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Windward sailing performance is nearly as important as passage-making speed. On the other extreme, a very modern, light displacement boat with a flat entry may tend to pound when sailing to windward and may lack directional stability when sailing downwind with large following seas.
The ability to sail off a lee shore in an emergency is dependent on windward performance. Bowsprits longer than 24' often prove to be a liability when anchoring, changing headsails or maneuvering in close quarters.
Low freeboard may indicate a design that will ship a lot of spray and water on ocean passages. Excessive freeboard may cause poor windward performance and a tendency to "sail" back and forth at anchor. A small amount of weather helm as the wind increases is desirable, but an excessive amount that cannot be decreased by sail trim or rig tuning may mean that a boat will be difficult to steer by hand, windvane or autopilot. If the design is excessively tender , you'll have to get used to living, cooking, navigating and sleeping at 25 to 30 degrees angle of heel every time you are sailing to windward, something you may find fatiguing.
A vessel with a short waterline and long, graceful overhangs often tends to hobbyhorse or pitch when to sailing to windward making upwind passages uncomfortable and difficult to impossible. Another drawback is frequently a lack directional stability when sailing downwind in a large following sea.
This is just as important as each of the above points, because a boat may have the best sailing characteristics in the world, but if your partner views it as a deep, dark, damp, unattractive place to live, you'll either be singlehanding or giving up your cruising dreams.
Remember most cruisers are at sea less than a quarter of the time, so comfort at anchor is also very important. Space for the additional sails, tankage, food, lines, spare parts, medical and safety supplies required for extensive cruising is important.
On some boats valuable storage space under the settees and berths is filled with tankage that could have been designed under the cabin sole.
A purpose-designed cruising boat will be able to carry the additional weight of three anchors, a windlass and several hundred pounds of chain, as well as additional water 8 lbs. You'll be adding several thousand pounds of equipment, so if the boat you're considering is already on her waterline before you start loading cruising gear you may end up several inches below the designed waterline. On some designs this may be a dangerous problem.
Boats that handle the weight the best are not real narrow at the waterline beam and have transom sterns without excessive overhangs. Multihulls advantages include very little heeling or rolling and tremendous interior volume and deck space, making them very attractive for sailing, living aboard and chartering in tropical climes.
Another distinct advantage is that multihulls don't sink if holed, unlike ballasted monohulls. Their disadvantages for offshore cruising are that they are more weight-sensitive to overloading; they may be uncomfortable going upwind into a head sea and under extremely rare instances they can capsize. As few marinas worldwide were designed for the width of multis, moorage in some places may be difficult to find.
Having said this, multi-hulls are ever increasing in popularity and make the most sense for warm-water cruising areas. In the past, cruisers assumed a full-keel design with attached rudder was optimum for ocean voyaging. I have cruised on four different modern full-keel boats, plus on a boat with a longish keel and separate full-skeg and rudder. Our present boat has a partial skeg and for me the trade off of less protection is worth the ease of steering and added maneuverability.
Valiant Partial-Skeg Rudders can be semi-balanced which is like having power steering. This type of rudder generally has three bearings, making it sturdier than a free-standing rudder which often has only two bearings. Examples Hallberg-Rassy Modern Cutaway Full Keel , with attached rudder and moderate displacement is another good choice for cruising in isolated areas where groundings or scrapes are common and the nearest shipyard may be thousands of miles away.
The cutaway forefoot is a faster, more maneuverable design that will have fewer tendencies to trip or broach when running under storm conditions than a traditional Tahiti ketch type of full keel boat. Having the rudder mounted slightly above and protected by the full length of the keel and the propeller enclosed in an aperture offer the best protection against damage from collision with submerged or floating objects.
Careening or hauling out in primitive boatyards is easy with this type of design. Sabre Westsail Having said that, there are plenty of folks happily cruising on their Westsail 32s and Hans Christians content that they have the best design for their cruising lifestyle. Remember that there is not one design or style of cruising that suits everyone.
Fiberglass is the least maintenance-intensive material for cruising boats, but construction quality varies greatly from one builder to the next. The majority of fiberglass boats were never designed or built for extended ocean sailing and may eventually start falling apart if pressed into this type of service.
