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Another consideration for size: you need to make sure your pontoon boat fits in a commercially available trailer. Now you have to pick a place to get building. More than likely, you cannot build a pontoon in your garage unless this space is very big.
Your backyard might suffice, but you do want to keep the homemade pontoon boat safeguarded from the elements. You would hate for parts to rust out before you even get the pontoon boat assembled. We recommend starting with a scrapyard if you need your own pontoon tubes.
There, you could potentially find plastic drums or PVC water pipes. In some rare instances, you might even come upon military drop tanks. The aerodynamic qualities, strong honeycombed baffling, and anti-rust design makes drop tanks a pretty phenomenal choice for pontoon tubes if you can get your hands on them. One plus to making your own DIY pontoon boat from the ground up is you can decide if you want your boat to have two pontoon tubes or even three. With the pontoon tubes selected, you need to keep finding materials for the rest of your boat.
Next, you want to focus on the pontoon frames. PVC water pipe not only has buoyancy, but this material is readily available and fairly inexpensive as well. They should be parallel to one another. Also, each tube should have a diameter of 12 inches. For a budget option, take some wood, whittle it down to a plug shape, and then attach it in the pipes with screws and epoxy. Again, make sure you treat the wood. Next, you want to take the pine boards, which should be two-by-fours that are about eight feet.
Then, place them lengthwise along the pipe. These will become your joists. This is now your support band. Do this for the other sides of the framework as well. Get a drill with a coarse thread hex-head screw. Make sure the screw is two and a half inches long at least. Use the drill to connect a two-by-four block between every joist. Attach two screws for each block. The galvanized strap provides bracing to your DIY pontoon boat. You want gauge galvanized steel for this job. Then, screw the strap in at a diagonal for each corner.
Use tech screws or hot-dipped galvanized nails. Your drill could come in handy for this. Check your deck corners after installing the first galvanized strap, particularly the one opposite the corner with the strap. Then add straps to the other corners. You want either marine-grade plywood or treated lumber, especially 1X4 or 1X6 wood. This plays into the displacement of the PVC pipes, which is roughly 1, pounds.
The above wood could add pounds before you consider how much your pontoon tubes weigh. That would push everything to around pounds, so a simple, light deck works best here. Whether you followed these instructions or those provided with a DIY kit, your pontoon boat is now complete.
Test it for safety and then try it out on the water. Enjoy your boat! Perhaps none of the ideas or plans here have really jumped out at you yet. Take a look! If you want to make an incredibly basic but inexpensive and functional PVC pontoon boat, make sure you check out this YouTube video here from Ray Makes. This combination vessel from Frugal Grasshopper.
For those who think online it is, a word of caution: Document your purchases. See to it that you receive what you order. Parallel the two rows of aluminum pontoons on a flat surface. The pontoons must be fabricated with type H32 aluminum. Cross-channels reinforce the pontoons for enhanced support and reliability. Remember: Your marine-grade plywood has to be sanded and sealed before installation. In accordance with its thickness and consistency of layers, seal the plywood. Saw the plywood sheets according to the size you desire for your boat deck, and place it on the cross-channels.
Now, sand the plywood surface and its edges with grit sandpaper. Dust the plywood post sanding. Let it dry completely to switch over to the other side of the ply. Repeat this process 5 to 7 times to save your deck from premature deterioration and warping.
Needless to mention, this process would consume a considerable amount of time. Once the sealing process is complete, run a strip of joint tape on each cross-channel. Install the plywood decking over the joint tape to secure it to the cross-channels. Fill the peripheries of the fasteners bolts with epoxy resin, wherever necessary.
This, sure, would do a good turn to your deck as this would prevent slippage. You must consult a fabricator before carpeting, to check whether the carpet should be laid before, or after the aluminum tube railings are installed.
To camouflage the raw edges of the ply, carpet, and the cross-channels, a boat trim is applied to refine the look of the deck. Attach the trim to all four sides of the boat. Use trims that are inherently equipped with bumpers and grab handles. Consult a fabricator to ready the aluminum railings for your boat.
Ideally, the components mentioned in this section should be attached to the tube railing. However, the fabricator may have a different take on the said issue and may suggest another feasible way to construct the railing and boosting its reliability. Consider his inputs, as well. The fabricator will measure your deck, and accordingly construct the anodized railing for the boat. An anodized railing promises strength and longevity, thereby appearing well-groomed in the bargain.
To span the life of the fence railing, as well as the vinyl-boosted ply, rail risers are used. The risers are U-shaped with circular edges. Preferably, 5 rail risers across the length and 2 across the width of the pontoon deck are installed.
It nullifies the probability of rattling. The brace is then drilled and fastened with bolts onto the railing and through the deck. Railing corner caps are used to strengthen the dimensions of the railing.
The radius cap is drilled through and bolted down to the deck. In the meantime, until the railing is ready to be installed, you may work toward assembling the rest of the hardware and enhancers. Use three webbing attachment straps on both the pontoons to provide your cruiser with an enhanced hold. They provide deck support and facilitate an easy way to slip a tie-down through two holes at the base. For all those keen fishermen and women, cleats come in handy.
Just slip the fishing line through the holes at the base of the cleat, with a bobber attached to fetch a catch! Attach deck cleats on all four sides of the deck with the help of stainless pontoon deck bolts.
You may leave out the stern rear corners of the boat, and attach the cleats at the corners of the bow front section of the deck only. To increase the quality of visibility for navigation during the dark hours, install sidelights at the front corners of the deck. However, do not place the pair at the edge. Sidelights are a must as they are proven aids to navigation. Install the trolling motor; it would adhere to the outboard setup of the pontoon boat.
The trolling motor is installed at the stern rear of the boat. Just use the hand-held remote controller to start the motor, and maneuver the boat. To redefine comfort on board, choose a chair with armrests and an adjustable backrest. A swivel and an adjustable pedestal ought to be a part of the seating package in order to cruise in comfort. Knot the hanger string of the pontoon fender to the topmost rail. Position the fender in a way that its string length extends through the deck to the pontoon rows.
Fenders are an important inclusion to the boat design, as they keep the aluminum railings from damage when docking. They serve as cushions that brave the docking impact while mooring the pontoon boat. When not in use, it may be pushed backwards to the frame of the pontoon.
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