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Part 1 - Part 2 - Part 3. Being addicted to boatbuilding can be a problem. You may acquire more boats than you have time or space for. Even for simple boats, the outlay can be a considerable dent on the domestic budget.
And while your spouse may love sailing as much as you do and appreciate the grains, textures, and fine workings of wood, she may get tired of sawdust wafting in the air and being tracked in the house. An ideal solution is to find a friend who wants a boat, and then help him or her build it. This arrangement had considerable advantages:.
Olivier is an architect by trade, and was constantly applying lessons from that craft to Goat Island Skiff Plans Free Names the art of boatbuilding. He wanted a design that would be performance oriented, but not excessively demanding. He had seen the balanced lugs on my Jim Michalak Piccup and Frolic2 designs as well as had sailed on the Frolic2 , and favored that rig. Also, Olivier, despite my reassurances about its building ease, had misgivings about tack-and-tape construction and liked the hard-chine style of the skiff.
For my part, I had built a couple of hard chined boats before, but both had external chine logs; so the internal logs of the GIS would be a new twist. In January, Olivier acquired the plans and an epoxy kit from Duckworks, some beautiful Meranti quarter-inch marine ply, and cedar, pine and spruce lumber from a local yard.
We were off. The significantly less expensive price for the high quality ply was also a factor. The time is a rough estimate. Omitted is time for meals and just standing around looking at plans or the boat. Lay out and cut all bulkheads and transom. Lay out the paper patterns for the sides, trace, cut out, and use as pattern to make the second side.
Butt strap the side panels together to make the two sides. Time: about 5 hours. At the end of the first day, we had the sides assembled and glued and a the transom and a pile of bulkheads. Not bad for the first day! Rip cedar into proper size pieces for the chines and the bulkhead framing.
Measure, cut and glue most of the bulkhead and transom framing, allowing overlaps of the framing for beveling. Glue on the internal chine. Plane and sand the bevels into the bulkhead framing and finish gluing the transom and bulkhead framing. Cut the chine notches into the bottom corners of most of the bulkheads. Possibly the trickiest part to make was the stem, which has a variable thickness and bevel for its entire length.
We laminated a piece up to the maximum thickness, and then drew the stem full size. Saw cuts were made down almost to the penciled lines, which allowed most of the excess wood to be chiseled off. Planes, surforms, and sanders did the rest of the shaping work. Olivier, shown with the surform, proved to have a real flair for work like Goat Island Skiff Plans Free 20 this. Total time to make the stem: about two man-hours.
In between, sessions 3 and 4, Olivier removes screws from the framing and chines, begins filling the screw holes with thickened epoxy, and cuts the last chine notches in the bulkheads.
He also cuts the limber holes in the middle two bulkheads. Attach the sides to the stem with screws only, and then dry fit the sides around the bulkheads and transom. Remove one by one, add thickened epoxy to the hull side and bulkheads and reattach.
Use a trailer tie down strap with ratchet as a Spanish windlass to hold the ends when gluing the transom and stem. Fill any gaps by the bevels not being precise with thickened epoxy. Measure, cut out, and laminate the daggerboard, adding carbon fiber between the ply layers. Time: about 6 hours. Layout from paper templates bottom panels, check on hull for fit. Bevel chines and frames. Remove screws used to attach bulkheads, stem and transom.
Cut bottom panels, leaving slightly oversized, and glue on butt straps. Measure and cut centerboard case sides, cut and glue on most of internal and external case framing. Time: About 6 hours. Apply three coats of epoxy to inside of centerboard case, the last with graphite powder, and then glue the case together. Time: 3 hours. Cut and install framing for fore and aft decking, including center supports and gussets.
Mark slot for centerboard on bottom. Time: 5 hours. In between, remove clamps from fore and aft deck framing, cut and begin shaping for final fit of foredeck. Time, four hours. To comment on Duckworks articles, please visit our forum. Part 1 - Part 2 - Part 3 Being addicted to boatbuilding can be a problem. As an architect, Olivier had access to a large CAD printer and so printed full size patterns of the sides. Those had to be cut with scissors and then carefully laid out and scribed on the plywood.
Olivier makes the first cuts with a jigsaw. Later we went to a circular saw with the blade set just keep enough to go through the ply and found that faster, just as accurate and with smoother curves.
The first side, after cutting, is laid on the ply as the pattern for the second side panel. It may be a little hard to see, but here are some of the penciled drawings for cutting out the transom and bulkheads. A lot of ripping of timber during this session and then cutting it and fitting for framing of the bulkheads.
Olivier cuts an access hole, which will be covered with a deckplate, that will allow access to the watertight storage under the stern seat.
The framing has been attached, but not notched for the chine, which proved to be a moderately fussy job. About this time, Olivier got a Japanese pull saw, which made such fine work easier. Also, designer Storer does not give the bevel angles for the framing; instead he specifies an overlap distance which is planed to make the correct bevel. This worked okay, but I have a personal preference for having the angles which then can be precut into the framing with a circular saw.
The sides are temporarily fit to the stem and the forward two bulkheads as the boat begins to take shape. As a bonus, the torturing add a subtle and lovely twist to the bow.
The transom is added. We found that the racheting tie down straps available inexpensively at boat and hardware stores make an excellent and easy to use Spanish windlass.
Here it holds the transom in place for a trial fitting. The bulkheads were removed one by one and reinstalled with glue. Suddenly, it looks like a boat! Designer Storer gives three options for the centerboard.
Once is to use an old Laser board and the mast and sail instead of the designed balanced lug. A second option is to laminate timber strips, which are planed to the designed thickness and then shaped into the centerboard. The third is to laminate plywood. I happened to have some scrap carbon fiber, nearly as thick as normal fiberglass woven roving. We decided to laminate that between plywood layers and make it the full length of the strip version.
We got around that by butting two scraps together, lengthwise, and putting a layer of fiberglass tape on each side to get a piece big enough for the seat. It shows no weaknesses along the butt.
The bottom panel was roughly laid out and then placed on the bottom for final measuring, and then cut oversize. Here weights hold the butt straps in place while the epoxy sets. The chines are fitted to extend beyond the bottom of the boat, so they can be planed flat before the bottom is attached.
The framing on the bulkheads also extends below the bottom and must be beveled. Some of the as yet unfilled screw holes can be seen in the side panel. Framing is cut and sized for the centerboard case. Storer does not recommend fiberglassing the inside section of the case, but does recommend three coats of epoxy, allowing each coat to begin to harden before applying the next one. The coating was actually done in the next session and we also added graphite powder to the last coat, to increase abrasion resistance.
The case was clamped together after the third coat was applied. I was worried that the 1x1 framing red cedar seemed a little on the light side, but so far it has seem plenty strong enough in practice. Note how the triangular shaped ply gussets are used where two frames intersect.
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