous though. I think pain and polyurethane might have been sufficient. Everywhere I added screws I had to also add fiberglass patches and sanded those for waterproofing.
I used 1" drywall screws to screw in the 1" X 1" trim all along the top lip of the boat. Again, soak this stuff thoroughly in water before you try to bend it. Mine did crack some. It looks great and adds some strength to the boat. This part took some time. I mean, what colors are we painting this thing?! I used regular ol spray paint. Blue outside, yellow trim and green inside. I put a layer of polyurethane all over it to give it a nice glossy look and to water seal it.
Because I live in Colorado, I doubt my little boat will get too much use. I think if you were really going to use this thing a lot you might look into more durable paints.
I had a really difficult time even finding any information about "boat or marine" paint online. Any ideas anyone? Safety: Use a respirator and gloves. Goggles won't hurt either. This is an odd step. First off, I didn't order my "oarlocks" or "oars" until I was about done with the boat. So I'm noting to do that in step one or so. Here, I'm trying to imagine how they'll fit For this step, I'll just say that you shouldn't buy cheap oars.
They're pathetic. Save the cash, folks. I bought these, and then made my own. Which is later in the instructable. The home made ones worked a million times better. The little ones kept unscrewing and loosening. Had no leverage. Too short. They didn't fit the oarlocks either, therefore I tried to bulk them up with hot glue and rope. I used another half a 2X4 and screwed it to the side of the boat about where I thought the oar should be.
They're about 12" from the sternmost the back of the boat edge of the little seat crossbrace. A hole in the top of that block of wood holds the oarlock. Make sure you attach that block of wood really well. That's where you'll be pulling all of the force of motion on to the boat. If that thing breaks off in the middle of a lake, you're going to have a heck of a time getting to shore.
I used screws and liquid nails. I had pretty much finished the first boat. Now it was time to make one for my wife. And faster. A tarp held by scrap wood. Helps a lot! We both pulled the sides over the ribs together and got a very nice bend to the wood. Also, this boat is the "smaller" design from Hannu's plans.
Note I added the 1" trim to the back of the sides to screw the transom to. Much easier. In this boat, I used all 1" screws and left them all in. In Boat 1 I took the screws out and fiberglassed over them.
Here I left the screws How To Build A Dinghy Racing Boat Yours in and fiberglassed over the heads. The advantage is that I didn't have to make 2 passes witht he fiberglass, just went over it all at once. As I mentioned, this bottom was a pain to add. It didn't want to bend There were some large 1" large gaps in the seams. But no worries, the fiberglass resin filled them in.
We've alredy covered the steps of mixing and applying fiberglass. Only note that this boat used flour and not sawdust. The result is a much smoother seam. In this boat I made the seat a bit wider. A total of three 2X4s. Two in the middle and two halveson the outer sides. Same seat design otherwise as in boat 1. This time, How To Build A Dinghy Racing Boat On audiobook in ear, I did not prep the wood with deck treatment, but just applied paint.
My wife wanted custom colors instead of spray paint.
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