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For years I hunted the cypress swamps and flooded hardwoods of build your own boat duck blind key property like my father had before me: donning waders and parkas and leaning against a tree to erase my silhouette. We killed plenty of ducks that way. However, as the years wore on, standing waist-deep in swamp water while the temperature hovered below freezing was getting tougher than it once.

The decision to build a duck blind came after one of those frigid hunts in late January a few years. After I came to my senses, my friends and I drew up the plans that would eventually become the blind we still hunt today. Now, instead of sitting in the cold, a portable heater keeps me toasty while I lounge on a cushioned bench.

When the mallards are down in droves, our duck hole becomes my home away from home. No matter what type of terrain you hunt, locate food like duck potato, widgeon grass or acorns. Ample feed will attract waterfowl throughout winter.

Easy access to cover and wetlands, as well as low hunting pressure will ensure build your own boat duck blind key hang. Also, light shining into your blind will scare away every bird within gun range. If your honey hole has held ducks before, it likely will next year.

Often, habitat will fluctuate and ducks will always go where the easiest access to food and cover are. Consider the vegetation surrounding your presumptive location.

While in the spring and summer a blind may be hidden well, you could be exposed when build your own boat duck blind key leaves die off. Too much cover nearby can impede your view. Your hunting party will dictate the size of the blind. Six feet wide and 16 feet long will house four people comfortably with room to spare for one or two. Get creative. Design your project as big or small as you like. In any case, remember to use pressure-treated plywood and lumber, even on the interior, which should stave off rot for many years.

Typically, using four 4x4-inch posts braced with 2x8 cross beams is a solid foundation. Secure the foundation posts in the ground and, if the area is devoid of water, set the them in concrete for added stability. Frame using 2x4s surrounded by half-inch plywood walls, floor and roof. Adding dividers spaced across it, running from the roof to the front wall, will increase structural integrity and provide a space to attach vegetation when brushing.

Leaving a crack in the floor will allow water to drain. Cover the interior and exterior with olive drab or brown spray paint. The back wall should be higher than the front, providing enough headroom to sit without ducking. Slope the roof downward from front to.

Extend it over three-quarters of the blind, stopping two feet shy of the front wall, which should be shorter than the back to provide plenty of shooting room. Use the same plywood from the walls for a hinged door located in the rear. Attach woven metal wire covering the exterior to secure saplings and blades of grass with twist ties. Wait a week before the opener to cut any green vegetation to keep it fresh build your own boat duck blind key long as possible.

Also, covering the outside with olive drab or brown netting helps to further break it up. If the blind stands alone with little surrounding cover, brushing effectively is paramount.

To further break up the boxy appearance, drive posts into the ground near the blind and attach small oak or willow trees to. Dot them at build your own boat duck blind key heights and spaces, thus mimicking a thicket and giving your project a natural look.

The only thing missing was a bedroom. For most people, cushioned seats and room for a heater will suffice. Shelves lining the front wall are handy to hold extra boxes of shells, as well as a cup of coffee. Adding traction tape in strips to the floor can prevent any slips. For me, each opening day, build your own boat duck blind key year, yields the same result.

All of the hard work I put building and maintaining my home away from home over the years is manifested when that first group of ducks come barreling through the timber.

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It has four upright sections on the port and starboard sides that are attached to bottom and top rails with tee fittings for the two Build Your Own Boat Duck Blind 800 central uprights with degree bends on the ends. On the bow, stern, and rear upright sections, inline tees are located near the tops and face the interior of the boat.

Once he had assembled both the port and starboard side frames, he glued everything together with the exception of the lateral braces that fit into the inward-facing tees. When I am setting up the blind at the ramp, I fit the lateral support braces back into the tees. Using aerosol paints specifically formulated for use on plastics, he painted the framework. Then he attached the bottoms of the side frames to the aluminum boat seats using metal conduit clamps and self-tapping screws.

The clamps allow the PVC pipe frames to rotate freely so he can quickly collapse or erect the blind. Orth attached the top to the frame with zip ties and braces that extend down and rest on the seats. By changing the angle of the braces, he can adjust the height of the top. Orth attached green-coated wire garden fencing to the two side frames and top using zip ties.

To the garden fencing, he attached Speed Grass mats, also with zip ties. The Speed Grass extends beyond the bottoms of the side frames to the waterline. Speed Grass also overhangs the top like a fringe to help hide the hunters' faces. He hides the engine with a factory-made, camouflage cover. It is a little tricky trying to tell someone else how to do it in the dark, so I usually do it myself. Then I put them back in when I move back to the stern.

Orth keeps the boat stationary by tying it off between four green garden stakes poked into the lake bottom. He usually leaves them in place and puts a white bleach jug over them so he can find them in the dark. The great thing about using PVC pipe was Orth was able to fit all parts of the frame together and then take them apart before gluing everything together to make the final assembly.

