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How to Tile a Wooden Kitchen Table | Home Guides | SF Gate
You can learn how to make a wooden table, whether your aesthetic goals are vintage, modern, rustic or classic. Your homemade table won�t just save you money, it�s guaranteed to impress all house guests. After all, there�s no way they�ve seen anything exactly like it. Think the project�s beyond your scope? Think again. We�ll take you through the step-by-step process of how to make a wooden table. How to Make a Wooden Table.� The most tedious part of building a wooden coffee or side table is the expansion of the round wooden top. When settling on the size, the essential thing is to ensure that all pieces of the wooden coffee table fit together. The top size should fit the room nicely and the legs need to be the correct height to fit the top. 2. Construct the Top of the Table. The table design is very simple and made almost entirely out of plywood. For the top Im using 2 pieces of 3/4� plywood thats glued and screwed together to make one solid � thick top. For the single leg I am building a column using 3/4� plywood thats mitered on the l one sides and glued and nailed together.� This method of making a table top works very well to get a stable and solid piece of � material quickly. We apply a liberal coat of wood glue and then about 50 1 1/4� drywall screws acting as clamps to the two pieces of wood. I let this piece dry overnight before I cut the table top down to its final size (in this case 47� x 47�). This simple wooden table design is beautiful and versatile. It can be easily disassembled and reassembled allowing for easy moving.� Before moving off to college I wanted to build something that would be suitable as a kitchen table and double as my desk for studying. It needed to be sturdy and robust enough to last through college and for the years to come, yet I did not want to build a piece of furniture that would require a moving truck and four guys to move it up a flight of stairs. I decided to make a simple wooden table. Using mortise and tenon joints in combination with inexpensive kerf-mounted corner brackets, I was able to build an attractive and rigid wooden table that can be disassembled and reassembled all by mys.

Last Updated: November 5, References. This article was co-authored by Jeff Huynh. Jeff Huynh is the General Manager of Handyman Rescue Team, a full service solution in home services, renovations, and repair in the Greater Seattle area.

He has over five years of handyman experience. This Making A Wooden Kitchen Table Line article has been viewed , times. Even a beginning woodworker can build a kitchen table if they have a small selection of carpentry tools. These instructions describe a table with surface dimensions about 69" x 46" cm x cm.

You may adjust the plan to a different size by cutting the boards to a different length and by using fewer or narrower boards for the tabletop. Gather all of the necessary tools and materials. Jeff Huynh, handyman, tells us: "To build a table, you'll need a circular saw, a drill, a screwdriver, a Kreg jig and Kreg screws, torque screws, measuring tape, a random orbital sander, a carpenter square, and either a jigsaw, a miter saw, or a table saw.

To build a kitchen table, use a miter saw to cut down 5 pieces of lumber to be 69 inches long, lay the pieces out side by side, and screw them together to form the tabletop. Next, create the table ends by cutting pieces of lumber at an angle and sanding the rough edges down.

Then, put together the table ends and use a drill to screw them together. Finally, cut lumber to form the braces and attach them to the table with screws before applying the finish and sealant of your choice.

To learn more about the specific dimensions needed for your lumber, read on! Did this summary help you? Yes No. Lessons get delivered to your email inbox, and take just a few minutes to read.

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Things You'll Need. Related Articles. Article Summary. Part 1 of Cut the lumber for the tabletop. You may use construction-grade lumber if you don't mind a rustic look, but choose boards with as little warp as possible.

Measure and mark the cut lines first, then cut the lumber with a miter saw. Cut five 2x10" boards to 69 inches cm in length. If the miter saw is too small to make one cut, cut halfway through, then rotate the board and cut again. Refer to the end of this article for a list of all lumber and supplies required. If you'd like to change the measurements of your table, draw a diagram first so you know how much lumber to buy.

Arrange the tabletop on a flat surface. Find the flattest surface you can, such as a garage floor. Lay out the five 69" boards in a row, as flush as possible. A little warp is fine, but try a different order for the boards if there's a major gap. Mark the pocket hole locations. For each border between two boards, draw a series of marks along one side, spacing them 8�10 inches This is where you'll drill pocket holes to hold the tabletop together.

In addition, mark two spots on each end of each board, where you'll be attaching breadboard ends. Adjust the Kreg Jig depth. Insert a drill bit into the depth guide on your Kreg Jig, until the step touches the 1. Tighten the depth collar with an allen wrench. The step is the edge between the wide and narrow portions of the drill bit. Don't use the tip of the drill bit as your guide.

Adjust the jig placement. Manually loosen the screw on the back of the jig so you can move the hole guide. Raise or lower it until set to the 1.

Drill the pocket holes. Stand the edge of a board into the Kreg Jig, centered on one of your marks. Drill through the hole on top of the Kreg Jig to make a pocket hole in the board. Repeat with each mark on each board. Don't forget the marks on the end of each board. Stand the board vertically to drill these. Lay out the boards. Sweep the floor of sawdust and lay out your boards again, in the same order. Confirm that all ends are flush before you continue.

Attach boards with 2. Place the screw into one of the pocket holes you just drilled, and drill it in to fasten the boards together. Keep the boards as level and flush as possible while you do this, and check afterward to make sure they haven't shifted. Repeat for each pocket hole between two boards. Clamp together the boards if possible. It also helps to weigh down the boards with heavy objects. Sand the surface. Run your orbital sander over the surface of the boards, as well as both ends of the tabletop.

Cut the breadboard ends. Measure the width of your tabletop to find out how long the breadboard ends should be. Cut two more lengths of 2x10 to this length. Attach the breadboard ends. Line these up level and flush with the two ends of the table. Drill 2. Your tabletop is now complete. Part 2 of Cut 4x4 lumber to form the table ends. Cut these with a miter saw, adjusting the saw to cut at an angle where described below. Sand off rough edges. As before, run an orbital sander over the cut wood to smooth out the surface.

Lay out the end. On a flat surface, lay out a table end as follows: Put down one of the 43" "end top. Adjust the position of this piece and the legs until they are flush against each other, and centered under the top board. Put together the table ends. Drill in three 6" torque screws at each point where two boards touch twelve screws in all. Put together the second table end the same way you did the first. An impact wrench makes it easier to drill in the torque screws and reduces the chance of stripping the bit.

Cut lumber for the long braces. Position the end pieces upside down on either end of the tabletop. Measure the distance between them it should be about 73" , then cut the following lumber to that dimension: Two 4x4s for braces Two 2x4s for the apron As before, sand the cut surfaces smooth before you continue. Attach one brace to the end pieces. One of the 4x4 braces connects the top of the table ends.

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