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Sawing, measuring in reverse order it works better , taping, strapping, gauging, painting, electric sanding, shaping, waiting, budgeting Do the best with what you have. This build required two sheets of plywood 1. So first step was to cut a strip of wood from the end of one of the sheets to overlay and glue to the join between the two sheets.
In most cases these days two part epoxy resin is used. I have worked with epoxy building model airplanes, but in this case, and in these volumes, my budget simply didn't allow for epoxy resin. In the end I think I used six liters of polyester resin.
From what I understand epoxy resin is a much better "glue", and that it may last longer. But for this build, it was not an option. Also, the marine varnish I added at the end provides the necessary UV protection. Withouth the varnish, both the epoxy and polyester resin would degrade faster in direct sunlight. I smeared thickened resin thickened with micro balloons around the joint, then stuck the joining strip over the joint, and placed some heavy stuff on top What a disaster.
Even with the weights the one end of the joint lifted up, and I was set up for a lot of sanding and alternative plans later in the job. The two sheets of plywood were offset in the joint, meaning that later on I would have to fill up the sides of the joint to have a smooth hull. It sucks, but I couldn't buy more sheets. So on I went! Have a look at the last image to see the bad join. The joint was nonetheless stable and strong, and I felt confident to forge ahead, knowing full well that there would come a time of pain I drew a cross center line along the length of the plywood sheet, and across the center join.
Then I used that as my zero point. From there I measured and marked all the points based on my computer design. I screwed short sharp whiteboard screws into the marked points.
Then I used a thin strip of wood to allow me to draw smooth curves by pressing the wood to conform to the line indicated by the screws. It worked really well. The plywood is thin, so I had to use quite a number of supports to hold the thin strips after it was cut.
Apparently the accuracy of the cuts are not that important, as this technique is very forgiving by allowing gaps between the assembled pieces of up to 10mm. In this build my parts lined up and I didn't push the envelope on that aspect. I think the biggest gap I had between boards was under 7mm. To reduce splitting and ragged edges on the plywood I used a metal cutting blade on my jigsaw with fine teeth. This worked reasonably well. Using duct tape I managed to get all the parts in place, and I was very happy, but amazed, to see that there were no major cockups or errors in my design.
I did feel that the top edge of the boat was too high, and decided to put a curve into the top edge. Eyeballing it convinced me that a dip of 11cm in the center of the boat would give me a pleasing line for the top edge.
I took the off the two top panels and, using a thin, long piece of wood, I marked out a curve that came down 11cm from the top edge. I cut this with the jigsaw by pressing together the two panels. This was a deviation from the plans. I only spent a couple of minutes planing and sanding the edges of the panels. My initial jigsaw cuts were accurate enough not to warrant a lot of time before starting the "stitching" process. I did place the panels on top of each other to coax them into an acceptable form of symmetry with the gentle planing and sanding.
I opted to use cable ties to stitch the panels together by drilling a couple of small holes along the seams at matching points. But honestly So I took a shortcut and used the hot glue gun to position and hold the panels together. Burnt my finger, but it went a lot faster.
I knew that I might struggle to get the glue off at a later stage, but I figured that glue was soft to sand, or pretty simple to scrape off with a chisel. I figured wrong of course - hot glue gets hots from friction when you sand it.
Then it just becomes glue while you try to sand it. I made a proper mistake by thinking that I can hot glue sticks in place to spread the sides of the boat. When I finally added the top side panels, the spreaders didn't work and I had to cut them off. A sense of foreboding arrived when the hot glue held so tight that I could not get the spreaders out and had to saw them off short.
I didn't like the way that the top sides of the canoe sagged and spread apart in the middle so I hot glued two long sticks along the sides of the boat to make it look better to my eye. This proved to be a good approach later on, as the boat kept a pleasing shape after the resin was added to the seams.
After doing the cable tie stitches and hot glue joins it was necessary to tape up all the seams in order to prevent the glue from running out in the next step of construction. When the panels are together and the tape goes on it really starts looking like a sleek design, so the build itself is an inspiring one!
I mixed up some polyester resin I was using a scale at that point thickened with fine sawdust from my orbital sander. It worked well, except that it was dark. I read somewhere that some shops sell color graded thickener or "wood flour". But one look out the window at Table Mountain in the distance assured me that I still live in Africa, and yes, I would probably find wood flour somewhere, but instead of going off on an expedition, I was happy to use my own "wood flour" Had no problem with it either and I will probably do the same in the future.