The other extreme are designs that are so heavily built and overweight and do not have the sailing performance that makes for fast and comfortable passages.
Pearson Vanguards, Tritons and Alberg 35's are examples of very well built, reasonably priced earliest production fiberglass boats. After 40 years these earliest production fiberglass boats are still going strong.
Hull thickness doesn't necessarily translate into strength. A thick hull with a high resin to glass ratio may actually be more brittle than a thinner hull where the resin has been carefully squeegeed out.
Some builders have a history of serious osmotic blister problems. In some cases blistering may be serious enough to require removal and replacement of part of the hull laminate, which can be very expensive. A knowledgeable surveyor will be an excellent resource and may recommend looking for a different boat if the blisters are deep and extensive.
If the hull is balsa-cored and the core material becomes saturated because of improperly installed thru-hulls, or if the boat has "gone on the beach" you may want to look at a different boat because of the cost of repairs and potential for future problems.
Foam-coring provides excellent insulation above the waterline but there can be problems with water absorption if coring is used below the waterline. Mustin, International Marine, for a clear and concise view of hull and deck design, structure, and condition. Steel is an excellent boatbuilding material, and is frequently the choice of sailors who have done extensive offshore cruising. The impact resistance and total watertightness of the hull, deck and fittings is an advantage over other materials.
With sandblasting and the new epoxy coatings, steel takes less time to maintain than it used to, although it still requires more time and cost to maintain than a fiberglass boat.
Many of the steel boats on the North American market are owner-built hard-chine designs. Although strong and stiff, they are not particularly fast or attractive to many people's tastes.
A poorly-built steel boat will have places on the inside of the hull that will trap water and rust through from the inside out. Access to every part of the interior of the hull makes checking for corrosion and painting much easier. Aluminum boats are generally lighter and faster than steel boats, have less impact resistance and may be slightly more difficult to have repaired in remote shipyards.
Painted aluminum boats often tend to develop paint blisters after four to five years of serious cruising, requiring an expensive repainting job if you want a perfectly fair and shiny hull.
There are hundreds of unpainted French aluminum boats cruising the world, and although you may not find their concrete-colored oxidized aluminum hulls attractive, they are strong and practical. Aluminum suffers from electrolysis more severely than steel; if you're cruising on an aluminum boat you'll need to be very careful when moored in electrically "hot" marinas. Wood boats often offer a lower purchase price, although the cost and time involved in keeping them in good shape is more than with other materials.
If you have a limited budget, and don't mind the additional work, a well-built wooden boat could be a reasonable choice.
It may be difficult to find long-distance offshore insurance for traditionally built wooden cruising boats. Perhaps because there are so many potential sources of problems on wooden boats in the tropics we see fewer of them long distance cruising each year. There is the special warmth and appeal of wood that some people find irresistible, whether or not it takes more care and maintenance. Modern wood epoxy saturation WEST System technique produces boats that are lighter, stronger and often faster than traditionally built boats and have a better chance of being insurable for ocean cruising.
Ferrocement is the only material that has no advantages other than inexpensive construction materials. It is the most labor-intensive material to build with, is difficult to finance, insure or Speed Of The Boat In Still Water Formula Match repair, and has the lowest impact resistance of any material. Having said this, I have met two cement cruising boats that have completed two and three circumnavigations respectively.
Most cruising boats run aground at one time or another, and sometimes at speed. Some keel designs are better suited to withstanding a hard grounding without damage. A longer keel with external lead ballast attached to a substantial stub that is an Speed Of The Boat In Still Water Formula Vote integral part of the hull absorbs groundings well. When external ballast is used, keel bolts attaching the keel to the hull must be accessible, and keel loading must be spread out through the floor system.
Another option is internal lead ballast that is lowered into the keel cavity and then heavily fiberglassed over. Internal lead ballast eliminates some potential problems with keel attachment, but check closely during survey for any voids or water penetration in the keel area between the ballast and fiberglass. Read Surveying Fiberglass Sailboats for more details. Cast iron or mixtures of iron and cement are less desirable ballast materials , resulting in a boat that heels more quickly and has less room for tankage in the keel.
Centerboards and lifting keels are an option if your plans include more coastal cruising than ocean voyaging, but the increased complexity and lowered stability are drawbacks. High aspect deep and short fin keels in a fore and aft measurement are best suited for racing boats.
