$@# Fiberglass Boat Building And DIY Guide &^@!

Tip: If you would like a higher resolution or larger photo simply click on the picture and it will get bigger. The picture on the left is what not to do if starting from scratch and installing new seacocks.

This photo was taken sailboat construction valve a brand new production sailboat and this installation does not meet ABYC H standards, despite this builder claiming to build to ABYC standards. Unfortunately, for many owners of production boats, the factories cut many corners to save money, proper sailboat construction valve seacocks being one of. This is understandable as the cost savings over sailboat construction valve hundreds of boats is huge to the manufacturer.

As sheer luck has it an installation like this can make it beyond the warranty period and then the manufacturer is done with it. While it may make beyond the warranty period this is nowhere near as strong as a flanged seacock. The problem becomes more complicated when you learn why this is not necessarily the safest way to install a seacock. Many unknowing boaters sadly know sailboat construction valve about NPT or NPS threads and as such often use the two together quite incorrectly.

In short, a proper seacock should have sailboat construction valve female NPS flange that is physically bolted to the hull to which the NPS straight thread thru-hull or mushroom head is then threaded. Another major problem with this installation is sailboat construction valve mismatching of metals below the waterline.

That hose barb is yellow brass and not bronze. Please remember this was a vessel. The picture below, of the broken thru-hull, comes sailboat construction valve this same builder. While both this photo, and the previous photo, were taken on my workbench the plywood is representative of the hull of your boat and the bronze fittings of two very typical installation methods used today. In sailboat construction valve photo one can easily see the major differences in how both of these installations are affixed to the hull.

This photo is representative of a proper seacock installation with a through-bolted flange and the previous photo of a not-so-good sailboat construction valve method with no flange and mismatched threads.

This Sailboat Construction Plans Group photo shows the dogs or ears inside the thru-hull that allow the slot on sailboat construction valve step wrench to grab hold and break it free or tighten it. Backing plates are designed and used to distribute any stress loads over a larger footprint and to reduce and minimize any flexing of the hull at the seacock to minimize the chance of leaks.

Many wood backing plates can still eventually absorb moisture and then swell and contract. Over time this can lead to a possible compromise the fit of the seacocks Sailboat Sail Construction and the water tight integrity. I use ssolid fiberglass for backing plates exclusively so sailboat construction valve instructions show how to do. Fiberglass backing plates are easy to make but yes they are admittedly a little more time consuming.

The benefit is that once you have glassed these into the boat they will last a lifetime and never need replacing. Morris Yachts for instance, one of the highest quality builders in the United States, currently uses solid fiberglass for their seacock installations on both their cored and solid fiberglass hulls. I personally feel wooden backing plates are a compromise but please do remember what you paid for this opinion when making your own decisions.

The whole laminating process may take you 30 minutes. The finishing resin goes on as the last coat so it does not dry tacky. You may also be able to find scrap pieces fiberglass around your boat yard. This would save some time instead of laminating the backing plates. Even two thicknesses of thinner fiberglass epoxied together is less work than actually doing the laminating.

So ask around at sailboat construction valve yard you never know what you might. Starboard is not a suitable product for a backing plate.

Starboard sailboat construction valve a great product for many uses just not one where bonding to another substrate is required or rigidity is required.

Use Starboard or other similar products at your own risk and avoid using it below the waterline. After the fiberglass board has cured you can then proceed to drill your backing plates. This is much easier said than. You will need at least a 5. The friction of the six inch hole saw, on the fiberglass hole, is tremendous and can and will kill a wimpy drill.

Trust me you will kill a Black and Decker or Ryobi before you even make it half way through your first hole. One word sailboat construction valve advice on drilling these backing plates is clamps!

Circular fiberglass backing plates are certainly the best looking but tough on the hole saws and too much for cheap drill motors. Another practical alternative is to cut a hexagon or octagon with a miter saw or table saw. This method will be faster and easier but Sailboat Construction Plans Queensland not as neat and leads to lots of waste material.

In any job the correct tools will save you money in the long run. When dealing with below water applications this is especially true. This photo displays a properly sized hole saw for the task and a smaller one on the arbor. In a proper seacock the flange is through-bolted to the hull passing all the way through hull, the backing plate, the flange and the bronze bolt heads are then countersunk and faired over with filler on the exterior.

A seacock can also be a thru-hull and valve used together without flanges. The caveat here is that they need to meet the minimum strength requirements and do not have a sailboat construction valve. A flanged seacock or a flanged adapter, as pictured above, is far stronger and also much safer sailboat construction valve screwing a ball valve directly onto the thru-hull fitting.

The cross section of a threaded thru-hull fitting very. Because of the threads cut into it, and the full-flow design, it becomes easier for it to break off. All it takes is a tool box or other large or somewhat heavy item to slam into the valve and snap the thru-hull off to sailboat construction valve your boat. Why do I focus so much on proper seacocks? A spare alternator hit a through hull on our old Catalina and cracked it.

While the water did not rush in, and the sailboat construction valve was small, it was a stressful ordeal that required a haul out and repair.

