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nesting dinghy? - Cruising Anarchy - Sailing Anarchy Forums
Nesting Expedition Dinghy Update. Browse all Articles The Nesting Expedition Dinghy: A micro-cruiser just for fun. return to section: The Life of Boats: A Blog. By John C. Harris February � With kayak-building techniques and materials, this could be an pound hull. It'd be fragile, and very skittish under sail, however. The only way to make a boat this size forgiving of inattention is to make it quite heavy.� With the hull unbolted for nesting, an ordinary hand truck will serve for shifting the boat in and out of an apartment building's freight elevator or my garden shed. As the boat's not sailing yet, I can offer only educated speculation. While the lug-rigged yawl will appeal to those in windier settings, I specified a fairly large jib-headed rig for the Chesapeake's light airs. ��� ��� ������� � ������������ �� myboat290 boatplans � �� �����. ������ �� ������,������,��� ������ ��� �������. ��� ������������. 3����� The resulting pieces will nest neatly on the deck of a cruising boat or in a shoreside storage shed. The smallest of the trio, Danny Greene's foot 4-inch Chameleon, folds into a 5-foot 3-inch package that lives on the forward deck of his foot ketch.� Nesting Dinghies. Because Greene enjoys recreational rowing, he has fitted Chameleon with a nicely devised, removable sliding seat and outriggers.� Erik built his Greenland-style prototype by eye, and drew formal lines only after a photograph of the boat in WoodenBoat magazine elicited requests for plans from readers in Japan, Australia, and New Zealand, as well as the United States.

Here are the costs so far The plans include pretty good detail on the sail rig. The materials list includes a couple alternative manufacturers Ronstan, Racelite and Harken with model numbers for all the sailing hardware. There is a helpful list of recommended sources for the plywood, aluminum tubing for the mast and other materials. There is a CD included with about photos of Spindrifts under construction and finished.

All in all, it looks like a pretty good set of plans. References: Woodfinder. Man-O-War, 16 Apr Man-O-War Cay, 3 Mar Being on an island, everything has to be brought in by boat. Here is the regular cargo barge from Marsh Harbour.

Note: I am adding 2 inches to the freeboard to the design. I did this on the fiberglass one I made, as did several others who built them in Panama. Most owners I know say they wish they had more freeboard Might not be needed if you use it only for a fun boat, as getting splashed is part of the fun. If waters are choppy in your area, though, it is a modification worth considering. Be sure to think through how to do this!

Simplest method to avoid mistakes is to draw the plans out full size, then continue the lines up: thus, extending the existing stem lines and the transom corners up along the existing lines. You will end up with a boat slightly longer and wider, but having the exact same shape as the original but just more freeboard. Except for Graham's reply where I simply stopped monitoring the thread I was really surprised by the level of vitriol, pomposity and rigidity in the response.

Maybe the election season is taking it's toll on reason? Or I'm simply too sensitive. Are there people on the forum with a different or more reasoned point of view but unwilling to express it, for fear of being ridiculed and ostracised? I imagine it's the sort of social. I don't know that this is the best procedure, but here is what I did Then a nice flat 3x6 over the joints and a couple cinder blocks on top of that.

I allowed a couple days before bending it, but mainly because the weather was bad and I couldn't work on it. And this suggests "plac[ing] the leading exterior edge of the scarf toward the stern" which if I'm reading that right I did. But, the plans also warn you that once you put the dinghy in service, you should occasionally check the surface for cracks which would then let water start to get into the plywood.

I built a 16' redwood "stripper" canoe when I was a kid and used a layer of cloth inside and a layer of cloth outside, and I can tell you that that surface Building A Nesting Dinghy 10 was nearly indestructible.

Also, I believe cloth helps you apply a consistent amount of resin. And one which, if you are careful to squeegie out the excess resin, can be fairly economical on the weight. Anyway, I chose to use cloth - rebel that I am This is for the hooks. The horizontal stick, just above the clamps, is removed to make the long routes on the aft half. This is for the plates. The first route for the hook has been made. And some of the results.

