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21.04.2021, adminI've been outrigger canoe plywood about structure the easy vessel not outriggfr ago. I can see why. as well as typically aloft than. Since childhood, not the operate. ?230 US for?PDF recordsdata (Template curves stretched from grid measurements).
It's worth the time. Then cut out the deck, and glue on some blocks of wood to hold up the bulkheads, added in step 2. In the picture, the centerboard is sitting on top of the square pieces that will be used to join the bulkheads to the deck. The bottom of the hull only takes a very diffuse load, while the top of the deck has to take point loads your feet. This means the top should be thicks, and thus that it makes a better spine on which to build a keel-less boat.
Cut all of your planks and glue your bulkheads to the bottom of the deck. It is helpful if you cut out any holes you need in the deck say, for the mast and centerboard , before doing this. Make very sure that the bulkheads are centered along the axis of the boat. It wouldn't do to have a wobbly side on your boat.
Also make sure that your bulkheads are cut and sanded to within about a millimeter of your design spec. This comes in handy later in decreasing the amount of time you have to spend making things fit when they do not. If you complete this step with great care, everything else will just fit.
The mast box, the centerboard box, and backing plates for all deck hardware, need to be added before sealing off the bottom of the boat. It is easiest to do before the sides are glued on. If you plan to use stays, don't worry overly about the mast box. Just make a pile of plywood cutouts in the shape of your mast. In our case, the mast was a free aluminum pole, originally intended for the awning on a mobile home.
If you intend to have a freestanding mast, do the same thing, but make a lot of plywood cutouts, and be very sure that the whole thing is glued together tightly, and sealed off from water well.
The mast box can fill up with water when the boat capsizes, so don't make it any larger than it needs to be. The centerboard box is less important, Figure a good slope for your centerboard and build it. Both the mast and centerboard boxes should be supported by extra-thick bulkheads on either end, and should have extra bracing holding them on to these bulkheads. The picture of mast and centerboard box shown here was taken before some more stiffening blocks were added.
There is an added support between centerboard box front bulkhead and the mast box rear bulkhead, to help convey torque from one to the other and spread out the rather considerable load of the mast box. The backings for all deck hardware should be made of hardwood.
We used mahogany, because we had some scraps lying around. Also, add flotation! Pink foam works well. Since your sides are I hope at a slight slope from being perfectly vertical, they introduce a slight camber into the shape of the boat.
This is a good thing. You should have that camber from your previous calculations. Just prop up the deck until it has the proper camber, and drop the sides on. Some slight adjustments might be necessary a couple millimeters.
Then clamp, glue, and apply fiberglass tape along the joints. As a butt joint between pieces of quarter inch ply isn't particularly strong, I highly recommend that you reinforce all joints by a piece of inch or inch and a half fiberglass tape. This can be harder to fit, as the shape of the bottom planks is a bit stranger than the others, and thus harder to cut accurately in that is asymmetric and all sides are curved.
I spread it over the mating pieces with a cardboard squeegee, laid plastic over a scrap board, laid my plywood sandwich over that and nailed lots of nails through to clamp it all together. I left the nail heads high so I could pull them out later. Then I laid that whole thing in the sun to get hot and cure the epoxy.
When the epoxy was hard I pulled the nails out. While waiting for that to happen I made the stems. I ripped a cedar 2x4 lengthwise with a handsaw to make the two knife-edge stem pieces, then hewed the visible trailing edge to make it symmetrical.
You can see the machete marks from hewing the stems. Then I mixed more epoxy glue and glued and nailed the sideboards to the stems. Then I had a canoe with no bottom. I carried it into the sun to get hot and cure. By then I was too hot myself and needed a cure. I made a frozen banana smoothie with instant coffee in it. Then I forced the sides of the canoe out into the shape I wanted by jamming transverse sticks in.
I kept them from slipping by pounding nails through the canoe sides into the ends of the sticks. I put most of the curvature in the ends of the boat to give it a high prismatic coefficient and high buoyancy for its length. I flared the sides out sideways in preparation for the final shaping step. Thus I spread the top edge flared out wider than than the bottom edge. I used a I had to tie cords around the boat to hold some parts from springing out too much.
Then I nailed and glued the chine logs onto the bottom edge as seen here. I used a nail with the head cut off as a drillbit. When it got dull I pounded the tip with a hammer and filed it. Then I planed the chine logs smoth with my spokeshave to be ready for the bottom. Then I glued and nailed the bottom on.
