$@# Fiberglass Boat Building And DIY Guide &^@!

How to make a fiberglass boat? | Yahoo Answers Sep 24, �� This is probably the one phase of boat construction where builders have tried hardest to streamline their procedures. Their key weapon is the molded hull liner, which is simply another large fiberglass part incorporating elements of a boat�s interior that is inserted into a hull. The rest of the boat required a small amount of douglass fir lumber, about ring shank nails, 8 yards of 6oz bidirectional fiberglass cloth, gallons of polyester resin(If i did it again I would use epoxy resin), and some electrical fence wire(for stitching panels together). Fiberglass, carbon fiber, Kevlar and many other fabrics provide the ultimate in construction options Take advantage of these modern materials when building a boat or other project. Choose from twill weave carbon fiber, plain weave carbon fiber, unidirectional carbon fiber, fiberglass sheets, biaxial fiberglass, fiberglass cloth, fiberglass matting, woven roving, Kevlar tape, Kevlar rolls, and.
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It won't have enough strength until the joints have been fiberglassed. Note: wear a respirator. Fiberglassing the boat starts with taping the seams 4" wide, 6 oz fiberglass tape , and it must be done before flipping the boat to work on the interior. Start with the transom 1. Mix resin 3. Coat the transom with a small roller saturated in resin 4.

Lay the pre-cut cloth into the resin 5. Carefully pull out wrinkles 6. Set the cloth into the resin with the roller starting from the center and working towards and over the edges to ensure there are no wrinkles or bubbles. Panel Seams. Bottom to bilge panel seam first.

Bilge to side panels second. Stem third two layers. Roll out enough fiberglass tape to cover the entire seam back to front. Coat the area with resin. Lay tape into resin 4. Use roller to lay flat and distribute resin.

Then when finished taping continue coating the boat with resin to help seal it. Now Take a week off and let everything dry before sanding. Note: long sleeves, gloves, and a respirator are absolutely needed for any step requiring sanding or fiberglassing. If you look closely you can see where the putty oozed through.

At this point it is time to glass the frames in place. Which means removing the frame blocks from the frames one side at a time, applying a putty fillet, then resin, and fiberglass tape. Once dry remove the blocks from the other side of each frame to repeat the process. You will also need to putty and fiberglass the interior of the hull panel seams at this point.

After you are finished with all of that the center pieces of each frame can be cut out with a jigsaw and the top edges sanded over.

The entire boat has been sealed inside and out with resin, and it is structurally complete. Technically you could add paint and put it in the water now, but I think we should go a little farther and completely fiber glass the exterior of the hull. We don't need the fiberglass for strength. It is strong enough. We want it for abrasion resistance. The process is much easier than most people think and this boat can be completely fiberglassed in a few hours. Before starting carfully remove all dust from the hull.

Measure the length of the boat and cut two lengths of cloth at least six inches longer. Trim the cloth to the shape of the boat.

Apply resin to bottom panel, again smoothing it out. Apply to side panel 7. Note: Don't be afraid to pull on the fiber glass to get out wrinkles, and be sure it is fully saturated and stuck to the plywood. You must work quickly, but don't panic.

This was the first thing I ever attempted fiberglassing and it turned out great. If I can do it anyone can. The first step to attaching the skeg is building one. Then have someone hold the skeg against a straight edge while screwing and gluing it in from underneath. This is much easier than it sounds. Then, just like in previous steps putty and fiberglass it in with the fiberglass tape.

Now, If I were to do it again I would have made the Skeg " deep. That is my only regret in building the boat. I started carefully with 60 grit on a few spots then stepped up to , , then grit. It's just one of those thing you have to do. This is time consuming, and boring. There are all kinds of paints you can use, I decided to use exterior house paint and it is holding up pretty well so far. There are a ton of ways to paint it, but since my boat is being stored inside I'm okay with my choice.

I simply rolled on primer, then rolled on paint with the shortest nap roller I could find. This is the easiest part of the project. Then starting from the back and working forward nailed it to the hull from the inside with ring shank nails.

I then rounded the edges and polyurethaned them. Nail spacing was 6 inches. Originally, I found shorter lengths 8ft long and scarfed them together just to try.