I didn't have much luck using a syringe to squeeze the resin along the seams. In the end it was much simpler to use a wooden tongue depressor and smear it roughly, then use the round tip of the stick to make a neat rounded glue seam.
At this point I made my biggest time wasting mistake I put the glue on way too thin. For some or other reason I thought that a neat thin line of glue in the joint was good. That was simply a bad thought and I suggest making a nice thick seam with the thickened resin. After a while I switched to mixing the resin and hardener in the ratio of one to two small plastic teaspoons of hardener to one paper cup of resin.
Polyester resin and hardener eats some plastics, so that little yoghurt holder in the picture was only used once Nothing to say about sanding Be sure that once you start seeing white dust the happiness level increases. I added more resin along all the seams to thicken them up after the first round of sanding Could have save myself a couple of hours in the process by simply applying the first batch a lot thicker.
I bought fibreglass tape to glue down over the seams next. You can just make out the fibreglass tape over the bottom seam in some of the pictures. I bought a thick tape that was difficult to saturate with the resin. If there is ever a next time I will go with strips of fibreglass tissue, or strips of medium weight cloth I define "medium weight" as the thickest cloth that will stay in place on the curve after saturating it with resin.
I have been having experience with fibreglass for the last 25 years, so it wasn't wholly new to me. I am always afraid that the resin won't cure properly. Luckily on this build it cured sufficiently every time. I glassed the two insides of the hull first. The idea was to get the shape as rigidly fixed as soon as possible.
I wanted to remove the two side pieces of wood that was preventing the canoe from bowing outwards as early on in the build as possible. I made a quick little angled tool to help me draw the bulkheads for the front and aft holds.
The idea was to cut holes in the boards and add watertight lids can't think of the correct "maritime" term now for those lids.
I Googl'd and found some Cape Town suppliers, but I was happy with buying the biggest plastic containers I could find to cut up and use for the holds. I read quite a bit on how other people built their boats, and from the start I picked up that these canoes like all canoes can be "tippy" One of the chief aggravating factors in this aspect is the height of your body above the floor of the canoe. The lower down you are, the less "tippy" the whole process of paddling becomes.
BUT I wanted to sit comfortably. So I stacked blocks of wood to measure the minimum height at which I would be comfortable. I found this to be a seat height of 14cm above the floor of the canoe. This was just about halfway up along the height of the canoe side. Considering that most racing canoes place you less than 5cm above the floor of the canoe in a padded seat in which you sink down further, my 14cm was bound to have an effect.
In any case I shaped the two seats based on their positions along the curved sides of the canoe. In the end each occupant has 90cm of legroom from the back of their seat to the tip of their toes.
This is a very comfortable measurement. In addition the taller person sitting at the back could have their feet underneath the front seat for additional leg room. Each seat was built from the same 4mm plywood as the rest of the boat, with three supporting pieces of pine wood. I opted to close up the bottom of the seats with more plywood. The seats were then covered with glass tissue and a layer of topcoat. I couldn't get the topcoat on smooth enough so I sanded it smooth and then left it so that I could add varnish on top when I did the final varnish on the whole of the boat.
In the pictures you may see a couple of dry spots in the fibreglass cloth on the hull I dont' really want to talk about sanding I considered the option of not fitting permanent seats, but rejected that eventually. Couple of reasons but I can't remember why right now In review I realized that I didn't want to add a "thwart" or cross-beam to the boat. The fixed seats meant I didn't have to do it. To position the seat supports I used a 14cm high block with a water level to mark the top and bottom position of each seat.
Then I planed the wood supports so that the seat would sit squarely on them. The seat supports are fastened to the side of the hull, meaning that they are set at an angle.
Thus the need to plane them. Initially I screwed the supports to the hull. Soon they were fixed in place with resin and wood flour glue. Then I removed the screws. Since I wanted two holds, front and aft, I needed bow and stern decks. Those needed to be curved, of course So I first cut supports that matched the curve of the bulkheads, and then I transferred the curve to a shorter support piece halfway between the tip and the bulkhead.
Glued and screwed those in place. The bulkheads were still loose and would only be installed once the decks had been installed and glued from the inside. The build process wasn't always in the order in which I am presenting it here.
