$@# Fiberglass Boat Building And DIY Guide &^@!

Ship and Boat Model Kits
The most basic form of scratch-built ship modeling is the solid hull technique that we demonstrated on our page Creating a Solid Hull Ship Model. While the method demonstrated there � using a solid block of wood to create the hull for a 19th Century William Doughty-designed revenue cutter � works well for smaller models, a solid block of wood large enough to build a bigger model will be either hard to find, or prohibitively expensive. Looking for tools for model shipbuilding? Check out the Model Expo Storefront. In this article we will discuss the popular method of scratch-building a solid hu. Stability of ship models hull is the most important criterion of quality. Often modeler sees in winter the hull which was planking in summer appear sufficiently large slit between the planks. Gap may disappear next summer or may be even greater. Because of this modeller has to go to extreme measures - to remove the trim, strengthen body and sheathe again. To prevent such a phenomenon should modeller at the design stage hull design to provide long-term stability.� This figure shows the cross section of the model's hull on a building berth. Building berth is a plank suitable size. Each frame is fixed to a pair of building berth self-tapping screws. Such a construction has sufficient rigidity and ensures dimensional stability during planking. Building the hull correctly will determine the final shape and appearance of the model. In your kit you will find a number of plywood sheets with the laser cut parts. Use the kit�s plans and instructions to identify and number each part on the plywood sheets with a pencil.� It cannot be emphasised too strongly that the fairing process is the single most important step in building a model ship of which you�ll be proud. Take your time with this process. We will now consider the shaping of the deadwood area.

We continue the model boat hull carving from part one where we prepared the block and cut out the profile. Now begin shaping the model boat hull. Start out by roughing in the bow and the stern. For bigger hulls an angle grinder with grit flapper discs can work well. Regardless of tools, always cut from the middle of the hull towards the ends to avoid splitting. Go easy as you are getting closer and stop when you are about a millimeter away from a perfect fit. This way there will be material left for a final polish.

As you progress, move on to the next station towards the ends and do the same thing. With due effort, the hull will take shape nicely. At this point you should be about 1mm away from having the templates fit.

Always back up the sandpaper with a block or dowel for better control and support. Try with the batten at a few more imaginary lines parallel to the waterline and fix any high spots. Alternate sides, left and right and smooth out as you go. Once the hull seems smooth, go over the stations once again with the pencil. Try and be a little neater this time. These two illustrations are taken from the plans of a French cutter from the 19th century.

As seen on the profile, the deck line has a distinct concave curve to it as it spans from bow to stern. In the cross section we notice there is convex curve to the deck, a crown, or camber as it is correctly termed. This saddle shape is still to this day the most common, regardless of ship type. On large ships, the deck shape is much less pronounced.

If you are building a large ship to a small scale you can ignore the camber. Now hold up each template to the hull at their respective stations and transfer a pencil mark where the deck line should be. If you intend to plank the deck with strips of wood, make sure you deduct the thickness of those planks so the finished deck has the right height. Connect the deck line pencil marks with a solid line using a batten. You may need to connect a few at a time and work your way along the hull.

At the end you should have a smooth line marking the line of the deck on either side. The cuts are best made from the ends at shallow angles towards the center line of the hull. Be careful to stay at least 1mm away from the deck line we drew up. Keep going until the crest of the camber at the widest station is about right.

Just like we did for truing up the model boat hull sides - use a batten along the center line and sand down any high spots. Do the same at a couple of places on each side of the center. Return to Part One - preparing the wood block. Part Three - fitting keel, stem, sternpost and rudder.

Part Four - planking the deck and fitting gunwales. Return to Model Boat Hull Design. Return to Homepage. Copyright Building-Model-Boats. Trademarks belong to their respective owners. A step-by-step "how to" on ship model hull carving. Most commonly used for static display models, but easily adaptable for fiberglass masters or even toy boats.

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