Then I pulled the transverse sticks out of the hull and glued and nailed the gunwale strips on. While doing that I squished and tied the sides in so they are vertical in the middle. That bulged all the panels in a really nice way so the canoe is really stiff and strong.
Note the Kerfs little crosscuts in the gunwale strip and chine log. That enables the strips to be bent to the necessary curve without breaking.
The kerfs have to be on the inside of the curve or the stick will break even worse. Note the plentiful nails. I used lots because I didn't have enough clamps.
Plentiful dribbly glue squeeze-out is visible from the joints. My first few joints were too dry and not very good. After that I added less white flour to my epoxy and my joints got better. These are great. The ashtray looking thing in the bottom is the mast step. I carved the cup with a chisel and knife, glued and nailed the step in place.
There's another just like it in the stern to step the roof support post. All that just to make the pointy box with no lid seen here. I'm using some wrought iron chairs as sawhorses for my boatwork. Powell's dad Charles made them. They're very nice. Next I shaved the gunwales smooth. Then I glued and nailed the seat support strips 5" below the gunwales.
You could also call them inwale stringers if you wanted to confuse people. The seats are 6. They are thicker than necessary but that's what I had and I was too tired to plane them down. They're screwed to the stringers with brass screws and not glued.
Please note the butt block below the seat. It covers the joint where the 8 ft. You can see a hard bend in the gunwale on the left side your left of this picture. I broke it while bending, so the bend isn't graceful. At this point the shape of the canoe is finished.
It's 18" wide and deep, 12 feet long. All the panels are nicely bulged so the canoe feels really solid. You can' t "oilcan" it anywhere. If I'd made it a foot wider this would be a usable paddling canoe already. But I'm making an outrigger sailing canoe, so there are a whole lot of parts yet to make. Also called "breasthooks". Mast Sprit Sail sleeping deck paddles. I mixed up most of my remaining epoxy and squeegeed it into the bottom and other parts of the boat that I thought would get a lot of abuse.
I left a little epoxy for possible repairs. Then I bought a liter of linseed oil and soaked the rest of the boat with it. I put the boat in the sun to heat and soak in and cure as much as possible. It wasn't easy to find the linseed oil. It's used on the fancy carved swahili doors popular in the area. Then I bought a quart of white oil-based paint. It barely covered the canoe so I went back to Hussein Enterprises and bought a gallon.
Nathan and I had a great time painting the hull and outriggers. We got kind of dopey on the fumes. Two coats just about used up the paint.
The boat looked fabulous. When it rained that night the droplets just beaded up on the paint like a duck's dream. Caroline, Nathan's girlfriend, got to name the boat. She chose "NinaDave" after the household's two female mutthound puppies. Here's Nina or Dave eating dogfood Kenya style. It's "dog sausage", sausages made just for dogs, mixed with rice.
That's what dogs eat in Kenya, the lucky ones anyway. Fortunately the end of the stempiece had plenty of wood left on it, so I carved a puppy head figurehead there.
Having realized how much work remained, I hit the wall and started to despair. At that moment Sophie the maid's boys got out of school for a holiday. Powell, Adam, Alex and George, ranging in age from 9 on down volunteered. After I showed them what was needed they started chopping away in a really methodical and careful way.
Mothers, young children NEED machetes. And they're ready. They're amazingly good craftsmen for their age. The first time I got a machete to play with I chipped my tooth with it. That tooth is still chipped. These kids had apparently seen enough machete blood already and chopped carefully. Before long the boat had more parts. Here Powell and Alex shape crossbeams and "clothespins". The paddles were quick to make and turned out really well.
To see video of how to make them, check out the cozy boat instructable. The rudder is pretty simple, just some boards glued and nailed like this. Then tied to the stern post of the canoe. It's strong and works really well. The tiller is just a longer stick tied to the top. That was the last thing before testing the canoe and didn't get much attention. Here's the foredeck. A rib under the middle of the deck makes it even stronger. The hole in the splash rail is the mast partner. Simple lightweight rowing skiff for one person and maybe a passenger based on the Goat Island Skiff.
Simple lightweight rowing skiff for one person and maybe a passenger or a couple of kids. Based on the Goat Island Skiff. I used to get enquiries about using the Goat Island Skiff sailboat hull for rowing. It does row well but blows around too much. Find out more about the plywood Rowboat Plan. Picnic boat, party boat, river-cruiser, camp aboard, mini home-away-from-home. Simple plywood construction.
