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Lawrence Cheek is a journalist and sailor from Whidbey Island, Washington. He is just about to complete the trunk cabin of his sixth boat. The first cruising couple I ever met who was sailing an aluminum boat told me an interesting story. They were French�of course. When finally they decided to move on, they jumped in the water to scrape the A weather forecast�like an old-school dead-reckoning plot�will decrease in certainty with the passage of time.
He had something to prove. During his first attempt, knockdowns off Cape It was a clear, calm day far How To Build A Dinghy Sailboat Not Work from land. The gentle wind drove us smartly along through the royal-blue ocean. Out of February 2, was a beautiful Sunday afternoon. After a few extra The sky is dark, and the air cold. Measuring 20 degrees deadrise at the It was blowing 25 knots when the inner forestay let go. Eclipse, my Tayana 42, was screaming along on a broad reach just south of Saint Thomas.
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Woodboat building questions a Forum for wooden boat building, plans, lumber, caulking compounds and other boat building problems. A Worm Shoe is a non structural piece of wood whose 'sole' purpose is to protect the underwater wooden parts of a wooden boat keel, they need checking and replacing regularly. Ring Nails sometimes call Gripfast or ring shank, silicon bronze boat nails are renowned for their holding power. Wood Screws are the most widely used and versatile fasteners used on wooden boats.
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Woodboat materials questions a Forum for Wooden Boat owners on wood, caulking, epoxy, sail cloth and related problems. Privacy Policy. Advertising Policy. Cookie Policy. I am perfectly aware that the majority of Wooden Boat aficionados are sensible folk. However, I need to point out that I am an amateur wooden boat enthusiast simply writing in order to try to help other amateur wooden boat enthusiasts. DIY Wood Boat. I used 3 - 1x3's of hemlock.
A relatively soft wood, but with a nice tight grain with no knots. A mast would break at a knot, regardless of how strong the wood is. Using the waterproof glue, align the pieces as perfectly as you can then clamp up the assembly and let dry overnight. Then run it through a table saw to get the final dimensions.
Use a router and a round-over bit to ease the edges. Cut to length and sand the sharp corners. It should fit easily, but snugly into the forward thwart.
The boom bottom of sail is a little more complicated. Cut out the gooseneck boom pivot point by using a hole saw first, making sure to clamp it securely to the workbench, then cut out the profile. This gets attached to another piece of 1x3 hemlock, after it's been cut to length and the edges have been rounded over. The yard top of sail is easy. Just cut to length and round over the edges.
Drill and fill any holes in the spars at this time. You'll need at least one hole on each end to lash the sail grommets to. This time, everything gets covered with several coats of varnish, epoxy is not necessary. The varnish protects the wood from water and UV damage. The reason we had to make at least the mast at this point is because we'll need it in the next step to establish the location of the mast step. Once the outwales are successfully attached, trim them flush with the face of the transom s.
While you're at it, use a flush cut saw with no sawtooth offset to mar the wood to trim the sides flush with the transom. This will show you how well your injected silica mix worked earlier. Now you're ready to install the mast step. The mast step must be precisely located on the floor sole of the boat to give the mast the proper angle rake. This is very important because it directly affects the boat's ability to sail upwind. Using your mast, insert it into the forward thwart partner and into the mast step.
Use a combination square to make sure it's perfectly aligned side to side athwartship. You can now set the mast aside. Drill and fill holes in the bottom of the boat so that you can securely screw the mast step from the outside of the hull. The mast base must also be epoxied to the sole with peanut butter.
After it's screwed into place but before the epoxy cures, make sure to test fit the mast again and verify the rake angle is correct. It would be a little messy at this point if you had to tweak it, but at least you wouldn't have to cut it off. Now comes the most unpleasant part of the whole build. On your hands and knees, make a 1" radius fillet on the underside of every part in the boat.
I didn't worry about making these pretty, just structural and water tight these create the flotation tanks that keep the boat from sinking if you capsize. Let that cure overnight. Next is the scariest part of the build, making the slot in the hull for the daggerboard. Using a drill bit extension, from the inside of the boat, reach down through the daggerboard case and drill a hole at each end of the slot through the bottom of the boat make sure to use a backer board.
