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Slick Whoopie Slings for Sailors. The Many Faces of Tiller Extensions. Build Your Own Boot Dryer. Sailboat Steering System Check-up. Simple Tips for Maintaining Stainless Steel. Bilge Pump Installation and Maintenance Tips. October 26, Measure, Cut, Glue and Repeat. Bottomless Lockers Be Gone. Online Help for Autumn. Often an old sail won't hold stitches, and some sailors hate to sew. A number of products proved strong enough and flexible enough to make serviceable repairs.
In Stitch-free Sail Repair, see November we reviewed repair tapes, epoxy, polyurethane, and a few other common adhesives for usefulness as no-sewing options for sail repair, and in September we reviewed options for Sunbrella repair. After two years in the Maryland sun, the rankings have changed�.
A companionway slider and hatch boards are the most common type of cabin entry on sailboats. Its seaworthy, lightweight, and inexpensive. Unfortunately, you can't leave the hatch open when its raining without getting water below.
Swapping the hatch boards for a hinged door is a popular upgrade, but in many boats there simply isn't space for an opened door. The fastest way to attach light hardware to a cored deck is a self-tapping screw. It is also the Diy Inflatable Dinghy Cover Up fastest way to have hardware Diy Inflatable Dinghy Cover Dog rip out of the deck and end up with a wet core and delaminated deck. But how to replace screws that have gotten loose or prevent a wet deck in your future?
One method is to drill and over-sized hole, remove some core, fill the enlarged hole with epoxy, and then replace them with small through bolts see Spreading the Load Practical Sailor, August But what if the backside is inaccessible? Can we create an improved repair by filling and reinstalling a self-tapping fastener, without major surgery? What sealing and filling material is best? My pal Jimmys inflatable dinghy sprung a leak. It was a simple repair.
He hoisted the boat aboard, put a wire wheel on his cordless drill and began scuffing the surface in preparation for gluing. Seconds later, a two-inch strand of wire had pierced his cornea and he was on the way to the Northern District Hospital in Luganville, Vanuatu. After battling infection for several weeks and follow up treatment in Australia, he got most of his sight back. Multifunction display manufacturers have pushed their products through a dramatic evolution in the last five years as they try to keep pace with technology that we take for granted in our other electronics.
Better interfaces, screen resolution, and the ability to download useful software apps beyond navigation are just some of the improvements. Most of the major vendors are on their third generation of touchscreen interfaces, higher resolution displays, downloadable software, remote music control, and other functions far afield of what MFDs performed five years ago.
We recently tested shear strength of many caulks on many different materials and delivered a few tentative recommendations See Marine Sealant Adhesion Tests, December Here is the two-year follow-up focusing on resistance to weathering, dirt, and mildew, as well as the ability to maintain a good bond above the waterline when flexed.
This is one of nearly a dozen similar tests that weve done in recent years. Be sure to see the online version of this article for links to previous reports covering other key characteristics underwater bonding, sealing teak decks, sealing hatch glazing, etc. Insulation is a greater energy-saving expedient; if our heater or air conditioner is undersized, fixing drafts, shading or insulating windows, and insulating non-cored laminate are all ways to reduce the thermal load.
An amount twice the length of your dinghy is likely plenty, with some left over. The first thing I learned was making a pattern or template exactly the size and shape you want the cover to be saves a lot of time in the end.
You'll use the pattern to cut the fabric. Any number of materials, such as old newspapers, brown wrapping paper, or a discarded or used plastic tarp, can be employed for the purpose.
But Tom came up with the idea of using old nautical charts. Sacrilege, I know. As you mold the paper around the curves of your dinghy, use masking tape or duct tape to hold it in place. I made cutouts for the handholds and other openings exactly where they should be placed. Where the paper crossed the transom, I made a slit so it continued to drape over the tube, but I left the last bit of cone to work on later.
Once I was satisfied with the pattern, I divided it into five manageable sections using a marking pen, labeling each section carefully: bow, starboard 1, starboard 2, port 1, port 2, as well as "inside" and "outside" for each piece, and arrows where the pieces join together to help us to match them up later. This saved confusion when we were cutting the final pattern pieces. After removing the patterns from the dinghy, we turned them over and taped the reverse sides of the joints to ensure nothing shifted as we worked.
With the individual pattern pieces laid out on a flat surface, we cut along the lines that we'd made earlier. Tyvek paper, available from home stores, is perfect for making patterns. It's super strong and easy to cut with scissors and won't tear, even with rough handling. I used a ruler and a pencil and drew them directly onto the fabric. Thus, each pattern piece was enlarged to allow for seams, hems, and drawstring pockets.
Our inflatable has a protruding gunwale around the outer edge of the dinghy, providing a natural place for the drawstring. To avoid confusion about which piece of material joins what, I used a pencil to lightly label each piece of fabric on the underside. At this stage, I didn't cut out the holes for handles and other fittings, as I wanted to trial fit first. Next, I sewed the sections together using heavy duty, UV-resistant thread and a heavyweight needle, size When completed, I laid the cover on the dinghy for a preliminary fitting.
If doing this solo, you'll need to determine how wide you want to make your inside hem and the outside hem that will be the drawstring pocket. For the outside hem, I found it much easier to sew the drawstring into the hem as I went along rather than threading it through later. With the majority of the sewing completed, I had another fitting to make sure all was well. When everything was lined up, I marked the locations of all the openings for handles, D-rings, and so on, and made slits to pull them through.
I used a pencil and ruler to mark the exact size and shape of each opening, and then I made the cuts. I edged the openings with seam binding. I found the inside edge of the cover didn't quite fit the contour of the inflatable, requiring cuts to be made in the fabric on both the port and starboard sides.
I then sewed gussets into those areas. Finally, I made a paper pattern for the two outer rounded cones, placed it on the fabric, and cut it in the same manner as I did for the cover. I added darts to make the fabric fit the compound shape of the cones.
Finally, I sewed white webbing to the edges for a finishing touch. To allow the inside of the cover to be tightened down and secured to small D-rings on the inside edge of the inflatable, I placed three grommets along the white webbing on both sides. Once the cover was in place, Tom drilled a small hole into each side of the transom so the drawstring could be cinched tight and then pulled through the holes and secured on a small cleat on the inside of the transom.
Tom Morkin and Liz Tosoni quit their jobs in to set off from Vancouver aboard their foot ketch for what was supposed to be an month cruise. They never went back. Since then, they have sailed to about 50 countries, completing their circumnavigation in They are now "part-time cruisers," sailing the Sea of Cortez during the winter months and living in their home on Vancouver Island the rest of the year.
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