Building A Sailboat Trailer System,Aluminum Boat Deck Boxes 202,Xpress Boats Build And Price List 2020 - PDF Review

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New posts. Search forums. Log in. Install the app. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Boat Track rail System ideas? Thread starter paulspaddle Start date Jan 11, Joined Mar 2, Messages Anyone have any ingenious ideas on building one of these boat rail systems?

I'm a fan of salvage yards and building my own. Joined Sailboat Building Kit Group Mar 21, Messages 7, Re: Boat Track rail System ideas? Joined Aug 2, Messages 1, Yea, An old boat trailer, some cable, a winch and an anchor. Joined Apr 6, Messages Is exactly what our neighbor at the cabin uses. Has two winches, one for the bow hook and the other to crank the trailer in and out of the water.

Instead of the tongue jack he uses a spare trailer tire. Two Level Rack Shown. How to Measure your Trailer. Option 1: Specify the trailer make and model. All that is needed: a. Does it look like the Diagrams Layout? The trailer frame width between fenders. Total length of trailer. Diagram References A- width of the trailer frame B- width from outside fender to outside fender C- from axle to back of rear channel D- from center bar to back of rear channel some trailers do not have this center bar E- from forward cross channel to back of rear channel F- overall length from ball coupler to back of rear channel G- width of tongue H- from start of side channels to back of rear channel I - height of fender top over frame channel J - length of rear channel, if applicable K- width of side frame.

These Cross Bars are fixed position and the same width as upper Box Rack.. This allows easy attachment with the Optional 3" x 6" U-Bolts. Actual size may vary depending on boat and trailer models. Peel ply might work then.

I don't think it would have helped a lot this time given how bad we laid it up How do you mean a router would help to make it even and shape it? Would I set it to pre determined different depths and scribe grooves at even spacings then plane down to the grooves or something? Landlubber , Sep 28, Nice link. I know a little bit about airfoils. I have been into RC planes since I was a kid.

But I don't really know how much it matters for a rudder on a boat? Do foil changes really make a big or even noticeable difference for a cruising boat for a rudder? I know on my RC planes the main wing needed a good airfoil but when it came to the rudder and elevator a flat board was good enough. How do people usually get their rudders to match the foil shape? With RC planes its easy as you just print the foil shape out then use a hot wire bow to cut the foam core.

I guess this could work with some types of foam for boat rudders too but what about wood? I did use the veneer lines. I thought the lines were parallel enough that sanding the fairing compound would lead to a pretty straight result.

I can see that the lines are not totally straight but pic one shows a failed? I took too much material away in some areas and elected to fill those areas later rather than taking more material away to make it even. Given my glassing job I doubt much more accuracy here would have made a differnce anyway The pencil lines were made so I could trace the veneer lines on paper then draw them on the other side to get the same shape on both sides.

The thing was I didn't actually have any particular foil shape, just whatever looked OK. But I hear you that my job was pretty shithouse I wont argue there. Maybe I next time I can do what I do for a RC plane wing and draw the airfoil on both ends then shave it to that profile on the ends, and from there I can make parallels down the whole rudder?

Given I will actually have a real foil shape then it might pay to put more effort into keeping the lines straight and doing a decent glassing job. Thanks for the tips Does anyone have any input on the new and old rudder sizes? On small, light weight boats, a plywood rudder is acceptable, as the loads are fairly light, but once you get over 18', the loads increase enough to make plywood a less desirable rudder material.

A better wooden approach for a boat of this size is a strip planked blade. The pictures aren't great, but you can see the foil sections are being cut. These pictures where taken as I switched foil templates, which was routed across the blade. You can see the quarter sawn strips about 1. What can't be seen is the alternating grain orientation to eliminate internal stresses. PAR , Sep 28, Great reference thread!

Thanks PAR. I really should have made this thread before I started the build. Do you think my rudder is strong enough realistically? The ply is about 27mm thick at the top where it joins the stock since some material had to be removed so it would fit in.

The old rudder didn't snap from normal use. But I assume the extra length will only put more stress on it. I still don't understand how you use a router to accurately cut the foil shape? The break in the picture looks just like what a break from a rolling shear failure looks like. You may have had some internal fiber failures, but the blade was still whole and the drive way was the straw that broke it's back. In other words it broke at it's weakest point when it hit the driveway.

Why did you add length to the blade? Thee are a few methods that I know of for using a router jig to cut foil sections. Naturally each has good and bad points about them. The blade I show was for a light weight, 17' daysailor and finished about 1" thick. Because the blade changed shaped pretty dramatically along it's length I elected to make several templates and adjust the foil type along the length.

The top portion of the blade was a surface piercing shape, the middle portions transitioned from to and the end of the blade was a 63 series section. This caused me to have to cut in 6" sections at a time, but this isn't unusual. The setup can be tedious for these router jigs, but you end up with precise sectional shapes and more importantly symmetrical foils.

The bade is over 32mm thick in total for most of the span. Only the section that goes into the stock was shaved to 27mm so the glass could pack it out to 30mm so it would fit in.

The stock slot is 30mm. That just happens to be the most stressed part of the rudder too. This boat was used Building A Sailboat Mast 40 for racing and was apparently one of the fastest trailer boats in Moreton bay 40 years ago. It was owned by the Commodore of the Manly Yacht Club. Now its performance would be regarded as slow with all the cruising "improvements" my dad made to it.

Its much slower than my Binks I lengthened the rudder to the same length as my Binks 25 which is the same length but lighter. It now appears to the same size as most other boats of this length where before it was much smaller than the average.

The rudder just seemed too small and always seemed to drive though the water at a overly large angle of attack.





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