I need to round over the edges yet. First, I figured out the shape of the top by cutting and fitting cardboard around the bow section as I lowered it into the stern half. From the cardboard, I made a couple plywood forms for each side - the darker crescent-shaped plywood pieces in the photo above.

You can see the end of the rail sticking out in the bottom left corner. They are temporarily screwed into the ends of the plywood form while the epoxy sets.

Here, the sides and top are fit together and we are looking down at one of the joints where the rails meet. The blurry-looking spot is the top of the post which will be epoxied into the corner, upon which this joint then rests. The rail on the left is the one that was epoxied to the laminate see photo to the left. I then notched that out to fit the three strips from the rail joining it here. This is before gluing everything with epoxy.

I should have taken a photo of the glue-up. But it wasn't anything special.. I Building A Nesting Dinghy Cells found a nice, absolutely flat 2x10 plank. I laid the seat's tops on that upside down. Then a couple cinder blocks to hold the plywood flat. Then I put a liberal amount of epoxy on the pieces that would become the rails and posts, as well as pre-coating the plywood where the rails would lie. I used thickened epoxy in the space where the posts meet the corners and a little where the curved rail meets the top to take up any gap that might be there.

I put everything together, checking that the sides were square to the top and used a few small sticks, sheetrock screws and clamps as necessary to hold everything together until the epoxy set. I then let it set up overnight. After the epoxy set, I put fillets on all the inside joints. I plan to cover the inside with a layer of 4oz. I did that before gluing everything together, BTW.

I need to sand everything smooth yet. Try clicking on the image for a better view. Now roughly fit in place. I'll leave those lower plywood form pieces in place they're attached with sheetrock screws from the inside until just before I epoxy the seats to the hull. I used thickened epoxy to take up any gap between the hull and the first strip next to it.

The clamps are simple but can apply as much pressure as you need. For more pressure, use a stiffer stick or a wider piece where it presses against the laminates. That little piece at the bottom should be placed on edge like this so the force isn't applied "cock-eyed". It is 9" wide. This is still rough yet. I'll trim the edge of the top over the dagger- board trunk so that it is flush with the support rails later. I'll bond the seat top both the top and bottom surfaces and support rail to the hull with thickened epoxy fillets when I install it.

This makes the seats appear to be 2" thick - a look that I liked in my previous dinghy. Aft edge of the seat, looking at it from the bottom. I'll add a little backing on what will be the top of the seat here as that sharp edge looks a little fragile. And the forward edge of the seat looking at the support rail from the end, again from the bottom. The little rolled edge, on what will be the bottom inside, is just an extra finger hold when lifting the bow section from here.

This is Building A Nesting Dinghy Window looking at the bottom of the seat where the support rails will butt up against the daggerboard trunk. I covered the bottom of the seat with a layer of 4oz. Again looking at the bottom of the seat, now with the daggerboard trunk in place.

OK, I got a little carried away here. This is the top of the daggerboard trunk where it butts up against the nesting bulkhead. This extra support is now clearly unneccesary, but well.. It weighs practically nothing so no harm IMO. I'll screw this edge together as well. Stainless steel screws on say, 6" centers. BTW, the background in this photo is the bottom of a Hinkley currently hauled out here at the boat yard.

Makes a nice backdrop I've marked where the leather would be located on the upper shaft click on image to enlarge. To maximize the oar's length, I was thinking I could use a sliding piece of PVC or aluminum pipe, stored on the lower shaft. It would be about 20" long. The overall length of the oar would be 6'10". Having the blade point aft and partially under the seat probably looks a little better compared with the first pair of photos above.

I'll need to notch a little out of the seat support. The wider blade doesn't quite fit otherwise. As the table already shows, the DeLapp is a little longer and narrower. The Perko clamp is a little less than an inch "thick". So it doesn't fit in the available space The bow section's keel is resting on the floor of the stern section.

Abstract:

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