Read more about the 27ft Venezia cruiser canal boat plan. OzRacer RV is the same small boat hull but with more space in the cockpit and is a slightly simpler build. These Boat plans are a modern boatbuilding course in a book. Capacity 1 adult and one child or maybe 2 adults. Find out more about the OzRacer RV. OzRacer Mk 2 has a centreboard for more performance but a bit less room for extra crew.
Three sheets plywood. Simple Plywood Boat Plans. Find out more. Download Free Oar and Paddle Plans from this page. The Kombi is the boat for this use pattern. Mast diameter will have to go up to 60mm to handle the greater stability from the outriggers. I would suggest setting up two spreader bars set the same distance apart as the outrigger crossbeams with the mounting points for the outrigger tie downs just behind the spreader bars.
I think it would be quite a satisfactory boat. I would definitely carry paddles as I suspect the tacking technique will be like a roll tack for the standard Kombi so it will spin fast. With the outriggers it may be a bit sluggish � or maybe it will be fine. Also there is a free supplement written for buyers of the outrigger plan to alter the crossbeam curve to match canoes with lower freeboard. That would match the Kombi too.
Single or tandem paddling rivers estuaries and such Sailing safe not high performance Fishing. When Viola appeared I thought this could be it? But a bit wide for paddling, a bit flighty and a bit heavy. The along came Kombi! And I already have your drop in outrigger plans�Perfect! Could you perhaps suggest a layout for a Kombi Tri including any hull mounting reinforcement.
As we age needs change and I am going to jury rig a couple of amas to the GIS this summer as a proof of concept experiment. The Kombi Tri I would build as a package , concept already proved. Thanks Wayne Fremantle. Storer, I am thinking about combining your drop in outriggers with either the new Combi or the Viola sailing canoe.
Has it been done? Your thoughts? Thanks, Gary Moore. If you have facebook, Thomas Newton made some changes that seem to have worked out well removing the need for the centrecase bulkhead and associated seat.
I am interested to learn how many plywood sheets go in 27ft Venezia and 35ft TC35 builds. And also the TC35 resulting hull weight estimate. Can you share on that? Is it available? Thanks in advance,. It can be tricky to find roof racks for some modern cars that can handle even the 70 odd pounds of the OzRacer RV hull. But if you can do that, then no problem. Really good stuff that simplifies everything considerably, especially in regards to point of sail.
The reason I chose the RV was purely for space reasons. Another question I had was in regards to whether the RV is suitable for roof rack transportation? Not having to buy a trailer would also cut down on costs :. But I would also have a careful look through the basics of my online lessons as they are closer to the state of the art than many sailing schools. There has started to be large difference between what is taught and what the best sailors are using. Also, have you considered the 12ft Oz Goose.
The biggest reason for choosing the shorter OzRacer 8ft is the storage after building. The cost is only a little more because the sail and everything above the decks and the fittings etc are all identical. Building difficulty and time is identical too � about an hour different actually. I then went down the rabbit hole and started digesting countless books, researched terminology and watched demonstrational videos.
This also seems like a great beginner boat. My big question however is would you recommend I take sailing lessons before building and sailing the RV? Hi Michael, Thanks for your prompt reply. I replied yesterday but had issues with my browser. Anyways a putt putt boat is fine and the ability to trailer the boat is paramount.
Getting down around southern moreton bay or the Noosa river, lake Cootharaba. Do you know of any builds in my neck of the woods, sunshine coast. Kindest Regards Tony. With the high thrust 10hp Yamaha it has substantial grunt. But despite the cabin you really need to think about it in terms of being like the old open Putt Putts.
There would be conditions that would be unwise to go out in, but plenty of conditions and parts of the bay that would be available as they are quite protected. It would start to get tricky heading up to the North part of the Bay parallel with Moreton Island with one of the strong North Easters. But down toward the South you would just pick the location relative to the water conditions on the same day. It will be a bit big as the wind gets stronger but sparkling performance in up to 12knots of breeze.
Might be exciting by the time the wind is at 15 and hard to sail in much more than that. Could trial it with the full rig and then get a local sailmaker to cut some sail off the bottom if it is too frisky and cut a similar length off the bottom of the mast. Another way, though not very good upwind would be to wrap the sail around the mast a few times when the wind gets up. Though the sail shape will become a big baggy for going upwind well.
There is also a supplement for the Eureka and other canoes as the freeboard can be a bit low for the drop in outriggers. I provide a drawing on request for making a mod and it also includes how to build the upper mast support into the front crossbeam. The plan itself is more like an instruction book for boatbuilding techniques to build the particular boat.
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