Drill a couple holes in between, then take a jigsaw and connect the dots. This weakens the hull enough so that the router won't tear out any extra wood. Note, this step can easily be done prior to affixing the center thwart. This will make the hole in the hull perfectly match the slot. This is important because you don't want a shoulder on the inside for the daggerboard to hit and you don't want to damage the waterproof lining of the case. Last, ease the sharp edge of the daggerboard slot with the router and a small radius round-over bit.
Make sure to snap a chalk line on the centerline of the boat for reference. Then make a 1" fillet where it meets the hull which will support the skeg and make it strong. The skeg keeps the boat tracking straight in the water. I optionally used some fiberglass cloth to cover the skeg and overlap onto the bottom to make the entire assembly stronger and more waterproof.
The skeg will take the brunt of the abuse How To Build A Dinghy Sailboat Email Address when launching, beaching, loading and unloading, etc. I also installed a stainless steel rubstrake on the aft end of the skeg with this in mind.
In wooden boat building, silicone bronze screws are often used because they won't corrode when encapsulated like stainless steel screws can. Install the skids parallel to the skeg. These are solid pieces of hardwood because they will also take a lot of abuse when the boat is sitting on shore, protecting the thin hull from rocks, etc.
They get installed the same way as the skeg, although it's a little tough to bend the wood along the rocker. Scrape off the excess peanut butter once they're screwed in place. I also installed the optional outboard motor pad at this point because I plan to use an electric trolling motor on the back to quietly putter around the lake in the evenings to relax with the family after work.
Now comes the last dash to the finish line. One of the more tedious steps is that you now have to sand the entire boat. I actually built the entire boat inside, but for the sanding stage, I took her outside. Several hours of sanding all of the fillets nice and smooth.
Everything will show in the finished product whether you paint the boat or leave it "bright" unpainted. If you've been careful about cleaning up the peanut butter as you go, you should be able to sand the boat with mostly grit.
Be careful not to sand through the thin veneer of the plywood. After the sanding is done make sure to use a dust mask , vacuum the entire boat and then wipe it down with a tack cloth to remove any dust. I also reversed the hose on the shop vac and used it to blow the sawdust off since I was outside. Next, you must coat the entire interior and exterior with coats of unthickened epoxy. This makes the entire boat waterproof. It will also give you an idea of how beautiful the wood will look when varnished.
This is why a lot of boat builders decide to leave their boats bright so the beauty of the wood shows through. Mix up 1 cup batches of unthickened epoxy and pour out large puddles onto the surface.
Taking a foam roller, distribute the epoxy in a smooth coat. Now take a wide foam brush and gently smooth tip the rolled out surface. This should remove any lap marks or bubbles. Move along to the next area, making sure to not touch the wet parts. Also, make sure no dust or bugs get on your finish or it'll mean even more sanding later. Start with the exterior first. It'll be much easier to get good by practicing on the convex surfaces.
The interior is more tricky because you want to prevent sags and pooling by only applying very thin coats. Make sure to check with the manufacturer's directions during this step in case you have to deal with "blushing", a thin layer that can sometimes form on the surface of epoxy when it cures.
This could cause your layers to not stick to each other. If your epoxy does blush, it's easy to just wipe the entire boat down with a rag soaked in acetone after each coat has cured. Some people sand between coats of epoxy.
I'm planning on banging my boat around so opted out of an extreme, fancy, mirror finish. I was originally going to paint the exterior of the hull, which would require priming and painting, but I'm leaving it bright for the time being.
The good news is that you can always paint later if you change your mind, but if you paint it and change your mind, it's tough to go back. There aren't a lot of pics of this step, which took a couple of days because there wasn't much visible progress after that first coat went on. At this point, any surface that's not painted should be varnished using the same "roll and tip" method as the epoxy, with the optional sanding between coats.