In the pictures above you can see the first of the gunwhale strips already in place. I held down pieces of plywood over the deck areas, made a rough trace, then cut them out before glueing the decks onto the boat. I mixed thicked resin and generously coated the gunwhale and deck supports before clamping the deck at the widest point, and then systematically strapping the deck to the hull as tightly as I could manage.
I'm guessing there might be something wrong with this approach, but on this one I was shooting from the hip. I was very nervous about doing the decks, but it worked out really well. The last picture is a picture of the inside of the hold before I added additional epoxy. There was ample space to work inside the hold with the boat turned upside down, so I was able to add a thick bead of thickened resin along the entire length of the underside of the decks.
On the inside of the boat I first added a rectangular cross section strip that ran from hold bulkhead to hold bulkhead i.
NOT the entire length of the boat with a half round pine strip on top budget was an issue on this build. On the outside of the boat I added a half round pine strip that DID run the full length of the boat.
Then it was on to glueing and clamping. I went through the process six times, three for each side. So in terms of time spent I used a waterproof wood glue to glue the gunwhales.
This will work fine for this boat, as it will not be kept in the water permanently. Polyester resin does not have the same glue-like quality as epoxy so I couldn't glue the gunwhales with polyester resin. If I had been using epoxy the best choice would have been to glue the gunwhales with that.
On the inside of the boat I added a thick bead of thickened resin under the gunwhale. After the waterproof wood glue had set it was possible to strengthen the bond by adding this thickened resin that I shaped and smoothed with the wooden tongue depressor.
I didn't have enough clamps. Not by far. In the end it seems that the plans worked out as the gunwhales are glued very well. Pre-wet the plywood with resin, then added the pre-cut glass cloth and rolled on more resin.
At this point I also started building up the bow and stern with glass cloth. I wanted many more layers of cloth on the two ends than anywhere else.
This happened to be the biggest mistake in the whole build. This was done on a Sunday afternoon - meaning that nowhere in the immediate vicinity was a place where I could buy more resin So I precut the cloth, laid it in the boat, and proceeded to mix resin and work it into the cloth I did my best, without trying to squeeze too much resin out of the areas that I could wet effectively.
I was very angry at myself for making this mistake. So the next day I set out to buy more resin and try to salvage what I could. Needless to say there were numerous problems, some of which you can see in these pictures. This was fairly straightforward I wet the deck support and sides with some clear resin, then placed the bulkheads in position and proceeded to cement them in place with thick beads of thickened resin spread along the joints.
Time came to glue the seats in place. They had to rest on the seat supports, with the added role of stiffening the boat. Fixing the seats meant that I didn't need to add a yoke to the boat to keep the sides at a fixed distance.
This was one of the advantage of fixed seating. At this late stage of the game I found a solution for my actual blister-sanded fingers. The problem all along had been how to sand the curved seams in the boat efficiently. This solution, using a dowel as curve guide, with some camping mattress sponge wrapped around it, became a much-loved tool. I could save my hand and finger muscles, while applying maximum sanding area to the glass. The piles of glass dust quickly built up using this method of sanding.
I had wanted to add some colorful African design to the boat, but time was piling up and the summer holiday was approaching. So I opted for a single thick black line running from bow to stern. The thickness of the line was determined by the lowest and highest line of the seam in the side of the hull. In the picture you can see the seam running inside the black stripe. The stripe was painted using an oil-based paint, painted directly onto the plywood. I had several meters of high quality, very fine cloth left from building model aeroplane composite gliders, so I opted to use that for the outside of the hull.
I glassed that, and was again reminded why I hated that specific cloth weight. Just have a look in the second photograph at the problems that came up And even more sanding. I took the glass cloth right up to the gunwhale, but not over. I spent a half day each on sanding the underside of each outside gunwhale. A that point I managed to get really frustrated with all the sanding!
In order to strengthen the bottom of the boat I added three layers of varying thickness, with two rectangular squares as extra patches in the area where we would stand. I took special care to cover the bottom seam of the canoe with overlapping cloth since it would receive a lot of bumps during use. Higher up on the outside of the hull I settled for one layer of thin cloth. While adding cloth to the bottom I always added extra glass to the stern and bow lines. In the end those areas have at least six overlapping layers of glass, sanded to conform to the hull shape and blended into the sides of the hull with a lot of sanding.
