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plank bending | Wood | Soldering It can be a difficult process to build a realistic scale model ship using wood. Each wood plank placed onto the ship's hull must be carefully bent into shape, following the curves of the ship that are created by the ship's ribs. Bending wood for model ships requires preparation. Once wood has been sufficiently. Feb 10, �� I also bought from Model Expo an electric plank bender. Between the wet plank and the heat from the iron using the shaping jig that comes with the bender it makes for fairly quick and accurate bending of the planking. Hope that is a help to some of the newer members of the ship building . Nov 26, �� Day Three months after adding the black strake and wales, I finally got around to planking the hull. I had been putting hull planking off for quite some time. Hull planking is kind of a 'make or break' moment for the build. If it turns out badly, the model won't look right. The hull.
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I'm using this Gorilla Glue that has been great for all my work that requires more time to position things than Cryo allows--and that goes double for planking. The great thing about this glue is that the instructions actually tell you to wet one of the wooden surfaces to be joined, as the water helps in the curing.

Then I apply a bit of glue there, as well as the other 18 frames back to the stern and then use a 1mm nail brad to affix the end of the plank to the kingpost. Then I work my way aft, pre-drilling one or more holes, pushing in the nail brad with needle-nose pliers, and continuing the process until it's firmly attached to the frames. I push the nails in all the way except the heads, which I leave sticking up so I can grab them with the pliers the next day and remove them. So far, this thing looks great after sanding down the irregularites and is rock solid.

My second layer of planking will be applied differently since I won't want to leave nail holes in the finish layer. I haven't worked with the contact glue before so I'll have to practice up beforehand. Post a Comment. Don't Give Up The Ship!! Changing the scale of your plans? Wood for your model ships? A Man' s lifelong hobby Problem with resin kits? Friday, October 13, How to bend wood for a model ship. Hi Started a project on your hull but is having trouble bending the wood for hull?

Here's a few great suggestion.. The best method to use depends upon the dimensions of the stock, and on the degree of bending required. In general, wood should be pre-bent; if it is simply "wrapped" onto the model the resulting tension can easily tear the model apart after a few years. Instead, use one the methods listed below to pre-shape the wood; fasten it after it has "set" and holds the shape by itself. First of all, you'll have better luck if you chose your stock so that the grain runs lengthwise I've frequently found commercial strips to be severely cross-grained at some point, perhaps with the grain as cut from a board near a knot.

A thick or complicated shape may be easiest to form by carving it from the solid -- perhaps laminating the solid from a number of pieces so the grain tends to follow the final curve I use this technique for sailing ship head-rails, which can be a half-circle in some cases. You can also laminate a piece from a number of thinner pieces bent to a former -- the thinner the individual wood pieces, the easier they are to bend, an the necessary thickness is achieved by gluing these side-to-side over a form This method is frequently used to make "mast hoops" by wrapping a glue-coated plane-shaving around a waxed dowel and then slicing off the hoops when it has dried.

Wood can also be bent more easily if it is wet or hot or both. Simply soaking a strip in water will make it more pliable. If you then bend it to shape, and let it dry out it will "spring" back only a small amount. Hot water works better than cold. Wood is a "plastic" material, and thus can be deformed under heat or as a result of chemical softening.

Many people use household ammonia for this purpose instead of soaking in water -- if you can bear the smell. For many people the first hurdle you need to overcome is planking the model ships hull. Here Master Modeler Leon Griffiths shows us his tips to get the job done. A hand held plank bender , if used correctly, will help bend your timber to any shape you desire. First, hold the timber the correct way. Feeding the timber through your fingers allows the model ship builder to control the feed at an even length.

It is easier to crimp the timber at one centimetre spacers with even pressure along the plank. Then half this space with the next crimp and so on as you chase the required bend you need. This is especially so when the first plank delineates the positions of the below deck gunports. Hull planking technique 1 is for Bluff Bowed vessels and Hull planking technique 2 is for Sharp Bowed vessels.

For further details call our office or visit our website. Please remember the planks are always fitted in pairs, one each side � fix and forget for 24 hours. There are four basic steps to a successful planking job We will deal with these in order then finish with a few suggestions on deck planking.

Using a file, fine rasp or coarse sandpaper on a wooden block, or a combination of all of these, bevel the edges of the frames so that the planks will come in contact with a full thickness of each frame � not just a sharp leading or trailing edge. A piece of broomstick with sandpaper glued to it will make it easier to shape those frames with a hollow curve. Use a plank and lay it over the frames in various positions to check the bevel i.

If you do have a hollow spot on one or more frame s it can be built up using slivers of timber. Check again. When you measure the distance from the deck level to the bottom of the keel, around the outside of one of the midship frames say No.

By doing this all planks will arrive at the Keel together. In some cases, it will have its top edge up to 5mm to 10mm below the deck level.

Where this is done it is to facilitate the construction of Bulwarks at a later stage but in any case, it will be parallel to the line of the deck. Quite a few of the models shown in our catalogue fall into this category. Many of the models which feature below deck open gunports require that the first plank follows the line of the gunports and it will run immediately above or below a row of gunports. When you have identified the position of the first plank, glue it into position using a PVA glue and without any tapering.

Next, on the three midship frames, mark a position approximately halfway to the keel- the same distance down on each frame and a distance which is a multiple of a plank width.

For example - if the planks are Model Ship Building Plank Bending 970 say 5mm wide then the distance down the edge of each frame to your pencil mark should be say 55mm or 60mm or 65mm etc. The second pair of planks should now be temporarily attached, using planking screws, at the positions you have marked on the midship frames - but without glue.

Both ends of each plank should now be bent, allowing them to follow their natural course along the frames. Again using planking screws, temporarily attach them to the rest of the frames making fine adjustments if necessary to ensure that each is a mirror image of the other. Checking the corresponding measurements port and starboard on the first and last frames should show up any errors. There are now four planks in place, two on each side, and these will probably be the only ones which do not require Model Ship Building Plank Bending Relationship any tapering or shaping.

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