Diy Fiberglass Boat Console Test,Ice Fishing Tent Bag 70,Deep V Fishing Boats For Sale Near Me Qr - Step 1
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Get clickin' and start dreamin'. Mark42 Fleet Admiral. Joined Oct 8, Messages 9, The guy said he's had it stored in his barn for 5 years, and it has been stripped,but the hull is sound. He wants me to 'make him an offer', but did say he got it for free. The only thing is finding something to tow a 33' boat. Guess I'd figure that into the cost of the package. Although, I could just have someone tow it to the lake for me and wet slip it for the summer. Especially if it has a working trailer for a 33'boat.
BTW, to repower a 33' boat, you are talking some serious horsepower. Or if its setup for outboards, it will need two or better outboards. Just be aware it will cost a lot more to power that boat than you will spend on a rebuild.
On top of the K it will cost in power, figure burning about 20 to 40 gallons an hour at top speed. I looked through the free want ads yesterday, and I'm going to look at an old Coast Guard boat with a 33' hull this morning.
Joined Aug 12, Messages Joined Jun 8, Messages Joined Jun 28, Messages 1, It's a lot of work fairing the hull, but when it's done, it will work just fine.. Bondo Moderator Staff member. Joined Apr 17, Messages 67, What about taking an existing hull, flipping it over and and making a mould from it? I looked into building a boat from scratch extensively. I found the least expensive way to build a 17' to 19' off shore capable boat is by 'stitch and glue'.
If you really want to build a boat, get a junker with a good hull, completely gut the boat and build what you want. Joined Jun 25, Messages 1, Of course I realize there would be a lot of finishing such as sanding and gel coat afterwards, Check that the sink drain and other through-hull hoses connect properly to a through-hull fitting with a seacock valve. On rough waters, poorly secured china, dishwashers, and other appliances can become projectiles.
Freezer and refrigerator doors should not have hinges on the stern side to prevent them from opening when the boat is on a plane.
The stove, propane storage, sink, faucet, and other appliance should be installed, working, and well secured. Also, inspect the sleeping accommodations, doors, furnishing, latches, and drawers. Examine the air conditioning and entertainment systems for proper installation and operation. Are the lockers secure enough to keep their stores from spilling on rough waters? You want your lockers to be roomy, stable, and secure for every circumstance.
Check that the engine hatch opens easily and vent hoses should be free. The engine numbers must match those on the contract. You also need to inspect the drive train and every other accessible component. Check that the height of the exhaust risers is above the waterline to prevent back flooding. It should also be fastened securely with proper support. Examine the exhaust for holes as this can allow water and exhaust gas into the interior space and bilge of the boat.
Also, check that the engine coolers are working properly and the raw-water intake hoses are double clamped on each end. If it smells burned or has water, there might be a crack in the engine block. Milky slimy oil indicates serious engine problems. The propeller shafts should be straight and true. They should be sound, sturdy, and have strong support. If the boat has an inboard prop, check that the distance between the hull and each tip is the same. Inspect for water seepage in the rudder and check the hinges for wear and looseness.
A good way to check for low fluid or leaks in the steering wheel is to turn it from lock to lock. You want the rudders to turn fully to their stops. The hydraulic steering pump should be the ideal size specified by the manufacturer.
All DC gear should come online and offline when you turn the main battery switch on and off. The automatic bilge pumps are the only gear that should stay on. A battery that has been idle for over two months could have lost over 35 percent of its charge.
Also, check that the alternator is delivering adequate power to the battery. And test the battery charger to make sure it delivers the proper charging voltage. Check to make sure that all electrical installations comply with sound practices and safety requirements.
The automatic bilge pump should work when the DC power is turned off and come with a manual override control. Test every control system that provides vital information about the vessel for improved situational awareness. Check strainers, screens, and hoses for cracks, brittleness and leaks. Damp or moldy smell and water Diy Fiberglass Boat Console 30 stains or puddles may indicate a leak somewhere in the plumbing system.
Is the head and holding tank accessible, or do you need to unscrew parts of the boat to empty it? You want the system to have a Y-valve so you can disable the direct discharge option while in port.
Whatever you do, make sure the head or holding tank is easy to clean and large enough for the number of people who will spend time on the boat. Inspect and test to make sure the automatic fire suppression system is installed and working properly. Find out the quantity, size, and type of fixed fire extinguishers on the boat.
Make sure they comply with Coast Guard and local requirements. The boat should have visual distress signals, navigation lights, and audible signals. Smoke detectors, carbon monoxide detectors, personal floatation devices, and first aid kits should also be available. This is just showing you how to get there! Later I may post my finished console when on the boat. I decided to try a few different ways at this. My first attempt with forming plexi-glass did not work out, so I decided to use wood covered with fiberglass.
Hot glue Lots! Now you have to get an idea of what you want your console to llok like. Search the internet for pictures of an idea you like. Draw out your face on the Diy Fiberglass Boat Console Time 1" board and trace the gauges, fish finder or whatever is going to be on it. Cut it out and check to make sure everything fits.
I personally didn't worry about the steering wheel yet, that can come later. After you have drawn it, cut it out. I also painted the bottom with a sealant. Make sure the front face has about a 15 degree angle off the bottom, you don't want it straight! You can cut out 85 degree gussets to hold the face if you want, personally I just screwed the bottom to the facer at a 15 degree angle.
This will require the small piece of wood parallel to the facer. It needs to be as wide or you can taper it down so it goes from wide to small. You can now fasten it to your bottom section across from your facer. When that is done the piece of wood that slopes down to connect the facer and the back brace needs to be made. I cut mine so that it was the same width all the way down and screwed it at the highest point of my facer plate before it curves down like in the picture.
You will see in the next step if your confused. This is just a picture giving you an idea of what it should look like so far. You can see every angle here if your a little lost. Remember this is an idea, your can look however you want. This stuff bends quite easily so I started at the facer piece and worked my way around screwing it to the bottom piece every few inches until it reached the small back piece.
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