One of the best pieces of advice that I read during my research was that one shouldn't stand in the boat on dry land. I tried it and it is definitely an uncomfortable sensation hearing the wood and composite layers flex. On the water the 4mm plywood and 4 layers of cloth 3 outside, one inside feel amazingly solid without making any noises or bending much. I suspect that in the water the whole boat can respond to a weight bearing on it instead of a localized area when the boat is stressed on dry land.
To protect the gunwhale from paddle strikes I added a one inch wide layer of glass tissue to the top flat area of the gunwhale. I stuck wax paper to the wet glass.
When the resin cured I could easily pull the wax paper away from the glass. It did leave a fairly nice surface, but I didn't use the method on both gunwhales. It looked to me like the wax paper was prone to pulling fibres away making small bubbles. I purchased 1 liter of marine varnish for the boat. And honestly, it is the best varnish that I have ever used.
I love the smell of it, and I love the result. The marine varnish sands really well, and adding successive coats is simple. I used sandpaper and a scotch pad to sand between coats. When the boat hit the water the first time it had four coats of marine varnish.
At some point I had to speed up the process since we were already in the summer holidays and watertight got preference over neatness. However, I do plan to spend some time resanding the hull and getting rid of some drips under the gunwhales.
After varnishing the inside of the boat, the seats, bulkheads, decks and outside of the hull I still have about a twentieth of the 1 liter tin left. But I will buy another liter and add some more layers of varnish by the end of the summer. Time to get to the water Getting in was really, really difficult the first time. It would have been easier to try this at a river or lakeside where my feet could be lower than the bottom of the boat. Getting in from the edge of the pool was nerve wracking. As expected the canoe was really unstable I am overweight and the seats are 14cm off the floor, remember but we managed to sit in it while holding on to the edge of the pool.
Later on I managed to stay upright for short periods of time. The best result was me sitting in the boat with my feet hanging over the sides.
Doing that allowed me to stay upright without tipping over. This called for some action as it would have been unsafe to let my 4yr old daughter into the boat and onto a river with the boat as unstable as this. But I think the my overweightness is not good. I have no aspirations of being a swimsuit model, but I could not leave out the pictures of my dog, Roxy, finally enjoying her time in the canoe.
From the first build pictures she was there. Any time that I got into the canoe she would also get in. Roxy doesn't swim and is scared of water. But she climbs into the canoe with great confidence and with no coaxing from me. What a dog! I looked around the garage for the biggest pieces of wood I had left.
This determined the size of the outrigger. I would've made it bigger if I had longer pieces of wood. As for how long the outrigger poles yeah I didn't reseach what the proper name for the "poles" is should be That was trial and error. So I cut that in half, and the angle of the short joining pieces probably gave me an extra 15cm.
The rowing gap in between the side of the hull and the outrigger is approximately 60cm, which upon testing, proved to be sufficient. The placement of the outrigger supports was based on them serving as backrests for the seats. Since the outrigger is cm long, I would assume that the distance between the two supports, when sitting in the boat, is about 1 meter.
Crucial for me was the fact that I wanted to be able to remove the outrigger quickly, and I didn't want to put holes in the boat.
So I had to come up with some kind of clamping system. To make the clamps I cut slots into the outrigger supports that would allow the galvanised screws from the clamps to slide back and forth. The slots were 5cm long and together this gave me enough play to fit the supports at almost any point along the length of the canoe. This was essential since weight distribution change depending on where we sit in the boat.
The clamps were made with round wooden wheels they provide enough grip to fasten the clamp to the boat with an 8mm diameter screw passing through the middle. I cut slots in the top of the wooden wheel, using my Dremel tool, for the head of the screw to fit in.
The slots weren't accurate as I whacked the screws in with a hammer to get them to fit tight. The bottom part of the clamp was simple a short piece of wood with an angled edge that would grip under the gunwhale. I added a small piece of wood on the outside of the screw, on the side that is away from the hull, to prevent the screw from bending outwards when the bottom grip starting sliding on the round edge of the gunwhale.
