Aluminum Boat Trailer Repair 05,14 Foot Alumacraft Jon Boat For Sale Facebook,Steamboat Penang Bayan Lepas Halal,Small Rc Boat Models Map - Reviews
19.06.2021, adminI had over 50 holes of various sizes in the transom of my saltwater boat. Thin Aluminum and awkward position was risky for tig or spoolgun. Keeping the flame moving is important and keeping flux on the rod and around the hole hole also important. After getting the swing of things and aluminum boat trailer repair 05 holes filled I was able to grind down the mound, sand it out then buff the braze to excellent results.
This product works really well but a word of caution: aluminum, especially thin and large pieces will constantly move on you while distributing the torch heat so warping should be expected. Aluminum boat trailer repair 05 my boat, I kept a flat face dead blow mallet handy to keep things in check.
Practice first, keep moving, keep flexing and you should be s as satisfied with the results. Read full review. Verified purchase: Yes Condition: New. Skip to main content. About this product. Show More Show Less. More items related to this product. Almost gone. Save on Other Welding Materials Trending price is based on prices over last 90 days.
You may also like. Aluminum boat trailer repair 05 Aluminum Welding Wires. Ratings and Reviews. Most relevant reviews. Test beforehand I had over 50 holes of various sizes in the transom of my saltwater boat. Read full review Verified purchase: Yes Condition: New.
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Trailers subjected to these elements typically have significant rust-through and the frame can be very weak. If in doubt, bring it to a trailer shop to have an expert give it the once-over. It's worth the hassle and expense because it just might save you from a catastrophic failure while towing, or at the very least, save you from wasting money and time on a basket case. For this article, we refurbished a generic galvanized skiff trailer.
The old winch was rusty, the frame was showing some minor signs of surface corrosion, the wooden bunks were rotting, and the lights didn't work consistently. Note: This job will differ with each trailer and its good and bad parts. The size, weight, and type of boat will have a bearing on how easy � or difficult � it is to remove it from the trailer.
In my case, the boat was small and lightweight so I was able to pick a good spot in our yard, tilt the boat nose-high, and secure the boat while I pulled the trailer out from under it. On a previous occasion with a larger and heavier boat, I built a temporary cradle from treated pine to hold the boat while I rerigged the boat and rebuilt the trailer.
With the trailer free of the boat, strip all components from it and make a list of what you'll replace. In addition to taking photos, take measurements of where things like the axle, winch, bunks, or rollers, and any spare tire may go.
For this project, I wanted to get the trailer back to just the frame and start from there. I removed the old rotten wooden bunks, the very rusty winch, the lights, and safety chains.
The added benefit was that with these components removed, the bare trailer frame was much lighter and easier to handle. I was able to singlehandedly flip the trailer to check the underside, something that would have been impossible with the wheels, springs, and axle in place. Much of the galvanized coating was in good condition, and the main structural members, I was pleased to note, were all in sound condition.
A thorough wire brushing to remove surface rust and scale was pretty easy, though messy and time-consuming. I followed this with a good acetone wipe to clean the surface and prepare it for me to spray cold galvanize paint on all the exposed areas. Some components, especially around the bunk mounts and light brackets, were pretty corroded and required cutting off with an angle grinder.
Reassembly of the trailer was straightforward and quick. I measured for the new bunks using the old ones as templates. Then I cut them from treated pine 2-by-6 boards and covered them with new carpet, which I glued with contact cement and stapled with stainless steel staples on the underside.
To reattach bunks and other components, I used Grade 5 galvanized steel bolts and washers and Nylock locking nuts to eliminate rusting and rattling loose. With the new bunks and winch in place, I wired the trailer with new LED lights and wiring kit, taking care to use grommets and other insulating material where the wiring insulation might chafe.
After reinstalling the fiberglass fenders with new stainless bolts, we were ready to winch the boat back onto its trailer. With a couple of helpers to ensure it goes steadily, the process is much easier than it sounds.
Many lighting kits come with these squeeze Scotch-Lok type of wiring connectors that don't stand up to regular dunking. Use waterproof crimp connections instead:. The old trailer was in a sorry state. One of the first jobs was removing the old trailer bunks:. The dirtiest part of the job was removing the old rust prior to refinishing:.
To protect the light wiring from chafe and keep everything neat, I used these clips, which require no drilling or alterations to the trailer:. In addition to the bunks themselves I replaced the severely corroded support brackets:. I attached waterproof carpet to the bunks using contact cement and stainless steel staples:. Before hitting the road, double check all your work, make sure all bolts are tight, and bunks or rollers are well secured.
If there is any possible issue, have Aluminum Boat Trailer Repair Engine a professional shop check it. Your trailer will probably be seeing highway duty, so it must be in good condition. In some states you may need to have your trailer inspected, so check with your local Department of Motor Vehicles for regulations in your area. Often smaller trailers without brakes have less stringent requirements than larger twin- and triple-axle trailers capable of carrying heavy boats, but it always pays to check.
We use cookies to enhance your visit to our website and to improve your experience. Membership Search. Go figure. You'd think a trailer place would know how much aluminum loves to be bent back and forth.
Last edited by H80N ; , AM. I plan to tig it. Give helga a chance to earn her keep. Or move my little htp off the welding bench and use that. But in this case, a large bead profile may actually be a good thing. It might be tough to reach it though, my whip for that is only 10' long. I have a little of that sample of from Galen left, I'll probably swing by the LWS and get a tube of it though. I have zero at the moment, so I need to resupply anyway.
Plan ahead. I can't get locally. Airgas is supposed to be able to get it. With hazardous materials fees, and shipping cost is bad. Makes me so dadgum mad! All I'm buying is a pair of gloves!!! Yeah-you don't feel so bad when you're buying a bottle of Acetylene-but gloves? OA goggles? Just nuts. They say it's an additional charge for all customers and called it "cost sharing".
Do what? I asked them if they sell welding gases to the chemical plants around here, of course they do! Those chemical plants dang sure aren't sharing their profits with me though!
Stinkin thievery goin on around here. Like the dadgum government. Here's my cost sharing, I'd tell them, go screw off and I'll buy everything somewhere else. WTF, a "hazmat" fee? Well I have to go pay my hazmat fee. Need to pick up some tig wire for this boat trailer repair this morning. I may have to turn my LWS into my welding gases only supply.
Let him pay it, not you.
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