It is the reasons I now only use flanged seacocks or flanged adapters. I chose to use flanged adapters for a few reasons over a seacock with an integral flange and valve. First they allow you to replace just the valve portion, in the future, without ever having to replace the flange or worse ripping out an entire one-piece seacock. Second they accept a standard NPS or straight thread thru-hull into the bottom and a standard NPT or tapered thread ball valve threads onto the top thus eliminating the dangerous mismatching of threads.

I also have some old tapered cone valves in a box in my barn that came sailboat construction valve of a 72 year old wood boat that was re-planked. Those valves, cleaned up and lap fitted, still work perfectly to this day.

Many folks are also happy with Marelon which are also resistant to corrosion. In this photo you can see the flanged sailboat construction valve screwed to the work bench, the thru-hull on top sailboat construction valve the step wrench, the bronze ball valve, a bronze street elbow, teflon tape and some pipe dope.

This should give you a better understanding of why a NPT ball valve, like the one pictured, should not really be threaded directly onto a NPS thru-hull.

For this particular valve I unfortunately had very little clearance and needed to turn 90 degrees. In this photo I am measuring the assembled height ahead of time to ensure it will fit the boat. Please note that the 90 degree elbow is the Wood Ship Construction Valves same bronze allow as the flanged adapter and valve, sailboat construction valve. A nice feature of the bronze Groco ball valves is the handle can be used in two different orientations for either a right or left close or open.

By simply moving the handle stop set screw, to the other hole, you can position the handle to open or close on the opposite. The picture also clearly shows why this installation needed a quick 90 degree turn for the seacock.

Kitty Hair is a thick fiberglass filler mixture consisting of of long strands of chopped fiberglass mixed with a peanut butter consistency resin. The third sailboat construction valve is a 3 inch bolt, that fits the pilot hole from the hole saw, and some Acetone.

Epoxy or any of the other epoxy based resins and your favorite filler. Regular old polyester fiberglass cures quickly though and bonds very well to a properly prepped sailboat construction valve. I usually use my Fein Multi-Master and carbide rasp but for this location it did not fit.

Using a brass wheel, instead of sandpaper, creates sailboat construction valve deep scratches on both surfaces ensuring tenacious adhesion of the backing plate to the hull. Next vacuum up any dust and wipe both surfaces with Acetone. Now your ready to mix the Kitty Hair or epoxy what ever you chose.

Follow the manufacturers directions on the can for both temperature and humidity and then mix it until you have a uniform color. TIP: I sailboat construction valve the use of colored hardeners with polyester or vinylester resins so sailboat construction valve can easily tell when the resin or mixture is well mixed.

This will make it easy to center when you are out side the boat. At this sailboat construction valve climb out of the boat, grab the bolt, and center and seat the backing plate into position. Now climb back into the boat and smooth the Kitty Hair with your finger, sailboat construction valve very careful not to move the backing plate, until you have a nice smooth fillet. Now that your backing plate is installed and cured the first thing to do is to drill your hole for the thru-hull.

This is made easier sailboat construction valve you have already centered it over the old hole and already have a pilot hole in the center of the backing plate left over from the large hole saw you made the backing plate. In most cases the thru-hull will be too long and need to be cut to size. Cutting the thru-hull stem is easy. Now that you have the proper length thru-hull, re-insert it into the flange and tighten it down by hand.

Once you have everything aligned, sailboat construction valve situated where you want it, drill your flange bolts holes, one at a time. After each hole is drilled insert a bronze bolt. Inserting a bolt, after drilling each hole, guarantees proper hole alignment by the time you get to the last one.

Doing this by eye, without bolts, leaves room for the seacock to twist and a potential fit failure. There is no room for error with fiberglass like there is with wooden backing plates and all bolt holes must be perpendicular to the hull as well as perfectly centered and aligned for fit.

The next step is to countersink the machine screw heads into the hulls exterior. Again having the proper tool, sailboat construction valve this case a countersink, is imperative.

Not only must you use a countersink but it needs to be sailboat construction valve right size for the silicon bronze slot head machine screws. Using a regular drill bit for countersinking is a huge no, no.

Thus:

A Figure done utilizing a healthy curves of a joist A chines as well as inwales have been reduce from a matching equipment sailboat construction valve joist to safeguard sailboaat both halves focussed. Squeeze sailboat construction valve or paper nautical flags as well as place them upon a center of each table. I repeat, for it was the palm pressed with desirous amateurs who many speedy me to take a thrust as well as erect my initial boat.

If it was sailhoat thicker it would not be have to have a bend .

Feb 22, �� A seacock can also be a thru-hull and valve used together without flanges. The caveat here is that they need to meet the minimum strength requirements and do not have a thread-mismatch. A flanged seacock or a flanged adapter, as pictured above, is far stronger and also much safer than screwing a ball valve directly onto the thru-hull fitting. In new boat construction, the design of many systems seems to center around the �cookie cutter� philosophy, as builders always seem to want to or work around a factory designed wet elbow system that is supposed to �fit all�. Besides that, many new builders are more concerned about getting the engine below a low deck than worrying about. Jul 27, �� The problem with gate valves is that the way the gate moves across the opening, could get blocked by debris and eventually prevent it from properly closing. The other problem is you can�t really tell if the gate is open or closed just by looking at it. Once I had my boat pulled out of the water, I started removing the old seacock.

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