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The axle is made of 40x40mm RHS. Following normal practice, I tack-weld the parts fi rst, moving through the whole trailer to ensure that it is all square and all the measurements agree. When the trailer has been fi nished and assembled I do a full weld on everything I Flat Bottom Boat Trailer 3.0 tack-welded. The components that I can dismantle, I take to the bench to weld. Rubber is better for boat trailers because of the contact with water.
This arrangement is better than a lip seal, because the water pressure comes on the rubber seal and closes it effectively. You could go to wheelbarrow hubs and wheels if you want to � the boat the trailer will carry is fairly light. The smaller wheels would be good enough, and would be okay if you were going only from bach to beach, or not very far.
If you want to travel on a public road you have to get it warranted, of course. The way I have built this design is up to warrant standard. The springs come with three leaves, for a kg rating, but I have taken one leaf off because I feel that the springs are too heavy. Ordinary domestic trailers need stronger springs as they can carry all sorts of different weights. If some people want to load the boat up with gear when towing it for the holidays, they might like to keep on all the leaves that come with the springs as standard kit.
Begin with the 3. Pre-drill a hole in the end of the 50x50mm RHS for the safety chain to be bolted into the drawbar, not welded. Mark the holes through the coupling onto a mm-long piece of 80x10mm flat steel and tack-weld this coupling plate onto one end of the drawbar. Square up the coupling plate which is tack-welded. Then put the main beam on two jacks or similar supports so that you can work on the frame.
With the frame on the main drawbar or beam, I can get the measurements correct all round for frame, axle and springs. Mark the mm-long angleiron cross-members at the centre. Square up the angle iron on the main bar. Mark and then drill holes on either side of the centre point to fi t the U-bolts which will clamp the front and back angle iron pieces on either side of the 50mm drawbar. The back angle iron then has four holes drilled on either side of the main drawbar for the chine rollers.
The extra holes allow the chine roller assembly to be moved to suit different boat hulls. Measure 50mm in from each end of the angle iron, and then mark the holes using the fi xing plate which comes as a kit with the chine support roller assembly. This is a U-fi xture on a long bar that is clamped by the plates through the holes in the angle iron.
The distance between the front and back cross-members in the frame is determined by the length of the springs. In this trailer, the measurement is mm length from front spring hanger to back slipper. The RHS is placed in-between the angle iron cross-members to hold the angle iron in place. I move the RHS out 20mm Small Flat Bottom Boat Trailer 10 or so sideways away from the mounting brackets for the mudguard.
It also takes the RHS away from the chine holes. Check the frame for square. Clamp it and tackweld the frame. I put the frame on the bench to tack weld the slippers and springs on. Put the frame back onto the main bar and prepare the axle. I found it was mm. I added 20mm each side for the clearance to the wheel. The total was mm, so I cut the steel for the axle at that length. Get the centre at mm half of Use this to measure back for the holes drilled in the RHS for the locator pins, which are in the centre of the springs.
The distance between these locator pins is mm. Half is mm, so the locator holes in the axle will be drilled in the axle at mm out from the centre at mm.
Measure mm and check the chalk marks against the spring locator studs. Fortunately, the holes I drilled in the wrong place in the axle could be used for the weld which is melted into the stub axle. Drill 16mm holes in axle at the spot markedfor the spring locators. I used the holes I drilled incorrectly first, to fill with weld to hold the stub axle.
Otherwise I would have filled those holes in. The axle is being put under the springs this time rather than on top as with the previous trailer.
When the weight goes on and the axle moves up with the springs, it would hit the towbar. Assemble the wheel and hubs temporarily according to the kit instructions, and check that the clearance between edge of the frame and tyre is correct�20mm. Also, check that the mudguard is in the correct place by holding it over the wheel at this point. Now I weld the stub axle into the RHS axle. Push the stub axle in and hold it square.
Weld the plug in the axle hole to hold the stub axle in. Because I have taken one leaf off the spring, the bolt through the leaves is now too long. I cut off the extra thread on the top of the spring with a cutting wheel.
This allows the axle to sit down properly on the spring locator. I place the axle on the spring locator studs under the springs and bolt it in place to the plate above the spring with 40mm U-bolts. Put the wheel back on temporarily to position the mudguards. I place a block of wood with a 70mm clearance above the tyres to get the height of mudguard I want. That looks better than 50mm clearance which would also be possible.
Ensure the flat bottom boat plans allow for the correct size of outboard motor necessary to achieve desired speeds. Many 15 ft. As you can imagine, this will move a flat bottom boat across any calm waters with speed to spare.
Factor in building material and weight when selecting plans to build a fast flat bottom boat. While aluminum and fiberglass are the lightest materials, equating to greater speed potential, they are also the most expensive, and potentially more difficult to work with because it requires welding, molding and shaping skills.
Wood and steel are also options. Steel is the least attractive for speed, because of the weight issues. Wood, however, will retain the capability of speed and make for easier, less expensive construction.
Look for flat bottom boat plans that allow for contact with the designer, or other resource. While flat bottom boats are easier to build relative to other boat building because there is an emphasis on speed, it will be valuable to have an industry professional available to confirm engine size and specs relative to the chosen building plan.
Budgeting the building of any boat is important, however home made flat bottom boats tend to be extremely affordable. Of course, that does not include the time spent building. But for many, this is time well spent. Tim Brugger has been writing professionally since His fiction has also been published online.
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