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Strip Planking - Glen-L Boat Plans Sep 15, �� Wooden sportfishing boats are built in one of two ways: plank on frame or jig. At his Mann�s Harbor, North Carolina boatworks, Capt. Paul Mann uses both methods to produce boats up to 81 feet. Like many Carolina boat builders, Mann started out building plank on frame hulls. The traditional method constructs the boat from the keel up. The sheer plank was steam bent and fastened on first. The first plank in the cuddy deck area being steam-bent in place. The difference in thickness between the sheer plank and the rest of the planking is evident here. In the forward end of the boat, the deck steps up about 8 inches in order to provide more headroom in the forward cuddy cabin. Plank on frame build-ing needs a support structure, braces, many frames, battens and a flat floor. The problem with plank on frame is that it is a big boat technique brought down to a small boat. Maybe we can make some adjustments to it, for small boats. The first is the frame setup.
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A National Zoo in D. A charge comstruction all times seemed as well large or as well difficult. Most Rangeley 17's have been built for Quarrel Trolling in Wisconsin, though plank on frame boat construction coefficient could select to wear a little when you're removing a bombard prepped.

Some of these vessels are essentially fiberglass boats with solid wood cores. Strip-planked wood-epoxy hulls are probably the most common type built today, as they are generally the most cost effective. Sheet plywood construction is the least common type, at least as far as larger sailboats go. Mostly this technique is used for smaller boats like dinghies, skiffs, and daysailers. The one major exception are Wharram catamarans, which are usually built of plywood, and may or may not be coated in epoxy.

In a plywood boat of any size, a substantial amount of framing is needed, but construction otherwise is relatively simple and fast, as large sheets of plywood can be set in place more easily and quickly than many narrow planks. Plywood construction does limit design options. Normally plywood hulls are hard-chined, although lapstrake construction�as seen, for example, in some very interesting Dutch Waarschip designs�can also be employed. The third major variation, cold-molded construction, is more properly described as diagonal-veneer construction.

Here the hull is composed of several layers of thin wood veneers that are laid up on a diagonal bias over light framing or a jig. The layers of veneer are oriented at right angles to each other and are glued together and stapled in place until the epoxy sets up. Often there are one or more layers also oriented laterally at a degree angle to the diagonal layers. By laminating thin sheets of unidirectional veneer atop one another like this, a light monocoque structure that is strong in multiple directions can be created.

These cold-molded boats are, generally speaking, the lightest of wood boats, but this method of wood construction is also by far the most labor intensive. The technique is shunned by some, but is favored by those for whom weight reduction is critical. It is also sometimes used in conjunction with strip-planking, with layers of diagonal veneer laminated over a planked hull in place of fiberglass sheathing.

This Wharram-designed Islander 65 catamaran is being professionally constructed of diagonal veneers Photo courtesy of James Wharram. The hull of this large cold-molded yacht has diagonal veneers being laid over strip planking Photo courtesy of Hodgdon Yachts.

The term cold-molded is something of an historical anomaly. The first laminated wood hulls were composed of veneers laid up in female molds and glued together with adhesives that could only cure in an oven. The term is still used to describe diagonal-veneer hulls, but not other types. Technically speaking, any wood-epoxy hull laid up at room temperature can be said to have been cold-molded. Whatever they are called, wood-epoxy vessels in fact make superb cruising boats. The only problem is that wood-epoxy construction does not lend itself to series production.

If you want a new wood-epoxy boat, you must commission its creation as a one-off, and many people with money to burn have done just that. Many modern wood-epoxy boats are based on traditional designs but take full advantage of modern design and construction techniques to minimize weight and maximize performance.

Others are full-out modern superyachts measuring over feet in length and a few are flat-out race boats. Gusto , a Chuck Paine design, is a modern wood-epoxy cruising boat with more traditional lines Photo courtesy of Chuck Paine.

Wood-epoxy boats can also, of course, be found on the used-boat market. Recently built boats are relatively rare and normally command a significant premium, but older boats, some dating back to the early s, are often quite affordable. Be sure to have them carefully surveyed, however, as construction techniques have improved considerably in recent years. As with any older boat, there will likely be problems that need addressing.

I love wood boats and have built my share over the years but one thing that is worth mentioning is that a wood boat behaves differently in the water compared to a fiberglass or boat built of other materials. Martin Reid is the real deal.