Running hard agro can result in damage to the area where the trailing edge of the keel meets the hull and can cause leaks around the keel bolts. The deck surface must provide adequate non-skid without being overly abrasive on bare knees. If you plan on living aboard or cruising in non-tropical areas, insulated decks will reduce condensation and moisture.
Teak decks look great at the boat show, but on older boats improperly laid decks will present additional leak potential and maintenance. If teak decking was laid over plywood there can be serious problems once the boat is over approximately years old.
If the plywood core material is not marine grade or if insufficient bedding compound used, you may end up with the core material becoming saturated and many small deck leaks where the screws are. When water penetrates this core material, repairs are often expensive and very time consuming. Check with any marine surveyor to verify this and avoid these boats. I would recommend having a surveyor look very carefully at any boat older than eight years with balsa-cored decks.
Unless the core has been eliminated in favor of a solid laminate where stanchion bases, genoa tracks, cleats and other deck fittings are placed, water will penetrate the balsa sooner or later, and repairs may be extensive and expensive. If the boat has foam-cored decks, the marine surveyor will check all horizontal surfaces carefully for voids or delaminating by tapping with a small hammer.
The majority of long distance cruisers are choosing sloop or cutter rigs. Dependable furling headsails and mainsails have meant that cruising couples are able to easily handle cutter or sloop-rigged boats in the 40' to 50' range. Many cruisers are adding a removable inner forestay on a sloop on which they can set a storm staysail once they have furled or dropped their working headsail. I don't have any hard and fast rules that apply to my choice of rig.
I used to think that I would not like a ketch rig, but after seven years and 70, miles on my previous boat that was ketch-rigged, I changed my mind. I appreciated the flexibility of the rig and the ability to drop half the total sail area the mainsail in less than a minute without having to resort to a furling mainsail. Amel of France is one of the few yards presently building ketches. The most common method utilizes bolts or screws protruding through on the inside of the hull to the deck joint.
This a mechanical clamp joint is relying on the bond of a sealant adhesive 3M is often used to stop leaks. Due to the working of the boat and the different climatic conditions the toerail and hull expand, contract and flex at different rates eventually weakening the bond, allowing water to follow the bolt or screw threads down, and drip on the inside of your lockers.
Remove the teak cap rail or aluminum extruded toerail and clean and re-bed each bolt. Radius the inside of the joint with epoxy and microballoons and then lay several layers of fiberglass tape over the inside of the joint, totally sealing it and strengthening the area at the same time. A more trouble-free hull to deck joint utilizes substantial fiberglass bonding on the interior of the joint, eliminating mechanical fasteners and leaks.
Bulkheads must be securely attached to the hull. On a fiberglass boat they need to be substantially glassed to the hull on both sides and to the deck with multiple layers of tape. High production builders skimp on this, gluing bulkheads in instead, but once their boats have made several ocean passages, bulkheads and interior wooden cabinetry frequently come unbonded from the hull, allowing the hull to flex more than it should.
The repair is complicated, messy and expensive, involving grinding and fiberglassing in some difficult to reach areas. If the interior woodwork is just glued or lightly attached to a hull liner pan or to the hull, it's not uncommon to discover it breaking loose after a few thousand miles of ocean sailing.
Access to hull and deck areas is generally restricted when fiberglass liners and pans are used in construction, making equipment installation and leak stopping difficult. This is one of the reasons for the large price difference between high-volume mass-produced French and German yards and higher quality, lower production builders.
The loading from chain plates must be evenly transmitted to bulkheads and structural members below deck to avoid lifting or distorting the deck. Separate chainplates for forward, upper and aft shrouds provides more stability for the mast and reduces the chance of deck loading distortion.
Swept-back spreaders mean a less expensive installation for the builder and a tighter sheeting angle for the headsail, but this presents a huge disadvantage when easing the main out for downwind sailing.
External chainplates fastened to the outside of the hull look salty but have a much higher leak potential and restrict jib sheeting angles.
Chainplates must be easily removable as crevice corrosion, particularly in warm climates can be a serious problem. Deck stepped masts work well, but only if proper structural members transmit the load to the keel.
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