It worked, but for something that would be bumping into things I just didn't trust it enough with such a sharp curve to the boat. The final step to building this boat is the interior, rather than go into great detail I will just show pictures of what I did.

There are so many ways to customize it, and since my interior is so simple I think it is best to let your imagination run wild. Remember that you can do anything you want with it like I did or stick to the plans exactly. Once finished be sure to paint the interior of the hull, and varnish or polyurethane all the wood brightwork. If you look at all the pictures you can see how my interior evolved.

By the time you get to this point in building the boat you should be getting some decent woodworking experience. This semester introduces the students to the necessity of being efficient in both time management and product usage, all in context to the real world demand of meeting a deadline and overcoming obstacles in the process of manufacturing. The second semester of the Composite Boat Building program builds upon the skills learned in the first by requiring students to continue the production of composite products for in-house application, such as parts for boats being built or serviced in other programs.

The students continue to develop plugs and molds for products, and begin studying the beginnings of structural mechanics in order to gain a fundamental understanding of the engineering and design of composite marine vessels. Finally, each student is required to plan and produce a final project; the process includes the budgeting of materials and development of a production schedule for the final product.

As a student in the Composite Boat Building Program at The Landing School, you will explore the future of construction � lightweight, durable composite materials that push the limits of performance, in everything from furniture to aerospace applications. You will gain first-hand knowledge of composite materials such as fiberglass, carbon and aramids, learning to assess their key properties strength, stiffness, structural mechanics for suitability in boat design and production.

Fabrication techniques such as hand layup, vacuum-infusion and pre-preg part making are also covered in detail, building your expertise in both open- and closed molding environments. Students also work on project boats under highly experienced instructors to develop a solid foundation in boat building, from concept through construction. As a final project, you will pursue your own Capstone project.

Students have pitched anything from developing composite car parts to violins. This experience mimics development in a real-world setting and challenges you to deliver detailed building techniques, budgets and schedules.

To earn a diploma in the Composite Boat Building Program, you must attend The Landing School full time for two semesters about eight months and meet all graduation criteria. Students wishing to pursue an Associate of Applied Science degree can choose to stay an additional year and complete a second program, plus general education coursework.

The U. For more information, please call or fill out a contact form. This is a highly structured curriculum that prepares individuals for the real world demands of manufacturing composite material and products for the marine industry. Student Body. Board of Trustees. TLS Merchandise. Title IX. How to Apply. Financing Options. Bulkheads and partitions in these cases are not bonded directly to the hull, but are fitted and glued into pre-molded slots in the hull liner and overhead deck liner or, alternatively, are bolted to special flanges in the liner.

This relatively light bond should then be improved by tabbing the liner to the hull with glass tape anywhere there is access to contact points between the two parts. Such access, however, is always limited, and work spaces are often cramped and awkwardly situated.

In the end, it is never possible to create as strong a structure as is formed when all individual components are bonded piece by piece directly to the hull. If the hull is unduly stressed, the liner may break free in some areas. I have heard more than one tale of mass-produced boats failing like this in strong weather. Such damage can be difficult to detect and is always difficult to repair. It may involve cutting away and then rebuilding large portions of the liner in situ, which may prompt an underwriter to declare the boat a total loss.

The best practice is to create the hull liner in small sections and install the parts separately. Ideally, support for the bottom of the hull, usually a grid of some kind, is laid in first. One-piece grid pans are often used, but it is best if the grid is built up in place with each part bonded directly to the hull. Bulkheads and hopefully partitions should also be bonded directly to the hull. Separate interior liner sections can then be laid in place around the bulkheads and on top of the grid.

It is easier to create strong bonds between the hull and these smaller, more discrete parts; the bulkheads and bilge structure will also both offer more support to the hull than would otherwise be the case.

Another disadvantage to a hull liner, no matter how it is installed, is that it limits or precludes access to the hull once it is in place. This makes it hard or impossible to repair damage to the hull from within the boat without first cutting away the liner. If the hull is breached while underway, a liner makes it harder to both find and staunch any leak, which is why some cautious cruisers always carry a heavy tool such as an ax or crowbar for quickly tearing away a liner in an emergency.

I had a feeling there would be issues with bonding to the hull �onwards � more importantly � must look at engine mountings before engine arrives, thanks again, S xxx.

Now reading this article I realize that my concern is well placed.

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