The entire blind is so light two hunters have no trouble putting it on or taking it off the boat. To remove the blind after the hunting season, Orth simply uses a power drill to remove the screws holding the conduit clamps to the seats.

You might think PVC is not sturdy enough to make a durable blind frame, but Orth said he has only experienced two problems.

Once, he hit the dock with the blind and it broke one of the top sections and he used some camouflaged duct tape to make a temporary repair. Another time, a hunter lost his balance and grabbed the frame, cracking it near one of the tees, an easy thing to fix. Orth usually sets up close to the shoreline in order to blend in.

He said it is extremely effective. Colorado Front Range duck guru Tyler Baskfield walked me through the steps.

Carrying rolled-up pieces of carpet is easier than hauling plywood to his spot each year. All told, the blind will not only save you money, but also the time and energy required to build a more temporary setup.

These will form the front and back of the blind. Tip: Measure and cut the carpet before heading out to assemble the blind. The T-posts should rise 4 feet above the ground. Drive the fifth T-post on the side where you want the door, about a foot and a half from what will be the front of the blind. Tip: A post driver is handy for this step, but not entirely necessary. The best way to do this is to poke holes in the carpet with a knife and then thread the zip ties through, starting at the top of the T-post and working down.

Space the zip ties about a foot apart, running down the posts. Note: The dimensions of the carpet pieces above are slightly larger than the measurements of the blind, so you can trim and tighten as needed. This is a duck blind, not the Sistine Chapel�you just need to make sure each side of the blind is covered. Like with the zip ties, do this by poking holes in the carpet and threading the clamps through.

To ensure the boards are sturdy, use three clamps on each corner of the blind. You can tighten the clamps with a flathead screwdriver, but a drill makes the process faster. Mark the new measurements on your PVC pipes and cut through them with a hacksaw. Cutting your side pieces into smaller lengths lets you add side supports to your frame using T-connections so you blind is more sturdy.

If you want, you can cut the 3 pieces to size right away rather than cutting out the long pieces first. Glue the pieces back together using T-connections. Fit 2 sections of pipe into the side holes on a PVC T-connection so the top hole points up.

Add another T-connection to the end so the top hole points up, and put the third section in the side hole so you have a long horizontal pipe. Once everything fits, apply PVC cement around the end of each pipe section and push it back into the T-connection to secure it. Repeat the process with the other sections of pipe. A T-connection has 2 holes on the side and Build Your Own Boat Duck Blind Dog 1 on the top so you can join multiple pipes together.

Attach the PVC pieces to the sides of your boat with conduit clamps. Get conduit clamps that match the size of your pipes to ensure a tight fit against your boat. Hold the length of pipe against the inside of your boat about 6 inches 15 cm from the top edge.

Measure every 2 feet 61 cm along the length of pipe and make marks on your boat so you know where to place the clamps. Add 2 ft 61 cm vertical pipes into the T-connections. Push the end of each pipe into the top holes of the T-connections so they stand up vertically against the walls of your boat.

Mark each pipe so you know how far to push it in before applying PVC cement to the ends. Put horizontal PVC supports between the tops of the vertical pipes. Fit 4-way pipe connections on top of the vertical pipes so 2 holes run along the length of the boat and 1 hole points toward the opposite side.

Use the measurement you took for the inside width of your boat to cut 3 sections of pipe to fit between each side of the frame. Push the ends of each pipe into the Build Your Own Boat Duck Blind Videos 4-way connections on top of the vertical supports so they span the width of your boat. If you ever want to take your frame apart, remove the horizontal connections to fold the pipes into your boat.

Install a top rail to the frame. The top rail uses the same size pieces as the bottom pieces of your frame. Take your length measurement from earlier and cut out 6 new sections of PVC pipe with your hacksaw to fit between the 4-way connections. Push the new pipe sections into the 4-way connections so they span the length of the boat and support your frame.

Method 2 of Screw U-shaped metal brackets in the 4 corners of your boat. Place your first bracket on top of the frame in the back of your boat near the motor, and drive a screw through it to secure it. Put the second bracket directly across from the first one on the opposite side of the boat. Place the last 2 brackets at the front of your boat before it starts to narrow, and screw them in so they run parallel with the back brackets.

Cut 4 pieces of metal conduit that match the inside width of your boat. Measure the distance between the center of one of your brackets to the opposite inside edge of your boat. Secure a pipe cutter onto the conduit on your mark and rotate it completely around.

Keep rotating the pipe cutter until it makes a clean cut, and continue until you have 4 pieces that are the same length. Drill holes in one end and the center of each conduit. Use a drill with a bit meant for boring through metal. Measure in 1 inch 2. Then, find the midpoint of each conduit and drill another hole through the pipe. Attach the conduits to the brackets with nuts and bolts. Test pivoting the conduit up and down in the bracket to make sure it moves smoothly.

Attach the rest of the conduits to the other brackets.

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