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Labels: Burgers , Contemporary , Redfern , Sydney inner south. Labels: Darlinghurst , Italian , Pizza , Sydney inner east. Labels: Date night , Italian , Petersham , Sydney inner west. She is a freelance food writer with a love of cheap eats, offal and fried chicken. Read more about Helen or send an email. Subscribe to Grab Your Fork Receive automatic updates to your inbox by entering your email address:.
Monday, August 31, Bush, Redfern Kangaroo curry puffs, all day pikelets and Sydney's best cheeseburger? Bush by chef owner Grant Lawn in Sydney's Redfern has established a strong following since it opened just over a year ago. And in today's tough new Covid world, it's still drawing in socially-distanced fans. The Bush cheeseburger is legendary and with one bite you'll know why. The bun is soft but not too doughy nor sweet.
The blanket of bright yellow cheese oozes seductively. There's a good hit of tang from the thick sliced pickles and a generous splodge of burger sauce. But it's the beef patty that brings it all together, a reassuringly unevenly shaped patty that's charred and caramelised in all the right places. It hits all the right notes of an American cheeseburger executed oh so very well.
Is this Sydney's best cheeseburger? It's definitely a front runner. Make sure you get chips too. Here they're old-fashioned crinkle cut chips, fried to a golden ridged crunch.
What the sausage roll lacks in length, it makes up for in girth, a hefty slice served with tomato sauce on the side. This is a classic sausage roll made with beef mince, soft and juicy in the middle, encased in flaky pastry.
Dirty vegetables will balance all the fried food, right? Crisp iceberg lettuce and crunchy fresh cucumber slices are dressed with vinaigrette and pistachio smithereens, an assembly that tastes much cleaner that its namesake would suggest. Courtyard seating.
We're seated inside but there's a cosy looking courtyard out the back too. An Australian bush theme extends throughout, from the Aussie fauna plush toys dotting the dining room to the beautifully raw timber tables, tree stump stools and native floral arrangements. Fairy bread and butter pudding is one of their signature desserts but we skip this in favour of their all day breakfast pikelets served with a choose-your-own adventure assortment of toppings. The salted caramel sauce is particularly good, its salty sweetness tempered by a caramel pushed to a satisfyingly bitter edge.
Classic honey with butter is great but the wattle seed cream is even better, topped with a rubble of crushed pistachios. Open Tuesday to Saturday. Dimitri's Pizza, Darlinghurst So you like your pizzas puffy and blistered with a caramelised char? Me too. At Dimitri's Pizza in Darlinghurst, they churn out brilliantly floppy pizzas made with sourdough bases, finished in an Italian-made woodfired oven.
The best table is by the kitchen, offering a front row view of all the pizza making action. There's something almost sensual about watching a pizzaiolo gently coax the dough into shape, then strew it with toppings before plunging it into the fiery cavern of the woodfired oven I told you it was sensual.
We upgrade ours with stracciatella , made from torn mozzarella soaked in cream. It adds a milky decadence to this tomato pizza, interspersed with alternating hits of jammy garlic cloves and fresh basil leaves. The pizza edges are the best bit, brilliantly bubbled around the edges with all the right shades of char. The base is soft and floppy because of its thinness, perfect for folding over while you try and eat this demurely with your fingers who am I kidding?
Just get right in there. They're not afraid of a few puns either, like the funguy pizza with mushrooms and truffle oil boom tish. It's a party of juicy sweet corn kernels sliced straight off the cob, made even tastier with stretchy molten mozzarella cheese and the gentle heat of pickled jalapenos. That's slices of sopressa - an aged salami - drizzled over with warm honey. Sopressa salami pizza with mozarella and hot honey It's not as strange as you think. Pork goes brilliantly with sugar - think roast pork with apple sauce or Chinese char siu barbecue pork.
Here it adds a mellow richness to the cured pork. The smoked eggplant is terrific, its buttery soft flesh permeated with smoky undertones, sauced up with blistered cherry tomatoes and a cloud of parmigiano cheese. Tomatoes, basil, mozzarella and extra virgin olive oil. Is there a more iconic taste of Italy? There's definitely a focus on boutique beer breweries , including half a dozen beers by Marrickville brewery The Grifter. Happy hour used to run 5pm-7pm but looks to have been shortened to 6pm now.
The Kittyhawk, Sydney Chips are good but homemade crisps are better. Especially when they're a vehicle for creme fraiche, caviar and briny pops of trout roe.
It's just one of the snacks at The Kittyhawk , the French restaurant and cocktail bar you've probably walked past a million times and never noticed.
