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29.05.2021, admin
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As we have established many times over by now, my kitchen was full of a lot of nightmarish problems that added up to everything being pretty much terrible and disgusting. One of the things that was actually OK, though, were the old countertops. Even though it goes against most of my instincts to start getting rid of things that are more or less functional, this was just one of those situations where it made sense.

I thought briefly of doing this super cool faux-concrete treatment to the existing counters, which seems relatively easy and looks great, but I felt really strongly that the countertops should be wood. I love the section of butcher block I have in my apartment kitchen, and given that the rest of the room is mainly black and white, I worried that the concrete would end up making things feel too cold and flat��the kitchen really needs some wood color and texture to bring it to life and inject some warmth.

The closest IKEA is a little over an hour away, and I have a tiny car, so it would have required a car rental�and a headache�and tears�and all of a sudden butcher block felt a little out of range.

I decided to buy an extra piece of each, just in case I messed something up, and have it all delivered for an extra 20 clams. Admittedly, these countertops are not fancy. They look very homespun and a little�rustic, which I actually kind of like.

Like I said. Not fancy. Instead, what I did have is my handy little Kreg Jig! I bought this thing for a freelance project a while back, and it does a fabulous job of joining pieces of wood easily by helping you drill nice little pocket holes. The joint ends up being really strong and pretty hassle-free and easy to do. Basically you put the wood in, set the height adjustment, and drill your holes.

I forgot that the bond is much stronger if you drill two holes instead of one at each screw placement, so I did that for the second countertop which I stupidly did not photograph. I eyeballed where the screws should be, placing one about every 8 inches.

I used my circular saw to cut the depth down after everything was joined together, and then we started in on the sanding! Framing lumber tends to be VERY rough, so the sanding was definitely the worst part of this whole thing. Nora and I just switched on and off when our arms began to feel like Jell-O, and it probably took about an hour maybe more for each countertop. We started with 60 grit sandpaper and just worked our way up the ranks, finishing with grit.

The lumber went from being super rough and a little ugly to suuuuuupppper smooth and soft and gorgeous. After the sanding, this is about what we were left with. So lux. I actually made a smaller section of countertop for my friend Anna after I made my own and attempted to do this with a circular saw and a rigid metal cutting guide, and that worked pretty well. Not perfect, but perfection is overrated! I love the way the wood looks with all of the knots and imperfections, and the tone of the wood is so pretty.

Imagine with me for a moment that there are cabinet doors and drawers and new hardware and a different floor and pretty things on the counters and no hanging wires or weird exposed plumbing in that second picture. Hi, I'm Daniel, and I love houses!

Follow along as I bring my Greek Revival back to life and tackle my 30s to varying degrees of success. Want to be notified whenever there's a new blog post?

Enter your email address below! Interesting idea for the countertops�seems weird, but it really does work. Also� Cute little sponge. Maybe he should be the house mascot. Lord Spongington. Every time I see the long view of the kitchen I am shocked at how high the ceilings are sooooooo awesooooome.

What are they? I must admit though that I have a soft spot for those fab retro gold-flecked ones too � did you keep them? They might be handy to re-use as a little workstation in the garage or laundry maybe�? I just found your site last week and I am never as happy as when I see a new post from you in my reader. Keep up the no-bullshit attitude and the posting and the renovations, please.

The counters look great. If you plan on doing anything like this again, it might be worth it to pick up a random orbit sander. Could come in handy for future projects. It would certainly save a lot of time. I probably would have gone for it if I had realized how much sanding would be involved, but I kind of had no idea what I was getting into! And really do warm up the kitchen. Did you consider a poly seal, perhaps a marine type?

Pretty sure HD carries something like that. Thank you times a million for making that piece for me. You are the best. Hey Daniel! Looks awesome. It looks like you opted for flush countertops. Was that a conscious design choice or just how the materials worked out? Or maybe just the angle of the photo!

Curious to hear what your internal dialogue was on this one. It depends on what type of cabinet doors youhave. If the doors are full face and the countertop is flush with the cabinet doors it will look great and have a boxy flat industrial look.

However if the cabinet doors extent further than the countertop it will look incomplete. Basically it will look like your countertop is too small. I love this look. My bag of ideas which is a list of blog posts with ideas that I actually want to use has 5 articles from you, one from Anna, and several from this awesome lady in Helsinki who has an apartment in helsinki and a ridiculously tiny vacation home out in the archipeligo somewhere.

That looks super nice for a DIY job on bench tops. I also kind of like the old formica, too. Perfect solution for your needs. Yeah, I was thinking about Waterlox!

If you apply it with the wetsand method instead of using a rag, apply it with or grit wetsand paper in several coats , you get a beautiful silky finish. The theory is that you are building up a slurry of wood and finish that fills in the little holes and gaps in the grain leaving you with a nice finish. Not going to get you a glossy finish or be quite as durable as the waterlox, but it has the advantage of being much easier to touch up either rub some more on with a rag, or wetsand a bit more if its a big spot.

My only concern with both products would be the presence of mineral oil. Sounds like waterlox needs at least 30 days after the mineral oil before its safe to apply. Here are some videos on the wetsanding technique on a cutting board.

I think this is probably a little overboard for countertops as opposed to artisanal cutting boards , so you could definitely do a faster application over a larger surface. Just make sure you have some cut up old t-shirts to wipe it dry.

The wetsanding technique sounds beaaaauuuutiful. Brilliant as usual. I look forward to every post Thanks for all your hard work putting the blog together. Daniel , I love your blog!

I think you should look into saladbowl finish for the countertop. PS- I just found your blog and I am in love! Can you come do my place next? I swear my countertop is only 4 ft long. Is it treated wood? It could be toxic. Treated wood has arsenic in it.

Looks amazing! How easy are they to keep clean, with the knots? You mentioned you had been using them for a few weeks? We did have to tear out part of the kitchen ceiling and they got covered in some debris, but it was easy to just vacuum off the crevices and stuff and wipe them down. I completely love the functionality and look! I, too, have a soft spot for that gold-flecked countertop. There was also Contact Paper in that pattern. Maybe seal with Minwax wipe on poly?

I use it on kitchen tables and its great, very easy to apply. Not sure if it will go on over the mineral oil or not, though. Seriously though, that looks great! Since no tv show yet� How about a youtube show?


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