Note that epoxy has no UV resistance, so to keep your boat from getting sunburned, you must either paint or varnish every surface. Another step you can do while other parts are curing is make the sail. This particular design uses a "lug" sail, a classic looking sail for small boats with wood masts. It increases the sail area therefore the force generated by the wind without it having to be as tall as a modern sailboat mast made of aluminum.
There is a kit from an online sailmaking company that you can get for a reasonable price. The Dacron cloth panels are all cut out by a CNC machine, so they fit perfectly together.
I used a regular, domestic sewing machine, not an industrial one. The only time I had trouble was when sewing through all 7 layers at the reinforcement patches. When I got to those parts, I had to manually push down on the foot of the sewing machine with a flat-bladed screwdriver minus to help push the needle through the Dacron. We jokingly call Philips head screwdrivers "plus". The directions were a bit confusing because they suggest you make sub-assemblies after the fact to make wrangling the large sail easier but they mention it after you've already sewn the large panels together.
It's important to understand what parts go together while the panels are still small and more manageable. For example, the batten pockets are tricky enough to build on a single panel, much less the finished sail.
Building the sail was about as difficult for me as building the boat, but it was worth it. The lug sail gets reinforcement patches on all four corners where you attach it to the spars bend , and there's also a reefing point for when the wind starts to pick up freshen.
Modern sails have three corners Marconi rig. Before I sewed a single stitch, I carefully traced every part of the sail kit onto painter's tarp poly film so I can always use the templates to build another sail, all I need to do is buy the tanbark cloth.
This seems to be the trickiest part for most people, probably because there are numerous ways it can be successfully rigged, depending on your experience, preferences or criteria.
It's confusing because you have to know what the finished setup will look like in your mind while you're staring at a pile of ropes. I chose a setup that allows the most room in the cockpit for a full-sized adult, so the mainsheet is led forward of the skipper's position. This keeps the skipper's attention forward so they're looking where they're going. I have another boat where the mainsheet is behind the skipper and it takes some practice getting used to.
I got fancy and spliced all my ends, but you can just as well use a bowline knot. I installed a cheek block at the top of the mast instead of the large diameter hole in the directions. I wanted the halyard to run as smoothly as possible when setting the sail.
Then I installed a pair of cleats at the base of the mast, one for the halyard and one for the downhaul cunningham. With both of these lines pulling in opposite directions, it locks the sail in place, flat, so it effectivley acts like a wing. The main halyard attaches to the gaff with a snap onto a padeye. I also used a small loop parrel around the mast and through the eye to keep the gaff located close to the mast. I looped the downhaul over the boom and down to the cleat to try to keep the gooseneck from twisting.
If you plan on installing oarlocks to row the boat, this decision becomes even more important to the final look of the boat. For the mainsheet, I made a short bridle between the handles on the transom with a small eye tied in the center.
This allows a place for the snap on the end of the mainsheet to attach to. I could've just as easily allowed the snap to slide, which would give the bridle the function of a traveler, but would affect its pointing ability sail upwind. The mainsheet is then run to a block on the end of the boom, then to another block in the middle of the boom. This leaves the main cockpit area unobstructed with running rigging. A stop knot at the end of the mainsheet will keep the mainsheet from getting away from you and give you something to grip.
The rudder pivot hardware gudgeons and pintles must be installed perfectly vertical and on the exact centerline of the boat so that she will sail well. Drill and fill the necessary holes for this hardware. Be careful with the spacing.
It's designed to be easily installed and uninstalled while underway. The tension on the mainsheet is easily manageable for any size skipper. On larger boats, the mainsheet is held by a fiddle block with a cam cleat, which is not necessary for a boat this size.
With that being said, a possible future upgrade would be to install a block and a camcleat somewhere on the centerline of the boat so that more advanced sailors wouldn't need to constantly have to oppose the tension on the mainsheet. Of course the trade-off would be the hardware would probably be somewhere you might want to sit. With the current setup, the centerboard is held down by gravity and must be pulled out of the slot when beaching.
Because I wanted to be able to go sailing by myself if needed, I made a dolly out of 2x4's and large pneumatic tires which makes the dolly float.
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