Kittyhawk isn't entirely new, having opened in My interest to visit was piqued when I realised Alex Lynn, former head chef of Casoni , was now rattling the pans here. Entering Kittyhawk feels like a bit of a strange and awkward maze at first, but keep walking and a second door spits you into a moody dining room. The semi-circular banquettes are where you want to be - cushioned and cosy comfort for the entire table.
The dimly lit room is filled with prints, dark toned timbers and empty liquor bottles. What I do love is the menu, a terrific range of dishes that can easily accommodate your table's collective appetite. Because you can order throughout the night, too, it means our late-running friend, doesn't miss out either.
The charred toast offers a pleasing smokiness. Trout roe and caviar on crispy potato Slather generously and savour that creamy lusciousness against carby crunch. Could I just have all my meals served on potato crisps please? This one is cooked to perfection, the trench of marrow wobbly with fattiness but still whole, slicked with a parsley sauce in forest green.
The black garlic toast on the side reminds me of Vegemite toast, but truth be told, I end up preferring to eat these components separately so I can appreciate each of them on their own and unadulterated. Melted cheese adds a extra layer of decadence, the whole shebang crowned with petals of pickled onion.
Inside the gruyere cheese donut If you love cheese, you'll love these donuts, elongated footballs of cheesy sophistication. Let's not forget the drinks list either, a comprehensive menu that includes a depth of rum and cocktails like lean in all different directions. The Ledo Road with pandan leaf, lime juice, pandan syrup, toasted coconut milk and Bacardi has my name all over it. This French take on gnocchi is potato-less, instead using choux pastry that is boiled and then pan-fried.
It makes for a starchier and slightly chewier mouthfeel, the golden-seared pillows served with a deeply rich and savoury mushroom fricasse. Crisp asparagus spears provide much appreciated freshness and crunch.
These are huge portions, each one easily shared between two. The scarlet prawns themselves are enormous, cooked so the flesh is still soft and sweet. The highlight is in the prawn head of course, a bonanza of prawn intensity that deserves to be licked, scraped and sucked with enthusiastic abandon.
Once the blue flame subsides, you're left with a boozy brioche laced with rum, best eaten with a good spoonful of creme patissiere. Creme caramel with miso caramel And because it was my birthday, the kitchen sends out a complimentary dessert: creme caramel with miso caramel on the side.
It takes us a while to work out the flavour of the caramel on the side - later verified with Chef Lynn - its savoury saltiness adds nuance and complexity to this traditional French dessert. All up, good food and good fun.
And if you enjoy live music, swing by on Thursday nights when blues-rock band Cass Greaves and the Ragin Cajuns perform. It's the kind of fancy restaurant you wouldn't expect in Petersham, but one that's likely to accommodate the changing demographic in the inner west: one that likes good food with parking and isn't too far from home.
It's a reasonable proposition once you factor in the complimentary items. We're immediately presented with amuse bouche of lemon thyme pastry puffs with mayonnaise and mini tacos with salmon and wine jelly. They're incongruously served in a Chinese steamer basket, but functional and cultural inexplicabilites aside, it makes for a welcome and appetite-inducing introduction.
Milk bun, focaccia and bread sticks with extra virgin olive oil and smoked paprika butter There's a sense of LuMi hospitality too in the presentation of the complimentary bread offering, a trio of options served in an elegant timber box. Quell any hunger pangs with the mini milk bun , a square of crusty focaccia and elongated bread sticks. Smoked paprika butter is dolloped into a wooden pinch pot; extra virgin olive oil is dispensed using a plastic pipette.
While the novelty value of the pipette is high, my only quibble would be it wasn't quite enough for three people. Maybe I'm looking for the similarities, but the decor has LuMi vibes too, a sense of understated luxury with its cool tones of dark timber, brass and midnight blue. The napkins are heavy, water is poured into beautiful ceramic cups and industrial lights illuminate exposed brick walls and stripped back floorboards.
You can always ask waitstaff for more details - or look on Instagram you bet we did. It leads us to lock in the kingfish with young fennel and wild rice.
The entree is light and refreshing, delicate slices of firm kingfish contrasted with the acidity of pickled fennel and the nutty crunch of wild rice puffs. The picked morsels of pork are compressed into a neat little log, crowned with a dollop of whipped coconut cream and scattered with toasted coconut flakes.
The coconut adds a tropical decadence although it does feel a touch overwhelming - perhaps even dessert-like - against the soft and tender fattiness of the pork. The rice is cooked to a toothsome chewiness, strewn with petite nuggets of de-shelled Cloudy Bay clams and crisp spears of asparagus. It eats better than it looks, fortified with pinstripes of asparagus emulsion and sour cream. The fat has been rendered, the skin is crisp and the buerre noisette and toasted hazelnut crumbs add a nutty and textural enhancement.
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