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Your garage is a warehouse, a toy shop, a workshop, and maybe even your favorite place to hang out. This collection of great space saving tips will help you maximize your garage space. How do you store your SUP's? The Elevate Outdoor deluxe kayak and canoe storage hoist safely keeps items cluttering your garage off the ground by securing to the ceiling. This universal hoist system is designed to work with nearly anything, including bicycles, stand up paddleboards, ladders, and even shop tools.
The hoist secures to the ceiling of your garage or shed with durable steel powder coated mounting brackets. If the canoe is 20 inches wide, add 24 to 35 inches for a total of 44 to 55 inches. Shorter outriggers will provide less stability, but will be stronger and flex less. Attach two degree, 1-inch PVC elbows to the ends of the pipe, facing downward.
Clean the ends of the pipe and the inside of the elbows with PVC cleaner, then apply glue generously to both and push them together. The cement will set in a few minutes. Glue two PVC "T'" pipe joints perpendicular to the pipe so their openings will run parallel to the sides of the canoe. Cut two to inch long pieces of Styrofoam swim noodle. Use the kind with the hole down the center. Put a lengthwise slit in the center of each noodle, halfway through to the center hole for inserting the pipes into the "T's.
Cut four to inch long segments of 1-inch PVC pipe. Clean and glue two segments into the rear facing openings of the "T's. Clean the other open end of the "T" and one end of the remaining pipe segments.
Push the segments of pipe you just glued into the center slit of the Styrofoam noodles and push the pipe forward through the hole in the middle of the noodle till it pokes out the end. Tek screws are great because the built-in washer under the head holds the two bits of ply together very well. I removed and reused these after the glue dried. I put long cleats about mm below the top of the hull to support the 50 mm x 15 mm wooden seat slats.
Each seat slat was shaped differently and fitted individually. The seats are part of the hull strength and I screwed and glued them into place.
When the glue had dried, I removed the screws and replaced them with dowels. There are almost no metal parts on this boat other than the stainless hooks on the ama or outrigger for assembly and towing eyes.
Doubler for joining is clamped while glue dries. Seat slats are glued and screwed, then dowelled, to long cleats. Temporary customwood frame is screwed in place at each end. Ends The next sheet of ply has two mm-wide strips mm long cut from its length. Here is the cunning part of the hull that forms the style of the waka � each mm-wide strip is cut in half at the mm mark with a degree cut.
This cut defines the bow shape. If the cut is slightly concave, the bow, when fastened together, will have a clipper bow shape. If the cut is slightly convex, you will have a rounded bow shape. I prefer the classic sloping bow so made the cut at 45 degrees in a straight line. These bow pieces are glued onto the doublers at the end with the long side at the top, then screwed in place and the glue allowed to dry.
Then I pulled the bow strips together and cable-tied or wired the bow and glued it. If you decide on a clipper bow, that may require a bit more force to form the shape. While the bottom of the hull in the middle has been fixed, the bottom at the bow and stern needs to be installed. I placed the middle hull with the empty bow shapes onto a piece of ply and marked the inside bow shape on the ply with a pencil.
This is cut out and glued onto the doubler and held in place with temporary Tek screws to be removed when the glue dries. It is then cable-tied or wired and glued onto the sides. The same is done at the other end and so the hull shape is defined. I installed two mm-long broom handles that protruded about 60 mm out each side of the hull at the joins. These protruding sections became the hooks for the car-tube rubber bands binding the outrigger beams or spars to the hull.
The temporary frames could now be removed. Finishing The hull is finished by cutting strips of wood about 12 mm x 12 mm which are glued around the top of the hull inside and out to form a coaming. I have heaps of G-clamps so I used these, but they could be screwed in place inside then outside the hull.
I used short pieces of wood that are easier to handle. Because there is a lot of lamination going on, joins are not a problem and make the job easier. The coaming rounds off a harsh shape on the hull with a good look. My favourite tool when boatbuilding is a small disc grinder with a medium-soft flexible disc.
I put 20 mm x 5 mm plastic, rubbing strakes down each side on the chine to the bow and stern joins. Another strake was fastened to the bow and stern sections down the middle to the join.
Note there are no bulkheads in the hull. This permits the bilge water to flow easily from one end to the other. A couple of rocking movements back and forward and the craft will be bailed out. The boat remains stable when swamped because it is a multihull. Make sure when finishing off with handles or other small, spreader-like attachments for handling the boat that you allow space in the bottom of the hull for storing and transporting the ama and outriggers.
Strips of wood glued make the coaming. Short spreader is near front to allow room for paddles and outrigger to slip into the canoe for carrying. Outrigger The beams or spars to the ama outrigger float are 50 mm x 50 mm knot-free timber about 2. I cut a clear x 50 mm piece in half with the skill saw. The ama was a second-hand mm-diameter plastic sewer pipe, 2.
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