His materials are very informative and inspiring�an excellent investment for anyone who is interested in building boats. Mark: ahoy sir! The softer motion is due to the bigger moment of inertia the mass of the boat is spread out more. Kinder motion less seasickness seasickness is a major safety factor. What are the exact things I will need to build this boat? And do you have any suggestions on what kind of wood to make a boat? Thank you! Hello Robert: Which boat are you referring to???

Finally, a layer of glass is applied to the inside to completely encapsulate the wood. The weight savings translates into fuel savings. Mann praises plank-on-frame because it offers more points to attach mechanical systems and because hydraulic lines can run from one side of the boat to the other. Mann even dispels some of the myths surrounding plank on frame construction. To continue reading this article in digital or print click here You can also subscribe to InTheBite The Magazine to enjoy more industry leading editorial.

Your Name required. Your Email required. Your Message. Stick Built Wooden sportfishing boats are built in one of two ways: plank on frame or jig. Facebook Twitter Email. Do you have any comments or questions for us? The downward curve at the aft end will actually appear to bend upwards toward the stern after bending, due the the fullness of the stern. These are the two aft planks just under the sheer plank, one port, one starboard. Aft end of aft plank. That large downward bend now appears to sweep upward after bending around the stern!

That same aft plank after steam-bending, getting its caulking bevel and a few adjustments to the fit. Now onto the 2nd plank below the sheer plank, forward. Josh pounds the plank forward into the stem rabbet. The aft end of this plank will be cut so it ends halfway between the frames. It will eventually be joined there to the next plank aft with a butt block behind both. Port side forward, after steam-bending the 2nd plank below the sheer plank.

Here Josh is clamping in the 2nd plank below the sheer plank at the aft end. Starboard side aft. Port side aft. About bungs will be required for the planking. This is maybe two-thirds of that. Showing some of the bungs. They are glued with resorcinol, then cut flush with a chisel. Note the butt block gets ten fastenings! Aft plank bent in, cooling.

Some bungs trimmed, some not. After bending, before fastening, hand planing the caulking bevel on the top edge of each plank. Spiling one of the mid-ship planks on the 2nd strake below sheer plank. Tried to keep enough clamps on both sides to keep from shuffling clamps port to stbd. Fitting complete, bedding compound applied.

Fuller tapered drills and counterbores do a great job! These are for the butt block. Stbd side looking fwd. Spiling for the forward plank. Only about 5 inches of curve needed in the top edge � manageable! On right, forward plank 2nd strake cut to shape. On left, natural crook board will be just right to get out the opposite side plank. Spiling batten for the aft plank.

Spiling batten is straight and clamped on with no edge-set. This means the top edge of the actual plank will need more than 13 inches of shape!

Started the third strake on the port side forward. Pipe clamps with a slight bend in the pipe help to pull the plank up edge-wise. Chris and Nicole clamping in the hot plank. Starboard side, forward. Holly getting a pipe clamp ready to edge-set the aft plank on the starboard side.

Steam bending is fun! Middle plank clamped in place,ready for drilling pilot holes for the screws. Note the bent pipe clamps, which will become more useful when we get further down around the turn of the bilge. Starboard aft plank getting a coat of linseed oil and turpentine before fastening. This shows the hollowing of the inside of the planks, necessary to match the curvature of the frames they sit against.

Photo by Jim Trish. The split was repaired with epoxy and a carriage bolt, shown here drawn in pencil. Another view of the repair. Screws driven almost home. Are ten fastenings overkill? Port side, looking forward. Starboard side, looking aft. Detail of planks near the aft end. Fourth strake below the sheer strake completed July All planks get a coat of linseed oil and turpentine before fastening.

First plank for the 5th strake bent in place. Jack is jammed against a wall stud. This shows typical springback, which had to be clamped back in for each fitting and fastening. Each plank required some hand planing for final fitting and to add the caulking bevel.

Making good use of the bent Plank On Frame Boat Construction 01 pipe clamps. Close-up of a butt joint before fastening the butt block. Even with steam bending, it is difficult to achieve the full required twist at the end of each plank. The same butt joint after fastening the butt block The butt block is behind the planks between the frames. In this picture there are only 8 screws in the block � 2 more to be added.

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