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I will say that my aluminum trailer doesn't move, even with 10" I beams, no matter what the current is doing. There has to be something going on here, as I can't imagine this is how the manufacture intended the trailer to perform.

Thanks for everyone's comments. The trailer appears to be an I-beam construction. I have attached one of the better photos of the boat with the trailer.

The boat and trailer are currently in the shop and thus I am unable to get you a better trailer focused shot. However, you can see that possible air pocket locations could be the wheel wells, the skids, lights and tires. But aside from that I don't see what else could float the trailer like that. Looks like the i-beams, wheels and fenders could catch enough current to move this relatively light trailer.

I agree with the previous post. Maybe talk to a tire dealer who handles your trailer tires and discuss air pressures for the weight of your boat. Preferrably the manager or at least someone who knows more than just how to change your tire.

Might try making a temporary mount on the trailer to hang some weights once you get ready to dunk the trailer. Thinking gym weights or tractor weights. I'll see if there is a way to add weight plates that won't risk causing a hull breach and not damage the trailer.

Any suggestions on this before I go out with the drill, some weight and a vengeance? Try not backing the trailer in so deep. I had the same issue with my little boat and found if I kept the tops Aluminum Boat Trailer Floats In of the fenders above the water, the issue stopped! A lot of people tend to back in way to far and don't realize it's causing more issues. On my SSi with bunks, I cannot get the boat off the trailer unless I submerge several inches above the top of the fenders.

The boat acts like it is glued to the bunks. I have looked at adding teflon coated skids to the top of the bunks to ease the slide. If they work, then I would not have to back in so deep. If anyone has dealt with these devices, I would like to have their opinion on them. Don't suppose you have an option on ramps with less current? I had the same problem with my trailer on my ssi.

Simple solution I'd have the driver in the truck back down not quite far enough to get the boat all the way up. The after I pull the boat on far enough to keep the trailer from floating I have the driver back the trailer all the way down the ramp. Then I'd pull the boat the rest of the way up. What driver? You mean the Admiral?!! Sorry, Couldn't resist. You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Paste as plain text instead. Only 75 emoji are allowed. Display as a link instead. Clear editor. The paint, lightning, functionality and custom features make your trailers an ease to pull and something I am proud to have behind my vehicles.

Keep up the great work and I look forward to getting another new trailer in ! EZ Loader stays ahead of the curve with custom engineered technology and design, including 12 patents recognized and used industry wide. We build EZ Loader trailers to last with longevity, strength and integrity No other brand has the longevity of EZ Loader Committed to building one of the safest trailers on the road.

Trust the oldest name in the industry and still a leader in manufacturing, industry participation with NMMA and NATM, government affairs and coalitions with other industry. DOT approved strap, galvanized winch stand, UV protected blue bow roller.

Standard- Galvanized wheels, Radial Tires. Optional - Electric over hydraulic brake system. Optional - Kodiak disc brakes with life time warranted ceramic pads. Optional - Kodiak stainless steel disc brakes with life time warranted ceramic pads. Optional - Custom aluminum wheels, 14', 15' or 16'. Optional - Custom MAG wheels, 14', 15' or 16'. Optional -Custom MAG wheels, 14', 15' or 16'.

Optional - Stainless steel u-bolts, bolts and lock nuts for your aluminum trailer.

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