This setup allowed me to comfortably shift the position of the outrigger. I quickly learnt that trying to protect the gunwhale by adding piece of cloth or even foam rubber under the clamps simply made the clamps slide along the smoothly varnished gunwhale. So I ditched the idea of trying to protext the gunwhale. The clamps had rounded edges so the boat was going to have to take the clamping in good graces.
So while I was building the boat I spent time cutting and glue laminating the paddle blades and shaft. It was two be two one-bladed paddles - Indian style! By the time the summer holidays came round, and based on the stability issue, based on my family's receding patience with me sanding all the time, and based on the need for the whole thing to be water-ready, I redesigned the paddle to be a double bladed paddle, and I let go of the notion of crafting a beautiful laminated wooden paddle.
To get it done I added a sanding pad to my electric drill and proceeded to power carve the blades into some kind of shape. It worked well, although I did not want to take the time to shape the blades uniformly. I had thought that I could use a block plane to shape the blades, but the fact that I laminated a piece of hardwood to the end of the paddles screwed up that plan. The hardwood received the planing action cross-grain and would break out terribly.
In future I won't glue a piece of wood cross-grain at the end of a paddle So the blades had to be shaped by sanding, as mentioned. I don't have a belt sander. That would have made life easier, I suspect. In any case, I researched "feathering", or the angle by which the two blades are offset from each other. The best guideline I could fine was that the paddle could possibly be made to support the flow of your paddling stroke, with the aim of allowing your wrists to stay in a neutral position.
So on it was to "air rowing". I stuck the blades at the end of the paddle and settled for an angle that would be somewhere between 15 and 35 degrees offset from each other. This has since proven to have been a good decision. Supposedly the higher your paddling stroke, the more the blades will twist in the air, requiring a greater offset up to 45 degrees.
I painted polyester resin onto the shaft and blades, reinforced one side of the blade join with fibreglass cloth, and covered the whole of the one side of each blade with cloth. The end result is a fairly light paddle. It looks good, rows good and is extremely strong.
The feathering between the blades is comfortable, and the length of the shaft allows me to get my hands close to the water without having to lean to either side for reach.
I left my offroad vehicle somewhere where I can't find it, so I was stuck with transporting the canoe on the roof of my city car. I cut a "pool noodle" water toy in half, stuck it under the canoe, and strapped the canoe to the roof.
It works, is stable and as long as I keep to the speed limit, within comfortable safety parameters. My 4 yr old daughter got a small swimming vest that looks and functions like a life jacket. For myself, I will invest in a proper life jacket before we go out on any big waters. I doubt whether she will accompany me there since she can't sit still for that length of time.
Safety will always be my first concern. Sea currents, fast moving water, wave height even on inland waters and wind are things that all paddlers should be mindful off.
Our boat tracks well enough to enjoy the row. Without the outrigger tracking will of course improve. Turning radius is not small Coat the whole boat with exterior varnish. Work fast. You can complete the whole job in two to three weekends.
Is this type of canoe illegal in some places? Would it need a title or certification of some kind to use it? As far as I know, if the boat is under 20 feet then you don't need to register it. Yes No. Not Helpful 4 Helpful 9. Not Helpful 5 Helpful 7. Not Helpful 1 Helpful 4. After the boat is finished, would it need to be registered and tagged like other boats?
That completely depends on local laws and where you are sailing it. I highly recommend looking up your own local laws to see what you need to do. Not Helpful 2 Helpful 6. This "canoe" will be fairly unstable unless kept complete upright, so I don't recommend taking it in any kind of rough water.
Not Helpful 0 Helpful 2. Include your email address to get a message when this question is answered. By using this service, some information may be shared with YouTube. When cutting the 2 pieces of plywood in step 1 you may add a slope to them if you wish. Helpful 45 Not Helpful Inspect the craft for proper operation before allowing Make A Canoe From Plywood 800ml inexperienced persons to use it. Helpful 18 Not Helpful 5. Helpful 22 Not Helpful 8.
Helpful 17 Not Helpful Helpful 1 Not Helpful 0. Related wikiHows How to. How to. Co-authors: Updated: November 5, Categories: Boat Building Plywood. Deutsch: Ein Sperrholz Kanu bauen. Italiano: Costruire una Canoa di Compensato. Thanks to all authors for creating a page that has been read , times. Did this article help you? Cookies make wikiHow better. By continuing to use our site, you agree to our cookie policy. About This Article Co-authors: Related Articles How to.
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