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Finishing Hull Planking - The Suburban Ship Modeler
Model Boat Hull Design Notes - Hull design and construction is my favorite aspect of building model boats. Here are some tips for hard chine and round bilged hulls using planking or carving methods.� Plank-on-frame is often considered the most sophisticated form of model ship building. Another term, abused by the same offenders is "museum quality". If you read or hear that term, run the other way. The thinner the planking material, the better it takes a bend, and the less stress it puts on the structure as a whole. On the downside, thin material need more support, so more frames or bulkheads are needed and placed closer together. A close-up of a plank-on-frame model hull. Notice how the Model Ship Building Hull Planking On planks have a very subtle taper towards the end of each run. Sunday, April 28, Model Ship Building Hull Planking. The following video clip is a short sequence from modellers shipyard dvd on how to build a model ship (planking). the complete dvd is over 3 hours of narration & demonstration.. Model boat hull design notes � building tips for hard chine and round-bilged hulls using planking or carving methods. here is an attempt at demystify model boat hull design and construction. the hull is typically a big part of Model Ship Building Hull Planking Machines your model boat building effort, especially for scratch-building. One thought on �External hull planking�. patrizio at MASTERPIECE very very well-built you are a shipwright. Reply. Leave a Reply Cancel reply. Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *. Comment. Name *.

After days of deliberating, I installed the garboard strake. This line of hull planking starts at the sternpost, and tucks into the rabbet we cut into the keel. With that plank installed, I continued working up from the keel actually down, because the ship is mounted upside-down at the moment. I continued working on alternating sides, being sure to keep both sides even. Planking up from the garboard and down from the deck. After getting a few planks in, I resumed working my way down up from the deck.

The gap between my two sections of planks stared to narrow. The process slowed down quite a bit as I put in the planks near the sternpost. Since the stern near the rudder is vertical, it requires planks to twist considerably. Probably one of the bigger mistakes I made during planking. I was able to get all the planks in, but there are some dips and such where the curves get extreme.

Fortunately this is a painted hull, so I can patch things up with wood filler. Finished planking, prior to sanding or filling. The fully planked hull looks very rough.

Hopefully that is the case here. From this angle, the lighting really highlights how uneven some of the planks ended up. After the initial sanding, it is better, but there are still some notable issues. How good your planking needs to be at this point depends on the situation. With the first pass of sanding done, Model Ship Building Hull Planking Examples it is time to add wood filler and smooth out the hull. The practicum and many Bluenose build logs show a very generous amount of wood filler being applied. Sure, why not? One side gets covered in wood filler.

The amount seems excessive, but this is what the practicum does�. I applied a lot of wood filler. It looks crazy, but this is what the practicum does. To apply the filler, I used normal kitchen spatula. I made sure to scrub it and completely clean it before putting it back in the drawer. Or at least trying to sand it down.

It ended up taking days of sanding, starting with 60 grit sandpaper. It was a LOT of sanding. After spending days sanding and using up almost all my sandpaper, I finally got it sanded down and moved to the other side. I used a much lighter coat of filler on the second side and was able to easily sand it off in about 20 minutes. With both sides now filled, I have the hull a quick sanding, then did a little more patch-up work.

This time I added little bits of filler to specific areas that were still problematic. I let it dry, then sanded it back down. As a final pass, I have the hull a good sanding with grit, grit, grit, and grit sandpaper. After both sides have been sanded, filled, and sanded. Much better. It is remarkable how much better it is compared to the pre-sanding photos above. It is straight, even, and smooth. The curves toward the stern probably are not exactly as they should be, but they are close enough that nobody would notice.

The two sides of the hull match almost exactly. There are probably several spots that need a little more cleanup filler, etc. That will begin with spraying on some primer and sanding, which will make every tiny defect really obvious. Photos were taken by the author unless otherwise noted. All brands and trademarks referenced are the property of their respective owners. The Suburban Ship Modeler. Sanding takes hours. And hours. Previous Beginning to Plank the Hull.

Next Doing Some Planning.

Conclusion:

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