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01.07.2021, adminHenry Rushton in It was built for George Washington Sears popularly known by his pen name, Nessmuk. I had just finished building the stitch and glue kayak, which carried me to that island. The stitch and glue boatbuilding technique is not new. Fortunately much of the computational work is done by the computer. The plank lines from the design program are then brought into a computer aided stitch and glue boat building techniques vol CAD program and measured for layout purposes.
Planks are cut with a saber saw and small holes are drilled along each panel so they line up with the mating panels. The seams along the planks are filled with epoxy putty then the holes left by the wires are filled.
The hull is sanded down and sheathed in fiberglass. The composite of the plywood and fiberglass creates a sturdy and durable hull. No building forms or backbones are required saving the builder the time and material cost for that project. No special workshop is required. It is hoped that this article will help you understand the process more fully and help launch a quest for your own personal Sairy Gamp. The key to minimizing weight is having only as much boat as is necessary, less material means less weight to carry.
Nessmuk knew this well when he proposed building such a craft to Rushton who accepted the challenge. The result was named the Sairy Gamp, a marvel in ultra light construction. His gear and provisions weighed around 26 pounds. The hull measured 9 feet long, 26 inches wide and 6 inches deep.
It was made of lapstreak cedar and finished with oil and shellac. Nessmuk claimed it provided 5 inches of freeboard. It must have been highly maneuverable and its keel may have assisted tracking. The Sairy Gamp stitch and glue boat building techniques vol retired after one season of use and has been on display ever. In this age of Gore-Tex rain gear, carbon fiber paddles and titanium espresso makers I know few pound campers who can limit themselves to 26 pounds of gear even for a weekend trip.
Most paddlers today would be uncomfortable in a craft the size of the Sairy Gamp. Stitch and glue boat building techniques vol folks in Canoe Country tend to prefer boats which track well and get the best glide for their effort requiring a canoe with longer lines than the Sairy Stitch and glue boat building techniques vol. It is my perspective that the best boat stitch and glue boat building techniques vol is the one that suits your requirements most of the time.
When I design a canoe or kayak for someone I want to know about their previous paddling experience, what they expect to use the new boat for, their intended payload most of the time and their overall expectations. From this information, I begin with the essential design elements of displacement, length, width and height. There are many fine stitch and glue plans and kits available, however, many designs are intended to appeal to a broad range of buyers regardless of the intent of the design.
After extensive research, I bought plans for two different style kayaks. In both cases, given my weight pounds and anticipated payload I found both were more generous than I anticipated. Given the state of technology I felt I could assist homebuilders by providing exactly the set of plans they wanted had they designed it themselves for stitch and glue and wood strip construction.
It is a small niche to be sure, but my customers appreciate the fact that they can start building shortly after their plans arrive and they are getting exactly what they have in mind.
Most have done their homework, made comparisons and some have already built other boats. Freeboard is simply the distance from the top edge or sheer line of the canoe down to the waterline measured midway between the bow and stern often at its lowest point.
Freeboard is less relevant for kayaks as waves simply wash over their decks. In addition to freeboard, the waterline height measures how much of the hull is submerged below the water to the lowest point of the hull.
The total weight of the hull, the passengers and gear equals the weight of the displace volume of water. The greater the load, the lower the hull rides in the water and less freeboard is showing. The center height of the canoe is the sum of its submerged height and stitch and glue boat building techniques vol above water.
Few canoe manufacturers provide this information and instead may list a capacity which according to Winters is a meaningless number.
I give very high praise to the folks at Bell Canoe Works who provide us waterline and displacement measurements for comparison. To better illustrate the relationship between freeboard and displacement I will use the Bell Magic solo canoe as an example.
It happens to be one of my favorite products in their lineup. The Magic measures 16 feet overall length, has a center height of The optimal load is described as to pounds. But do you really want to? Will it be more than you need most of the time?
When I create a canoe design in wood I keep in mind exactly what the hull is expected to float and can usually reduce the overall height of the hull.
The reduction in height saves a considerable amount of weight for the homebuilder working with wood and fiberglass and makes it is possible to build solo boats comparable in weight to many commercial ultra lights. The Sairy Gamp gave five inches freeboard at its designed displacement. If you find you need more capacity in the future, build a new boat.
For the price of a new ultra light boat in the store you could afford to build three or four boats stitch and glue boats and still have enough left over to buy a pair of titanium sporks.
After each build, your technique will improve and the resulting hull will be lighter. Creating a shorter hull is another path toward weight reduction. A little creativity on behalf of the designer can make a shorter hull track better by placing a little less rocker in the stern than the bow. It helps stitch and glue boat building techniques vol the canoe less bulky to carry and store.
As a paddler is more experienced they gain a better sense of balance and will benefit with a narrower hull. A narrower hull stitch and glue boat building techniques vol less energy to push aside the water compared to a wider hull of the same length.
They can be narrow because the paddler sits on a seat that is just above the floor. Canoes are wider because paddlers sit in seats that are closer to the gunwale than the floor. Sitting higher creates a higher center of gravity. A wider canoe helps counter the momentum of a leaning paddler improving the sensation of stability.
I was rather surprised how stable a sea kayak felt when I first paddled one. I marveled at how easy it was to paddle in windy conditions given the little amount of freeboard.
Paddlers of stitch and glue boat building techniques vol boats sat close to the floor and used kayak paddles in canoes, which had low sides and were decked with wood or canvas. Today I paddle a low sided narrow open canoe and I sit on the floor with foam cushions and use a sea kayak paddle. I also have a sea kayak, a tandem Kevlar canoe a small sail boat and a few projects on the.
Adding a few inches to the side of Kevlar canoe design adds little material weight or cost to the design but it can greatly increase the range of paddlers interested in it.
Kevlar and stitch and glue boat building techniques vol fiber materials have allowed manufacturers to create canoes of immense capacity with minimal weight penalty. When a company claims a tripping canoe paddles as nice empty as fully loaded I want grab the copywriter by the ear and take them for a paddle on a stormy afternoon on Lake Superior and let them experience the difference first hand.
Although the claim may be plausible when the wind is dead calm, I can say with some authority that it always seems to be windier when paddling. While my Kevlar tandem is most excellent fully loaded it shows much too much freeboard when used empty with two paddlers.
It is excellent for its intended purpose the BWCA trip fully loaded but performance and enjoyment suffers the rest of the paddling season for which it is used most often, just one of the compromises we all must make. How do you decide what to look for in a canoe design?
I suggest first talking with experienced paddlers then stitch and glue boat building techniques vol out and try as many models you. There are no right or wrong answers and you will want to formulate some opinions as to what suits your needs.
Rather than getting too technical about canoe and kayak design, a few guidelines may be useful. Perfection is also in the eye of the paddler. What is suited for one will not be for. Rather than write endless comparisons regarding the minutiae separating design strengths and flaws I give you a few quick axioms for your consideration. I recall vividly fearing for my life in that Summersong heavily loaded with gear and whitecaps were building on Big Sag.
I truly expected to capsize but the fear gradually subsided when I realized the narrow hull was amazingly stable in the chop and I was rapidly pulling away from my two companions in the Kevlar tandem. I had to stop on several occasions to allow them to catch up. We were dodging from the lee side of one island to the next on our way to the narrows.
At first, I feared hitting those wind swept openings with the highest whitecaps, but I actually enjoyed riding the waves by the time we safely made the narrows. I learned how to lean it and brace with the kayak paddle and found it served quite well in the trout fishing rivers of Northern Wisconsin and Southern Minnesota. While a wide flat floor will feel stable, it will only do so in calm conditions. I learned that lesson in a short tubby aluminum Smokercraft tandem that we joked was as wide as it was long.
I drove up from the Cities and had the weekend to spare so the outfitter told me about the Freer chain of lakes in the Superior National Forest and I spent the rest of the weekend alone with my new acquisition. Stitch and glue boat building techniques vol paddled around and found a remote site and learned how to carve a turn and handle a big tandem solo. It was a handful when any breeze picked up. If your budget allows, always consider two solo boats for two people. My experience is that many folks buy a tandem only to find one person will want to paddle more frequently and a partner is not always available leaving the tandem unused.
The solo boat gives one the freedom to go paddling whenever and two solo boats give each person a degree of freedom eliminating any frustration with the person at the bow or the stern. In our BWCA trips, the solo boat is often the most requested. Especially on a long and windy trip, the solo paddler has nothing more to focus on than the next destination and the sights around.
Any stress of wondering if the other person is pulling their weight is nonexistent. The incremental cost of materials is practically insignificant.
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